Ive been researching and am stuck. My '88 convertible is not getting any spark. So far I've changed the following parts: distributor cap and rotor, coil, DME, and main relay. I've read that the convertible does not have a fusible link...can anyone confirm this? Any help would be appreciated.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Also stop test is not working.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Check for power at coil key on ,if no power present check OBC relay box green wires located above ABS module drivers dash behind headlight switch .
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Angus
88 E30M3 X2 (1 summer/1 racetrack)
89 325IX (winter)
92 R100GS/PD
did you ever check the sensor that reads the front pulley? I am totally blank on the name of the sensor but it plugs in by the diagnostic port by your filter box and runs along the water pump/timing cover and plugs into the mount at the front of the engine, passenger side below the water pump.
No e30s again.
Yes, I changed the crank position sensor. The engine cranks over but I'm getting zero spark.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I'm completely stuck.... may have to have a professional look at it.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I checked it and I don't think I'm getting 12v at the coil. What would that indicate?
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
That can indicate bad main relay, bad wiring harness (engine harness). You checked the 12v side of the coil against the engine as groundd and got nothing when the key is on? if so, chase the wiring and check function of the main relay.
As mentioned if you have a 13 button OBC then it will have a relay box above the ABS computer and the (green &green/red) wires at the relay box go bad and you wont have voltage at coil.
If no OBC then power just comes thru the ignition switch on green wiring I remember rightSent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Angus
88 E30M3 X2 (1 summer/1 racetrack)
89 325IX (winter)
92 R100GS/PD
I do have an OBC, so I'll start there. Thanks everyone.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Ok. I've got 11.4 volts at the coil but I'm still not getting spark. The dizzy cap and rotor are new. Any thoughts?
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
If you have 12v at coil - the next step is to check the coil to the Distributor cap.
You should be able to pull the coil spark wire and see the spark being generated when cranking the car - if you cannot, then the coil is bad OR the 12 Volts is intermittent. You should have steady spark rate from the coil.
If you have spark to the cap then check a wire leading to a spark plug for spark - if no spark then pull cap and rotor and diagnose.
Keep at it - you are going to find out this issue.
I've just noticed that my tach isn't moving while I crank the engine. Would this indicate my CPS is bad, even though its new?
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I would be checking the wiring for the CPS, After reading jlevie’s extensive write up of his experiences with CPS wiring issues parked at the top of the page
Last edited by msservices; 05-06-2019 at 05:14 PM.
Well I'm thinking the CPS may be bad because its measuring at over 800 ohms, and I've read it should be around 540.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
You mentioned changing the cps at one point. What did the other one read?
I didn't measure the old one because the wires were cracked.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Ok. So I did a full DME pinout and the only thing I'm not getting is the main relay to click when I connect pin 36 to ground. Can I assume that means I've got a bad connection from the main relay to the DME?
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I got it started! I used some wires to jump the main relay and it fired right up. Weird because the relay was new, I guess I got a bad one from Ebay. A new relay is on order from Turner!
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Bookmarks