p1189 p1188 codes

[guadapapa]

hello, I have a 99 bmw 328i with 145k. stick shift. I had a check engine light on for awhile but didn't get it scanned cuz car was running fine. less then a month ago the eml and acs light came on. the car stalled at 35mph but returned to normal right away. I stopped driving the car since, only around the block. the car recently starts up and runs poorly for about a min or two, symptoms are poor idle, no power when accelerating, poor accelerating, but this only happens for a min or two. The eml light and acs light have been off for a week or two now. I scanned the codes and got po101 mass air flow, po120 came up twice throttle position sensor, and I got p1189 and p1188 which is fuel control bank sensor 1 and 2. I tried cleaning the maf sensor, cleaned throttle body, cleaned idle air valve, checked rubber hoses going from air intake to throttle, replaced vanos seals, replaced disa o-ring. i also had some pending codes which were cylinder misfire at 3 and 5. After doing all this i cleared the codes to see what would pop back and after about a week of starting the car only p1189 and p1188 have came back. The car starts up and displays all the symptoms i listed for about a min or so then acts fine but i'm too sketched to drive. Thanks for help

[dworthy]

How old is the fuel pump and filter?

What type of gas do you run in the car?

What stations do you normally visit for your fuel?

[guadapapa]

How old is the fuel pump and filter?

What type of gas do you run in the car?

What stations do you normally visit for your fuel?

The filter was done less then 500 miles ago, possibly a 1000. I put it on last summer or so. I'm guessing fuel pump has never been done in the car, I got it last june. I've been putting premium/supreme although ive been tempted to use regular unleaded since the gas can says it'll take either, I been feeding her the good stuff. I vary on gas stations but I think overall its been ampm. maybe half and half, between ampm and chevron or fred meyer but ampm is probably half the time.

[dworthy]

Why I ask about fuel stations, is some off brands can have water in them, thus bad gas.

Stick with the premium, as that is what the DME is programmed for. Can you go less, sure, but the motor doesn't like much.

I would get the fuel pressure checked, and then I would think about the injector being clogged, or sticking.

[328 Power 04]

Smoke test the intake to make sure you find all vacuum leaks.

[guadapapa]

Why I ask about fuel stations, is some off brands can have water in them, thus bad gas.

Stick with the premium, as that is what the DME is programmed for. Can you go less, sure, but the motor doesn't like much.

I would get the fuel pressure checked, and then I would think about the injector being clogged, or sticking.

that thought had crossed my mind about the gas stations. I've always heard over the years that ampm is a nono for some cars but never really believed it myself. yeah I hate forking out the dough but rather when it comes to the gas.

I'll try the fuel gauge and think about the injectors too.

Just curioius, my serious problems seem to have started once the eml and acs light came on, they only stayed on a week or so and have now been off a week or so, any relation?

thanks

[guadapapa]

Are there ways to try this at home? i saw one guy using a fog machine online

[dworthy]

You can make your own smoke machine, takes something like 30-40 bucks in parts.

The key here is to find out what is making those ECU's unhappy by setting a light.

You can do some testing on things like ABS sensor, ect but the easiest way is to get the codes pulled. If you have an old laptop, INPA with the cable from Amazon is something like 30 bucks and can talk to all the ECU's in the car.

[guadapapa]

You can make your own smoke machine, takes something like 30-40 bucks in parts.

The key here is to find out what is making those ECU's unhappy by setting a light.

You can do some testing on things like ABS sensor, ect but the easiest way is to get the codes pulled. If you have an old laptop, INPA with the cable from Amazon is something like 30 bucks and can talk to all the ECU's in the car.

yeah I've been wondering about the ista setup.is that hard to figure out? can I use any laptop? where do I get the software? is it the same as the INPA that you are mentioning? Thank you

[dworthy]

No, don't mess with ISTA, for that is expensive.

Amazon has INPA with the Cable here. All you need is a laptop with a USB connector.

Over on the Diagnostic Software sub-forum you can find a whole lot of info on INPA and how to use it. I think it is pretty user friendly, can be a little slow, but otherwise easy for a home user.

[guadapapa]

No, don't mess with ISTA, for that is expensive.

Amazon has INPA with the Cable here. All you need is a laptop with a USB connector.

Over on the Diagnostic Software sub-forum you can find a whole lot of info on INPA and how to use it. I think it is pretty user friendly, can be a little slow, but otherwise easy for a home user.

I appreciate the advice

[harrier]

You can also get a Veepeak bluetooth adaptor and OBDFusion and get the codes and the fuel trims.

[guadapapa]

You can also get a Veepeak bluetooth adaptor and OBDFusion and get the codes and the fuel trims.

hello, been super busy so i haven't got to try much. i did try a home made smoke test my rubber boot hose is leaking, the one that hooks to the throttle body. Could that be my root issue? i thought i inspected it well before but obviously not. i juts ordered a replacement. thanks

[dworthy]

Yes, that can cause a vacuum leak. Once you complete the repair, do the test again, as smoke goes out the largest hole first.

