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Thread: E46 325i - BC button, exhaust rattle on start, radio antenna termination

  1. #1
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    E46 325i - BC button, exhaust rattle on start, radio antenna termination

    First post!

    Just got a minter of a 325i but there are a couple of niggles I want to sort out (already searched and get conflicting answers):

    1. OBC is stuck on outside temp - BC button not working. I've already got a replacement stalk but, assuming it's not this, can somebody tell me which fuse/s I should check? I gather there are three for the dash.
    If it's neither the stalk nor the fuses, what else could it be?

    2. On the first start of the day the exhaust rattles loudly for 30 sec to 1 min and then stops. 100% exhaust - I got underneath this morning and felt it, roughly level with the rear passenger door. I gather there's some sort of valve in the system that shuts one pipe when it's cold - if it is this, is there a workaround? If it's normal I'll live with it, but if there's a easy bodge I'm all over it!

    3. The previous owner had an aftermarket stereo and cut the BMW connector off. I want to put the old radio - Business CD - back in but need to restore the old connector. I gather it's called an ISO, but the cable has metallic shielding under the plastic - does this need to be a ground for the termination, or is the central conductor all I need to solder?

    Many thanks in advance - I'm delighted with my car aside from these tiny flies in the ointment!

    M.
    Last edited by MarkApp; 04-29-2019 at 02:23 PM.

  2. #2
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    The muffler rattle is normal, though usually not for quite that long. It should only take a few seconds for the vacuum to build up and put tension on the actuating rod and quiet the noise. I'd try lubing the linkage first.
    Quote Originally Posted by B4SH View Post
    If anyone knows, it's this guy who knows literally nothing about everything.
    Quote Originally Posted by fcvapor05 View Post
    Do you even OT? The mean 401k around here is probably about $6, what with all the shiny cars and $1,000 watches and donations to get other members' Volvos running.


  3. #3
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    BC stalk is a common failure.
    Last edited by dhurley34; 04-29-2019 at 04:07 PM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Critter7r View Post
    The muffler rattle is normal, though usually not for quite that long. It should only take a few seconds for the vacuum to build up and put tension on the actuating rod and quiet the noise. I'd try lubing the linkage first.
    Is it easy to get to? I gather it's between the muffler and the bodywork.
    Any reason not to do the "golf tee" mod?

  5. #5
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    I believe you’re writing about the RF connector on the end of the chassis harness. The cable is coaxial, meaning the signal is carried by the center conductor and the signal is shielded by the outer metallic wrap. The outer metallic wrap does not need to be grounded.

    If one or more cluster fuses was blown the cluster wouldn’t properly. The inability to change the OBC display is most likely caused by the switch at the end of the stalk. If the new stalk doesn’t fix the problem the fault is in the cluster. Go to E46Fanatics and send a pm the scottjohn. He’s an electrinix engineer who’s the expert on cluster stuff. I’m betting the stalk is the problem.

  6. #6
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    Radio fixed - now working 100% .

    With regard to the indicator stalk, opinions conflict on whether or not it's necessary to remove the steering wheel; some are telling me it can be done just by removing the steering column cowling.
    Can anybody confirm either way? I'd prefer not to take the battery off, if possible.
    Last edited by MarkApp; 05-03-2019 at 03:17 PM.

  7. #7
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    Lots of techs remove and install airbags without disconnecting the battery, just DON'T turn on the key while it's disconnected, or you'll get a light.
    Quote Originally Posted by B4SH View Post
    If anyone knows, it's this guy who knows literally nothing about everything.
    Quote Originally Posted by fcvapor05 View Post
    Do you even OT? The mean 401k around here is probably about $6, what with all the shiny cars and $1,000 watches and donations to get other members' Volvos running.


  8. #8
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    And yes, you're supposed to disconnect the battery, but experience tells me it's hardly necessary.
    Quote Originally Posted by B4SH View Post
    If anyone knows, it's this guy who knows literally nothing about everything.
    Quote Originally Posted by fcvapor05 View Post
    Do you even OT? The mean 401k around here is probably about $6, what with all the shiny cars and $1,000 watches and donations to get other members' Volvos running.


  9. #9
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    Disconnect the ground/earth/negative cable from the battery just to be sure. A new airbag costs a ton of money.

  10. #10
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    The part number for my E46 airbag retails for $183 ...
    Quote Originally Posted by B4SH View Post
    If anyone knows, it's this guy who knows literally nothing about everything.
    Quote Originally Posted by fcvapor05 View Post
    Do you even OT? The mean 401k around here is probably about $6, what with all the shiny cars and $1,000 watches and donations to get other members' Volvos running.


  11. #11
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    Turns out it is necessary to take the wheel off, at least on mine - no way to dig the stalk out from the metal clamshell it's seated in. Luckily, though, I was able to unplug the busted one and try my replacement with the busted one in situ... and the replacement works perfectly

    Also luckily, my airbag is the one with the two spring clips rather than the one with the Torx screws. Gave up earlier today and performed a heart-in-mouth reassembly of my broken stalk, but I'm going to have another go on Monday.

