Suggested repairs 200K

[kahlilj]

So baby II is approaching 200K and I'm wondering what repairs or PM y'all suggest? I know to have the timing chain guides done, but aside from that here's what I'm thinking from reading other posts on here:

• Install lube guard (shudder fix)
• Check valves behind VANOS solenoids
• Replace Vanos Solenoid Seals
• Replace CCV (OSV)
• Replace Cyclone oil separator in front of motor

Of note:
The main engine issue I'm having is engine shudder, hesitation at low rpm's (1500 - 2000).
There is NO visible exhaust smoke - no grey/white nor blue colored exhaust smoke.

I won't be wrenching this, but indie instead will. Thoughts? Suggestions?

[srq]

Engine Low RPM issue - maybe catalytic converter issue (any cylinder misfire codes?)

PMs - Water hoses, fan clutch, water pump & thermostat, check vacuum hoses.

[kahlilj]

Engine Low RPM issue - maybe catalytic converter issue (any cylinder misfire codes?)

PMs - Water hoses, fan clutch, water pump & thermostat, check vacuum hoses.

Actually yes I did have issues recently with emissions testing and catalytic converter issue was present. If replacing the CC, what brand do you suggest if you have done so?

[rslifkin]

How old are the spark plugs?

[kahlilj]

How old are the spark plugs?

Maybe 4 years? less than 40k on them. They're Denso Iridiums

[Johns01E38]

Sealing it all up with fresh gaskets may solve your running issues. Intake manifold, throttle body plate, CCV, valley pan, timing covers, valve covers, etc gaskets probably all need to be replaced

[acspecialists]

I just did my chain guides. I will only suggest things that are touched and coveinet dur the job.
All of the small coolant hoses from the water pump to the thermostat for the oil cooler, from the oil cooler to the alternator, from the oil cooler to the radiator. I did not originally have them and once I got in there I wish I had. If the water pump is over 30k I would replace it. If the fan clutch is over 30k I would replace it with an E65 fan and clutch. Both items were fairly new when I bought my car and I ended up replacing them. Then when I did the chainguides I replaced them again. That includes the thermostat. As for the Vanos your car is new enough to have the updated valve bodies. The crimping is the real fix for vanos noise the other seal are a sidebar. The biggest one of all will be to clean all of the debris out of the radiator and condenser. I could no believe how much crap was stuck in between the two. My E60 M5 was the same way.

As for the low RPM shudder try a new OEM MAF. If you have done a smoke test and the engine is tight try unplugging the MAF and go for a ride and see if the problem goes away. I actually have a spare transmission becaused my car was stumbling on acceleration. It was the MAF, I tried to aftermarket ones with no change. I put in an OEM MAF and the problem has never returned.

[kahlilj]

Sealing it all up with fresh gaskets may solve your running issues. Intake manifold, throttle body plate, CCV, valley pan, timing covers, valve covers, etc gaskets probably all need to be replaced

good idea.

I just did my chain guides. I will only suggest things that are touched and coveinet dur the job.
All of the small coolant hoses from the water pump to the thermostat for the oil cooler, from the oil cooler to the alternator, from the oil cooler to the radiator. I did not originally have them and once I got in there I wish I had. If the water pump is over 30k I would replace it. If the fan clutch is over 30k I would replace it with an E65 fan and clutch. Both items were fairly new when I bought my car and I ended up replacing them. Then when I did the chainguides I replaced them again. That includes the thermostat. As for the Vanos your car is new enough to have the updated valve bodies. The crimping is the real fix for vanos noise the other seal are a sidebar. The biggest one of all will be to clean all of the debris out of the radiator and condenser. I could no believe how much crap was stuck in between the two. My E60 M5 was the same way.

As for the low RPM shudder try a new OEM MAF. If you have done a smoke test and the engine is tight try unplugging the MAF and go for a ride and see if the problem goes away. I actually have a spare transmission becaused my car was stumbling on acceleration. It was the MAF, I tried to aftermarket ones with no change. I put in an OEM MAF and the problem has never returned.

