Front Wheel Bearing Replacement - Anyone Have a Write-up?

[s8ilver]

Today I learned the Honda 2.4 engine is basically an S54

HAHA yes, basically. Except no shimming involved...you simply adjust the rocker arm clearance and retorque the nuts. I just gotta remember the 1342 firing order.

She keeps saying she's going to buy a new car if she doesn't scratch hers for an entire year. That was about 6 years ago. We live down the block from a Maaco, but she'll scratch it before it gets home.

Her ultimate plan was to donate it to Colorado Public Radio, which I researched and learned that all they do is crush the car and donate the scrap proceeds. So if that day ever comes, that K24 is going in our B18A1 Integra Lemons car (direct bolt up apparently)...will about double the power. She's a dog on the straights, but we invested so much in brakes and suspension that we catch everyone in the corners.

We've run out of stuff to do to the car. We got our fire suppression system in yesterday. Now we're just adding lightness.

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[s8ilver]

I found using the factory tool to be quite useful

Randy, what are the chances of a successful install without using that tool? I hate spending more on a tool than a part that I'll only use once, but I'd hate an out of plumb hub more.

[Potes]

Randy, what are the chances of a successful install without using that tool? I hate spending more on a tool than a part that I'll only use once, but I'd hate an out of plumb hub more.

You can literally push the new hub on with one hand. put it in the freezer first

[s8ilver]

You can literally push the new hub on with one hand. put it in the freezer first

Standard freezer or meat freezer?

JK. I do this same thing when I do alternator bearings (oven or freezer depending on application). I also do it when I change bezel inserts on watches...bezel ring in boiling water and insert in the freezer.

Thanks for the tip.

[me77]

I changed my passenger side front wheel bearing some time ago too, I was able to pull the old one off and put the new one on by hand at room temperature too. I was surprised about that.

Remember to order a new axle nut and torque it to the correct figure, and you might need a new cap for the axle nut if you can't get the old one off nicely.

[pine1000]

Here's a link to the BMW wheel bearing instructions: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nuckle/2YxGjLz

[BimmerBreaker]

HAHA yes, basically. Except no shimming involved...you simply adjust the rocker arm clearance and retorque the nuts. I just gotta remember the 1342 firing order.

Oh, so it's basically an M30 then (those didn't use shims, but needed adjustments as you describe)

Have to admit I was a bit caught off guard by the special tool. All the ones I've done came off easily. I was starting to wonder if I had done something wrong...

[s8ilver]

Oh, so it's basically an M30 then (those didn't use shims, but needed adjustments as you describe)

Have to admit I was a bit caught off guard by the special tool. All the ones I've done came off easily. I was starting to wonder if I had done something wrong...

I've read some horror stories of the inner race getting stuck on the shaft, people whipping out pullers and dremels to cut it off and then the new one getting installed out of plumb. If it comes off easy I'm not too concerned. I've got an assortment of pullers if it doesn't, but last thing I want to due is start cutting. I just figured line it up and place a socket over the inner race and seat it that way to be able to start the nut.

[BimmerBreaker]

Do note that I live in Arizona, a place free of rust. I am not sure how corrosion may affect the ability to pop it off cleanly

[s8ilver]

Do note that I live in Arizona, a place free of rust. I am not sure how corrosion may affect the ability to pop it off cleanly

We too have no rust in CO (most don't realize CO is a semi arid desert). I think I'll go just fine. Nest just showed my brakes delivered, so now just have to find the spare time ha.

I might as well consider rears at this point as well. I just about have my Style 42s done and was planning some wheel spacers with those.

[s8ilver]

Here's a link to the BMW wheel bearing instructions: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nuckle/2YxGjLz

Always replace grease cap after removal and install new cap with sealing compound

How many of you have done that part? My guess is none. I've never used any sort of compound on dust caps.

This was the bit I was worried about:

If necessary, pull inner bearing race off axle stub.
Attach special tool 33 4 406 / 401 to inner bearing race and compress until special tool can still just be turned.
Withdraw inner bearing race with special tool 33 4 402.

Withdraw inner bearing race without special tool 33 4 406:
If inside bearing inner ring remains on stub axle after bearing unit has been pulled off, unscrew guard plate.
If necessary, bend dust guard plate so that guard plate can be removed.

Bend back dust guard plate (1) and apply pulling claws of special tool 00 7 500 behind bearing inner race (2).
Pull off bearing inner race with special tool 00 7 500 and 31 2 106.

[Potes]

The inner race WILL be stuck on the spindle. use a jaw puller very simple. The inner races fell out of my nEW bearings so its just something they do. You should never need to cut

[pine1000]

You can get a bearing puller from Harbor Freight (or a reputable source) that is very much like the BMW tool here:

Bend back dust guard plate (1) and apply pulling claws of special tool 00 7 500 behind bearing inner race (2). Pull off bearing inner race with special tool 00 7 500 and 31 2 106.

Note: Correct assembly of extractor claws on special tool 00 7 500.

[me77]

Always replace grease cap after removal and install new cap with sealing compound

How many of you have done that part?...

I put a thin layer of RTV around the lip of the new dust cap, just to be safe and because I had some laying around.

