I have a 1997 M3 and keep having an issue with my Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0154) error. This one sensor keeps dying on me. I will replace the sensor then within a couple of thousand miles the sensor will fail and have to be replaced. Any ideas why this particular sensor keeps failing? The other 3 are just fine...
Which brand sensor are you using? Is it one you spliced in, or is it one that already comes with a plug?
How does the sensor look like when you pull it out?
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
I recently installed the same NTK sensors at all four locations and have had zero issues with them. It sounds like this is some sort of issue upstream from the actual sensor on your car. The wiring/connector is the most obvious possibility. Not sure how one goes about verifying that, or fixing it. Someone more expert than me could probably tell you how to test the wiring with a multimeter.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
Yes, need to get wiring diagram (s) and pull the ECU and validate continuity from plug to ECU.
I have had similar issue on two E36 M3s, though I’ve only lost one sensor each.
I my DD case I think it was a voltage issue, added distilled water to battery, charged it and no more code after replacing both just weeks before.
Second case I swapped out the sensor.
I am wondering IF you have an injector issue.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Check the sensor at the connector on the signal wires (not the heater) with a MIN/MAX/AVG meter. This is the only reliable way to check for a bad sensor. If the readings are good THEN you have an issue somewhere between the connector and the ECU. Don't use the readings from a code reader or scan tool. If the sensor is bad then the ECU is probably not producing accurate readings to the tool.
See ya later,
tony
'98 M3, '92 Dinan3, '05 R1100S BCR, '07 R1200S, Aprilia T
You're looking for voltage values that normally vary between .1 and .9 volts, give or take a bit, an average of roughly .450v, all this in closed loop.
Sensor should be connected and the signal wires backprobed. Don't use a cheap meter, the amperage is very low and a cheap meter could damage the ECU.
Anything other than this and there's some other problem that needs help.
See ya later,
tony
'98 M3, '92 Dinan3, '05 R1100S BCR, '07 R1200S, Aprilia T
Electrical problems can certainly be intermittent. In fact, most usually are. It's rare that a connection like this is completely severed someplace. More typically a wire is frayed or a connector is only making partial contact. It may work initially, but after some amount of jostling it will get into a state where the connection is lost. If you clear the code it may eventually recover in the same way if contact is re-established on its own, but this cycle will keep repeating until you fix whatever's broken.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
Bookmarks