OG Forum member Trayson having top issues. My turn for some help.

[trayson]

Hey all. Anyone that has been in this forum for a while will know that I've got some history here. Hopefully there's some of you around that can help me out.

My M3 cabrio has only been used during the summers. Occasionally in the winters, but the hard top means I don't really use the soft top a ton. But it's been fairly dependable over the years. I do have a snapped cable on the driver's side tonneau cover latch, but that's not really anything that has affected much. My bat wings are in sad shape and on the list of things that I'll replace someday.

Anyway, I used the car a couple times this last week and have done a few top cycles with no problem. Today I went to work, and raised the top once I got there. When I went to leave work, I tried to put the top down and the following happened and the top got stuck:

1. Top motor detaches top latches from windshield
2. Top motor raises front bow
3. Tension bar raises rear window to fully vertical
4. storage cover opens and lid goes to fully open
5. the tension bar is released, lowering the rear window section into the storage compartment
6. the first bow of the top STARTS to raise a tiny bit as the top is ABOUT to be pulled into the storage compartment
7. And the process just STOPS. (see pic below)
8. With a little help, I can get the top to move a little more, and a little more, and after a few cycles, I was able to get it to fully stow the top and finally shut and lock the cover.

However, on a few of the times this has happened today, I got to a point where I couldn't help the top into opening any more. When I was at work, I had to pull the lever to release the motors. ***The top will resync okay, and will CLOSE after the resyncing process. But it's getting stuck when opening.

I read through the documents on the microswitches, and I'm not finding anything obvious that would explain why it's stopping where it does. Maybe a motor is worn out? I'm kinda stumped. Any insight ya'll could give me would be fantastic.

[110reef]

Hi Trayson -

Sorry to hear of your problems.

Is there any kind of clicking noise while this is happening? A common problem is the gears stripping and/or the plate bending on the motor mount. If not, I'd guess the motor itself is shot. I'm not thinking it is a microswitch.

[trayson]

Hi Trayson -

Sorry to hear of your problems.

Is there any kind of clicking noise while this is happening? A common problem is the gears stripping and/or the plate bending on the motor mount. If not, I'd guess the motor itself is shot. I'm not thinking it is a microswitch.

I'd have to listen more closely, but it's like it's dead. Just gets to a certain position and appears that it's not nothing to give. However, upon lifting, it will run through its cycle. Just lowering is the problem so far. (albeit that I've only done a couple full close cycles since this issue started materializing).

[110reef]

Interesting. Maybe the poster on the other thread will post back.

The other thing may be the hall sensor going bad?

[110reef]

Here is a thread with some possible insight:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ht=hall+sensor

Maybe need to do another resynch from either the closed or from the open positions?

[trayson]

Here is a thread with some possible insight:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ht=hall+sensor

Maybe need to do another resynch from either the closed or from the open positions?

Do you by chance know if any of the wiring for the convertible top or its sensors go behind the driver's tail light? I know it's a serious longshot, but I found a pinched wire back there that appeared to have nothing to do with the tail light itself, but I looked quickly, so I'd have to really check to see if it would be something affecting anything.

[66 6]

Your issue is with the top motor, not the tonneau motor. This is the motor that mounts directly under the tonneau area. There are two cams on the motor that set the start and stop cycle of the motor. When the rear bow drops the front of the top also looses some tension, this slightly moves the motor shaft. If you lift the front of the top and put it slightly back does the process continue?

[trayson]

Your issue is with the top motor, not the tonneau motor. This is the motor that mounts directly under the tonneau area. There are two cams on the motor that set the start and stop cycle of the motor. When the rear bow drops the front of the top also looses some tension, this slightly moves the motor shaft. If you lift the front of the top and put it slightly back does the process continue?

Seems that way. If I help the top by pushing it some after it stops, it'll continue a little sometimes... (Other times it'll just sit there dead).

[MParallel]

Hey Tray, long time no see.

Nice to see you still have the car.

[trayson]

Hey Tray, long time no see.

Nice to see you still have the car.

I'll probably have it FOREVER. no reason to ever sell it.

I was able to get the top stowed successfully, but I haven't touched it since. I figure until I get it fixed, I'm limited to either fully UP or fully DOWN. and my choice is obvious: DROP TOP and park it in the garage and drive the Audi if it's gonna rain (like today). I'll get the top thing sorted eventually, but I'm not in a huge hurry.

[66 6]

Seems that way. If I help the top by pushing it some after it stops, it'll continue a little sometimes... (Other times it'll just sit there dead).

Try changing the length of the top operational rod. try 1/2 inch longer and then 1/2 inch shorter. This may allow the process to travel a bit farther or less to encourage the contact on the top motor.

[trayson]

Try changing the length of the top operational rod. try 1/2 inch longer and then 1/2 inch shorter. This may allow the process to travel a bit farther or less to encourage the contact on the top motor.

Cool. I'll give that a shot. I like trying options that are FREE before I throw down and order a new top motor. I've been hesitant to order a motor--most the new ones are quite expensive and I'm having a hard time trusting the used ones.

[66 6]

I have all convertibles motors if needed. $125 for top or tonneau, $90 for locking motor.
Factory prices are ridiculous.

[trayson]

I have all convertibles motors if needed. $125 for top or tonneau, $90 for locking motor.
Factory prices are ridiculous.

Fantastic. Once I get around to doing more troubleshooting, I'll be in touch.

- - - Updated - - -

I have all convertibles motors if needed. $125 for top or tonneau, $90 for locking motor.
Factory prices are ridiculous.

Do you by chance have the kits for the bat wings? Mine are destroyed and I could use that. As well as the boden cable for the driver's side locking mechanism for the tonneau latch. (my top's been needing some love!)

[66 6]

May have good bats. I have good cables.
Text me
Greg
410-967-6170

[M3rocket]

This may be a long shot, but it's a free option to try:
The top motor has two "non-adjustable" sensors, S1 and S2, I believe. Once you expose the motor behind the trunk carpet, you'll see two red-capped phillips screw heads on the back side of the motor. They adjust the travel distance of the top and perhaps yours has gotten out of wack from lack of use. Try turning each screw a quarter-turn, etc. and see how the top responds. Keep track of your adjustments, so you can return them to the original position, if necessary. Good luck.

[trayson]

I have all convertibles motors if needed. $125 for top or tonneau, $90 for locking motor.
Factory prices are ridiculous.

Are the motors used or new? If used, how do I know they aren't gonna get tired and die like mine is?

[MParallel]

You don't.