Hello All,
First off, i am new here. Ive been wanting to buy m3 e46 for awhile. but to make it short, i saw some 2003 m3 convertible and one has 12k miles and other is 30k miles. is there any tips or maybe i sould look out for before i buy? any major issues or i concerns that i need to buy before i pull this off? thanks in advance. also, is the price for $26k for 12k miles good deal? and $19k for 30k god deal also? please let me know. both cars by the way has 2-3 previous owners. thanks again...
Few good threads for you. Also, m3forum.net has a tonne of active members and a great community for e46 m3, so join there.
Good luck.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=189390
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=309081
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thanks bruh!! great help...then the price of the car im looking is reasonable then..thanks gain..big help
+1
Even a low mileage BMW can have problems, so PPI is a must.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
right! actually this is from the dealer. according to them they did PPI and everything came back clean including the Vanos. if PPI came back clean should be good then correct?
I would like to see some proof of course. Now most of the time it is a 120 point inspection, which is pretty much a CPO inspection.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
The S54 is a race engine, and should be treated as-such. Be prepared for a money pit (well worth though). Major issues are (be prepared to eventually address them, you cannot avoid these areas):
-> VANOS unit (Beisan Systems rebuild) - modified oil pump disk, Viton rubber seals instead of Buna, filter cleanup/replacement, cam hub and shaft bolts replacements, anti-rattle splined shafts rebuild, upper timing chain guide rail upgrade, etc
-> Head gasket - get cut/cooper ring or MLS, use ARP head studs, improve cooling system setup w/ Mishimoto perf alum radiator + fan shroud w/ NPT + perf oil cooler, new water pump w/ metal impeller, silicone radiator hoses, full flush/bleed, etc
-> Rod Bearings (there are many options here; BE bearings designs w/ extra clearance to mitigate the premature wear issue, I've seen alot go with King Racing bearings, use ARP studs on the main line, ARP rod bolts)
-> SMG (if applicable) - electric motor replacement + better flowing fluid by Burkhart Engineering / if 6SM, general overhaul is recommended (metal clutch fork upgrade, seals replacements, etc etc)
-> Subframe reinforcement - this may apply to the front if you use solid engine and trans mounts, but mainly the rear. I HIGHLY suggest watching many of Redish Motorsports videos on this, along with their V2 plates reinforcement kit/procedure.
-> Suspension - OE rubber bushings, control arms, retainers, tie rods + end links, shocks, springs, sway bars, etc. will all wear out. Upgrade, upgrade, upgrade. I've gone with Bilstein B6 shocks, H&R springs + swaybars, poly bushings throughout.
Beyond this, the list could go on and on but, generally this is what I've found to be major areas of concern with my 2004 M3, now at 122k miles, currently undergoing a head gasket replacement.. see my mods list in my sig
Good luck! As others have absolutely mentioned already, I must reiterate that the E46 M3 and the S54 motor is def NOT for everyone. If you have the heart and true passion, pull the trigger & be ready for a wild ride.. otherwise, if you're a wuss with eventual major engine & suspension work (and don't have the money to pay someone else to do it for you), I would shy away lol
Last edited by twiceasfastasyo; 04-30-2019 at 09:51 PM.
2004 BMW e46 ///M3 S54 3.2L I6 NA ~360BHP RTD-6SM | Fully-rebuilt motor (forged lightweight rods & FSR pistons + rebalanced crank) & suspension, Conforti shark injector tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, Megan Racing catless SS headers (ceramic coated) + Status Gruppe sec 1 rasp elim + sec 2 un-resonated X-pipe + DNA motoring muffler (LOUD)
2013 BMW e82 135i ///M-Sport N55 3.0L I6 Twin-scroll Turbo ~380BHP DCT | MHD Stage 2+ tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, free-flow/catless down-pipe + unresonated mid sec + straight piped rear w/ titanium quad burnt tips (LOUD)
2012 VW GTI Mk6 2.0TSI EA888 2.0L I4 Turbo ~250BHP 6SM | Stratified tune, IE intake, hi-flow cat/downpipe, unresonated mid sec, stock gutted muffler (Sporty, civilized)
This is awesome!!doing that in one time is like buying another m3 lol..but thanks for the heads up!!..i pulled the trigger as it is always been my dream and my fav m3..i have lexus rcf coz bmw gets expensive not that i have $$ for maintenance, just pulled the trigger..its a fun ride and got it for 30k mileage...i paid $18k though...heading to dealership to check another PPI and have them check the whole car and replace what is needed...but ill keep all this in mind and tell the dealer to check it...reason im going to dealer first..thanks again!!
DON'T use the dealer to do work on the car, it will cost you a lot more than going to an indy shop who knows these cars. There is a reason the dealer is called a stealer, lol.
Congrats on the car, but read the thread I posted from m3forum to know what to look out for in these cars.
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Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
They came oem on later model year cars so you will be fine.
