1989 325i, died, and now half alive

[cudamank]

Driving to work my car died pulling up to a stop. Turned over but would only catch at wide open throttle, then just barley run. Towed her home. Stomp test wouldnt engage, so after reading online for a week, tested tps, and only had continuity across the WOT pins. Took it off, and apart,, (surprised at whats inside, besides all the oil) Points for WOT stuck closed.

Fast forward today, picked up a new to me TPS and tested, in both positions. Continuity at throttle closed and then on other at WOT. Drilled some holes in the bottom of TPS, (thank Bimmerforum, for the suggestion). Also took this opportunity to install new cap and rotor. Car will start and run giving it part throttle, but sounded off.

Pulled plugs and noticed that 2 4 and 6 looked unrun compared to 1 3 5. (yeah, I didnt know about Bank 1 and bank 2 yet. Thank you TheJlevie!))

Restarted with my son and pulled plug wires one at a time and found no change when 2 4 6 are pulled, car dies, or tries to on 1 3 5.

Came here and researched, then did a visual check on the C191 Connector. Unplugged, and plugged back in. Nothing looks corroded.

Found the schematic for C191, can I check power and ground with this unplugged, and engine cranking?

Bonus. The stomp test works and I have code 1264, which I believe is oxygen sensor heater. Found Fuse 9 was bad. (read on another thread).

Appreciate some help on where, what and how to test why I only have bank 1 injectors firing.

Thank you

[superj]

check your crank sensor, on the front of the engine.

[cudamank]

CPS measured 536 then checked C191 and found broken and corroded wire for center pin, bank 2 injectors ground. IMG_20190427_190655531.jpgIMG_20190427_190655531.jpg

[superj]

Yup. Common problem spot

[cudamank]

So after splicing the connections, I have lost the temp gauge. Had to have my son help me as I am Red/green colorblind, and will have to see if we either, have a bad splice, or spliced the wrong wire across. If I am reading the diagram from the wedophones.com site, the temp sender for the temp gauge should be on the Brown/ Violet Pair. Can anyone confirm?

Check engine light now provides 1223.

Car started up last okay, but this morning, it would start to catch then die. Once started the idle was about 500 in park. After a few minutes, it was up to around 900 in park and 700 in gear. Was late, will confirm tonight.

[superj]

When i did mine, i had an odd wire on one side of the plug. Like one side had 7 and the other had 6 there was a spare wire

[cudamank]

Looks like 1 of the wires is an un used ground, from what I read, on the engine side of the connector. Last night was a bust, but this morning I ohmed out the wiring and identified, and verified the wire coming from temp sender. That connection made to bn/vi and my temp gauge is working again. win.

Still getting the 1223, coolant temp sensor code. I need to verify those connections from the sensor to where they connected at C191.
Showing a brown/red coming from DME pin 45 and a brown/orange coming from ground G103.

Anyone know what the voltage coming from DME should be?

Thank you

[cudamank]

Ohm the wires from CTS connector to Old C191 location. 2 new splices and we are good to go. No check engine, no 1223 , see how she starts now tomorrow.

[superj]

awesome, hopefully smooth as butter now