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Thread: Trying to resurrect a 318ic

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Trying to resurrect a 318ic

    Hey all,

    I'm new to this forum but used to be pretty active on the E43, E38 & E39 forums back in the day. Thanks to the generous folks on forums like this one I became a pretty good DIY'r.

    My reason for writing is, I have one BMW left. It's a 1996 318ic convertible manual. The challenge is, it's been sitting for 5 years. I decided to see if I could get the old girl to come back to life so I bought a new battery and it powered up. I don't have the time to mess with it so I decided to send it to a local BMW guru who specializes in older BMW's.

    Their analysis thus far is, it will crank but not start. They ran some diagnostics and the issue seems to be the ECU, DME or whatever you want to call it doesn't seem to be telling the fuel pump to start working. They checked the crank sensor and that's working. They have ruled out the relay as well.

    At this point they are thinking it's an issue with (as they called it) the ECU. It that's the culprit, they are talking over $2K! I know from past experiences there are most likely less expensive options so I thought I would beg y'all's indulgence and ask for suggestions and opinions.

    Any help would be MUCH appreciated

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Yes you can buy a used/secondary market ECU but it may need to be aligned with EWS module.

    http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/BMW_EWS.pdf


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Thank you. Looks beyond the comprehension level of my old pea brain!

    I did some research and found a source RPM that sells reconditioned or will reprogram your DME. Assuming they can match up my EWS ot I can buy a matching pair? (haven't calle dthem yet)

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Buy a used, good, dme off ebay, get the numbers from your current dme.

    You probably have bad gas that has gummed up your injectors and may be fuel rail.

    If the pump wasn't priming for 1second when the ignition was turned on then the cam sensor may be bad.

    - - - Updated - - -

    If you get another dme you will have to sync the system. Use a laptop and a programming cable with the free program EWSsync
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    Buy a used, good, dme off ebay, get the numbers from your current dme.

    You probably have bad gas that has gummed up your injectors and may be fuel rail.

    If the pump wasn't priming for 1second when the ignition was turned on then the cam sensor may be bad.

    - - - Updated - - -

    If you get another dme you will have to sync the system. Use a laptop and a programming cable with the free program EWSsync
    There is no fuel pressure at the fuel rail and the pump is not turning on. They also checked the crank sensor and that it is working.

    I spoke to a company RPM that will sell me a reconditioned DME programmed to my VIN. They said it would be "unlocked" so there should be no issues syncing with the EWS and key. Total cost delivered is $550 with a 1 year warranty.

    Looking at ebay, I can buy a used one for around $100. But I con't have the cable to reprogram. Is that difficult to obtain and figure out how to reprogram?

  6. #6
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    Or.. You could just buy a preprogrammed dme from ebay like any not moron would suggest. Certainly not rediculoues 2k. You dont need the vin programmed as dmv understand the needs of replacement parts unless ofcoarse you want to. You can probably ask whoever your buying the dme from to have the ews delete or programmed, considering anyone who sells dme programming on ebay most likely sells the units as well. however its probably the key and not the dme. (People just buy ews delete dme to fix the problem anyway). Which i would suggest trying first at the modest $80 to $125. You should be able to get a programmed dme for under $250 and install it yourself within 10 minutes.
    Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.

    HONK! HONK! Clown car coming through!

    -Oakdizzle

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyderg0d View Post
    Or.. You could just buy a preprogrammed dme from ebay like any not moron would suggest. Certainly not rediculoues 2k. You dont need the vin programmed as dmv understand the needs of replacement parts unless ofcoarse you want to. You can probably ask whoever your buying the dme from to have the ews delete or programmed, considering anyone who sells dme programming on ebay most likely sells the units as well. however its probably the key and not the dme. (People just buy ews delete dme to fix the problem anyway). Which i would suggest trying first at the modest $80 to $125. You should be able to get a programmed dme for under $250 and install it yourself within 10 minutes.
    OK, thank you for that. But could you walk me through what you dais?

    1. Are you saying mi issue might be the key and not he DME?
    2. Are you saying I can buy a pre-programmed DME on Ebay that would work vs a random used one that would have to them be programmed? Any suggestion who might offer this service?
    3. There s a "bypass" of the EWS that can be purchased that will solve my issue?

  8. #8
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    In your situation you either have to trust the shop, or do all the work yourself. And that work includes further diagnosis if your ecu fix doesn't do the job

    Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    THE PLOT THICKENS!

    First of all, thanks to all who have responded.

    I spoke to the shop today and they feel they have isolated the issue. It is NOT the DME. The problem is with the ignition switch. When you turn the key to position two, everything funtions. But whehn you turn it far enough to start the engine, one of the circuits that tells the DME to power up the fuel pump doesn't function.

    So they are saying a new ignition switch should solve the issue. To resolve that plus the fairly extensive diagnostics I'm in for $800 which I'm happy to pay.

    My issue is, it's still is going to need a fuel pump and they are quoting $900 for that. Having done one on my E38 myself, I'm having trouble agreeing to $900. I could just have it towed back home and replace the pump myself I guess.

    More to come...

  10. #10
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    Its the key chip in the key. Your mechanics are stupid. How would a ignition switch work to turn the starter but then not be working to not turn the fuel pump on?. Take it somewhere else. Order a new key through the dealer, be happy.
    Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.

    HONK! HONK! Clown car coming through!

    -Oakdizzle

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyderg0d View Post
    Order a new key through the dealer, be happy.
    Not everyone speaks BMW.
    Where is you key from? Is it a hardware store copy or a BMW key?

    http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/BMW_EWS.pdf


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    As far as I know, it's a BMW key. It has BMW stamped into it.

    That would be SWEET if that's all it is.

  13. #13
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    My key looks like either the 2nd or 4th from the left on the link provided by bluptgm3

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