Pilot bearing redactions.

[FiberFast]

I made several comments about 325 and 328 pilot bearings not being the same. I am full of shit, they are exactly the same with a pair of micrometers and I was able to jam the 328 alignment tool into the 325 pilot bearing eventually, it just took more force than expected. I have been wrong before and just wanted to clarify this.
This does leave me in a bit of a quandary. I have installed a new valeo single mass conversion/clutch and we will see what that does (Hopefully its a blunder fix) Otherwise I am in the dark... The Luk dual mass I removed is in perfect condition (Its new) the Sachs disc looks barely worn as with the pressure plate (Also new). I will try another slave cylinder if this doesn't work and take it to a shop to have the entire hydraulic system vacuumed, tested and filled. Other than that its all I got... Anyone else know of any other reason why a clutch would not fully disengage? I am at the end of my wits here and I am not an idiot.

[pbonsalb]

Disk backwards?

[FiberFast]

Disk backwards?

Nope, and the new one says "This side towards gearbox" and I could still see those words when the pressure plate went on. Now the guide bushing, it is pretty sloppy. So I ordered a repair kit and I will see if that helps. Its got to be... Man I have looked this up one side and down the other.

[pbonsalb]

I’d try bleeding the slave. Pull it out from trans but still connected to hose, turn it so bleed is up, open bleed, depress piston, close bleed and repeat several times. Make sure brake reservoir does not run low or you will suck air in.

[FiberFast]

I’d try bleeding the slave. Pull it out from trans but still connected to hose, turn it so bleed is up, open bleed, depress piston, close bleed and repeat several times. Make sure brake reservoir does not run low or you will suck air in.

It appears to be functioning properly. I am waiting on the guide bushing repair sleeve (Hope it works?) So I should have that by Tuesday. And probably by Wednesday we will find out what exactly is going on.
To recap;
Problem: Clutch does not fully disengage, making gear shifts (Like going into first) real nasty. Two different good transmissions tried and it did work properly for about two hours before going back to its fucked state. (Could be hydraulic?)
What I had replaced:

Clutch: Originally replaced with new LUK dual mass and Sachs performance disc and pressure plate and Sachs throwout bearing.
Slave: Replaced with a new unit and also tested two others all with similar results. I have a custom machined brass tip on it right now.
Pivot pin: replaced with a brass unit.
Shift fork: New
Hydraulic lines: replaced with ECS stainless kit.
Master cylinder: replaced with OE unit.
Removed pedal stop.

The problem persisted after all of this and many many bleeding and fucking with's. I have had the transmission out of the car seven (7) times now I frankly I would really like to fix this fucking thing. I wont take it to a shop either, its got to be me, I have to figure this out.

So now, I put in a new pilot bearing and valeo single mass conversion and and clutch kit with the matching throw-out bearing. The guide bush (The tube the throw-out bearing rides on) is a bit worn and sloppy so I ordered the repair kit. The idea is to fix it and I have replaced everything else. I hope this fixes it but I am preparing for how I am going to handle this if it doesn't work. Then I am also preparing for a possible cracked cylinder head and trying to limp through smog with that then build a new head (Have a spare) and use the 3L 86mm crankshaft to build a slightly tall 86mmx84mm turbo motor. I would have loved to supercharge but I cant justify the price of doing it right when I can get a zippy poofer working for around 3K, and just a twin screw unit costs that much.

[pbonsalb]

That must be frustrating. I once had the clutch out 3 or 4 times within a couple of months due to fusing the disk to the flywheel at the dragstrip. Had to go full ceramic.

Are you mixing and matching any parts? Like running Getrag linkage with ZF trans? People have installed the selector shaft upside down and had clearance issues to the guibo. I once tried a -4 line to the slave and it was too big and caused issues that went away with a correctly sized aftermarket line. Strange it shifted fine for a couple of hours at one point.

Turbo E36 is a lot of fun. Did mine in 2010 and still find it entertaining.

[FiberFast]

That must be frustrating. I once had the clutch out 3 or 4 times within a couple of months due to fusing the disk to the flywheel at the dragstrip. Had to go full ceramic.

Are you mixing and matching any parts? Like running Getrag linkage with ZF trans? People have installed the selector shaft upside down and had clearance issues to the guibo. I once tried a -4 line to the slave and it was too big and caused issues that went away with a correctly sized aftermarket line. Strange it shifted fine for a couple of hours at one point.

Turbo E36 is a lot of fun. Did mine in 2010 and still find it entertaining.

Right, So I have two G250's. They have different selectors/strokes and I believe I have narrowed it down to the G250 that came from the silver car had a short shift kit on it. (Which I still have) I am reluctant to use it with all the issues, so the silver car g250 is a spare atm (Might sell it) anyhow I am using the original working G250 that came in my car with associated linkage. I have looked that the bushings, the tube bushing is a little sloppy (The part you stick the shift armature alignment pin into) but the linkage to trans bushing looks ok. Maybe I need to think about these bushings. I have replaced the plastic washers and shift lever bushing (Little white clippy thing) with new bits as well.

[pbonsalb]

Linkage bushings, selector shaft coupler if the little Getrag has one, guide tube for the throw out bearing if the Getrag has one. I don’t know the Getrag issues well. I helped swap one to a ZF320 once. If you are going turbo, look into it because the Getrags can’t handle nearly as much power as the ZF. Most 325i turbo owners run ZF.

[FiberFast]

Linkage bushings, selector shaft coupler if the little Getrag has one, guide tube for the throw out bearing if the Getrag has one. I don’t know the Getrag issues well. I helped swap one to a ZF320 once. If you are going turbo, look into it because the Getrags can’t handle nearly as much power as the ZF. Most 325i turbo owners run ZF.

Yea I heard that. I would like to do a 6 Speed conversion in the future, but I need to be realistic about budget and I have two G250 transmissions. I think I am going to shoot for 300-400whp. Anywhere in there is fine, I am looking for more response than anything, I dont want to wait more that 3k rpm to hit boost so thats probably going to be a disco potato or something.

[ross1]

ASSUMING the hydraulics have been bled, the clutch is installed correctly, the fork is on the (new)pivot pin and the clutch combination is compatible about the only thing left is the clutch master cyl.
This can leak internally(the slave cannot)so you'll have no visual clue that its tired. Me thinks this is your trouble.
There are instances of the disc hanging up on the input shaft, usually after cars have been idle for an extended period. Seems yours has been apart several times and you would have noticed this.

[spyderg0d]

You didnt install the throw out bearing the right orientation. Its supposed to sit out,not in the throw arm. It being wrong results in the clutch not being depressed entirely when the slave is fully extended,. That or the trans pivot pin os broke or gone.

[FiberFast]

Its fixed. It was the pilot bearing I think, but to be 100% sure I replaced the entire clutch/flywheel assembly. All the items mentioned have been replaced with new components already, master, slave, fork, pivot pin, everything. This was a long battle, from what I can see the "Made in China" pilot bearing that was extracted had failed. Maybe I will use the sachs pressure plate on my single mass later. I was considering building my own clutch disc as well, using the valeo style internally sprung disc (Harder springs) and a carbon kevlar material like clutch masters uses. Should not be all that hard if you have a plate and punch.