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Thread: Overheating issues, Help needed and appreciated.

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
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    1,718
    My Cars
    '86 635CSi, '08 128i
    Yep, I drained it all, flushed it out with fresh water, hooked it all up empty, then pressurized it. The HF setup has a pretty crappy pump, it seemed to take forever!
    Save the manuals!
    '08 128i 6MT, '86 635CSi 5MT (B32, Motronic 1.3, WBO2, G265, 18# FW, 3.46 torsen)
    Past projects:
    '96 318iS, sold 4/23 '90 535iM, RIP 1/23 '90 535iA RIP 6/22 '91 318i, sold 7/19 '97 M3 sedan, sold 11/18 '85 735i, RIP 2/18 '92 325iC, sold 7/16 '91 318iS, sold 6/16 '84 745i, sold 10/14 '82 633CSi, traded 9/12 '90 325i, RIP '87 325 sold '89 525i, traded '87 325iS, RIP

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Las Vegas, NV USA
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    46
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    1986 635csi
    the pressure tester I borrowed from AutoZone had been used so little that the lube for it had dried up I had to use my own stuff to even get it to work at all and even then the seal kept messing up, it "worked" but was a pain in the ass for sure. I really hope I don't need to get that thing again. I'm going to flush it out plenty good, refill the coolant (and got some royal purple water wetter stuff) new cap and checking out the thermostat, going to do an oil change (going with high quality synth again, but did just read that changing out from dino to synth MIGHT cause issues because the synth can clean out the engine and the seals then cause some leaking because of it). If this doesn't work though I'll start over and switch out the pump but I think its working fine since the car keeps cool when it isn't over 80 out. I also just saw a decent way to do the bleeding, using one of those huge spill proof funnels (that I already have) that way its not only full but the funnel is then the high spot in the system, just have to maybe pull back out some fluid after to level it out.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Las Vegas, NV USA
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    1986 635csi
    I did the flush, changed the thermostat back to the OEM temp one (after checking it for functionality), have blead it out a couple times (and realized that the heater core that is not in the system actually has a HUGE capacity, then having to remove some of the fluid out so there wasn't too much antifreeze in it and put in more water), replaced the reservoir cap with a lower OEM psi one, and of course messing up the oil change that I did by being an idiot not realizing that I accidentally put regular oil in instead of synth this time around. Didn't pressure check because I didn't have the thing for it at the time but it doesn't seem to have any leaks so far.

    HOWEVER, the temps seem to be sitting higher than they were before though slightly stable at them. The couple times I've had it out so far its gotten to around 90c and fluctuated around that. It used to sit around 84c when it wasn't hot out, though now its always hot out here... I was looking up possibly replacing the pump, since its the only part I haven't changed out in the last few years (though I did replace it a few months after I got the car so I haven't suspected it and thought it would always overheat if that part was not functioning properly, maybe it is only partially bad?). But while looking that up I remembered something to check, the temp of the aux fan switches. I forgot that the OEM aux fan switches don't START to turn on until 91c and high at 99c, sooooooo, maybe it isn't actually over heating as much as I keep thinking it is all the time. I will have to see some more. I also need to see if i can do one of those hydrocarbon tests for the system to make sure it isn't leaking some oil into it, I don't think it is but am not 100%.

    I'll still possibly change out the water pump if I can find what brand seems to be the best, people argue about poly VS metal internals, and I need to figure out what ones have magnetic bearings. I will also likely take off the condenser radiator (since I removed the A/C anyhow) and then find a much larger aux fan to install from a large SUV or something from a salvage yard.

    Maybe slightly off topic I am also a computer person, and am thinking of using my heater core & fan from the BMW to make a water cooling setup for my graphics cards for my PC, could be cool.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Scottsdale, Arizona
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    81 euro 635, 4.4 X5
    Why did you drain the antifreeze when it helps the car run cooler???
    81 Euro undergoing total nut and bolt restoration
    pictures at: flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos

  5. #30
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    Jul 2013
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    Las Vegas, NV USA
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    1986 635csi
    That's not exactly how anti freeze works, it doesn't just make it cooler, technically water has a far better ability to remove heat from a system. Anti freeze is, as to its name mostly for stopping water from freezing when it is cold (because it is an alcohol and has a much lower freezing point), and partially to allow your coolant mixture to be able to have a mildly higher boiling point which can partially help allow your system to remove heat when it is far hotter (though you don't really want your car getting that hot to begin with if possible). It works in conjunction with the system being pressurized to keep the water in your system from vaporizing, which would then cavitate your water pump and not allow fluid to move in your system, as well as water vapor not being able to remove heat from a system as well as liquid water.

