Front Wheel Bearing Replacement - Anyone Have a Write-up?

[s8ilver]

Who does this???? I blamed PO as his sales description listed "new" inner and outer tie rods. So, either he decided this tie rod would never ever come off again, or he didn't actually replace them.


20190510_112209.jpg

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run over to autozone. rental. worked for me last minute...

They had a tool that worked with BMW spindle?

[Mr Bingley]

Ok, is that a weld tack on that--nice.

[solimans]

Sounds like ur catching a lot of stuff that’s needed. That was my experience as well. Here is what I ordered:

Tool:

https://m.harborfreight.com/front-wh...not%20provided

That helped with the rears especially.

For the front the Amazon tool fit. The link I saved at the time no longer works but here’s a pic.



I got the race to come off by removing the splash guard and hitting on it from the back with a punch. You’ll need new seals back of the bearings. And new splash guards...sounds like you have those already.

Autozone had the hammer puller that I needed to get the rear hubs off but I saw a few tools there that looked like they might work...worth a try if you’re in a pinch...

Pic of the hammer puller below as well as the harbor freight tool.








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nevan]

20190510_112209.jpg

Oh, no...

[s8ilver]

More fun yesterday.

No photo, but used this to remove the driver side inner race (very solid tool, amazing quality for the price):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This was what worked on passenger side (almost broke the puller but it finally budged):
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It was definitely time:
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Test fit the special tool, and think it'll do just fine when rest of parts arrive:
20190512_175135.jpg

Gave up for the day and messed with the wife's Honda. Threw in a new PS pump, air filter and cabin filter. Why don't we have cabin filters???

Eeeeew:
20190512_182745.jpg

Then took the wife to the Nuggets game to watch our boys blow game 7:
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[solimans]

Lookin good sir. That tool looks like it will work. Should go on like butter

[s8ilver]

As another side effect, the vibration/buzzing was getting so bad on the passenger side that I lost a fog light and a headlight within a day of each other. Might as well order up some bulbs.

[s8ilver]

Sounds like ur catching a lot of stuff that’s needed. That was my experience as well. Here is what I ordered:

Tool:

https://m.harborfreight.com/front-wh...not%20provided

That helped with the rears especially.

Questions about the rears (after my front end debacle I'd like to be fully prepared for rears). I assume you have to drive the axles out of the hub first (after disconnecting from diff)...is this just as easy as a punch (or socket extension) and a hammer?

Then pull off hub with Autozone tool? Then I assume it's remove the snap ring, use the HF tool to pull out/in new bearing, re-install the snap ring. Then, drive on hub same way as you pulled in bearing? Or, do you install the hub first and then pull in a new bearing from the back side? You photos make it appear you already had the new bearing in before you pulled the new hub on, but BMW procedure seems opposite of that.

How do you bring the axles back in? I rebuilt Audi axles years ago, but they just popped right in/out after the axle nut was off...by hand.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...arings/AKxQsYh
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...arings/3zXz0pw

Or, do I just leave the rears alone until they give me evidence they're going south?

[Potes]

leave the rears alone, it aint gonna be as easy some HB Freight tools, you will most likely need to cut or press them out of the hubs, and it’s the worst. And no slide hammer, nor god, will help you. Also GL getting them back in. And this is coming from the guy who encouraged you to get on with tackling the fronts because they “slide on with one hand”(or atleast did for me..) Seriously the rear ones took me three days and i’ll never get that time back .. if your fronts were seized that badly... leave it alone ..

[s8ilver]

leave the rears alone, it aint gonna be as easy some HB Freight tools, you will most likely need to cut or press them out of the hubs, and it’s the worst. And no slide hammer, nor god, will help you. Also GL getting them back in. And this is coming from the guy who encouraged you to get on with tackling the fronts because they “slide on with one hand”(or atleast did for me..) Seriously the rear ones took me three days and i’ll never get that time back .. if your fronts were seized that badly... leave it alone ..

I've got a 20 ton press...enough? The fronts would have been a cake walk had I had the proper tools. Now I do, just waiting on more parts.

Plus there's the challenge of the first time. I helped a buddy swap window sliders a few weeks back. I had all four windows out, gleaned, regreased with new sliders and car back together before I figured out how to take one side apart on my own car. Of course the rears would be a first, so maybe give me a month on those.

But I hear you. I would love to just drive the car again. I really wanted to add some spacers to my new-to-me Style 42s, which of course puts more stress on the hub/bearing.