That's good stuff ACS. Thanks for the tips. Did you ever try cleaning the MAF sensor before replacing it?

[Haydenhager]

Does your low rpm shutter go away if you drive in 4s or 3s (sport mode) instead of drive?

I’m having a similar problem but I always thought it was due to a failing torque converter due to reduced symptoms in sport mode.

[acspecialists]

I did not try and clean the MAF. Based on my research at the time most people had no improvement with a bad MAF.

[kahlilj]

Does your low rpm shutter go away if you drive in 4s or 3s (sport mode) instead of drive?

I’m having a similar problem but I always thought it was due to a failing torque converter due to reduced symptoms in sport mode.

I haven't tried that, but will. So if it does go away or reduce noticeably it could be a failed TC?

[Haydenhager]

Depends on your definition of failed. I’ve been driving on mine for 2 years and 15k miles in sport mode.


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[Mayorchuck]

Does your low rpm shutter go away if you drive in 4s or 3s (sport mode) instead of drive?

I’m having a similar problem but I always thought it was due to a failing torque converter due to reduced symptoms in sport mode.

Yes. This would stop the 'drone' noise and rpm drop on mine. A fluid/filter change, with the addition of a friction modifier Dr. Tranny, took care of my issue. This was about 6-7 years ago. No further issues to date.

[georgebest]

Yes. This would stop the 'drone' noise and rpm drop on mine. A fluid/filter change, with the addition of a friction modifier Dr. Tranny, took care of my issue. This was about 6-7 years ago. No further issues to date.

Interesting, Dr Tranny seems to be working for me only approx 6 months, need to add another two tubes then.

[purplecty]

2 tubes is the max you will want to use...

[kahlilj]

Yes. This would stop the 'drone' noise and rpm drop on mine. A fluid/filter change, with the addition of a friction modifier Dr. Tranny, took care of my issue. This was about 6-7 years ago. No further issues to date.

Do you need to do the fluid change as well? it seems for some changing the fluid is risky, like it could cause damage?

2 tubes is the max you will want to use...

Wait a sec, I was only planning to use 1 tube. How do you know if 2 tubes are needed?

[purplecty]

Do you need to do the fluid change as well? it seems for some changing the fluid is risky, like it could cause damage?



Wait a sec, I was only planning to use 1 tube. How do you know if 2 tubes are needed?

I used 2

[kahlilj]

Why 2?

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[Mayorchuck]

Do you need to do the fluid change as well? it seems for some changing the fluid is risky, like it could cause damage?



Wait a sec, I was only planning to use 1 tube. How do you know if 2 tubes are needed?

A friend of mine has worked on German cars for over 30 years. He refused to do a flush and only replaced what was is needed when doing a filter change. He was the one who recommended Dr. Tranny. It's the only 'snake oil' additive he uses. Only one tube in my case.

[Haydenhager]

Sounds like I need a filter change and some Dr. Tranny


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[georgebest]

Why 2?

It's supposed to be one tube per three quarts or similar, you have approx six quarts in tranny.

[georgebest]

A friend of mine has worked on German cars for over 30 years. He refused to do a flush and only replaced what was is needed when doing a filter change. He was the one who recommended Dr. Tranny. It's the only 'snake oil' additive he uses. Only one tube in my case.

That friend was smart. I've had zero issues with my tranny until I decided to service it. After new fluid and filter started the shudder (used ZF oil and filter of course). The old fluid had likely a higher viscosity.
It is fine now with Dr. Tranny, I'm actually planning to use their long term product soon, see if that lasts longer: https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-6090...18EBV19XTJD5GK

[acspecialists]

Crap! I just got reminded that I did not add it the last time when I was dealing with the output speed sensor. Going to have to get some in there.

[racer2086]

Only add it if you need it. Regular PM on the transmission should be fluid and filter every 50k or so

[georgebest]

Only add it if you need it. Regular PM on the transmission should be fluid and filter every 50k or so

Correct, no point adding it if you have no issue. It's just a band-aid on a failing torque converter until you get a new one.