    In places where it gets very hot you are far better off having a lower ratio of water to anti freeze (70%-75% water to anti freeze), and in my own case I put in concentrated anti freeze and didn't keep in mind the drastic difference of fluid needed because I blocked off my heater core so I was far too close to a 50-50 than I wanted. So I removed some of the coolant and added back in more water to cut the mixture back.

    So no, anti freeze doesn't simply make your care "cooler".

  6. #31
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    81 euro 635, 4.4 X5
    I am not an engineer or techie so I will stand very corrected but you should get on the net and correct a bunch of sites there as well
    81 Euro undergoing total nut and bolt restoration
    pictures at: flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos

  7. #32
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    Jul 2013
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    1986 635csi
    There is lots of misinformation about almost every topic out there, some of it specifically to get people to buy products expecting that most people won't do the research (which is a horrible business practice), and while I would love for people to be better educated about every topic, I unfortunately don't have the time to fixt all of it myself. And the reason I know much of that is because I went online and did some research to fix my own issues (and partially because of schooling to understand some of the basic chemistry behind it).

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Metairie, LA, USA
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    1985 BMW 745i, & 635CSI
    OP brings up a good point about antifreeze. Like most, I thought it was there to prevent freezing and overheating, and the more you had the better it was though it needed at least some water. Then I had the opportunity to spend a day at the Royal Purple facility/factory outside Houston. Their engineers explained it basically the same way as OP. In fact, since I had never given It much thought, I was shocked to find out their race cars ran on 100% distilled water with a small amount of additive for the internals.

    It was a memorable day and I learned other crazy but interesting things like synthetic oil in its pure state is actually clear and only 2 companies make it. It’s longevity is way longer than you think if you just change the filters. I’m talking 30k miles in cars that were running nox and the oil was testing just fine. Their is huge difference in quality filters. Purple coloring was originally added to their oil to distinguish it from a green (I think) one for the oil fields....

    So Bert is right, there is tons of information out that is partially correct but just doesn’t quite give the full explanation, leading us to some misguided beliefs like I had about antifreeze.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

  9. #34
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    Jul 2013
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    Las Vegas, NV USA
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    1986 635csi
    Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the part where the anti freeze has additives that also help prevent corrosion because of the ionic differences between metals and the water flowing past. But there are other additives that can do that besides anti freeze, and while race engines are a little different in that they tend to strip them down so often, they are VERY robustly made (for pressures, etc.), that they don't need any of the slight perks that typical engines might get from having anti freeze in them all year long and not being changed out very often.

    I've heard the claims that synth can run for far longer, but since I tend to have older cars I'm personally not going to risk 30k between oil changes even on synth. And next change I'm not going to make a stupid mistake with picking oil like I did this time. I'll either go back to Royal Purple, or one of the other highly recommended synthetics.

  10. #35
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    81 euro 635, 4.4 X5
    Another lesson well learned. As long as synthetics are in the discussion, what about water wetter?? As to synthetic oil, I am under the impression the engines in our cars, over head cam, are partial to oil with a high zinc count (zddp). I believe this really eliminates synthetics. I am using Shell Rotella which is primarily a dino oil formulated as a diesel oil but very rich in zinc. Brad Penn oil is a green Pennsylvania crude oil also very rich in zinc. The zinc factor is something you should all be aware of as overhead cam engines do like it.
    81 Euro undergoing total nut and bolt restoration
    pictures at: flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos

  11. #36
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    1986 635csi
    I did put some water wetter (actually the Royal Purple "ice super coolant") in with this coolant change. I don't personally have much experience with it, but from what I've seen around forums most say it can help by a few degrees. I don't see much difference right now, but mine probably isn't the greatest example currently with it just having issues over heating to begin with. Honestly it can't really hurt though, especially if you live in a hot area, just be sure to keep your mixture at least 60% or more distilled water.

