Cranks wont start - solved

[santos005]

Try to confirm location of ABS control unit relay.
1)does my car have one
2)should it be under driver's side dash

Any help would be appreciated.

[Timm]

The ABS controller is in the Ebox - it is the right of three modules here (ignore the arrows, they are showing the DME):



However, it won't inhibit the engine from starting - your problem is elsewhere. Why do you suspect the ABS?

Here is the circuit diagrams - this will help you find all the components:

https://www.meeknet.co.uk/E32/e32_93_etm.pdf

I will have a real stab in the dark though - if you have done some work on the front of the engine it is very easy to swap over the main throttle position sensor connector and the ABS (actually ASC+T) throttle position sensor connector - and this will illuminate the ASC warning light on the dash and can stop the engine starting.

If the engine just failed to start one day have a read of this:

https://www.meeknet.co.uk/E32/Flooded_M60_Start.htm

[santos005]

I was thinking possible overload. I've checked all fuses and strip fuses near battery

[santos005]

Timm,
I'm getting a TRANS Program and my ANTI lock is lit up. I've charge battery, checked trans fluid, fuses, link fuses, fuel relay. Also, abs sensors. i had just jump battery so I remember reading about abs overload relay.

[shogun]

That could also be caused by a too weak battery, then these warnings can come up and the modules play crazy, even if the car still started. Or make a load test for the battery in a shop.

[santos005]

Thanks, will have battery load tested

[santos005]

Had battery slow charged and tested. Battery good with 950 ccr. Installed and wait for five minute for modules to sync but Trans Program and antiLock still showing. OBC test #9 showed 12.48 Gave it a crank but no start.

Appreciate any other advice.

[unity]

I wish I knew your vehicle better. My 750 is so very different. But to me it sounds like a fuse or harness not connected. But I can think of nothing that would cause this trifecta. Neither ABS or trans fault themselves would cause a non-start. So it has to be something further up the chain that these systems are all connected though. Could be something as simple as a faulty ground or some damaged primary positive lead. I don't have electrical diagrams for the 740, but I would be tracing each of those systems back to a common connector, fuse, etc and see if there is a match.

[whiskychaser]

Maybe advise what happened leading up to this no start? Did you just go to it one morning and the ABS light (if that is what is on) and trans program suddenly appear? Or as Timm suggested, maybe you moved it a few feet the day before and it is now flooded. The M50 and M54 both love to do that too.

[santos005]

Don't use car much so it sat out for a couple of days. Battery was low so jumped started. Next day, low battery, again I didn't use it much. Took battery (kinda new) to Oreilly's for charge. They did the usual 1hr charged installed battery cranked but didn't start. That's when I notice Trans program and AntiLock light.

[santos005]

Unity,
As I mentioned a jump start car so that's why i thought I might have burnt some relay. I remember google AntiLock light and reading something about a overload relay (34521179131) but was unable to find. But if I guess as Timm, Shogun and you are in agreement that this should not cause a non start. I will recheck all wiring. Thanks for feedback. Please let me know if you think of something else.

[chazsandiego]

Just because the battery is newish doesn't exclude it from being faulty. I would suggest exchanging the battery for a new one if possible. Also make sure that nothing is coming into contact with your battery terminals when the rear seat has been replaced. I had a small debris underneath my battery that was causing it to sit just high enough to occasionally contact the metal rail on the seat underside. This had also caused my fusible link (a?) to crack causing some other weird electrical issues.

Also I had a crank, no start issue a couple years back that came out of nowhere..... https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...el-issue-fixed

Spoiler Alert! It was my crankshaft position sensor.
Good luck!

[santos005]

Rechecking fusible links---without power, checking resistance. What is the best way to check links with power? What amt of voltage result?

