Hacked up Turbo S50 Vert thread

[acbx]

Hi guys, thought i'd post about my build. I've gone through various phases. Went from s/c to rear mount turbo to top mount. About last year I purchased a daily (CLK320 and now E55 AMG) and I was able to focus on trying to get this car dialed in... whatever that means. I just felt like i never used it to its full potential, you know?
Here's the run down
Originally a 95 325ic
Condor mounts
S50 swap w/ .140 MLS & arp headbolts, otherwise stock
ZF with FX Stage 4 clutch and ltw flywheel (i blew second gear on the getrag second day of 10psi)
2.93 Welded diff
CliqTuning hard mounted shifter
CXRacing top mount, Nagasaki GT35 choo choo, ebay WG and 3" downpipe and exhaust
NickG OBD1 Tune and blow thru maf, 42lb injectors.
No Bov for maximum tsu tsus
used intercooler
Walbro 255
Pics of said car with its old wrap:
Untitled1.pngUntitled2.jpg

I had it dynoed last year, and it had a major boost leak. Only made 440WTQ at 18psi and 350whp (it would spike to 18 then to 13-14). I was pretty disappointed with my numbers.. and then a couple of months ago my car was getting lean on boost. So I plan on fixing all that. So far since then I've done:
NGK4664 at .18
Replace Post IC piping with 3" (had 2.5 before, thought maybe it could cause turbulence
JB Weld ICV fitting into Intake manifold, new intake manifold gaskets
T-Bolt Clamps all around, double checked all reference lines, etc.

So I'm pretty sure I figured out my boost leak (Oh I also forgot to plug a vacuum reference that was on the tb, amongst other things lol...) but my car has been running lean. so I decided to investigate. Fuel pressure was fine at 52 idle and looks like it was building when it hit wot, I decided to hardwire the fuel pump anyways, and I found this. Melted the plastic and literally disintegrated in my hands. Lol
58372462_2099879716778055_5430337202003378176_n.jpg
So right now waiting for epoxy to dry, ran wires straight through, epoxied the holes. Ran it to a relay and its hooked up straight from the battery, with the trigger being the old fuel pump power. Hopefully it works.. i really want to run my car at its full potential. I have it at 10 psi because of the lean issues.. i want 20! Also bought a new maf (nick g used a ford maf) so I will try that out as well. It also sucks that I'm on obd1.. just that little bit more difficult to diagnose.

In the long run I would like to go standalone (probably kdfi because budget) or AT LEAST convert to obd2, for romraider and what not. I would like to do E85. I have another 255 pump, I wonder if twin 255 pumps be any good for running e85? Then would have to definitely get bigger injectors. Or maybe I'll just be happy with the way it is when I have it all sorted.. who knows.

I will keep this posted! Keep bfc alive! I feel like most people have moved to fb groups..

[pbonsalb]

Which new Ford MAF did you buy to replace the one supplied with the original tune? How did you identify it as the proper one?

[Robocop]

2 walbros, or 1 big boy pump that's made for e85.

http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-f9...ve-tcd470.html

[328iFun]

52 psi fuel pressure at idle?

No, fuel pressure should be around 43 to 44 psi idling...

And around 51 at idle with fuel pressure regulator vacuum disconnected.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[acbx]

pbonsalb, I will get you the part number in a few. it's basically the same one used in most of their ford v6 models.

Robocop, Is that the same as the hellcat pump? That things a beast haha

328ifun, check bentley, fp at idle for 3.5bar fpr is 51 psi at idle.

So, the postive wire was causing my initial issues, the car ran great the first day of the fix, I even raised up the boostf! 17psi. Felt great. Next day it started going lean again at wot.

Found a slit in fpr reference line, replaced it. Still 60-61 fp with reference plugged in, 65 with no vacuum reference. Replaced with new bosch fpr.. same thing. The fuel pressure doesn't sweep forward either with throttle blips. Disconnected return line after 3/2 valve and fp dropped 1 psi at idle so it was still around 60... Also tried disconnected the 3/2 valve (just the connector). I'm thinking maybe there's a clog somewhere and it is causing extra resistance = higher fuel pressure?

[328iFun]

pbonsalb, I will get you the part number in a few. it's basically the same one used in most of their ford v6 models.

Robocop, Is that the same as the hellcat pump? That things a beast haha

328ifun, check bentley, fp at idle for 3.5bar fpr is 51 psi at idle.

So, the postive wire was causing my initial issues, the car ran great the first day of the fix, I even raised up the boostf! 17psi. Felt great. Next day it started going lean again at wot.

Found a slit in fpr reference line, replaced it. Still 60-61 fp with reference plugged in, 65 with no vacuum reference. Replaced with new bosch fpr.. same thing. The fuel pressure doesn't sweep forward either with throttle blips. Disconnected return line after 3/2 valve and fp dropped 1 psi at idle so it was still around 60... Also tried disconnected the 3/2 valve (just the connector). I'm thinking maybe there's a clog somewhere and it is causing extra resistance = higher fuel pressure?

Not sure what Bentley you are referring too but the one I have says:

fpr.PNG

51 PSI with vacuum disconnected, when connected pressure on the diagram should decrease from 51 to around 44 psi. Will vary slightly per vehicle...

60-61 is way to high...

Somethings messed up with your setup

[acbx]

I completely missed that, you are correct 328i fun. That means I’ve been having way too high fuel pressure since the beginning.. somethings up I agree. Gonna pull out a few lines tonight and take a look.

