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Thread: Need help/info and tips before i buy

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    If you like your kidneys, then stick with the 18's.

    I am currently running Michelins Pilot sport 4, and they are super sticky. Now you can get the 4S, but they tend to cost more, just be sure to shop around as well as checking your local tire shop. If you want to bump up the sizes, you can run these on the stock rims:

    245/40 R-18
    265/40 R-18

    As for the bearing, get the oil changed, and have a sample send to Blackstone labs. They can tell you if it is time to do the bearings, and also let you know how healthy the motor is on the inside.
    I will use some caution with Blackstone. First you need to establish a trend, absolute numbers (even compared to their avg) dont mean much. Also, as described and discussed in this thread, there are many times analysis comes back good but owner decided to replace bearings anyway for whatever reason and they looked horrible. Conversely, sometimes oil analysis comes back with warnings to replace asap and owner replaces them just to find they were still in really good condition, not warranting numbers seen on reports.

    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=431107

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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by twiceasfastasyo View Post
    Upgrade the OEM cooling system to Mishimoto if you want absolute peace of mind;
    I will go back to my comment about track guys or dual purpose guys who run their cars in the desert (so not just moving at speed on track getting air flow, also dd-ing in stop and go) do perfectly fine with refreshed oe radiators and don't run any fans (mechanical or electric). Mishimoto is more expensive and does not provide any additional benefit (spare me the marketing about extra capacity, rows, etc). IF you live in super humid areas and drive in stop and go traffic you might need the fan, but that's about it.

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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by twiceasfastasyo View Post
    lol right on.. I hope to be one of the regular track goers here real soon.. just need to relocate the damn SMG pump or pull it, convert bell housing etc for 6SM and call it a day! But... sadly... first the top end, then bottom with new rod bearings, ARP on the main line & rod caps, maybe even do new Pistons + rings if I feel the block needs work. Lot yet to do, but how very exciting! Always something to look forward to with this car
    I refreshed everything on my car (short of block/pistons/head work) a few summers ago, so now I only keep up with tires/brakes and gas (although I run e85 with flexfuel).

    Definitely a lot ahead for you. Patience and luxury of not having it as your dd is key. Now I have a baby and dd with the baby, so glad I refreshed everything when I did, not as much time now, or patience...

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  4. #29
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    Whenever you size up the rims, you are changing the dynamics of the suspension. I will post up some pictures of the 18's, but I never wanted to go up to 19's as I am in my 40's and after having too many kidney punching cars, prefer the softer ride.

    Yes, maintenance is key on these cars, and it all comes down to what or how you like to drive. I am a aggressive driver, but I don't track or autocross anymore, so I don't see the need for things like ARP Head studs, ect.
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by twiceasfastasyo View Post
    By all means do so, but just keep in mind.. I would divert all funds once you have the car acquired to the most vital, important stuff right off the bat. To me, rebuilding the VANOS should come absolutely first along with a proper engine flush and oil change; even if you're at 10,000 miles.. I pulled my replaced OEM upper chain guide after just ~10k mileage since the rebuild.. you could already see the wear the timing chain was leaving on the weak spot on that OE design! Not to mention, who knows how long Buna rubber seals actually last; and you've GOT to check & replace the cam hub and sprocket bolts to the upgraded design, along with the oil pump disk with Beisan System's modified version asap. You obviously won't need to worry about the head gasket or bearings yet, but I'd start protecting these areas ASAP. Upgrade the OEM cooling system to Mishimoto if you want absolute peace of mind; flush the coolant / bleed the system on regular intervals at the bare minimum. I'd upgrade your water pump down the road to a metal impeller also.

    I highly recommend Liquimoly's engine flush right before draining the old oil, then their GT1 Synthoil Race Tech + their Ceratec friction modifier to protect the rod bearings. I spent money in areas I shouldn't have prior to taking care of the weak spots upon getting my M3; I'm regretting having to spend buttloads of money at this point getting it all done in one major sweep now that the head is pulled, although bright side is tons of room to get everything done that I need, including the starter bolts by the rear coolant hoses! What a PITA.


    yea hear you!! but thats whole lots of fixing and upgrading..mind asking or if you know roughly estimate if i do that in one time? reason i asked because i can put my funds in there and budget my spending lol...thanks fam!!

