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Thread: HELP! Just changed Oil and Now Hear Buzzing from Oil Filter Housing

  1. #1
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    HELP! Just changed Oil and Now Hear Buzzing from Oil Filter Housing CONCLUSION FIXED

    Hello. I changed the oil for the first in my newly acquired 2003 540i and now hear a buzzing noise coming from the oil filter housing.

    If you're standing directly above the housing at the drivers side fender and looking straight down the noise seems to be coming from the oil line fitting to the left when I put a screw driver on it and listen. Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance
    Last edited by 89vert507; 05-20-2019 at 03:13 PM.

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    What brand of filter?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Fram from Autozone

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    Did you replace also the O-ring gasket on the oil filter cap ? Are there any signs of oil leaking from that buzzing line, or anywhere under the car ??

  5. #5
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    Yes. Replaced the o-ring gasket on cap and there are no leaks from the oil lines going in the oil filter housing. The buzzing seems to be coming from left side oil line like it's partially restricted or clogged.

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    That left side is the inlet line of oil pumped up by the oil pump from the oil pan (Item # 5 in first diagram). It could be partially clogged. But, assuming your oil pressure is good - no warnings or red lights- , I am going to make a wild guess here: the hissing may be actually coming from the oil pump valve piston ?!? (item #2,3,4,5 in second diagram).

    (Diagrams of the E39 540i from realoem.com)




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    I've never heard buzzing from that area. Concerning. So using a tool you could tell that they noise was coming from the low-pressure hose that comes out toward the front of the car, and bends back to the engine. And you don't hear the noise from the other thick high-pressure hoses. Right?

    That might be a little less concerning. Chedley, I agree any noise from the pump and pressure release valve would be heard better through the high pressure inlet hose to the filter, #5. Less likely to be heard if hose #15, the drain hose.

    I've often wondered what would make oil come out that low-pressure by-pass drain line, since the diagram doesn't show a valve in the filter assembly. Perhaps it's the filter itself and the spring that holds it up. (If the filter is clogged and the pressure too high, does it move the filter and allow flow around it, or to the drain line? I don't know.)

    Please excuse these comments, but if this happened to me I'd wonder if that was the right filter, or if I left something like a paper towel inside the filter area before putting the filter in. Did you compare the old and new filters side-by-side?

    Filters are cheap. If there's any question, I'd make sure the right filter is in there and that there's nothing unusual in the filter cavity. Get a different brand from a different store. Compare it to pics, to other brands, and to the one that's in there now.
    Last edited by R Shaffner; 05-12-2019 at 07:20 AM.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for all the input. One mistake I think I made is attaching the new oil filter to the cap and then screwing in it. That's how I changed the oil in my 2000 528i sport for the past ten years. But after researching it doesn't seem that's the way it should be done. Install the filter in the housing and then the cap.

    Is it possible the cap was put on too tight?

  9. #9
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    You can put the cap on too tight, but that won't effect anything.
    Are you sure the Fram filter was the same length as the filter you took out?

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    I've always put the new filter on the cap first and then inserted it into the housing and screwed it on - never had any issues. I have to feel somewhat suspicious of the filter you used knowing nothing else.

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    I did not match up the old oil filter (K&N) with the new filter (Fram). I should have but didn't. Ordered 3 Genuine Filters last night and should be here Wednesday. Hope that fixes the problem.

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    There've been reports of poorly-made filters marketed by American vendors disintegrating and clogging the lines.
    Best to stick with German-made filters from reputable suppliers. Knecht or Mahle are good brands.

    The cap need not be tight, only fully seated in the canister. The O-ring is the seal.

    Thread a 6x1.0x50 mm bolt into the boss on the side of the canister to counteract the torque of R/R the cap, using your free hand. Otherwise, the shock mounts will tear out.

    I'll bet BMW have a special tool for this!

    Get a 36 mm socket to remove the cap.

    The canister drains out when the filter is backed out.


    Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.

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    I'd toss that FRAM filter first. They are they worst on the market. Put a Mann or an OEfilter in there first and see if the problem persists.

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    So there is some kind of valve in the bottom of the filter canister. Here's a pic looking down into the open canister while standing by the fender. I don't know what function the valve serves (whether it's there to keep the oil from draining back out, or whether it's a by-pass valve). Perhaps someone else knows. But since it's a valve it could be the source of the noise.

    Inside Oil Filter Canister.jpg

  15. #15
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    The check valve at the top keeps the oil from flowing back into the sump when the engine is off.
    The bottom one lets the canister drain when you start to unscrew the cap.

    Valves_Removed.JPG

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    Thx. I should have known that you would know.

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    Update: Today I installed a Genuine BMW Oil Filter and wiped the inside of the canister. Still have the noise. Same buzzing sound. No oil pressure light. Just wondering if my problem is the oil flow to the Oil Filter Canister. Is it possible the plastic sleeve the filter sits in is bad?
    Last edited by 89vert507; 05-17-2019 at 01:09 AM.

  18. #18
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    Did you take the center plastic part out to check it out?
    It should unscrew. While you have it out take the c-clip out and pull the check valve out to inspect it. That's about the only thing in there that can move.

  19. #19
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    Yes. Removed the black center plastic piece from the canister and looks fine.

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    Puzzling. Sorry. I still think replacing the filter made sense, to be sure.

    The only thought I have now is to measure the oil pressure, for two reasons: to make sure it's OK (mostly) and to see if it might vary with the buzzing.

    One question before you do. When you turn the key to the run position, before starting the car, does the oil light come on? And does it go off promptly when you start the engine?

  21. #21
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    Oil Light goes off in a split second. No issues there. I'm leaning towards the black plastic sleeve that screws in to the housing and holds the oil filter in place. Thought it looked fine last night but not 100% sure.
    Last edited by 89vert507; 05-17-2019 at 04:47 PM.

  22. #22
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    Well, first you need to locate the origin of the sound. Could you record and post it ?
    Is it a hissing kind of sound, coming from the inlet oil lines to the filter ?? Or is it a vibration buzzing sound from around the oil filter ??

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    You also may want to check the mounting bracket and isolaters. They are easy to break when old and the buzzing may be the canister against the bracket.

  24. #24
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    Conclusion: The problem was the top plug pictured here. The three guides/tails were missing on the plug and not seated properly. I'm assuming it was dancing around while in operation and causing a buzzing sound.

    The oil canister is quiet now.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  25. #25
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    Thanks for the follow up.
    Wonder what happened to the 3 legs?

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