My favorite use ever of the 20 ton...'83 Volvo rear axle and press on its side to pop out rear bushings:

20150509_153003.jpg

[nevan]

As Potes mentioned, it would be worth spending extra time researching what tools could help getting the rear bearing job done. Its not a hard job. Based on your posts, I bet you can finish the job in a half day the most. But having right tools and parts handy definitely make things go smoothly.

[solimans]

Questions about the rears (after my front end debacle I'd like to be fully prepared for rears). I assume you have to drive the axles out of the hub first (after disconnecting from diff)...is this just as easy as a punch (or socket extension) and a hammer?

Then pull off hub with Autozone tool? Then I assume it's remove the snap ring, use the HF tool to pull out/in new bearing, re-install the snap ring. Then, drive on hub same way as you pulled in bearing? Or, do you install the hub first and then pull in a new bearing from the back side? You photos make it appear you already had the new bearing in before you pulled the new hub on, but BMW procedure seems opposite of that.

How do you bring the axles back in? I rebuilt Audi axles years ago, but they just popped right in/out after the axle nut was off...by hand.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...arings/AKxQsYh
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...arings/3zXz0pw

Or, do I just leave the rears alone until they give me evidence they're going south?

yes sir, I pulled the half shafts out. first got the collar nut free with an impact. my half shafts came out with a few hits...

you will need a puller or the sledge tool (both on amazon and auto zone and other places) to get the hub (flange) out. once it came out I used the bearing tool (amazon) same tool, to pull the bearing out of the trailing arm. its not hard with the right tools. It is without.

i installed the new in reverse of removal. pressed the bearing back in to the trailing arm and the hub back into the bearing (both with the same tool).

I'll post some links. I found a few good videos on the process on youtube at the time...

[solimans]

for the rear this will get the bearing out and back in. As well as push the hub back on to the bearing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is my experience at the time: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...with-some-pics

Good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_kenFE248U

most helpful in my case were the youtube videos...many more to watch there...

[Randy Forbes]

Questions about the rears (after my front end debacle I'd like to be fully prepared for rears). I assume you have to drive the axles out of the hub first (after disconnecting from diff)...is this just as easy as a punch (or socket extension) and a hammer?

Then pull off hub with Autozone tool? Then I assume it's remove the snap ring, use the HF tool to pull out/in new bearing, re-install the snap ring. Then, drive on hub same way as you pulled in bearing? Or, do you install the hub first and then pull in a new bearing from the back side? You photos make it appear you already had the new bearing in before you pulled the new hub on, but BMW procedure seems opposite of that.

How do you bring the axles back in? I rebuilt Audi axles years ago, but they just popped right in/out after the axle nut was off...by hand.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...arings/AKxQsYh
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...arings/3zXz0pw

Or, do I just leave the rears alone until they give me evidence they're going south?

Here's a link to an album where you can see the sequence pretty much from start to finish (the axles themselves are seen removed near the front of the album, this link in nearer the middle/end, where I'm doing the rear hub bearings): http://spcarsplus.com/piwigo/index.p.../397/start-105

A few random images...

Pulling out the hubs__take note of the slide hammer's heft (axle previously removed)



You can count on the inner races staying on the hubs



Alternative tool for removing inner race (the one I showed above works A LOT better, this one can slip off race's lip)



Tool used to extract bearing



Pulling the bearing in (I leave the bearings in the freezer prior to installation).



Pulling the hubs back in. IT IS CRUCIAL to stop pulling as soon as the hub is seated on the outermost race. Continuing to pull will preload the innermost & outermost races too close to each other.



Pull the axles in similarly to the way you put the front hubs on. I always clean up the inner/outer splines with a SS toothbrush, and lightly oil them. One (1) in a million (1,000,000) will slide in without requiring the tool (not sure I'd want them that loose on my own car...)





The nut on the M versions are tightened to 300Nm; I use a 4:1 torque multiplier, so I only have to pull 75Nm. Peen over the nut to secure (Z3 versions use a locking plate driven between nut and hub)

[s8ilver]

Thanks Randy. Yours and solimans photos have been most helpful. I entirely understand the process now; now it's just a matter of collecting the correct tools and of course, proper execution. Last I checked it was 7 hrs labor/side, and with Denver rates, I'll study before I'll drop that coin. Now I just have to decide if I touch them now or just wait until they tell me they need replaced. 156k miles last I looked at the Z. M is just about to hit 59k (I think!...ODO bulb just went out), so not worried there.

More questions:

-Do you have the axle tool # by chance, so I can search for a generic alternative? I wonder if OTC makes one similar to the front shaft tool I purchased.