  6. #31
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    but thanks ya all for patience and educating me... ive been a fan of m3 and as i need all the tips and what must fix on this car. luckily i can afford the maintenance otherwise i wont get this toy lol as for me this is the best m3 ever..reasoned i snagged one..but thanks again!! as always, tips and more educating is welcome..please let me know the priority what really must first..as this is classic and wont run in the track, i am planning to be in oem as much as possible what really must done....my lexus rcf is already in shit load of mods do im keeping tis classis as simple...for vanos, according to dealer when i purchased it, they said no issue and all good and so the subframe, i believd they did 3ok miles maintenance on thisbut still planning to flushing all the oils, coolant, water pump and etc on this and have the vanos check again and the subframe....not sure how much $$ ill spend doing the priority for non tracking car..but ill start first flushing by running new PPI and checking Vanos, subframe and flushing all oil, coolant and wate...thanks again for meing awesome

  7. #32
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    Caution on subframe "check". Simply shining a flashlight onto the subframe and the underpanel and not seeing cracks does NOT mean you dont have any. To properly inspect, you need to drop the subframe to check the area under the bushings. You also need to clean the undercoating to see what is hiding under it. So just be careful when someone tells you they "inspected" the subframe and found no cracks. IF you see cracks by simply doing a visual inspection without dropping the subframe, that means the subframe is in REALLY bad shape for the cracks to have propagated that far from under the bushings.

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  8. #33
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    +1

    You will need to drop the whole sub frame to see anything. There are reinforcement kits out there, ECS-Tuning is one that sells them.
    Darin
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    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
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    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
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  9. #34
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    Another caution on subframe "reinforcement" kits. Due to the dual panel nature of racp, kits by ecs do not address the underlying nature of failure of racp by simply providing plates for epoxy-ing or welding to only the bottom panel.

    Please research vincebar kits and cpm engineering kits which address the actual failure modes by "tying" the two panels together and reinforcing them via bars/beams from the top (which is a critical component to bullet proofing the subframe).

    Many topics/posts on this on m3forum.net.

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  10. #35
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    You need to completely degrease the bottom end to inspect the cracks and weld spots properly

    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    +1

    You will need to drop the whole sub frame to see anything. There are reinforcement kits out there, ECS-Tuning is one that sells them.
    2004 BMW e46 ///M3 S54 3.2L I6 NA ~360BHP RTD-6SM | Fully-rebuilt motor (forged lightweight rods & FSR pistons + rebalanced crank) & suspension, Conforti shark injector tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, Megan Racing catless SS headers (ceramic coated) + Status Gruppe sec 1 rasp elim + sec 2 un-resonated X-pipe + DNA motoring muffler (LOUD)
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    2012 VW GTI Mk6 2.0TSI EA888 2.0L I4 Turbo ~250BHP 6SM | Stratified tune, IE intake, hi-flow cat/downpipe, unresonated mid sec, stock gutted muffler (Sporty, civilized)



  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
    I refreshed everything on my car (short of block/pistons/head work) a few summers ago, so now I only keep up with tires/brakes and gas (although I run e85 with flexfuel).

    Definitely a lot ahead for you. Patience and luxury of not having it as your dd is key. Now I have a baby and dd with the baby, so glad I refreshed everything when I did, not as much time now, or patience...

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    I also drive both a 2014 370Z 3.7L VQ37VHR and 2006 Audi A4 Avant 2.0T FSI sleeper wagon, so no worries here When the M is out commission, the Z takes over and there are no complaints! Winter or shitty weather comes the wagon, quattro season!

    It's all good, lots of work for sure but, once done and bulletproofed, we're good to go for many many miles ahead much like you!
    2004 BMW e46 ///M3 S54 3.2L I6 NA ~360BHP RTD-6SM | Fully-rebuilt motor (forged lightweight rods & FSR pistons + rebalanced crank) & suspension, Conforti shark injector tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, Megan Racing catless SS headers (ceramic coated) + Status Gruppe sec 1 rasp elim + sec 2 un-resonated X-pipe + DNA motoring muffler (LOUD)
    2013 BMW e82 135i
    ///M-Sport N55 3.0L I6 Twin-scroll Turbo ~380BHP DCT | MHD Stage 2+ tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, free-flow/catless down-pipe + unresonated mid sec + straight piped rear w/ titanium quad burnt tips (LOUD)
    2012 VW GTI Mk6 2.0TSI EA888 2.0L I4 Turbo ~250BHP 6SM | Stratified tune, IE intake, hi-flow cat/downpipe, unresonated mid sec, stock gutted muffler (Sporty, civilized)