Here is a good thread on tire sizing for 18 or 19 http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=318122
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AGREED 1000% You WILL be screwing yourself over properly. I've avoided between $5-10k in labor if I were to have the BMW dealership in my city perform the work... besides, its QUITE the learning opportunity to perform the work yourself. Just research meticulously over and over until you're confident you understand the logic behind each step taken, you'd be surprised what one can do with a little patience and careful thought!
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19s look great but worse on gas mileage, and your rim and tire selection is reduced drastically. 18s are just fine.. get wheel spacers... R888s if you want insane grip!
2004 BMW e46 ///M3 S54 3.2L I6 NA ~360BHP RTD-6SM | Fully-rebuilt motor (forged lightweight rods & FSR pistons + rebalanced crank) & suspension, Conforti shark injector tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, Megan Racing catless SS headers (ceramic coated) + Status Gruppe sec 1 rasp elim + sec 2 un-resonated X-pipe + DNA motoring muffler (LOUD)
2013 BMW e82 135i ///M-Sport N55 3.0L I6 Twin-scroll Turbo ~380BHP DCT | MHD Stage 2+ tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, free-flow/catless down-pipe + unresonated mid sec + straight piped rear w/ titanium quad burnt tips (LOUD)
2012 VW GTI Mk6 2.0TSI EA888 2.0L I4 Turbo ~250BHP 6SM | Stratified tune, IE intake, hi-flow cat/downpipe, unresonated mid sec, stock gutted muffler (Sporty, civilized)
I haven't heard of many engines requiring head gasket...unless they run leaner and are in europe...
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While not so common as you said, it's definitely more common than one may think.. many are proactively replaced to not see them completely fail when approaching 100k miles mark.. mine apparently was, as when I pulled the head off we found an MLS gasket on her instead of OEM. It did appear to have separated between many of the layers, especially between the narrow gap of the cylinders.
The main issue with the S54 is, out of the factory, BMW did not torque plate the block upon mating with the head, resulting in, over time, eventual egg shaped cylinders with a rather large window in the bore, leading to oil consumption, in combination with mixing of the oil and water between the jackets.. overheating leading to eventual lifting of the head gasket, which can cause MLS to even fail. Precisely why I've opted for ARP2000 head studs conversion instead of OEM, a cut/cooper ring gasket instead of MLS which will have a much better seal, and complete revamp of the cooling system thanks to Mishimoto.. 30 F less temps for oil, 32% increase in coolant surface area, 25% increase in coolant capacity, huge CFM with the electric fan shroud.. hopefully should bullet proof the top end. Ideally, I should be torque plating the block before reinstalling my skimmed head.. figured if I won't be planning on FI anytime soon, there is no need.
2004 BMW e46 ///M3 S54 3.2L I6 NA ~360BHP RTD-6SM | Fully-rebuilt motor (forged lightweight rods & FSR pistons + rebalanced crank) & suspension, Conforti shark injector tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, Megan Racing catless SS headers (ceramic coated) + Status Gruppe sec 1 rasp elim + sec 2 un-resonated X-pipe + DNA motoring muffler (LOUD)
2013 BMW e82 135i ///M-Sport N55 3.0L I6 Twin-scroll Turbo ~380BHP DCT | MHD Stage 2+ tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, free-flow/catless down-pipe + unresonated mid sec + straight piped rear w/ titanium quad burnt tips (LOUD)
2012 VW GTI Mk6 2.0TSI EA888 2.0L I4 Turbo ~250BHP 6SM | Stratified tune, IE intake, hi-flow cat/downpipe, unresonated mid sec, stock gutted muffler (Sporty, civilized)
I, and many other guys run these engines super hard on the tracks, a lot of us with stock radiators/water pumps and without mechanical or electric fans as backup. Haven't seen overheating or head gasket issues. I'm not saying they don't happen, I have heard and read of many head gasket issues from Europe and m3cutters, but in US I have not. Most of the track guys worry about rod bearings spinning or vanos failing, but that's about it. Cooling system is not as fragile as m54 where the expansion tank is attached to the radiator and goes through many heat cycles and cracks eventually. These are awesome engines, but you do have to do some things preventatively.
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With the right owner (true TLC), I'm sure a very well kept stock S54 does great.. I was not allotted the luxury, having bought mine at 100k on the motor already without previously knowing what all was done to it (but at a cheap price). Thus, I must, for peace of mind, proactively refresh/replace or rebuild on every major area. Sucks for sure, but we all know it's more than worth the blood sweat and tears. I guarantee mine was due to the fact the previous owners did not flush the coolant, power steering, oil, etc. on healthy intervals whatsoever.. I've saved her and now she's in good hands
Congratulations on being an official owner of such a wonderful work of engineering, but be ready for a WILD ride! Here to help in any way I can, just as others have done so much for me also
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Sincerest of apologies also, don't want to sound like a know it all, just trying to point out a fact; BMW did not torque plate the block out of the factory. As you reach high mileage, be ready for what ever may come is all I'm saying. Anything can happen, even if one believes its not a commonality; it CAN and WILL happen to you! It happened to mine apparently and even with MLS!
