Another E39 Trans Failsafe Mode problem

[DGMii]

Hello Bimmerforumites,

I just recently purchased a 1998 540i for really cheap that has transmission issues. I know there are a lot of posts on this, and I have read quite a few of them, hopefully I’m posting this in the right place and no one minds another thread on this problem.

I purchased my vehicle from someone on craigslist who didn’t know much about the vehicle or at least wasn’t very forthcoming with information if he did know about it. It has been in transmission failsafe mode since I got it two weeks ago. I really wanted the 540i and I’ve fallen in love with the M62 engine. I was pretty confident I could diagnose any problem it had and find the procedures to fix any issues. (I went to MMI for BMW motorcycles and Harley Davidson so I have some experience with German engineering and V-engines.)

After reading some posts and doing some cheap diagnosis I’ve come to the conclusion it is the A Clutch Hub in the transmission. I’ve ordered a new “improved” clutch hub that is supposedly thicker around where the snap ring goes to prevent this problem. I’ve also read that this happens not only because of the thin metal in the clutch hub but also because of pressure regulation issues. I also purchased this updated pressure regulator and will install it while I am taking apart the trans. (The update to this seems to just be o-rings to help seal the orifice and keep metal on metal contact from damaging it further.)

Thank you for any and all help and advice moving forward. If there are any other parts you think I should rebuild or upgrade to get this tranny running smoothly I would greatly appreciate some guidance! The parts are in the mail and I should be able to start this soon. I’m guessing I will need some gasket and seal kits as well a new snap ring or two.

Symptoms:
Engine runs fine, starts right up, no codes thrown if erased. Reverse is fine and working properly. Once put into drive transmission stalls and a chime comes on with the led display reading “Trans Failsafe Mode”. Goes into and stays in fourth gear, throws codes.

Diagnosis:
I use Bluedriver OBDii reader. It’s an amazing little device for 99 bucks. Any advice on bmw specific diog tool would be great (I only use Mac, but I guess I could invest in a cheap PC if there is no iOS software.) Anyway, codes thrown were P0720 and P0731. Output Shaft Speed Sensor circuit and Gear 1 incorrect ratio respectively. Check all visible connections on undercarriage, everything seems fine.

Just with those codes it seems like mechanical issues, but I figured I’d do more research.

Read that it could be electrical issues. Take it to O’Reilly to do a battery and charging system check. Batt and alt are fine, regulator is bad.

I ordered a new regulator, pulled the old one and replaced the bad one (also I took off the exhaust for the alternator and made a little metal filter right on the exhaust port using a fine mesh food strainer and a hose clamp, I feel like it will work better to keep leaves out of there, which I found when I took it apart, and won’t be blowing brake dust in that direction.) Took it back to O’Reilly everything passed this time. No change in the issue. Still throwing same codes.

Hypothesis:
A Clutch Hub in the transmission is damaged and needs replacement. Pressure regulator possibly not working properly and should be replaced.

Hopefully my hypothesis is correct and I can get away with rebuilding this trans for cheap and sweat equity.

DGMii

[DGMii]

I forgot to mention I got the oil changed in my engine, rear diff and transmission. No change.

Also, I bought the new A Clutch Hub for 100, the new pressure regulator valve for 40, and I found a performance rebuild kit with all the seals, rings, gaskets and friction plates for 300 I’m thinking about getting. So, $440 (minus the new fluid that costs about $40) is much less than any used trans I found and I’d probably have to do work on those too. Although I will have to rent a lift somewhere here in LA unless I have a friend that’s hiding one somewhere. All this and I’m probably eventually just going to change it over to the manual six speed anyway.

[ross1]

I forgot to mention I got the oil changed in my engine, rear diff and transmission. No change.

Also, I bought the new A Clutch Hub for 100, the new pressure regulator valve for 40, and I found a performance rebuild kit with all the seals, rings, gaskets and friction plates for 300 I’m thinking about getting. So, $440 (minus the new fluid that costs about $40) is much less than any used trans I found and I’d probably have to do work on those too. Although I will have to rent a lift somewhere here in LA unless I have a friend that’s hiding one somewhere. All this and I’m probably eventually just going to change it over to the manual six speed anyway.

This is a no brainer if you ask me. No way I'd go through all the labor to R&R and bust this thing open and not refresh it.

[Chedley]

Hello Bimmerforumites,
…..

Diagnosis:
I use Bluedriver OBDii reader. It’s an amazing little device for 99 bucks. Any advice on bmw specific diog tool would be great (I only use Mac, but I guess I could invest in a cheap PC if there is no iOS software.)
…..
Hypothesis:
A Clutch Hub in the transmission is damaged and needs replacement. Pressure regulator possibly not working properly and should be replaced.
…...
DGMii

For the BMW specific diagnostics tool, I recommend INPA on a Windows laptop.
(Hardware: buy a used WindowsXP or Windows-7 laptop, and an INPA K+DCAN cable. Software: INPA is free)

For the transmission issues, and possible other issues you diagnose : First, make sure your battery/alternator/regulator are in top shape , and the battery is fully charged, before jumping to hypothesis and conclusions.

[wagons ho]

If you just want to slam that thing together, once the trans is pulled, you can change the A drum by standing on end with fluid and valve body in place.
Common failure, so if the miles aren't excessive and it previously worked well, save the time and effort on a core.
Sometimes the quick fix is best.

[DGMii]

This is a no brainer if you ask me. No way I'd go through all the labor to R&R and bust this thing open and not refresh it.

Totally agree. Not sure why I was even “thinking” about it. I ordered everything mentioned, along with a new oe trans filter and pan gasket.

