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Thread: a/c not working in 2003 m3

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    a/c not working in 2003 m3

    Hi,

    The ac in my 03 m3 isn't working. I had it recharged last year and was working fine. Since summer is coming soon, my ac started to act strange. First, it would blow cold for about 10mins of driving, the hot air started to come from the vent. It will blow cold when I made a right turn then hot air when it's going straight. I pulled the code with inpa and got the following. I got the code aux water pump short circuit to ground. Anybody have any advice on what to do?

    25 Zusatzwasserpumpe
    Error frequency : 23
    Kurzschluss gegen Masse Fehler momentan vorhanden
    Errorcode: 19 42 17 30 4B B7 98 11 03 76

  2. #2
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    The "25" means an aux waterpump, but I haven't seen one on a E-46.

    Did you use a store style "Recharge"?

    So what I would do is see about getting the system evacuated, tested, leak dye added, and charged at a HVAC shop.
    Darin
    Current:
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    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
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  3. #3
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    The ac was recharged by a professional. Ok I will do that and see. Thanks

  4. #4
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    QUOTE=JCF076]Hey,

    You responded to my 281c and 281d post. I have another issue now with the 27ad BSD generator code popping out. [quote/]

    So what I would do is remove the large red wire, and check the post and eye for burnt marks, ect. When the nut gets loose, it can arc and drop the code.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  5. #5
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    Thanks dworthy, I'll take a look on the weekend

  6. #6
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    For the air conditioning sounds like the compressor is kicking on and off. Would consider visually checking the wires to start. If it blows cold air there is still a charge. If you can get it to stop while standing still you can use INPA to actuate the clutch helping isolate the HVAC controls. Could just need a new compressor- if you do that have all the o-rings replaced so it doesn’t slowly leak anymore

  7. #7
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    Finally got some time off work and replaced the aux water pump and hcv... the ac blew cold for a day and now the ac blows cool and warm air again. I used inpa to check the value, the pressure sensor is at 5.7 bar which is very low, and the set value shows -27.5... anybody can advice would be great.

  8. #8
    dworthy's Avatar
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    Can you get a high and low pressure reading from the service ports?

    Normally you should be looking at 200-250 psi on the high side, and about 30-45 on the low. It will cycle thru as the compressor kicks on of course.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  9. #9
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    I had a similar problem on my 2003 M3. I rebuilt the heater control valve (below the MAF) and the ac worked perfectly after that. The heater control valve was so corroded it was stuck open. $30 dollars and 30 mins of my time fixed the issue.

    - Steve
    -'98 M3 Coupe
    -'03 M3 Coupe
    -'83 911 Coupe
    -'05 911 Coupe

  10. #10
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    Good catch...it wasn't the AC...the heater can overpower the AC

    Quote Originally Posted by merlinfe View Post
    I had a similar problem on my 2003 M3. I rebuilt the heater control valve (below the MAF) and the ac worked perfectly after that. The heater control valve was so corroded it was stuck open. $30 dollars and 30 mins of my time fixed the issue.

    - Steve
    But interestingly it can only do it when the engine is hot. The diagnosis is that the AC works when the engine is first started but goes away when the engine warms up.

    And BTW, I hate to say how may dang heater control valves I've replaced on Saabs since 1984 (sold my last one in 2008, 87 900T with about 340hp...). Chevy's etc....most of the time it's coolant issues causing corrosion but its often just darn poor designs that don't hold up to underhood heat.
    Last edited by SloopJohnB; 12-03-2019 at 09:00 PM.

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