First e36!

[h82crash]

I acquired my first e36. 12/1992 build. Manual gearbox. It's a project car. Won't be a daily driver, but not a race car, either. A get-around car that's attractive and might see the occasional autocross.

The good; It runs. The body is straight, two small dents. Interior is ok, and it was free.

The bad; Fuel leak under car. Parasitic power drain (money's on the aftermarket stereo). PO rattle canned the trim white without masking, and ebay coilover suspension.

So, a few suggestions for suspension. This car is way too low, the rockers are about 3" off the ground. I can go back to stock pretty cheap, but want it a little lower. What are the strut/spring combos that you guys are happy with?

First e36.jpg

[Eric93se]

Most ebay suspensions are adjustable, so pull a tire and take a good look. I really like the white, too bad it needs a re-spray. A really nice upgrade is to projector lenses (ZKW, Depo etc ~$155) and you can put in 50 or 55W HID's, they usually take H1 bulbs ( I like 5000k) and night driving becomes fun.

For the wiring, its 100% going to be the trunk wiring, left side pull away all the trim, also it runs up the left side of the trunk lid. Another place to inspect is under the hood, at the firewall there is a rectangular black box where the engine meets the firewall. To get into the box you have to remove the cowl drain (not to difficult).

Have fun with it, start changing fluids, clean your abs sensors, maybe upgrade to an all alum radaitor, do the hoses and pump, therostat. A lot of us delete the mechanical fan and put an electric, also put a lower raditator fan temp switch (80/88), its called FDM (fan delete mod).

[BMWManiac]

Check out FCP Euro, and perhaps a H&R sport spring/Bilstein or KONI (lifetime warranty) dampener

[h82crash]

The PO never put the rear adjusters on, so that can go up. When I jack up the front, the wheels don't seem to droop much before they leave the ground. I don't think there is much travel left in the shock. I can try to add preload to the front and raise it, but I may run out of travel. Pretty stiff as well. Actually, I can barely get the suspension to move and I'm 200 lbs. If I get it figured out, is the ebay crap even worth trying to use? I mean, I looked it up and the entire kit is $200.

I was thinking H&R Sports. But I need all of the upper strut mount parts also. I know there is a strut mount. Is there a spring hat too?

[BMWManiac]

Yes, there are top/bottom spring hats. If you go to realoem.com and put in your car specs, you can find all the parts for your car

[h82crash]

Yes, there are top/bottom spring hats. If you go to realoem.com and put in your car specs, you can find all the parts for your car

Thanks for reminding me, forgot about that. Been on hiatus building American muscle for a bit.

[Ctwide3project]

I'm running BC coilovers on my e36 and my e46 and I love them. The e46 is a daily, I've got it just a little stiffer than stock and a mild lowering, the e36 is about 2 inches off the ground and very stiff. Same coilovers just adjusted different. Very versatile I think

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[bluptgm3]

I was thinking H&R Sports. But I need all of the upper strut mount parts also. I know there is a strut mount. Is there a spring hat too?

I recommend Koni / H&R OE Sports - slight drop great road feel, without being harsh

325/323/328
Front
Body Gasket 31331094288
Add M3 Reinforcement Plates 31312489795
Guide support 31336779613
UPR SPRING PLATE 31331135580
Dust Protection 31331110196
Support Washer 31336776760 - Use M3 part Support Washer 31332227342
Upr Spring Plate 31331135580

SPRING PAD UPR 3MM 31331128523
Spring Pad LWR 3133109479
Bump Stop 31331133513
Dust Shield 31331137932
LH WISHBONE 31126758513
RH WISHBONE 31126758514
RUBBER MOUNTING F WISHBONE (FLCAB) 31129059288 - use E36 Rubber Mounting (FLCAB) 31129069035

Rear
Add Z3 Reinforcement Plate 51718413359
Body Gasket 33526772864
Plate 33526776759
Guide Support (RSM) 33521092362 - use E46M3 Convertible RSM 33526779670
Plate 33526762325
Shim (index washer) 33526779398
Bump Stop 33531138109
Dust Protection 33521136283

Spring Pads
SPRING PAD LOWER 33531135420
UPR SPRING PAD 5MM 33531136385
UPR SPRING PAD 7,5MM 33531136386
UPR SPRING PAD 10MM 33531136387
UPR SPRING PAD 15MM 33531094754
UPR SPRING PAD 21,5MM 33531091599

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[h82crash]

Quite a parts list! Thanks.

[h82crash]

Changed the engine oil today. I drained 10 quarts out of it. Yes, it was all oil, no coolant. SMH
Runs much better now. runs so well its hard to believe there is 230k on the clock.

[Eric93se]

wow, 10qts! How was the color?

While there's always so much to do on a new used car, pulling and refreshing the valve cover gasket and the grommets should be on the list for an e36. They can leak down the side, through the spark plug wells and they can be a vacuum leak, on the plus side it gives you the chance to check out the valve train and look for sludge and varnish. Don't cheap out on the VCG, get Felpro or actual BMW, the $20 ones available will leak in 6 months.

[h82crash]

Thanks for the tips. The color wasn't bad, brown but still transparent. I first checked the oil level and the entire plastic end was covered.

[jr02518]

Is it a non vanos motor?

[h82crash]

Is it a non vanos motor?

Yes, non-vanos.
I also got the cheapo coilovers figured out and I was able to lengthen the strut without adding preload. I got the front up 1.25 inches higher than it was and made sure the camber was the same on both sides. A friend has found me a suspension that is more like what's listed by Bluptgm3, but now this will hold me over until I can get the new stuff.

[Eric93se]

On early e36's the crank case vent tube setup is a little different and prone to clogging, you might want to check that both lines coming from the vent are free of sludge and such. When the smaller line clogs oil vapor takes another route and can leak to messing up the idle control valve, they're known to seize up on earlier e36's.

- - - Updated - - -

Since you had to much oil, it may have churned up more vapor than usual, might be a good idea to check it out.

[h82crash]

Awesome, I'll look at it.

Also, there are plugs under the seats with nothing to connect to. Can I assume there was a seat swap which is the cause of the SRS light?

[h82crash]

Some pics. Wiring in the engine compartment. Not pretty but runs well.

20190516_095736.jpg


Disturbing..
20190516_095902.jpg

And what's this wire for?
20190516_095826.jpg

[Eric93se]

Your pics don't show, you attached them wrong.

There is a SRS reset tool and code reader for ~$20 on ebay, its helpful and comes with the ADS round adapter that can be used when in the future you want to use INPA for more diagnostics. There is usually an occupancy sensor in the seat pad that goes bad.

[h82crash]

Funny, I looked at them after I posted. Re-uploaded. Won't the code come back since there is no seat connected? Also, the right door switch doesn't work. What a pain that looks like to change.

[Eric93se]

For door micro switches you have to find a guide, if you do it wrong pieces will be lost inside the pillar. Haven't had to do it myself, but basically you only remove one bolt, then swing it out of the way, attach the new part to the available hole, something like that.

For the missing occupancy pad you can make a simulator out of some diodes.

[h82crash]

Well, my door sensor involves removing the door panel and lock mechanism to reach the switch. Still gotta figure out those capped wires. I'm pretty sure some are for the missing fog lights. Other disconnected wires seem to be the aux fan. No clue for the wire by the right firewall?