- - - Updated - - -

For the BMW specific diagnostics tool, I recommend INPA on a Windows laptop.
(Hardware: buy a used WindowsXP or Windows-7 laptop, and an INPA K+DCAN cable. Software: INPA is free)

For the transmission issues, and possible other issues you diagnose : First, make sure your battery/alternator/regulator are in top shape , and the battery is fully charged, before jumping to hypothesis and conclusions.

Thanks! I looked into some INPA chords and ordered one. I know I can run windows through my Mac laptop, but I’ve heard just getting a windows computer specific to diagnosis might be beneficial.

Unless the tool at O’Reilly and my multimeter are off the charging system and battery checks out after I replaced the regulator.

[Chedley]

….
Thanks! I looked into some INPA chords and ordered one. I know I can run windows through my Mac laptop, but I’ve heard just getting a windows computer specific to diagnosis might be beneficial.
….

A brief tip: do NOT try to run INPA on a Mac or any other than native Windows OS. You will be asking for more trouble than it is worth, and it just does not work.
Let us know how it works out to solve your tranny problems.

[Rusting]

I run INPA on a MacBook Pro using VirtualBox to emulate a Win Xp machine. Works great, and much better than the times I tried to run it on Win 7 or Win 10.

[kouks]

Here's my 5hp24 rebuild from 2013 for reference. Talks about building some of the special tools needed, BUT, you will need access to a press

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ighlight=5hp24

[Chedley]

I run INPA on a MacBook Pro using VirtualBox to emulate a Win Xp machine. Works great, and much better than the times I tried to run it on Win 7 or Win 10.

Would you mind specify which version of INPA do you run on your MacBook ? I never managed to run it on any OS other than Windows-XP or Windows-7 (32 bits).

[DGMii]

Here's my 5hp24 rebuild from 2013 for reference. Talks about building some of the special tools needed, BUT, you will need access to a press

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ighlight=5hp24

Wow, what a beast of a thread! I actually started reading it before I posted this thread. I just finished it and man is there a lot of good info in there. Thanks so much, Kouks! You still have that vehicle?

I’ve been reading up on the service manual and watching Gary Ferraro on YouTube in preparation for the procedure. I plan on taking this vehicle to Gearheads in Oceanside next week and hopefully knocking it all out in an eight hour span or so. I never served in the military so I’m pretty sure I don’t have access to the one on base. I’ll keep you posted!

- - - Updated - - -

Would you mind specify which version of INPA do you run on your MacBook ? I never managed to run it on any OS other than Windows-XP or Windows-7 (32 bits).

Virtual box allows you to run Windows OS on a Mac. This is what I had read other places, and since my old photo laptop is no longer used for editing I figured I’d just run virtual box and make it my diag machine.

[Rusting]

VirtualBox just emulates a computer. I've got it running a Windows XP, which runs INPA fine. So I run Win XP through VirtualBox on my Mac, and I run INPA on the WinXP machine.

Screenshot.jpg

[kouks]

Wow, what a beast of a thread! I actually started reading it before I posted this thread. I just finished it and man is there a lot of good info in there. Thanks so much, Kouks! You still have that vehicle?

I’ve been reading up on the service manual and watching Gary Ferraro on YouTube in preparation for the procedure. I plan on taking this vehicle to Gearheads in Oceanside next week and hopefully knocking it all out in an eight hour span or so. I never served in the military so I’m pretty sure I don’t have access to the one on base. I’ll keep you posted!
.

The trans was still working well on the 740iL after about 45,000 miles after the rebuild, but the engine at 211,000 total miles on the e38, swallowed the exhaust valve on the #4 cylinder which led to a cracked engine block. The car is still sitting in the driveway for about a year now, its turned into a parts car for the DINAN and I'll soon toss it to the JY.

If you have the correct tools you can do the rebuild in a weekend, but you need to know what you're doing. I took my time since I had no idea what I was up against.

[DGMii]

The trans was still working well on the 740iL after about 45,000 miles after the rebuild, but the engine at 211,000 total miles on the e38, swallowed the exhaust valve on the #4 cylinder which led to a cracked engine block. The car is still sitting in the driveway for about a year now, its turned into a parts car for the DINAN and I'll soon toss it to the JY.

If you have the correct tools you can do the rebuild in a weekend, but you need to know what you're doing. I took my time since I had no idea what I was up against.

Whoa! Is that a common problem? Did you have the M62 engine?

I fixed my car!!

It took about 20 hours total to get the transmission out, rebuild it, and reinstall. I’ll make a better post in a little while. I can post pictures now!

ATF smells. I need a shower.

[kouks]

Whoa! Is that a common problem? Did you have the M62 engine?

I fixed my car!!

It took about 20 hours total to get the transmission out, rebuild it, and reinstall. I’ll make a better post in a little while. I can post pictures now!

ATF smells. I need a shower.

ATF does stink, but unlike oil, it washes off quickly. Good job getting it done fast, all gears working well? Including 5th?

Not a common issue in the M62 engines, but about 20k miles prior, the head gasket on that side failed (also not a common issue on the M62). I did both sides and got it running again. My guess is the valves went through some heat/cool stress while the cylinder was taking in coolant and may have had a microscopic crack, until it finally failed 20k miles later. I also had an intermittent aux fan problem for a while so I'm guessing the engine was running hotter than normal, so that helped the exhaust temps go higher and damage the valves more. Machine shop checked the head afterwards since I was trying to rebuild it and only that cylinder needed a new exhaust valve and two valve guides, the others were fine. Put it all back together and it was swallowing a gallon of coolant just to go around the block a couple times, so called it a life for the engine. At 211k, it served well.