  12. #37
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    +1

    I would get an actual rear strut brace bar in-combo w/ V2 plates kit by Redish.. the other reinforcement kits seem to not cover as much surface area as the V2 plates from Redish. Combined with proper bracing, you should have this area rectified appropriately.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
    Another caution on subframe "reinforcement" kits. Due to the dual panel nature of racp, kits by ecs do not address the underlying nature of failure of racp by simply providing plates for epoxy-ing or welding to only the bottom panel.

    Please research vincebar kits and cpm engineering kits which address the actual failure modes by "tying" the two panels together and reinforcing them via bars/beams from the top (which is a critical component to bullet proofing the subframe).

    Many topics/posts on this on m3forum.net.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    2004 BMW e46 ///M3 S54 3.2L I6 NA ~360BHP RTD-6SM | Fully-rebuilt motor (forged lightweight rods & FSR pistons + rebalanced crank) & suspension, Conforti shark injector tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, Megan Racing catless SS headers (ceramic coated) + Status Gruppe sec 1 rasp elim + sec 2 un-resonated X-pipe + DNA motoring muffler (LOUD)
    2013 BMW e82 135i
    ///M-Sport N55 3.0L I6 Twin-scroll Turbo ~380BHP DCT | MHD Stage 2+ tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, free-flow/catless down-pipe + unresonated mid sec + straight piped rear w/ titanium quad burnt tips (LOUD)
    2012 VW GTI Mk6 2.0TSI EA888 2.0L I4 Turbo ~250BHP 6SM | Stratified tune, IE intake, hi-flow cat/downpipe, unresonated mid sec, stock gutted muffler (Sporty, civilized)



  13. #38
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    so, i have local shops to check possible subframe cracks on my car. luckily, there is no crack at all as they drop the subframe and check all the areas and in the bushing..now question, should i go to local shops and still have them strengthen it? or leave it as it is for now? Vanos looks good too and no issue.. only thing they did is the rear diff fluid to change to oem to maybe no more rubbing sound on the rear..hope that fix it as they didnt see anything else

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomz09 View Post
    so, i have local shops to check possible subframe cracks on my car. luckily, there is no crack at all as they drop the subframe and check all the areas and in the bushing..now question, should i go to local shops and still have them strengthen it? or leave it as it is for now? Vanos looks good too and no issue.. only thing they did is the rear diff fluid to change to oem to maybe no more rubbing sound on the rear..hope that fix it as they didnt see anything else
    You will still need to plan to reinforce the subframe. On vanos, similar to subframe, without taking it apart, you can not tell the condition. All they did is probably just take off the valve cover and confirm that both exhaust tabs are intact...there is a lot more that fails on the vanos that you can not see with a valve cover off or a code scanner, like sheering bolts, broken chain guides, worn/leaking seals, etc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
    You will still need to plan to reinforce the subframe. On vanos, similar to subframe, without taking it apart, you can not tell the condition. All they did is probably just take off the valve cover and confirm that both exhaust tabs are intact...there is a lot more that fails on the vanos that you can not see with a valve cover off or a code scanner, like sheering bolts, broken chain guides, worn/leaking seals, etc.

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    hmmm i actually got a quote for VANOS, head gasket, rod bearings and smg pump replacement and gets pricey..is this prices about right?

    Head Gasket Replacement w/ Machining Head - $3300.00 Parts & Labor
    Rod Bearings Replacement (BE Bearings) - $1700.00 Parts & Labor
    Genuine OE SMG Pump Replacement - $4420.00 Parts & Labor
    Subframe Reinforcement
    Our rear subframe reinforcement package starts at $1450.00
    VANOS rebuilds are roughly $1670.00. We exclusively use Beisan Systems

    jsut making is price is reasonable. although it is not must yet, thinking doing it all at once.