[guadapapa]

Yes, that can cause a vacuum leak. Once you complete the repair, do the test again, as smoke goes out the largest hole first.

i was thinking the same thing. that i would need to do it again since it went out basically the closest hose. would be really nice if that was my main problem. i had eml and acs lights on for about a week or two but they have been off for about a month or two now. i haven't driven the car for about that long either except around the block but i've been starting it reguarly and the only symptom it seems to have currently is when i first start it for about 30 secs to a min, maybe less time. it struggles, idles rough, and has poor response when pressing the pedal but after that it levels out fine and acts like nothing has happened, so I don't know if that would be related to that leaking rubber boot.

[harrier]

You really don't want to be starting the car and either not driving it or making a short drive. The engine doesn't get warm enough and you get mayo as well as no start.

If you start the car, take it in a drive long enough to get to operating temp

[guadapapa]

You really don't want to be starting the car and either not driving it or making a short drive. The engine doesn't get warm enough and you get mayo as well as no start.

If you start the car, take it in a drive long enough to get to operating temp

Sorry, I wrote that a lil confusing. I usually do leave it on for awhile, 10 mins, 20 mins, 30 mins. but for the first min or 2 it runs rough, poor idle, poor response when accelerating, even a noise or 2, but after a min or 2 the car is perfectly fine. last night I actually took it on the road and it drove perfect, took it up to about 60 mph no issues. Does this tell me anything about what my issue could be? is it ok to drive it like this in the mean time until I figure it out. I gotta admit i'm still sketched with this car. thanks

[harrier]

You are in well-charted territory, but you can’t guess your way there.
Test fuel with a pressure test at the fuel rail. Needs to reach and hold 50psi with key at 2 and engine off. Do that now before anything else.

Then vacuum leaks. You can smoke test but realistically if any of the following are original, replace them:
intake boots
cvv
vacuum lines
disa o-ring
other intake o-rings
dipstick o-ring

You can use OBDFusion to be more targeted. Get your LTFTs at idle and while driving at highway speed. If they are high (more than -6%) in both situations it is likely a sensor. If only at idle it is likely a leak.

The last part is the sensors. O2 sensors should be replaced at 100k and MAF at 150k. No eBay stuff - VDO/Siemens for the MAF and Bosch for the o2. And no you can’t clean either.

There is your plan. Let us know wjat you find out.

[guadapapa]

You are in well-charted territory, but you can’t guess your way there.
Test fuel with a pressure test at the fuel rail. Needs to reach and hold 50psi with key at 2 and engine off. Do that now before anything else.

Then vacuum leaks. You can smoke test but realistically if any of the following are original, replace them:
intake boots
cvv
vacuum lines
disa o-ring
other intake o-rings
dipstick o-ring

You can use OBDFusion to be more targeted. Get your LTFTs at idle and while driving at highway speed. If they are high (more than -6%) in both situations it is likely a sensor. If only at idle it is likely a leak.

The last part is the sensors. O2 sensors should be replaced at 100k and MAF at 150k. No eBay stuff - VDO/Siemens for the MAF and Bosch for the o2. And no you can’t clean either.

There is your plan. Let us know wjat you find out.

I finally tried the smoke test again and tested fuel pressure. school, work and first born kid has kept me busy.

didn't see any leaks this time. pressure at prime is between 14-15 psi and at idle is 51-52 psi. should I be at that level fuel pressure wise?

thanks

[Liquidity]

Even if there was water in the gas at a station in this country (which is highly unlikely) it is not going to cause your ABS and traction control lights to come on. However, a failing crank position sensor will do just that. Replace it.

[easymoney]

When I got my '99 528Ti years back, I chased the codes P1188/89 and some other codes and indications for 2 effing years! Stalled, towed, limp mode and so and on and on. Replaced 02 sensors, smoked tested it, etc. until finally decided to try and and spent a used $40 from the boneyard. Up to the present time with 414K plus miles she's going strong and extremely a reliable daily. BTW, no leaks and no oil burning.

[Liquidity]

When I got my '99 528Ti years back, I chased the codes P1188/89 and some other codes and indications for 2 effing years! Stalled, towed, limp mode and so and on and on. Replaced 02 sensors, smoked tested it, etc. until finally decided to try and and spent a used $40 from the boneyard. Up to the present time with 414K plus miles she's going strong and extremely a reliable daily. BTW, no leaks and no oil burning.

wat

[easymoney]

Fuel pump it is. Missed that! LOL.

[guadapapa]

Even if there was water in the gas at a station in this country (which is highly unlikely) it is not going to cause your ABS and traction control lights to come on. However, a failing crank position sensor will do just that. Replace it.

haven't tried the crank sensor. i'll check that out. thanks

[guadapapa]

When I got my '99 528Ti years back, I chased the codes P1188/89 and some other codes and indications for 2 effing years! Stalled, towed, limp mode and so and on and on. Replaced 02 sensors, smoked tested it, etc. until finally decided to try and and spent a used $40 from the boneyard. Up to the present time with 414K plus miles she's going strong and extremely a reliable daily. BTW, no leaks and no oil burning.

What did you try from the junkyard?