[nevan]

You can literally push the new hub on with one hand. put it in the freezer first

Freezing them isn't probably necessary for the front ones unlike rear ones (which was my case)...

[Randy Forbes]

You can get a bearing puller from Harbor Freight (or a reputable source) that is very much like the BMW tool here:

Bend back dust guard plate (1) and apply pulling claws of special tool 00 7 500 behind bearing inner race (2). Pull off bearing inner race with special tool 00 7 500 and 31 2 106.

Note: Correct assembly of extractor claws on special tool 00 7 500.

Yes, but would it be as cool as this one-purpose-in-life tool, used only to pull stuck inner races off spindles & hubs? No, it would not



The real beauty of this tool is that it can extract the inner race off the spindle when there is zero clearance between it and its backstop..

Today, I doubt if it's even still available, let alone at a price that anyone could afford it (BMW tool prices would've made an XLNT financial investment in the early 2000s; just saying...). But that was then, and it makes for short work when it's needed.

[BimmerBreaker]

BMW tool prices would've made an XLNT financial investment in the early 2000s; just saying...

An interesting thought certainly

But I have to think - for every 1 tool that people pay big bucks for now, you'd also end up with like 20 tools that schwaben or another company has made chinese duplicates of that you can't sell for big money anymore.

If you could somehow know what tools would not be duplicated, and which ones would be in high demand, then you could retire early. But I think more likely than not you'd end up with a warehouse full of $800 timing tools for engines that china has made $100 versions of.

[cleanerPA]

The F20 engine in the S2000 is very similar in some ways to the S54- both need regular valve adjustments, both rev pretty high, both make a very high specific output.

I'm glad the OP used the proper OE bearings and not used bearings.

[pine1000]

If you could somehow know what tools would not be duplicated, and which ones would be in high demand, then you could retire early. But I think more likely than not you'd end up with a warehouse full of $800 timing tools for engines that china has made $100 versions of.

BMW seems to be very litigious about their special tools. I designed a 3D printable clutch slave cylinder tool and uploaded it to thingiverse.com (which is a free library for 3D printing). It wasn't an exact copy of the tool by any means, but I did use the BMW tool # in the description so people could find it.

BMW legal contacted thingiverse and had it taken down within a month.

[BimmerBreaker]

That's not surprising. I think the replica tool kits get away with it by not being exact copies. They accomplish the same goal, but without having the exact same design as the OE parts. There are tons of aftermarket tool sets out there for the BMW speciality tools. I don't think I own any BMW tools in fact, but I have a lot of specialty tools for BMW engines

[s8ilver]

Any tricks to getting this new one in? Mine certainly isn't sliding on... Been hammering on inner race with no luck. Puller sorta worked until the backing started bending. That special tool would be nice right about now.

[solimans]

Any tricks to getting this new one in? Mine certainly isn't sliding on... Been hammering on inner race with no luck. Puller sorta worked until the backing started bendind. That special tool would be nice right about now.

run over to autozone. rental. worked for me last minute...

[solimans]

Can also get the tool super cheap on amazon if you have more time...


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[Potes]

Is the spindle/ axle thoroughly cleaned with steel wool or something of the sort? And are they FAG bearings? Sorry to hear this news..

[s8ilver]

Can also get the tool super cheap on amazon if you have more time...


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New phone (no idea how to get photos oriented correctly...they look good on phone and computer when I select them)...

I did order the tool on Amazon (arrives tomorrow...assume it's the "cheap" $95 one with one 1 star review that says it doesn't fit), but found a few more issues:

Brake dust shields are split/cracked in several places. Ordered new ones.

DS inner race really on there. I got lucky on PS as it pulled off with a cheap puller. DS not so much...my puller won't do anything and it just pops off. I bought a bearing splitter/puller that arrives tomorrow as well, but no idea how to use it without bending or cutting off the inner dust caps. So, I ordered those up as well. Edit: just reread the BMW procedure and that mentions bending the dust caps...I assume that means you basically destroy them and must replace. Arghh.

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I fear I may have screwed up the bearing I tried to install. It seems that even if you are slightly out of plumb, it's over and you get to buy another bearing. I'm stuck here:

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Oh, and found both tie rod end boots split open, so guess I'll order those up too. Are they the same between Z3 and M Roadster (Z3 rack, M Roadster knuckle)??

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And to top it off, PO welded the tie rod nut to the stud, so I get to deal with that too.

So, 2 bearings may have turned into 3 bearings, tie rod assemblies, inner dust caps and brake dust shields, special tool and better bearing puller.

Also, I had a heck of a time removing the big 46mm nuts. My 30" breaker bar wouldn't budge it. I tried a stiffer 18" and the jack, but it started lifting the car. My air impact did nothing. What finally got it off was my electric impact with about 30 solid seconds of hammering.

It was definitely time though. Old one basically fell apart upon removal:

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- - - Updated - - -

Is the spindle/ axle thoroughly cleaned with steel wool or something of the sort? And are they FAG bearings? Sorry to hear this news..

I cleaned it, but probably should have better. Talked with a buddy that lent me the 46mm socket. He says he hit the spindle with a Scotchbrite and just a touch of grease.

And yes, FAG bearings.