  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomz09 View Post
    hmmm i actually got a quote for VANOS, head gasket, rod bearings and smg pump replacement and gets pricey..is this prices about right?

    Head Gasket Replacement w/ Machining Head - $3300.00 Parts & Labor
    Rod Bearings Replacement (BE Bearings) - $1700.00 Parts & Labor
    Genuine OE SMG Pump Replacement - $4420.00 Parts & Labor
    Subframe Reinforcement
    Our rear subframe reinforcement package starts at $1450.00
    VANOS rebuilds are roughly $1670.00. We exclusively use Beisan Systems

    jsut making is price is reasonable. although it is not must yet, thinking doing it all at once.


    Sorry, I'll be a little blunt because I feel like I'm spending a bit too much time in this thread. Read some of the threads I posted from m3forum to learn about these cars, what to look out for, etc, especially my first link to m3forum.

    I dont know why you would be doing a head gasket and head work, if I remember correctly, you were looking at cars that were 12k and 30k miles? Did you do a compression test, or see oil in coolant, or car misfiring, or any number of other reasons?

    Also why you would be doing rod bearings at this mileage? Any knock? Any pattern established from oil analysis?

    Vanos rebuild - you need to figure out what that entails, most rebuilds will just replace the seals in the vanos unit itself, without addressing bolts, plastic guide, etc, which requires timing tools because you will be disassociating splines from hubs.

    Subframe - do some research and depends on what solution you go with, Vince, cmp, Mason bar, Redish, Turner, epoxy vs weld vs structural foam, etc etc.

    Smg - research salmon relay and relocation kits to get it away from heat and malfunctioning. I don't think at that mileage this is needed yet.

    You can get a brand new car with 0 miles on the clock and take it to a shop and tell them to do the head gasket...they will gladly do it and charge for labor. You dont need most of the items listed...

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  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
    Sorry, I'll be a little blunt because I feel like I'm spending a bit too much time in this thread. Read some of the threads I posted from m3forum to learn about these cars, what to look out for, etc, especially my first link to m3forum.

    I dont know why you would be doing a head gasket and head work, if I remember correctly, you were looking at cars that were 12k and 30k miles? Did you do a compression test, or see oil in coolant, or car misfiring, or any number of other reasons?

    Also why you would be doing rod bearings at this mileage? Any knock? Any pattern established from oil analysis?

    Vanos rebuild - you need to figure out what that entails, most rebuilds will just replace the seals in the vanos unit itself, without addressing bolts, plastic guide, etc, which requires timing tools because you will be disassociating splines from hubs.

    Subframe - do some research and depends on what solution you go with, Vince, cmp, Mason bar, Redish, Turner, epoxy vs weld vs structural foam, etc etc.

    Smg - research salmon relay and relocation kits to get it away from heat and malfunctioning. I don't think at that mileage this is needed yet.

    You can get a brand new car with 0 miles on the clock and take it to a shop and tell them to do the head gasket...they will gladly do it and charge for labor. You dont need most of the items listed...

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    no need to apologized man!! you are just giving your 5cents here. i gave those numbers to see if its reasonale but it doesnt mean i will do it specially i only have 30k mileage on mine. but i want to prepare for it just incase so i know the numbers and i can start saving..but my mine prioritize right now is the subframe and vanos. the rest i can do it in later time when it is needed. but thanks a lot really for your output... but for subframe, what solution you recommend? the best recommendation?

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomz09 View Post
    no need to apologized man!! you are just giving your 5cents here. i gave those numbers to see if its reasonale but it doesnt mean i will do it specially i only have 30k mileage on mine. but i want to prepare for it just incase so i know the numbers and i can start saving..but my mine prioritize right now is the subframe and vanos. the rest i can do it in later time when it is needed. but thanks a lot really for your output... but for subframe, what solution you recommend? the best recommendation?
    By the time that car will need a head gasket in 5-10 years, you will either not have it by then and/or prices would double by then. Or you will learn to diy and save a lot of $.

