Car is a '97 M3.
Looking for some help or insight with the strangest steering wheel wobble issue I've encountered because I'm out of ideas and would rather troubleshoot than throw money at it.
The steering wheel SOMETIMES has a slight shake/shimmy/oscillation when around highway speeds (60-80mph). To make things harder to figure out, it'll randomly go away on it's own whenever I go through a wide turn in the road or sometimes after a slight bump or dip in the road.
The car does this with multiple sets of wheels and tires, both balanced more than once and each rotated multiple times as well. Besides, if it was the wheels it would be more consistent. And yes, I do have hub centric rings one on set of wheels and two other sets that don't need hub rings (Original and D-Force set).
The only thing left I can think of being related that I haven't changed is the steering rack and pump. However, the pump isn't making any weird sounds or lose pressure, and steering rack seals are fine, the boots aren't wet or filled with fluid.
The reason I'm thinking it COULD be the rack is because when I first had the car it had a really bad tie-rod. It sounded like a maraca when I shook it (extremely loose). Perhaps the vibrations from that which were bad enough to shake the steering wheel violently mid-turns could have damaged the internals of the rack? I don't know how long it was like that as I bought the car with that problem already.
Here's what I've changed so far in the past few years I've owned the car (all new). Mind you, the problem existed before all this and still does. These things weren't changed for this problem, but I figure they're worth noting to get out of the way:
OE Hubs
Lemforder Ball Joints
Koni Shocks w/Eibach springs for a couple years
Lemforder End Links (when I had Konis)
TC Kline Camber plates (when I had Konis)
KW V3 coilovers (on now)
Meyle HD End Links (now with KW Coils)
Vorshlag Camber plates (on now with KW Coils)
Lemforder Inner & Outer Tie Rods
AKG 95A Poly Lower Control Arm Bushings
OE Steering Coupler
I'd appreciate any help. Thanks everyone!
Try checking front brake calipers. My sons 99 m3 would shake after driving for roughly about 15 to 20 mins, then just stop shaking on its own at random. Got out once and felt the front wheel on driver side and it was really hot to the touch. Figured the Caliper was sticking so I pulled it apart, greased the Piston and guide pins and have never had a problem since. Good luck.
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Last edited by lborrorjr; 04-28-2019 at 11:10 PM.
Thought the rotor could be warped also after sticking so long and being so hot but not a single shake driving or stopping since re greasing.
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Last edited by lborrorjr; 04-28-2019 at 11:12 PM.
By “OE Hubs” do you mean Front Wheel Bearings/Hub Assembly from BMW or SKF or FAG…or other brand.
Sticky caliper? Out of true rotor?
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You guys are making me very excited for it to be a caliper. Certainly much cheaper than a steering rack.
Another vote to check for sticky front caliper(s). Could be as simple as a stuck slider pin or might be time to rebuild the calipers (which is easy and cheap). If pads are dragging and getting super hot you could be getting uneven deposits on the rotor. You might be able to see uneven deposits if it's occurring.
I think I responded to you on facebook....I have the same issue that is so intermittent, I figure it really is flatspotting on the tires, but I doubt it. I am pretty sure, after new wheels/tires, countless balances, new hubs, new rotors (STOPTECH BBK), refurbished calipers, GC refurbished front struts, all new bearings, control arms, tie rods, sway bar end links, bushings, steering guibo, I PRAY that it is my steering rack. I'm replacing it hopefully this weekend with a ZHP rack AND new lower steering assembly.....I've had this problem since I can remember. I don't know if it ever went away (I'm sure it did) but I have 154k miles on my rack and every other component has been replaced.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
I changed my plan of attack slightly.
In order to minimize variables I put the same wheels back on that I took off tonight. Pulled both sets of sliders out and they were bone dry, no lube. I'm fact they had a bit of crud stuck to them. Took them both to bench grinder and hit them with the wire wheel to clean them up. Also sprayed brake cleaner into the caliper's rubber boots that hold the slider and scrubbed them real good with a rat tail brush. Re-lubed the sliders and inside of the boots with Sil-Glyde, then put it all back together.
I'm hoping I didn't just get lucky with respect to the issue being intermittent but I just went for about a 20-30 minute drive in a smooth but curvy road where I know the issue presents itself and didn't get any shake. I don't want to get too happy though since I wasn't able to really get the car above 70-75mph because it's raining. I'll test drive it some more tomorrow and report back.
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Last edited by LockDots; 04-22-2019 at 11:56 PM.
Ya, dry/dirty sliders were causing/acting like sticking caliper.
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I've always used ATE 700014 Plastilube or my old bottle of Sil-Glyde on my caliper guides. Just a thin coat should do just fine. I'm sure copper grease would work just fine as well.
When doing my E92 brakes, I noticed that the Bentley said NOT to lube the guide bushings which seemed odd, but I followed their recommendation and haven't had any sticking calipers or issues.
LockDots, you should consider getting new caliper guide bushings. They are super cheap and well worth changing since you're already there. The initial brake bite will feel better, and the wear pattern on the rotor and pad will improve.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...it-34111157038
34216869617
Last edited by Hova; 04-24-2019 at 04:43 PM.
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
Pretty sure the Bentley said the same thing about the E36 brakes, which if true seems super odd.
I didn't get a chance to take the car out the other night but I'm taking it to work tomorrow so we'll see how it behaves. I plan on getting the calipers Cerakoted at the end of the season and rebuilding them myself, so I'm going to hold off on caliper parts for now. I'll report back tomorrow. Hopefully with good news.
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
Thanks man. Steering wheel felt completely fine all the way to work today. There's SOME vibration in the wheel but it's not the same oscillation I'm chasing down. This vibration I think has more to do with my suspension/alignment/bushings (poly LCAB) because it's very minor and very consistent - never goes away or gets wild.
Hopefully it keeps behaving on my way home. If it stays this way for a week, I'll be a happy man and call it an issue solved.
I'm sending my calipers to a buddy of mine who does this for a living. Can't decide if I want to go with silver or black.
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