2004 BMW e46 ///M3 S54 3.2L I6 NA ~360BHP RTD-6SM | Fully-rebuilt motor (forged lightweight rods & FSR pistons + rebalanced crank) & suspension, Conforti shark injector tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, Megan Racing catless SS headers (ceramic coated) + Status Gruppe sec 1 rasp elim + sec 2 un-resonated X-pipe + DNA motoring muffler (LOUD)
2013 BMW e82 135i ///M-Sport N55 3.0L I6 Twin-scroll Turbo ~380BHP DCT | MHD Stage 2+ tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, free-flow/catless down-pipe + unresonated mid sec + straight piped rear w/ titanium quad burnt tips (LOUD)
2012 VW GTI Mk6 2.0TSI EA888 2.0L I4 Turbo ~250BHP 6SM | Stratified tune, IE intake, hi-flow cat/downpipe, unresonated mid sec, stock gutted muffler (Sporty, civilized)
Totally cool, appreciate the insight. I spend A LOT of time on m3forum.net and with m3 guys, no one mentions this from what I know. A lot of them run track cars north of 150k miles and just do bearings, or spin them and get other used engines, haha.
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If you like your kidneys, then stick with the 18's.
I am currently running Michelins Pilot sport 4, and they are super sticky. Now you can get the 4S, but they tend to cost more, just be sure to shop around as well as checking your local tire shop. If you want to bump up the sizes, you can run these on the stock rims:
245/40 R-18
265/40 R-18
As for the bearing, get the oil changed, and have a sample send to Blackstone labs. They can tell you if it is time to do the bearings, and also let you know how healthy the motor is on the inside.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
By all means do so, but just keep in mind.. I would divert all funds once you have the car acquired to the most vital, important stuff right off the bat. To me, rebuilding the VANOS should come absolutely first along with a proper engine flush and oil change; even if you're at 10,000 miles.. I pulled my replaced OEM upper chain guide after just ~10k mileage since the rebuild.. you could already see the wear the timing chain was leaving on the weak spot on that OE design! Not to mention, who knows how long Buna rubber seals actually last; and you've GOT to check & replace the cam hub and sprocket bolts to the upgraded design, along with the oil pump disk with Beisan System's modified version asap. You obviously won't need to worry about the head gasket or bearings yet, but I'd start protecting these areas ASAP. Upgrade the OEM cooling system to Mishimoto if you want absolute peace of mind; flush the coolant / bleed the system on regular intervals at the bare minimum. I'd upgrade your water pump down the road to a metal impeller also.
I highly recommend Liquimoly's engine flush right before draining the old oil, then their GT1 Synthoil Race Tech + their Ceratec friction modifier to protect the rod bearings. I spent money in areas I shouldn't have prior to taking care of the weak spots upon getting my M3; I'm regretting having to spend buttloads of money at this point getting it all done in one major sweep now that the head is pulled, although bright side is tons of room to get everything done that I need, including the starter bolts by the rear coolant hoses! What a PITA.
2004 BMW e46 ///M3 S54 3.2L I6 NA ~360BHP RTD-6SM | Fully-rebuilt motor (forged lightweight rods & FSR pistons + rebalanced crank) & suspension, Conforti shark injector tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, Megan Racing catless SS headers (ceramic coated) + Status Gruppe sec 1 rasp elim + sec 2 un-resonated X-pipe + DNA motoring muffler (LOUD)
2013 BMW e82 135i ///M-Sport N55 3.0L I6 Twin-scroll Turbo ~380BHP DCT | MHD Stage 2+ tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, free-flow/catless down-pipe + unresonated mid sec + straight piped rear w/ titanium quad burnt tips (LOUD)
2012 VW GTI Mk6 2.0TSI EA888 2.0L I4 Turbo ~250BHP 6SM | Stratified tune, IE intake, hi-flow cat/downpipe, unresonated mid sec, stock gutted muffler (Sporty, civilized)
lol right on.. I hope to be one of the regular track goers here real soon.. just need to relocate the damn SMG pump or pull it, convert bell housing etc for 6SM and call it a day! But... sadly... first the top end, then bottom with new rod bearings, ARP on the main line & rod caps, maybe even do new Pistons + rings if I feel the block needs work. Lot yet to do, but how very exciting! Always something to look forward to with this car
2004 BMW e46 ///M3 S54 3.2L I6 NA ~360BHP RTD-6SM | Fully-rebuilt motor (forged lightweight rods & FSR pistons + rebalanced crank) & suspension, Conforti shark injector tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, Megan Racing catless SS headers (ceramic coated) + Status Gruppe sec 1 rasp elim + sec 2 un-resonated X-pipe + DNA motoring muffler (LOUD)
2013 BMW e82 135i ///M-Sport N55 3.0L I6 Twin-scroll Turbo ~380BHP DCT | MHD Stage 2+ tune, aFe Stage 2 intake, free-flow/catless down-pipe + unresonated mid sec + straight piped rear w/ titanium quad burnt tips (LOUD)
2012 VW GTI Mk6 2.0TSI EA888 2.0L I4 Turbo ~250BHP 6SM | Stratified tune, IE intake, hi-flow cat/downpipe, unresonated mid sec, stock gutted muffler (Sporty, civilized)
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