    With regard to the butterfly linkage on the muffler, is it possible to get at (viz lube) it from underneath the car?

  12. #12
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    To anybody considering tackling a stalk swap, just do it - took me half an hour just now from battery disconnect to battery reconnect.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkApp View Post
    With regard to the butterfly linkage on the muffler, is it possible to get at (viz lube) it from underneath the car?
    The butterfly is in the right hand of the two exhaust tips and the linkage as such is above that. IIRC, it should be open on idle, close to about 3k rpm, then reopen. Sounds like your rattle may be a lot further forward than that. But you can probably lube it with a well aimed shot of WD40. The number 15 in the link below is pointing to the pivot and there is a simple rod attaching that to the diaphragm.
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=18_0435

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser View Post
    The butterfly is in the right hand of the two exhaust tips and the linkage as such is above that. IIRC, it should be open on idle, close to about 3k rpm, then reopen. Sounds like your rattle may be a lot further forward than that. But you can probably lube it with a well aimed shot of WD40. The number 15 in the link below is pointing to the pivot and there is a simple rod attaching that to the diaphragm.
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=18_0435

    Not that it matters much, but it operates opposite of what you said. It's closed at idle. Vacuum keeps it closed; at high vacuum (low throttle input) it remains closed.
    Quote Originally Posted by B4SH View Post
    If anyone knows, it's this guy who knows literally nothing about everything.
    Quote Originally Posted by fcvapor05 View Post
    Do you even OT? The mean 401k around here is probably about $6, what with all the shiny cars and $1,000 watches and donations to get other members' Volvos running.


  15. #15
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    My exhaust noise is coming from WAY further forward than that valve; it's practically level with the passenger seat!
    Only ever does it when sat still at idle - could it just be a dodgy mount?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkApp View Post
    My exhaust noise is coming from WAY further forward than that valve; it's practically level with the passenger seat!
    Only ever does it when sat still at idle - could it just be a dodgy mount?
    There's heat shielding too, you'll probably just have to crawl under there and detectivize it.
    Quote Originally Posted by B4SH View Post
    If anyone knows, it's this guy who knows literally nothing about everything.
    Quote Originally Posted by fcvapor05 View Post
    Do you even OT? The mean 401k around here is probably about $6, what with all the shiny cars and $1,000 watches and donations to get other members' Volvos running.


  17. #17
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    Check the area where the exhaust manifold hooks up to the exhaust system.

  18. #18
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    Just discovered that the rattle/groan happens BEFORE I start up (that is, when I turn the ignition to 2). That suggests something electrical - any ideas?

    Seems to be on the left hand side/passenger, roughly level with the driver.

  19. #19
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    The only thing that happens at that point is the fuel pump priming. It's on the right side in the tank.
    Quote Originally Posted by B4SH View Post
    If anyone knows, it's this guy who knows literally nothing about everything.
    Quote Originally Posted by fcvapor05 View Post
    Do you even OT? The mean 401k around here is probably about $6, what with all the shiny cars and $1,000 watches and donations to get other members' Volvos running.


  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Critter7r View Post
    The only thing that happens at that point is the fuel pump priming. It's on the right side in the tank.
    Have they ever been known to make a din?

  21. #21
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    It's usually described as a buzzing noise. Definitely more noticeable outside the vehicle than when sitting in it. I mean, it's audible, but from inside the car it shouldn't be anything that would cause concern. Inside the car it sounds like a phone set on "vibrate" ringing on a coffee table.
    Quote Originally Posted by B4SH View Post
    If anyone knows, it's this guy who knows literally nothing about everything.
    Quote Originally Posted by fcvapor05 View Post
    Do you even OT? The mean 401k around here is probably about $6, what with all the shiny cars and $1,000 watches and donations to get other members' Volvos running.


  22. #22
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    Could it be something to do with the climate control flaps? I notice that if I have recirc on when I turn the car off it reverts to "fresh" next time I start up...

  23. #23
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    Those are in the dash. Neither of the 2 location descriptions you've given, "... roughly level with the rear passenger door." and "Seems to be on the left hand side/passenger, roughly level with the driver." sounds like it's in the area of the dash.
    Quote Originally Posted by B4SH View Post
    If anyone knows, it's this guy who knows literally nothing about everything.
    Quote Originally Posted by fcvapor05 View Post
    Do you even OT? The mean 401k around here is probably about $6, what with all the shiny cars and $1,000 watches and donations to get other members' Volvos running.


  24. #24
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    Unplug the fuel pump or pull the relay and start the car. There will be enough fuel if it is primed to turn over and you can see whether the noise is gone

  25. #25
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    He won't even have to try to start the car, just sit in it and turn the key to position 2.
    Quote Originally Posted by B4SH View Post
    If anyone knows, it's this guy who knows literally nothing about everything.
    Quote Originally Posted by fcvapor05 View Post
    Do you even OT? The mean 401k around here is probably about $6, what with all the shiny cars and $1,000 watches and donations to get other members' Volvos running.


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