    Have also read that high zinc is good, and my choice this time around was to go with Valvoline VR1 because of quite a few good reviews of it from BMW forums... even though I made the mistake of getting the non synth stuff because I wasn't looking properly, BUT their synth also has zinc added. Royal Purple also says they have zinc added and are a trusted synth brand.

    It might have just been a fluke, or not taking into account the differences in type, but my old 82' 733 didn't seem to like synth oil at all. But that could have been from synth tending to clean out gunk some and "causing" leaks because it gets the junk from around old seals allowing some oil to seep out. Its all a complicated business having older cars, you never know what you are going to get yourself into or what the previous owners did to them. Making it worse that cars like ours aren't exactly cheap to fix even when doing it yourself.

    Took a look at your photos there, you are doing an amazing job restoring that one. Wish I had a garage to be able to do that to mine, working out of my apartment and in the parking lot is less than fun.

  12. #37
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    81 euro 635, 4.4 X5
    Agree with VR1. Never again will I attempt one like that. Yes the car is as new. Everything mechanical but the trans is either new or rebuilt. All rust has been cut out and new metal let in. Painted in and out top and bottom. All upholstery new. Tracing some electrical bugaboos in the HVAC panel and then fixing the "damage' done by shop gremlins. After that all the exterior trim will go on, the A/C will finish being wired and charged and it will be finished. 10 years later!!,Just got the "mildly" modified M90 running and it sounds more than healthy. I haven't driven it yet but will soon find out how "heathy" healthy is
    81 Euro undergoing total nut and bolt restoration
    pictures at: flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos

  13. #38
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    Jul 2013
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    Las Vegas, NV USA
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    1986 635csi
    Mild update if interested, I went ahead and took the engine apart did another thread about that part for advice

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ed-help-needed

    But it does seem that it might have been the head gasket causing problems, possibly. Lucky for me the head seems to be just fine, there are no cracks and after cleaning it off it doesn't seem at all to be warped.

    Waiting on a few parts to replace, a couple exhaust nuts pulled out the studs and ended up not being able to get two of them off. but once they get here I'm going to start putting it back together. That should be fun...

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Pittsburgh, PA
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    '86 635CSi, '08 128i
    I've heard a few complaints about leaky Victor Reinz head gaskets around the 'net, but I've had pretty good luck with them.

    I'd recommend the copper plated exhaust flange nuts. A BMW tech suggested them to me, they're a lot easier to remove and they're also reusable a few times. They're short enough to fit under the stock cast iron manifold flange and they won't rust away to rounded lumps of metal. They're also outrageously priced, but worth it IMHO. I believe our BMW M30 uses common flanged M8x1.25 nuts with a 12mm hex, here's an ECS Tuning link. I think these might work too, might order a set for my next swap. Amazon has a cheaper set here, and here's a set of 25 M8x1.25 with 14mm heads. It's nice to have a choice, there's an overwhelming number of suppliers out there!
    Save the manuals!
    '08 128i 6MT, '86 635CSi 5MT (B32, Motronic 1.3, WBO2, G265, 18# FW, 3.46 torsen)
    Past projects:
    '96 318iS, sold 4/23 '90 535iM, RIP 1/23 '90 535iA RIP 6/22 '91 318i, sold 7/19 '97 M3 sedan, sold 11/18 '85 735i, RIP 2/18 '92 325iC, sold 7/16 '91 318iS, sold 6/16 '84 745i, sold 10/14 '82 633CSi, traded 9/12 '90 325i, RIP '87 325 sold '89 525i, traded '87 325iS, RIP

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Las Vegas, NV USA
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    1986 635csi
    I actually got the elring gasket kit because of the things I read about the Victor Reinz sets having some issues. And I did get the copper nuts to replace the exhaust nuts because they were badly worn (yes for flange nuts they are expensive), two didn't even come off so I'm having to replace two of the bolt studs.

    Much of the time I go back and forth from Pelican Parts and Amazon to find the best with the best/fastest shipping for cost.

    Thanks for the suggestions there though.

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