    Subframe - problem is there is no single solution (outside of either parking your car in a garage and not driving it or going full racecar with a full cage that ties all points of racp and shock towers together) that has stood the test of time over 5-10 years. However based on some friends of friends, word of mouth, shop talk, race team talk, forums, etc, it is clear that just welding/epoxy-ing plates to the bottom panel of racp does not solve the problem, it will still flex and stress relative to the top panel. Plates started as a solution because the 2-panel nature of racp and actual failure modes were misunderstood. What is required and addresses the core problems is a topside solution like Vince or CMP. Cant tell you which is better, both are great engineers. Vince you can find and chat on Facebook, Cayn from CMP is active on Facebook and m3forum.net. Another thing that is clear is that you should not do structural foam only or with plates, because if later there is still a failure, welding with structural foam is not "allowed" since it's flammable.

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  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
    By the time that car will need a head gasket in 5-10 years, you will either not have it by then and/or prices would double by then. Or you will learn to diy and save a lot of $.

    Subframe - problem is there is no single solution (outside of either parking your car in a garage and not driving it or going full racecar with a full cage that ties all points of racp and shock towers together) that has stood the test of time over 5-10 years. However based on some friends of friends, word of mouth, shop talk, race team talk, forums, etc, it is clear that just welding/epoxy-ing plates to the bottom panel of racp does not solve the problem, it will still flex and stress relative to the top panel. Plates started as a solution because the 2-panel nature of racp and actual failure modes were misunderstood. What is required and addresses the core problems is a topside solution like Vince or CMP. Cant tell you which is better, both are great engineers. Vince you can find and chat on Facebook, Cayn from CMP is active on Facebook and m3forum.net. Another thing that is clear is that you should not do structural foam only or with plates, because if later there is still a failure, welding with structural foam is not "allowed" since it's flammable.

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    hmmm interesting!! would doing this will correct, reinforced the the issue? as this is what he body shop told me it will. as below is what they gonna do:


    • Disassembly
    • Undercarriage degreasing
    • Undercarriage surface prep (grind off all undercarriage coating to reveal any flaws in rear axle carrier panel)
    • Minor/Average crack repair (drill stress relief hole at ends of cracks, then repair with welding)
    • Welding in rear subframe reinforcement plates
    • Triple stage undercarriage coating (multi-layer process to have the best resistance to corrosion)
    • Internal cavity sealant (internal cavity spray to protect/coat the internal walls of the chassis)
    • Reassembly
    • Brake fluid flush
    • Alignment
    • Rear subframe reinforcement plates
    • Brake fluid
    • Miscellaneous clamps/hardware that are one time use

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomz09 View Post
    hmmm interesting!! would doing this will correct, reinforced the the issue? as this is what he body shop told me it will. as below is what they gonna do:


    • Disassembly
    • Undercarriage degreasing
    • Undercarriage surface prep (grind off all undercarriage coating to reveal any flaws in rear axle carrier panel)
    • Minor/Average crack repair (drill stress relief hole at ends of cracks, then repair with welding)
    • Welding in rear subframe reinforcement plates
    • Triple stage undercarriage coating (multi-layer process to have the best resistance to corrosion)
    • Internal cavity sealant (internal cavity spray to protect/coat the internal walls of the chassis)
    • Reassembly
    • Brake fluid flush
    • Alignment
    • Rear subframe reinforcement plates
    • Brake fluid
    • Miscellaneous clamps/hardware that are one time use
    Insane that you're going to have a shop do these jobs for you.. I don't have the money to throw at labor, only at parts, so you're very lucky to be able to afford all of this! There are those that will tell you to meticulously diagnose your car to find what you need to address first and foremost, but if you have the money, you mind as well refresh everything. I'm going down the same route inevitably due to a 122k or so on the motor. Turns out, after pulling the head and getting the top end taken care of, the bottom end was the issue of failure. The engine block has rust bubbling underneath the protective coating on the outside of the block. If I want to play it safe, I'm going to have to pull the rest of the motor and rebuild it. What I thought was going to be a 4-week project turned into 2-4 months lmao.. oh well, I love her too much. Looks like its another couple months driving the Audi wagon as the daily.