-When you're pulling the new bearing in, is there a lip (not really a lip but a mark or line) in the trailing arm that tells you when you've made it? Or is it possible to pull too far and then not have enough clearance to install the new snap ring? Edit: nevermind, the video posted by solimans cleared that up.

-"IT IS CRUCIAL to stop pulling as soon as the hub is seated on the outermost race." Basically when the hub contacts the trailing arm housing, you're done. It can't phsyically touch the bearing race, as that is slightly inboard, correct?

[s8ilver]

for the rear this will get the bearing out and back in. As well as push the hub back on to the bearing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is my experience at the time: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...with-some-pics

Good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_kenFE248U

most helpful in my case were the youtube videos...many more to watch there...

Great minds think alike. That is the exact tool I added to my Amazon cart before you posted!

And that video is exactly what I was looking for. I have no doubts I can do this job after watching that. And, looks like a found another use for the new bearing puller/splitter I bought.

[Potes]

Just saying have that press nearby.. we did try many a puller tool for that outer race ..

[nevan]

...

-Do you have the axle tool # by chance, so I can search for a generic alternative? I wonder if OTC makes one similar to the front shaft tool I purchased.

...

Someone suggested this tool as an alternate when I was doing mine, and it was very effective and easy to use...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22168925202...item339db588ba

[s8ilver]

Someone suggested this tool as an alternate, and it was very handy and easy to use...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22168925202...item339db588ba

Excellent, thanks! No matter what I choose to do, my garage is looking more professional by the week. Neighbors have walked by in amazement..."You do your own work on THOSE cars?"

Bummer this week has been waiting on the rest of the front end parts. I parked the Z about 2.5 feet over from normal so I had plenty of space to wrench. Getting the M out to go to work has been interesting. I've basically had to park mirror to mirror with about 2 inches in between so I can actually get in the spare car. With the Honda in the driveway I had to pull off a 12 point turn to park the other day. #citylife

[nevan]

Excellent, thanks! No matter what I choose to do, my garage is looking more professional by the week. Neighbors have walked by in amazement..."You do your own work on THOSE cars?"

Bummer this week has been waiting on the rest of the front end parts. I parked the Z about 2.5 feet over from normal so I had plenty of space to wrench. Getting the M out to go to work has been interesting. I've basically had to park mirror to mirror with about 2 inches in between so I can actually get in the spare car. With the Honda in the driveway I had to pull off a 12 point turn to park the other day. #citylife

Although I don't have a spare part car, I can relate for sure!!

I used to get similar comments from neighbors until a new neighbor moved in with TWO part cars (one on the driveway, another in the garage) for his race-car build.

Anyhow, the way I see it is I get to keep the tools while still save $$$ at the time.

[s8ilver]

Although I don't have a spare part car, I can relate for sure!!

I used to get similar comments from neighbors until a new neighbor moved in with TWO part cars (one on the driveway, another in the garage) for his race-car build.

Anyhow, the way I see it is I get to keep the tools while still save $$$ at the time.

I don't have a parts car. The M is in perfect operating condition! Well, except that the ODO/trip light just burned out (in the right light I can just make out the numbers). From what I've read there are two bulbs, but may be in series. Oh, and some jacka$$ cut me off this morning, so I re-dented the NEW steering wheel emblem when I honked at him. I wear a stainless steel pinky ring (Google Order of the Engineer) and that did it. I had planned to install a train horn in the Z (I feel invisible in both cars) to really let them know how I feel.

[Randy Forbes]

Thanks Randy. Yours and solimans photos have been most helpful. I entirely understand the process now; now it's just a matter of collecting the correct tools and of course, proper execution. Last I checked it was 7 hrs labor/side, and with Denver rates, I'll study before I'll drop that coin. Now I just have to decide if I touch them now or just wait until they tell me they need replaced. 156k miles last I looked at the Z. M is just about to hit 59k (I think!...ODO bulb just went out), so not worried there.

More questions:

-Do you have the axle tool # by chance, so I can search for a generic alternative? I wonder if OTC makes one similar to the front shaft tool I purchased.

-When you're pulling the new bearing in, is there a lip (not really a lip but a mark or line) in the trailing arm that tells you when you've made it? Or is it possible to pull too far and then not have enough clearance to install the new snap ring? Edit: nevermind, the video posted by solimans cleared that up.

-"IT IS CRUCIAL to stop pulling as soon as the hub is seated on the outermost race." Basically when the hub contacts the trailing arm housing, you're done. It can't phsyically touch the bearing race, as that is slightly inboard, correct?

