Z3 Seat Issue, Not the usual.

[ZedsDead87]

Hello, New member, new owner of a 98 M Roadster. I registered to ask this question as after days of searching I’ve had no luck and I’m sure I’ll have more issues in the future.
So, I completed the passenger side seat bushings, and it went over very well. Took a break and proceeded to start the driver side. Went to remove the rear bolts and they are stuck completely. I was able to remove the front two. So I called in reinforcements. My neighbor who has every tool under the sun and actually builds dirt track cars and has twice the muscle as me was able to break free the outboard rear with tears in his eyes and a breaker bar hanging out the car a couple feet.
NOW THE ISSUE, none of us, me, neighbor, family member, and a good friend can get the inner rear bolt out. I don’t think it’s actually seized as the other rear looked brand new. I think it’s torqued so strong I can’t get it out. I’ve tried every type of penetrating oil and numerous combinations of breaker bars and extensions. I even had someone put their foot and weight on the bolt to keep a good bite as used my leg/foot on the bar. Nothing.
The major issue is the seat back is preventing me from using a proper impact drill as the seat back is keeping me from using it head on.
The seat motor still works, and I have it maxed out but I still don’t have enough clearance. Is there anything I am missing? Is there a way to remove the seat from the rails with the one bolt still attached? I can deal with the sliding seat but I feel handcuffed if I ever need to get the seat out in the future.
All my reinforcements said I’m pretty much out of luck, and one said take it to the dealer which got me thinking. What would the dealer or any other mech do in this situation?
So any help would be appreciated as I am at a loss. Someone out there has had to deal with this before. What would you do? Thank you everyone.

[khammack]

Have you tried something like this with the impact drill? For me, impact tools are the best tools for removing stuck nuts.
71ytPnlFAKL._SL1500_.jpg

[s8ilver]

Sounds like it might have been cross threaded, and will probably break when you get it out. But, then you'll have a LOT of access to sheared bolt you can drill out and rectify a number of ways.

How much power behind your impact, assuming you can find an adapter that works?

I just purchased a Nano air impact made by Onyx. I just learned they make a 90 degree version as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumat...ateway&sr=8-14

Their standard Nano is about the most solid piece of tool I've ever held. Tolerances are incredible, and first trial made me happy.

20190502_133624.jpg

Also wonder if you can't get a u-joint adapter on the bolt:
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Drive-...gateway&sr=8-5

[ZedsDead87]

Some of those ideas might work. Before I get crazy. “Crazy being cutting the rail”. So I guess there’s no “easy” way to get the back of the seat out while keeping the rails to the car. I think I’m going to look into one of those set ups. Only issue is I probably only got one or two more try’s before it’s stripped from past attempts. I don’t know how much power the impact drill has, I borrowed from a buddy. It’s just 20v deWalt. I know....

[BimmerBreaker]

Ive always been able to get a U joint on them, then a huge breaker bar or impact

[s8ilver]

Some of those ideas might work. Before I get crazy. “Crazy being cutting the rail”. So I guess there’s no “easy” way to get the back of the seat out while keeping the rails to the car. I think I’m going to look into one of those set ups. Only issue is I probably only got one or two more try’s before it’s stripped from past attempts. I don’t know how much power the impact drill has, I borrowed from a buddy. It’s just 20v deWalt. I know....

Electric or air will let you know for sure. I've got a decent electric impact that has only ever failed to free a couple strut bolts on a friends rusty heap. It was cheap too:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As an aside, that monster even just fits behind Z suspension with the wheel turned.

[SteveG66]

I had a similar experience, mine was stripped though. I think the PO tried to pull the seat, stripped it, and said to heck with it. I ended up carefully cutting the bolt off with a dremel tool, I did cut a thread or two but had no other choice. Good luck and once you get them out, it'll be worth it.

[delvec]

Consider yourself lucky that you can move the seat forward and get access to the rear bolts. In my case, I bought a vehicle that was completely rusted out under the seats and the motor did not work. Getting access to the rear bolts was virtually impossible. My goal was to try to save the seats and re-leather them. Unfortunately, despite my best efforts too disassemble the seat to get access to the bolts... it was a lost cause. Since the seats were in poor condition I ended up cutting rails and buying used seats. I agree with S8ilver, If the bolts happen to break off you can remove the seat and work on drilling/Extracting them out.

[rf900rkw]

Yeah yeah, been there done that. It's "stuck". Just like the outboard one. Air tools won't help. Penetrating oil will make things worse. But I haven't been deaten, yet. 5/8" universal impact socket. Not a socket on a universal, but a socket with the ball style universal built in. 4 foot of 1/2" extension. Adapter to socket if needed. Large breaker bar. Length of pipe. Friendly neighbor. Assemble, steady, pull. CRACK.

