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Thread: DSTX17's 97 M3/4/5 turbo build

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    houston
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    2017 F150, 97 M3
    Some unfortunate new for myself...

    I was test shifting the transmission a couple days ago and I couldn't easily move the shifter to the left of center. It took extreme amount of force to go left in order to access 1st/reverse/second. I couldn't access all gears either. I screwed something up when I scored the walls of one of the detent bores when I changed those. So today I acquired another ZF out of an e39 528I with 120k on it. I also have another detent kit on the way. This trans however has a little bit more play in the selector rod shaft and also needs the selector rod shaft seal (on the way). I'd say its just more than 1/4" of front to back play, old damaged trans is tighter. In a facebook group I'm part of, one member said that there is a a pin with a bearing on it in one of the detent bores next to reverse/5th that needs to be changed to fix this. Any experience with this? Can't find any parts available other than detent kits, but I do have my old trans available to take parts off of if necessary.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    houston
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    183
    My Cars
    2017 F150, 97 M3
    I think I answered my own questions. Appears the guy was referring to this part: BMW-23311224823

    anyone heard of these going bad? When I noticed besides having excess play, is it also goes from in gear, back to neutral with VERY little effort. Wonder if it could also be the spring behind it.
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  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    houston
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    2017 F150, 97 M3
    successfully removed the seized locking pin/pin bearing. Nothing actually looks wrong with it, but one gentlemen has told me I need to remove a small amount of bushing material that the locking pin slides through so that it slides freely. With this part out, and moving the selector rod shaft back and forth, you can clearly tell that this is the part that is supposed to make it tighter and "lock" it in gear. Going to figure out a way to use some sand paper and open up the bushing tolerance just slightly, then get this back together. Very surprised there isn't more information on this, but totally makes sense to do while its out for detents.
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  4. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    houston
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    2017 F150, 97 M3
    New (120k mile used) ZF is installed and shifting correctly while on jack stands. I did put a new detent kit in this one as well and it went smoothly this time around. I got the waste gate and dump tube installed, those bolts holding the waste gate to the manifold are real tough to get at. I completed the wiring with the exception of a few connections that need to be made once the fuel rail is installed.

    Can someone verify the connections in the pictures I took of the hot block and strut tower grounds are correct? I believe that unused connector is for SAP? If so my SAP is deleted, should I remove that SAP ground?

    Also, as you can see I have epoxied close the CCV location. I also cut off the two small nipples and epoxied those shut. I will retap the manifold on top with a barbed fitting more suitable for boost. Where the ICV connects to the manifold, do I need epoxy here? The ICV is held onto the manifold with a bracket, so I would think that would prevent it from getting blown out but if it needs epoxy I just need to now where. Most info on this seems to be towards the M50 manifold.
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  5. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Peoria, AZ
    Posts
    7,696
    My Cars
    03 zhp, 97 e36m3, 04 zhp
    I never knew that early e39 trans will bolt right up!

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    houston
    Posts
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    My Cars
    2017 F150, 97 M3
    Yes I just researched on wikipedia and found a lengthy list of all the cars that used that transmission. The thing is, on car-part.com it doesn't cross reference all those cars for you. So if you can't find the ZF when searching for an e36, its worth trying for a 330 e46 (5 spd), e39 (even 530s used them).

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Peoria, AZ
    Posts
    7,696
    My Cars
    03 zhp, 97 e36m3, 04 zhp
    Quote Originally Posted by DSTX17 View Post
    Yes I just researched on wikipedia and found a lengthy list of all the cars that used that transmission. The thing is, on car-part.com it doesn't cross reference all those cars for you. So if you can't find the ZF when searching for an e36, its worth trying for a 330 e46 (5 spd), e39 (even 530s used them).
    Great to know - thank you!

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    houston
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    2017 F150, 97 M3
    I need to torque my crank bolt soon (replaced w/new oem) and not sure if my FX racing stage 3 clutch has a flywheel pin hole. Can I Just put the car in gear with the rear tires on the ground and use the trans/diff/tires to brace and hold the engine from turning over?

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Silver Spring, Maryland
    Posts
    176
    My Cars
    1990 325i
    Quote Originally Posted by DSTX17 View Post
    I need to torque my crank bolt soon (replaced w/new oem) and not sure if my FX racing stage 3 clutch has a flywheel pin hole. Can I Just put the car in gear with the rear tires on the ground and use the trans/diff/tires to brace and hold the engine from turning over?
    Are you suppose to re-torque OEM main caps bolts after you stretch the bolts to BMW spec following the TIS?