33 2 110/118 are the numbers stamped on the end FOR THE ///M AXLE SIZE, Z3s will be smaller...

Someone suggested this tool as an alternate when I was doing mine, and it was very effective and easy to use...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22168925202...item339db588ba

... looks like this set would be the way to go today!

ALWAYS, Always, always: grease the shaft/threads of any pulling tool like these!! This cannot be stressed enough. a case in point; my subframe bushing tool has pulled out HUNDREDS of bushings. Many years ago in an enthusiast's driveway having a Fix-it-Day, the same tool was destroyed on the third (3rd = 1-1/2 cars) attempt. No grease. They eventually got back on track, but nowhere near as many cars as expected got new (urethane) bushes that day.

ALL OF THE LOAD for hundreds/thousands of pounds of pressure is carried on those threads, and a little bit of lubrication goes a long way to get the job done, saving the tool for another day.

[s8ilver]

33 2 110/118 are the numbers stamped on the end FOR THE ///M AXLE SIZE, Z3s will be smaller...

... looks like this set would be the way to go today!

ALWAYS, Always, always: grease the shaft/threads of any pulling tool like these!! This cannot be stressed enough. a case in point; my subframe bushing tool has pulled out HUNDREDS of bushings. Many years ago in an enthusiast's driveway having a Fix-it-Day, the same tool was destroyed on the third (3rd = 1-1/2 cars) attempt. No grease. They eventually got back on track, but nowhere near as many cars as expected got new (urethane) bushes that day.

ALL OF THE LOAD for hundreds/thousands of pounds of pressure is carried on those threads, and a little bit of lubrication goes a long way to get the job done, saving the tool for another day.

NOTED! I usually remember to add grease. When I did RSFB, my helper was spraying threads as I turned. That homemade tool got quite warm in the process, and I've lent it out a couple times (hopefully they lubed too!).

Conversely to pressing the axle out first, could you use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Yescom-Hydrau...SH68NKYD1QYR7P

to pull the hub off? But, what you back it with? Hmm. With axle nut and locking ring out of the way, could you just press on the axle end, or too much stress on joints? Could probably rig something up using a piece of the bearing pulling kit to seat on the trailing arm to give a counter point. Just thinking out loud; I have a bad back and that slide hammer might kill me.

I like hydraulics vs. brute hammering force whenever possible.

Also, this looks nearly identical to the eBay tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Pulli...gateway&sr=8-5

[Randy Forbes]

NOTED! I usually remember to add grease. When I did RSFB, my helper was spraying threads as I turned. That homemade tool got quite warm in the process, and I've lent it out a couple times (hopefully they lubed too!).

Conversely to pressing the axle out first, could you use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Yescom-Hydrau...SH68NKYD1QYR7P
to pull the hub off?

LOL! I bought one of those too! I haven't used it for anything yet, but I'm hoping to be able to adapt it to getting the rear wheels__real magnesium__off my vintage go kart. I've repaired SO MANY wheels that have had the rim-lips hammered off!

But, what you back it with? Hmm. With axle nut and locking ring out of the way, could you just press on the axle end, or too much stress on joints? Could probably rig something up using a piece of the bearing pulling kit to seat on the trailing arm to give a counter point. Just thinking out loud; I have a bad back and that slide hammer might kill me.

I like hydraulics vs. brute hammering force whenever possible.

Also, this looks nearly identical to the eBay tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Pulli...gateway&sr=8-5

Yes, looks like the same thing. If you're dealing with both, Z3s & Ms, you're going to need different sizes (I have three__3__differnt mandrels like the one I posted above; two (2) I KNOW I've used; smallest one *might* be for 1.9s...?

[s8ilver]

LOL! I bought one of those too! I haven't used it for anything yet, but I'm hoping to be able to adapt it to getting the rear wheels__real magnesium__off my vintage go kart. I've repaired SO MANY wheels that have had the rim-lips hammered off!

Yes, looks like the same thing. If you're dealing with both, Z3s & Ms, you're going to need different sizes (I have three__3__differnt mandrels like the one I posted above; two (2) I KNOW I've used; smallest one *might* be for 1.9s...?

Ooh, mag wheels. My mom's old Dodge Stealth had optional mag wheels. You know we'd all love a photo (or 10) of this go cart.

I plan to never do the M! In fact, my dream car is sitting on BAT at the moment and it's the only thing I'd replace the M with:
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-shelby-cobra-32/