[s8ilver]

But I haven't been deaten, yet.

Is that a cross between beaten and defeated? I like it.

[FrenchieTacoZ3]

Mine was stuck in there pretty good, I used a 1/2 ratchet with a 3/8 reducer and a 3/8 16mm socket, it was the perfect height on the rail. Maybe you can use a short or long pipe on the end for leverage.

[CoconutPete]

The seats will separate from the rails if you so desire. 2 bolts toward the rear and the front is held in with sort of a pac-man style piece of metal. If you can locate and remove the 2 bolts in the rear, the seat portion should slide and release. That should give you some room.

[JRowe]

Look at the attached photo to see the seat bottom. As previously mentioned, two bolts near the back of the seat will allow it to slide forward and potentially come off the seat rails. These two bolts appear as looking whitish in the pic due to the oxidation and are on the seat rails.

[Randy Forbes]

The seats will separate from the rails if you so desire. 2 bolts toward the rear and the front is held in with sort of a pac-man style piece of metal. If you can locate and remove the 2 bolts in the rear, the seat portion should slide and release. That should give you some room.

Look at the attached photo to see the seat bottom. As previously mentioned, two bolts near the back of the seat will allow it to slide forward and potentially come off the seat rails. These two bolts appear as looking whitish in the pic due to the oxidation and are on the seat rails.

Just be mindful of the wiring passing between the seat and rails...

[solimans]

impact gun has worked for me. start slow and increase intensity. sounds like it is really on there tho

[rf900rkw]

Is that a cross between beaten and defeated? I like it.

I'm at work. Sometimes (often) I get interrupted mid-thought. Mid-word, even. But mostly it's just contributions from Sir Arthur Itis. You ought to see what autocorrect does to me.

[cleanerPA]

I had to take my passenger seat out to do the fuel pump replacement- I used my Dewalt electric impact gun- it took a little bit, but they came out without any problems. I think the hammering of the impact gun helps break loose bolts that are corroded in.

[ZedsDead87]

Thank you all for some good advice and motivation. I am going to try a U Joint on the impact. Taking a few days away so I can clear my mind and frustration. I’ll be back successful or asking the best way to drill it out. Thanks

[CoconutPete]

Just be mindful of the wiring passing between the seat and rails...

Yes! Don't use this technique to take the seat out of the car. I would use it to move the seat far enough up so that you can hit the bolt with whatever you need to hit it with.

Then I would re-assemble the seat with just 1 of the bolts hand-tight. Unplug everything at the lower harness and remove the whole assembly. Then you can deal with it outside the car.

[Mr Bingley]

Be sure to use a six point socket with a tight fit.

[gfish]

I juwt replaced my seat bushings last night.

Same problem. Same bolt...inside driver's seat, rear bolt.

After working at it for nearly an hour, I decided that a professional mechanic might have a better technique than an amateur do it yourselfer. And I knew that the professional mechanic would have more tools in his arsenal. It took him three minutes and cost me a $10 tip. Everybody wins.

One surprise I experienced. All the youtube videos said that the bushings would need to be sanded to fit. To my surprise, mine fit without the sanding step. They fit perfect...nice and snug.

Speaking of youtube videos, I found the following to be the most useful...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6PsUywdt74

Here's some before & after pics...

20190510_152552.jpg20190510_153536.jpg

[ZedsDead87]

Good to hear I wasn’t alone. I’m thinking about taking it to the mech as well but I’m going to give it just one more try. One more

[amancuso]

Good to hear I wasn’t alone. I’m thinking about taking it to the mech as well but I’m going to give it just one more try. One more

Any update yet? What Randy (rf900rkw) said sounds like it would work best. Whereabouts in NJ are you? Burlington Twp here.

Al.

[ZedsDead87]

Ahhh no luck. Got a 20v impact on there with the u-joint but even the impact said “nope”. I’m at a point where I think I’m going to wait for it to get nasty hot out or cold and take it to my local mech as my only 2 options left are “air” impact or cutting it off. I’m where Bordentown and Hamilton meet.

[s8ilver]

Ahhh no luck. Got a 20v impact on there with the u-joint but even the impact said “nope”. I’m at a point where I think I’m going to wait for it to get nasty hot out or cold and take it to my local mech as my only 2 options left are “air” impact or cutting it off. I’m where Bordentown and Hamilton meet.

I wouldn't expect a cordless to get it. My corded electric just removed my VERY tight 46mm axle nuts. My air impact didn't budge them. My 30" breaker bar with my 215lb on the end didn't budge them. My 18" breaker with a jack under the handle didn't budge them.

It's currently $65 on Amazon Prime:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1