[shogun]

on my website there is info on fusible links, see here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=fusible+links
pics http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/377728/
Voltage comes from the battery directly, so it should be same as the battery has after the fusible links.
In engine bay there is the large B+ post, check there and in the e-box right side engine bay where the DME is there is the B+ power point also which supplies power to the relays and modules in the e-box, see under component location views
http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/e32_93.pdf

also on the diagnosis port you can check http://diagnosticportlocation.blogsp...-location.html
Pin 14 = 30 Voltage; Hot At All Times

Did you check the fuel pump already?

[unity]

Remove them, make sure they are not cracked. They can crack and conduct, but the crack prevents high amperage flow. Makes for very confusing diagnosis.

[santos005]

Shogun,
All test point were 12.8v. On Pin 14 = 30, that shouldn't be 30v., right?

[shogun]

not 30 V, Pin 14, terminal 30 (B+), minimum voltage should be 11.75V, wire color RT = red
diagnostit.port.gif

[santos005]

Ok, I got 12.8v. Quick question, I do own a P.A. Soft 1.4 scanner but never got pass the IKE connect error. Should this scanner work on my e32 OBD1 (7/93) with 20 pin. I've tried stomp test before but not working right now.

[santos005]

Re:Fuel pump
I checked fuse and relay. Do I need to remove pump from tank or is there an easier way.

[santos005]

Timm,
Trying to check fuel pump. There are two relay, white and brown/orange, just like as photo in ebox above. White is 5pin and orange is 4pin. I'm assuming white is main and orange is fuel pump relay. Check volt between 30 and 87 on both white shows 12.8v and orange is not showing much. Should jump white or orange to test fuel pump.

[Timm]

I think you have got to the point that you are grasping at straws - best to get back to a good starting point:

How did you get to this point? Did it just fail to start one day? Had you done any work on the engine? Is this your daily driver? How long have you owned the car?

Start by checking if you have a spark - remove a coil-over-plug unit, reconnect the loom to it and put a spare sparkplug in it and rest it on a metal part of the engine - get someone to turn the ignition key to crank the engine:

Do you see a spark at the sparkplug?

If you see a spark at the sparkplug remove one of the sparkplugs:

Does it have fuel on the plug?

If it does, follow this:

https://www.meeknet.co.uk/E32/Flooded_M60_Start.htm

Let us know the answers to all the questions and then we will have a much better idea of what your problem is...

[santos005]

Timm,

As I mention low battery ,jumped it, not working on engine, daily drive--pub, golf, groceries (no longer doing the long drives), have owned car for 24 yrs. You are right, I do feel like I'm grasping at straws. Following most of forum's suggestions. Last one from Shogun was to check fuel pump. Will check for spark and try your suggestion. I am very appreciative of all of the forum's help.

Again Thanks, Santos

[shogun]

Relays for fuel pump and DME for the M60 we discussed here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...uel-pump-relay

ETM http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/e32_93.pdf
For the fuel pump: to check if it is running at all, I usually do on my 750 as flwg: ignition off, open the fuse box, use a short jumper cable from B+ to the fuse and hold it onto the inserted fuel pump fuse for a brief moment, then I can hear the fuel pump run for just a moment.
Or just remove the fuel hose in engine bay and put the end of the fuel hose into a PET bottle and crank the car for a few seconds, if fuel comes out, then the fuel pump works. But then you only know it works but not the volume and the pressure. Example from M70 http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/fu...Regulators.htm

Your M60 needs min. 3.5 bar, the pressure regulator is designed for 3 bar http://de.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog...ection_system/ that mean, usually the actual fuel pump pressure is more than 3.5 bar and the FPR regulates the pressure then.

[Timm]

If you had a low battery and you had an attempt at starting the car but it failed to catch initially - then it is probably flooded. The M60 is great at doing this, it injects fuel just as the engine cranks - and if it fails to start it will still inject lots of fuel the next time! Eventually the manifold is swimming in fuel and you have no chance!

[santos005]

Pulled spark plugs on both sides. They were dry. However, I DON"T have spark. All coils were at .08. CPS at 545.