Initially, I plugged the “Y” off the OBD2 dipstick with a short piece of rubber tube and bolt instead of leaving it open. Oil then started leaking from the last three or so bolts on the drivers side (high side of pan), no doubt due to pressure in the crankcase. Duh.
So next I put a small breather in its place and I’m still getting oil past the bolts and it’s puking out the breather as well:
I checked the oil level and it seems to be right where it needs to be. I’m running a -10AN vent to catch can off the valve cover, open to atm :
Am I missing something here? I could fab up a second catch can for the CC, but it would seem that it would fill up rather quickly.
Maybe run a much longer hose up top and either wye into the existing catch can or straight into the breather?
Why am I getting so much damn oil where it doesn’t belong??!
What are most of you doing with that dipstick “Y” ?????
Oh, oil pan gasket is OEM NEW.
Car is 1996 328i
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Last edited by SilburE36; 04-25-2019 at 08:11 PM.
Mine is plugged and I don't have leakage issues. Most people plug them I think. How much power are you making?
None at the moment. Car spends most of its time in the shop
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I ran a huge hose off of my valvecover, because I didn't want any crankcase pressurization. To me a -10 hose seems small. Just my .02.
I could try disconnecting the hose and run to atm up top and see if that helps.
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Maybe connecting the catch can to a vacuum source would help. My valvecover gasket started leaking a day after I replaced it. I connected mine from atmosphere to a vacuum piping hoping this will help with oil leaks
-Phil
I'll try to help even though I as well have problems slightly with oil. To put this simply and effective, big boost = big blow by. It has to happen so boom we got positive presure in our oil pan / valve cover. SHIT. So, bing bango, slamo I got mad money for a tap-in style AN bung tying the stock AN bung to a 3 port catch can. 2 ports to crankcase (should work) and one to a vaccum. This is where people get screwed up, more boost = more blowby, and wham all oil seals leak. Enough vac. Would help but won't cure your ends all means all project. T.Y btw vol, etc. Supporting mekbers. Big boost is still here usually not on 90 and 93 and prayrers.
I've come to the fact that It's possible to fix all the problems boosting our engines but not worth the money. I let mine leak some oil, it hits 15psi and shes done, ready for another turn, don't run flat out unlees told.
Last edited by Mklock; 04-26-2019 at 01:25 AM.
I just have a 3/4” tube coming off my valvecover going down to the crossmember an dont have any major issues. Only leak i had was my turbo drain line and vanos line which I recently fixed. So we will see if they stay fixed..
Last edited by manneurex; 04-26-2019 at 12:05 PM.
Update: unplugged the valve cover line and let it vent to atm:
Also ran a piece of 1/2” hose up from the dipstick Y to the breather up top:
No leaks : )
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I just use a vacuum cap on the dipstick drain and have a large hose coming off the valve cover....every once in a while, I'll have a small drop of oil from the hose
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
SC my '91 850i ( only 7 psi) and had a severe oil leak at the pan gasket... yes, blowby must create positive pressure pushing oil through the gaskets… had read here about another 850 with same issue after SC install.
I installed a vacuum pump and catch tank.... no more leaks. I dialed it in at 1.5 psi crankcase vacuum , can go higher but one must be careful as it can effect oil pressure. ( so no HP gains as used with high vacuum )
A bit of work but sure a solution...
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