[SS Ball3r]

Any shots of the center exit exhaust you did? I am in the middle of doing thje same thing with my e30.

[acbx]

Any shots of the center exit exhaust you did? I am in the middle of doing thje same thing with my e30.

Nice! Here's a low down shot when I first had it done. I had to cut the spare tire out (it was already cut from way back anyway for other reasons lol).center exit.png

[328iFun]

Looks good, has to be lying low.thoigh

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[acbx]

Thanks! Yeah haha luckily I haven't scraped on it yet. I also raised my car a butt ton since that picture, I was getting tired of living that low life, couldn't enjoy the car.

Update on the car I pulled the 3/2 valve and added a new fuel filter, replaced a few rubber lines underneath.. same exact high fuel pressure! Ugh. When I pulled the 3/2 valve I noticed the return side looked very restrictive. I found a similar thread on here from Braymond experiencing very similar issues.. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...e-at-idle-Help he replaced the 3/2 valve & stock fpr with an aftermarket one, and his issues were resolved. So I think I'm just gonna bite the bullet and buy an aftermarket fpr.

What brand aftermarket fpr do you guys run? Seems like the go to is aeromotive..

Thanks,

[DSTX17]

Please show what you have to delete on the stock fuel pressure regulator set up if you end up changing to an aftermarket. I may be in the same situation soon. Hows your cx manifold holding up? Did you do any reinforcing? There are people saying to reinforce them but can't find anything on where they need reinforcing.

[acbx]

Please show what you have to delete on the stock fuel pressure regulator set up if you end up changing to an aftermarket. I may be in the same situation soon. Hows your cx manifold holding up? Did you do any reinforcing? There are people saying to reinforce them but can't find anything on where they need reinforcing.

I will! I just ordered an Aeromotive 13129, and I'm going to be bypassing the 3/2 valve and oem fpr.

As for the manifold, I've had it for two years so far.. no issues. No bracing. Probably 15kish miles? I used n54 studs and copper nuts so that it would be easier to install. I know personally people who have used it on drift cars with no issues.. and people online who apparently had to do everything to keep it from leaking. I guess it's hit or miss.

[acbx]

Wow its been a minute. Changes I've made since the last post.

In the midst of discovering what was wrong with my car, I discovered that my obd1 harness was acting up - for some reason it had flipped the two coolant temperature sensors, unsure why. If you are familiar with Obd1 setup it has two coolant temp sensors that give out different readings depending on temperature for both the cluster and ecu. When I flipped them - car ran great, I also figured it out they were flipped by unplugging them individually and noticed that they were doing the opposite of what it should have done if I had disconnected it. Anyways, while NickG tuning package was great, and super reliable. The harness issue just pushed me more to do the obd2 swap since at the end of the day I wanted to go E85 and i wanted to learn how to tune it myself.

Now it being a 95 made it just a little trickier, but overall the same. It didn't help that I had to remove this 90s remote start system that was installed by the original owner. That was a nightmare.
remotestart.jpg
I had two OBD2 engine harnesses in hand (one has an extra Y split for the crank sensor, the other one is a late model 99 that did not have it). I originally wanted to use the late model 99 harness because it was less hacked up (I pulled it from the junkyard), and I was able to make it start and idle for a little but it posed to be too unreliable since I used the stock obd2 crank sensor on the front but spaced it out with washers, and it was super finicky about that. You can't use a euro crank sensor with the 99 one because it needs to be 5v and not 12v. So I ended up using the normal more common obd2 engine harness, removed the extra y harness, used a euro crank sensor and deleted EWS in the ecu using romraider. Voila! It started. Then discovered I had a bad obd2 cam sensor - replaced that. The joys of being able to read CEL and log things! Everything works.

Ever since then I've been trying to tune it myself with Romraider using the maf I had laying around from NickG's tune package and the injectors I already - I got it to run right but I kept hitting the load limits in the ecu (1024 mg/stroke the ipw drops to 0 = lean) . Of course the remedy to this is to halve everything. It has been a time consuming process and there were times when I want to pull my hair out - still do! A lot of tuning, logging, research, testing, tuning. etc etc. I got it to boost good with little knock adaptions but I still hit the load limits at high rpm in 3rd gear. I really love the fact that I can log knock etc, but there were times where I wanted to go to standalone. I really hate having to halve all the load tables just to get around the load limit in the ecu.. Anyone have good luck with kdfi ecu? Lol

Since I am selling my old NickG tuning package and of course the MAF is included with it, I decided to switch to the more commonly used Nissan MAF (at least in the romraider forum) and added a 2.2k ohm resistor for my set up. I also purchased and installed a Walbro 450 in preparation for E85. For injectors I am waiting for snake eater performance to have in stock their deka 142lb injectors again - purchase a set of those and give it a try. I have heard good things about his injectors and I follow his social media and he seems very knowledgeable and to be pretty popular in the Ls / v8 world. That is pretty much where I am at now - hopefully they're in stock soon.

That and installing my new (but used) Tial WG. Lol

EDIT: Also yes I installed that Aeromotive FPR - it was super easy to hook up. I removed the stock fpr and ran a line from my the back of the fuel rail to my new aeromotive fpr mounted where the cruise control used to be, which then the fpr leads back to the stock line under the car. In hindsight I wish I purchased one with a gauge on it, but once you set your fuel pressure that's pretty much it, you shouldn't have to touch it again.