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Crystal Lake, IL
    Posts
    99
    My Cars
    1996 BMW 328i Sedan
    Quote Originally Posted by DSTX17 View Post
    I need to torque my crank bolt soon (replaced w/new oem) and not sure if my FX racing stage 3 clutch has a flywheel pin hole. Can I Just put the car in gear with the rear tires on the ground and use the trans/diff/tires to brace and hold the engine from turning over?
    No. You need to lock the crank pulley hub in place. I made a ring that bolts to the hub and then I welded a piece of angle iron to that. Then you wedge it under the frame rail, or against the ground I guess. There’s an actual tool floating around on the Internet somewhere but I made my own.

    Then, in order to apply 410 N/m of force, use a lever arm of about 1 m in length and drop, well, slowly drop about 42 kg on the lever. Watch one of Pazi88’s videos on YouTube, he explains it. Many thx to him.

    That crank bolt is a PITA though


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    houston
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    2017 F150, 97 M3
    I got the crank bolt tightened down. I was reinstalling the steering guibo and realized it was dry rotted/cracking so I ordered a new one and that came in the other day. I got that replaced, all steering lines back on. I reinstalled the intake manifold last night. Next step is installing the new fuel injectors and the oem fuel rail. On the fuel rail, how do I identify which connection is intake and which is return? How do you actually use the fuel line connectors, just push them on? Do you need to twist or press on the collar while pressing?

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    houston
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    2017 F150, 97 M3
    It has been a while since I have updated my thread, but I've still been keeping the progress going. I had to get a welder to install a second bung in the cx racing down pipe, weld the 22rpd maf flange on the intake pipe (which required an extra piece of 3" aluminum pipe and a 45 degree coupler), and get a vband flange welded on one end of the cxracing mid pipe. The car does run now! Last weekend I started the car for a minute and it was idling smooth, but when I got out and was checking for leaks I had a pretty good leak coming from the timing chain tensioner on the passenger side, so I ordered a new crush washer for that. All I have left to do for it to be drive ready is:

    Install wide band and boost gauge
    Install front bumper/wheel well liners/head lights
    bleed cooling system (not sure if this will even need much, seemed like all the air was pushed out as I was filling it with water/coolant)

    Full exhaust needs installed but I don't need that to take it for a ride.

    I ended up cracking my fuel pump housing last weekend when I dropped it trying to get the oem fuel pump out of it. I epoxied it and all seems good.
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  13. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    houston
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    2017 F150, 97 M3
    Today I replaced the primary timing chain tensioner crush washer and it still drips. I am thinking I need to put some permatex on that to get it to seal. I ran it for a few minutes again today revved it a bit. Still don't have an o2 sensor in, but I believe it mainly just runs off the tune with a small assistance of one other o2 sensor. The idle was fluctuating a good bit. I hear a hissing noise from what seems like beneath the intake manifold but I don't see what could be leaking. I epoxied all the factory holes down there and thoroughly inspected the icv hose. I guess I will take until I get the wide band installed this weekend. If I am idling around 14.7 then no leaks? Any other easy way to check for intake manifold leaks? From my research some say it could just be the sound of air going through the throttle body?

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    160
    My Cars
    1994 325is
    It is worth building yourself a boost leak tester. Can be done easily and cheaply with pvc pipe end and a compressor fitting, ball valve, etc.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    houston
    Posts
    183
    My Cars
    2017 F150, 97 M3
    exciting news...The car is driving great! I am running on the 10 psi spring and have already made a handful of WOT pulls. Will be trying to get a few videos in the coming days. I am going tomorrow to get the cx racing catback installed (needs some welding and I'm having a cat converter installed). The used transmission I installed shifts great and I really like the FXracing clutch, its engagement is definitely rougher than stock but totally manageable. I am having this issue with my wide band and boost gauges though....I installed a relay to power them, and am using the purple/black striped wire under the glove box as the trigger to the relay (comes on when accessories are turned on). However, sometimes it just loses power, and its not like flickering loss of power its completely gone for a few hours. I originally had the gauges wired up without a wide band and it worked fine for a while. After it quit I went the relay route and same deal, it worked for a while and then quit. Today I unraveled all the wiring and was using the multi meter and it started working again. What should I check?

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