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Thread: Holy Moly Ver. 2.0: Replacing the Driveshaft Center Support bearing

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Holy Moly Ver. 2.0: Replacing the Driveshaft Center Support bearing

    While replacing or upgrading my shifter to a short shifter, I had a "while I'm in there moment" so decided to replace the center support bearing.

    Working on my driveway with the the car on jack stands a few inches from forehead.

    1) Remove the 4x17mm (M10) nuts holding the companion flange of the drive shaft to the rear diff...do your best not to round them off as they are self-lockers. Requires an open ended wrench with a cheater bar, and in the process of removing them..a few of the nuts actually take a beating and now you have to re-order a new set from BMW (fortunately available for $1.20 each).

    2) While removing the above nuts don't let the wrench and the cheater bar fall on your forehead and make a bloody mess....too late. Take two (2) minutes to mop up the blood and catch your breath.

    3) Driveshaft is out.

    4) Mark the driveshaft clearly on both sides with a paint pen or grease pen as they are balanced together.

    5) Try to figure out how to separate the driveshaft halves, then realize there is some kind of threaded collar that is the "mechanical joint". That collar is so large even my largest 34mm open wrench doesn't fit, get a pipe wrench and cheater bar and still no budge. Ask my wife to come out and help, let her hold a pry bar with a cheater bar placed in the U-Joint to counter me as I try to loosen that collar with the pipe wrench. No luck..take another 2 minutes to mop up my bloody forehead, calm my wife down that I'm not going to die from major blood loss...realize its now 9pm and working in the dark on my driveway on a broken down Amazon cardboard box is no fun.

    6) Time to bring out the big guns...fire! Light up the Map Gas torch place it on that
    threaded collar for a few minutes until "stuff" starts oozing out of it...get it really nice and hot. Time to try the pipe wrench again with the cheater bar with the wife continuing to help..voila the collar starts moving slowly...victory. Wife goes into the house and says "good luck!" The collar is now beat to crap and fortunately you can get a new one for $12.

    7) Surprisingly, I still can't separate the driveshaft halves scratch my head..I don't have a big enough vice to place it in and "work it loose"....decide to use my 7lb sledge and hammer against the old center support bearing working in 360 degrees around the circumference, notice the splines are rusty and probably the reason why its stubborn. Slowly I see they are separating with the blows from the sledge...a few minutes later they are apart....

    8) Sit on my flattened Amazon cardboard box "chair" on the driveway in amazement of the last 2-hours.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    Chicago Illinois
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    My Cars
    2003.5 E46 M3, 1992 e34
    Why I don’t look forward to this job lol!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Kuna, Idaho
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    Too Many Cars (NOT!)
    Alternative to blood, aggravation and pissing off the wife.

    http://driveshaftspecialist.com/
    Mike Drives:
    BMW's
    E24 - 635CSiA - (1) 1985 (US)
    E24 - 635CSi - (1) 1985 (EC)
    E31 - 850iA - (1) 1991 (Black)
    E31 - 850iA - (1) 1991 (Calypso Red)

    E32 - 740iA - (1) 1994
    E32 - 750iA - (1) 1990 (Not an "L") (EC German National)
    E32 - 735iL - (2) 1990
    E32 - 750iL - (1) 1990

    E38 - 740iLA - (2) (1) 1997 & (1) 1998
    E38 - 750iLA - (1) 1998
    E38 - 740iA - (1) 2000 "Short Sport"
    E39 - 528iA - (2) - 2000 & (1) 1997
    Also:
    2015 Ram 3500 Dually, Cumins 6.7, Std.Cab. Long box 4x4 (To haul all this junk when necessary)
    2014 Dodge Dart Rallye (Daily Driver)
    2007 Mercedes Benz CL600 (Brabus SV12S)
    Mercedes Benz SL's - (1) (2002) & (1) 1999 500 - (1) 1999 600
    1967 Buick Riviera (2)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Napa, Ca
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    1,797
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    1987 M6
    Slide hammers are magical tools. Get yourself one. It would have made separating the halves WAY easier.

    My M6 has a driveshaft specialist part. Performs great, and good price. Although I recall they sent the wrong shaft the first time.

    Jose
    Last edited by DaHose; 04-24-2019 at 12:36 PM.
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    KS
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    e24e30e36e39e90
    Too late for you, but +1 on replacing the whole drive shaft. I went through the CSB/giubo replacement pain on my e39 540i, only to have the u-joint go out less than a year later, requiring a new drive shaft. All the CSB work for nothing. The problem is that if the CSB has gone bad, it's probably already caused damage to the u-joint before you may even know that the CSB is bad.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by sienayr View Post
    Too late for you, but +1 on replacing the whole drive shaft. I went through the CSB/giubo replacement pain on my e39 540i, only to have the u-joint go out less than a year later, requiring a new drive shaft. All the CSB work for nothing. The problem is that if the CSB has gone bad, it's probably already caused damage to the u-joint before you may even know that the CSB is bad.
    You didn't read my first post, there is nothing wrong my driveshaft, the CSB or the universal joints. I decided to change the CSB only as I had easier access to it due to the installation of a new short shifter.

  7. #7
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    e24e30e36e39e90
    Quote Originally Posted by slownrusty View Post
    You didn't read my first post, there is nothing wrong my driveshaft, the CSB or the universal joints. I decided to change the CSB only as I had easier access to it due to the installation of a new short shifter.
    Oh yeah probably ok then, I did the exact same thing on my e30 and it's been fine for several years. I just try to save people from the mistake I made whenever I can!

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