    Send the shop you're having this work performed by a few videos of Redish Motorsport's R&R / underside restoration process.. it should give them a good idea of what it takes to do a great job on this car. Prices looked typical, actually more on the cheaper side at least from where I'm at. Shops here typically charge $3-5k just for a head gasket replacement, rod bearings another $3k!
    2004 BMW e46 ///M3 S54 3.2L I6 NA ~360BHP RTD-6SM | Fully-rebuilt motor (forged lightweight rods & FSR pistons + rebalanced crank) & suspension, Conforti shark injector tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, Megan Racing catless SS headers (ceramic coated) + Status Gruppe sec 1 rasp elim + sec 2 un-resonated X-pipe + DNA motoring muffler (LOUD)
    2013 BMW e82 135i
    ///M-Sport N55 3.0L I6 Twin-scroll Turbo ~380BHP DCT | MHD Stage 2+ tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, free-flow/catless down-pipe + unresonated mid sec + straight piped rear w/ titanium quad burnt tips (LOUD)
    2012 VW GTI Mk6 2.0TSI EA888 2.0L I4 Turbo ~250BHP 6SM | Stratified tune, IE intake, hi-flow cat/downpipe, unresonated mid sec, stock gutted muffler (Sporty, civilized)



  21. #46
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Menlo Park
    Posts
    87
    My Cars
    '05 ///M3
    To answer op's question, no, from the list of items for the subframe, they list that they will only weld on the reinforcement plates to the bottom panel, not addressing the actual issue that requires topside reinforcement of some sort.

    Please read why sub frames fail and the latest solutions, which include topside beams/bars: http://cmpautoengineering.com/techni...ubframes-fail/

    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=552534
    http://cmpautoengineering.com/cmp-en...rame-solution/


    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=555302

    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=529214


    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    2004 BMW E46 M3 Coupe
    The reason why topside reinforcement is important is to ensure shock absorption is evenly distributed throughout the body chassis, preventing uneven stress in the various weakspots of the rear subframe. Some of the worst areas that are usually not addressed occur underneath the rear seats, removal of the applied seam sealer, glue adhesive, etc. which need to be stripped out to properly inspect the damage. Furthermore, drilling inspection holes to the left and right internal RACP sections from the rear seat area must be conducted to see the full extent of the damage to the internal RACP welds. If the welds are defective, one must cut out part of the paneling on the left and right sides to access the defective welds for the internal RACP sections.

    It's one thing to read about all this, but PLEASE do yourself a favor and as-mentioned, view the extent of the damage for yourself to clearly see what we're talking about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uo7CLEQfTBw

    A Vince Bar should be the way to go ontop of general rear subframe R&R using V2 Redish plates.. notice how meticulous Redish is with inspecting each weld spot, hairline cracks, the whole 9 yards.. and then the amount/layers/types of sealer and other protectants to the underside post-R&R. Again, I would highly recommend reviewing as many of Redish Motorsport's subframe R&R videos as you possible can.. it will make fully understand the extent of the damage, and what it takes to properly address this issue (ontop of topside reinforcement).

    I know I'm going to sound like a broken record.. but I would highly suggest addressing your VANOS unit first and foremost. Then from there, you have some flexibility to decide what to do next. It's unlikely your subframe is heavily damaged to a point of inoperability, to give you time to properly rebuild the VANOS. I was able to do this in 3-4 weekends, and could've been far less time if I hadn't snapped a cam bolt or destroyed the intake splined shaft stud bearing! Pretty easy compared to HG or rod bearings job, can definitely DIY it in your home garage following Beisan System's VANOS rebuild procedure.. make sure to use Beisan's modified upper chain guide instead of OEM so it doesn't snap within 20-40k miles of replacement!!
    2004 BMW e46 ///M3 S54 3.2L I6 NA ~360BHP RTD-6SM | Fully-rebuilt motor (forged lightweight rods & FSR pistons + rebalanced crank) & suspension, Conforti shark injector tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, Megan Racing catless SS headers (ceramic coated) + Status Gruppe sec 1 rasp elim + sec 2 un-resonated X-pipe + DNA motoring muffler (LOUD)
    2013 BMW e82 135i
    ///M-Sport N55 3.0L I6 Twin-scroll Turbo ~380BHP DCT | MHD Stage 2+ tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, free-flow/catless down-pipe + unresonated mid sec + straight piped rear w/ titanium quad burnt tips (LOUD)
    2012 VW GTI Mk6 2.0TSI EA888 2.0L I4 Turbo ~250BHP 6SM | Stratified tune, IE intake, hi-flow cat/downpipe, unresonated mid sec, stock gutted muffler (Sporty, civilized)



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