Need a little help, in the middle of pulling the motor

[DSTX17]

I am in the middle of removing my engine to start my turbo build and install the cutring. Here is what I have done:

front clip removed
intake manifold/fuel rail removed
full exhaust removed
cardboard around ac condensor
driveshaft unbolted
power steering hoses unbolted from steering rack
wire harness mostly out - still connected to some sensors that are in the block
top motor mount nuts taken off
slave cylinder removed
2 heater/coolant hoses at back of motor disconnected
trans brace taken off

questions:

what do I do with the a/c system? When I lift the motor won't it tug on the a/c lines that are connected to the compressor?

What do I need to do to clear the steering shaft? I loosened the bolts around the splines and can't get it to budge, is there another option?

Is the wiring harness supposed to stay on the car or come out with the motor?

How do I hook the engine hoist to the back of the engine?


thank you

[JitteryJoe]

Did you pull A/C condensor and radiator or are you trying to pull over the top of these?
I found it easier to pull everything off the front.

The A/C, you need to have it drained if you plan on removing hoses. I disconnected all the hoses from the compressor. They will pop off with some nudging once the bolt is removed. Plug the compressor holes at some point so oil does leak out.

You have to remove the bolt around the steering shaft spline. The spline is notched for the bolt and it will not release unless the bolt is completely off.

There is a location at the back left side of the engine when you can get a hook or clamp connected. Basically a big hole in the upper part of the block.

The wiring harness can stay but you'll need to get everything disconnected. This is easier with the intake manifold off. LABEL EVERYTHING!

Disconnect wiring plug to transmission. It is looped over the top of transmission.

Just make sure anything that is connected to car is released. Look at pictures in various posts.

Take pictures of everything. You'll want them later.

Probably a lot more but that's all I can think of off the top.

[DSTX17]

Did you pull A/C condensor and radiator or are you trying to pull over the top of these?
I found it easier to pull everything off the front.

The A/C, you need to have it drained if you plan on removing hoses. I disconnected all the hoses from the compressor. They will pop off with some nudging once the bolt is removed. Plug the compressor holes at some point so oil does leak out.

You have to remove the bolt around the steering shaft spline. The spline is notched for the bolt and it will not release unless the bolt is completely off.

There is a location at the back left side of the engine when you can get a hook or clamp connected. Basically a big hole in the upper part of the block.

The wiring harness can stay but you'll need to get everything disconnected. This is easier with the intake manifold off. LABEL EVERYTHING!

Disconnect wiring plug to transmission. It is looped over the top of transmission.

Just make sure anything that is connected to car is released. Look at pictures in various posts.

Take pictures of everything. You'll want them later.

Probably a lot more but that's all I can think of off the top.

I have radiator and fans out, condenser is unbolted and hanging by the flexible hose.

Is it possible to remove the motor without having to drain the a/c system?

On the steering spline, I think there are two sets of nut/bolts...an upper and a lower. I have both loosened but not removed. Are you supposed to pry open the gap that the bolt crimps down on? I can tell this was done before by a previous person who worked on this car.

When you say back left of the engine for the spot to hook the hoist onto, you mean back passenger side or back drivers side?

[JitteryJoe]

I have radiator and fans out, condenser is unbolted and hanging by the flexible hose.

Is it possible to remove the motor without having to drain the a/c system?

On the steering spline, I think there are two sets of nut/bolts...an upper and a lower. I have both loosened but not removed. Are you supposed to pry open the gap that the bolt crimps down on? I can tell this was done before by a previous person who worked on this car.

When you say back left of the engine for the spot to hook the hoist onto, you mean back passenger side or back drivers side?

"you mean back passenger side or back drivers side" Drivers side (left)

No, you do not pry it open. Remove the bolt where the spline is. The spline may have seized up a bit. I thought mine was seized until I simply removed the bolt. It was not obvious. I don't recall if this was upper or lower but where it looks like you can drive in a wedge to "open" it up, there is where you pull the bolt. The bolt appears to just tighten around the spline but it also passes through an indentation of the shaft itself. It is obvious once disconnected. EDIT: Found a picture. Pull both the bolts holding the lower steering u-joint. It should slide up or down.



You'll have to release the A/C compressor (4 bolts) and push out of the way if you do not plan pon draining and disconnecting hoses. Seems like the more difficult path but if you did not drain the A/C, well ...

You can see the rear hoist mount in this picture

[DSTX17]

very helpful, thank you!

[pbonsalb]

You can leave the AC connected and move the compressor and condenser out of the way but you will have to hold it fiddle with them to get the motor past them.

[DSTX17]

I will be trying this tomorrow

[Hova]

Unbolt the compressor. It's just 4 long bolts. Swing it to the side.

The steering coupling is a lot easier to take out if you unbolt the steering rack. It's 2 bolts and 2 nuts. If you loosen the pass side bolt, then remove the driver side bolt, it should give you a bit more reach and help you take that spline out.

I always seem to have an impossible time putting these splines back on, so if I know I am going to be removing them later on, I also just buy a new rubber coupling. They wear out over time anyway, so worth the replacement in effort.

The harness stays with the engine. Pull the ECU from the slot in the pass side firewall, remove the power and ground wires on that side as well. The harness should then unplug from the right side.

You could also keep the harness in the car, just mark the wires with where they go. Either is fine.

BTW, if you're only going to be installing the cut ring gasket, why not just do it with the engine in the car? I've seen it done both ways, and I know people with this particular gasket use a dab of super glue to keep the rings in place while putting the head on so they don't shift. Just curious if you have other intentions besides simply the head.

[DSTX17]

Have to remove oem exhaust manifold and install turbo manifold. Only other work is on the trans...clutch, bearings, detents, etc. I've read people do it both ways but I felt like I would be more comfortable doing it outside of the car. I've done all the hard work already for removing the engine so I don't think it would be smart to switch directions now.

[DSTX17]

So I ended up removing the ac entirely today. Still fighting with the steering coupler. Some progress anyway...

[TostitoBandito]

Just drop the steering rack off. If the shaft won't come out of the coupler after you remove the retaining bolts (one on top and one on bottom of coupler holding each side of the shaft in), start hitting it with a mallet as you tug on the rack. Spraying lots of penetrating lube on the area where the splines go into the coupler also might help. If you loosen (de-bolt) both sides and start pulling on it, one side or the other should eventually pull free.

[Hova]

Just drop the steering rack off. If the shaft won't come out of the coupler after you remove the retaining bolts (one on top and one on bottom of coupler holding each side of the shaft in), start hitting it with a mallet as you tug on the rack. Spraying lots of penetrating lube on the area where the splines go into the coupler also might help. If you loosen (de-bolt) both sides and start pulling on it, one side or the other should eventually pull free.

This.

And if that won't work, then either cut the rubber or drill the rivets out. Then pull the coupling pieces off one by one.

[DSTX17]

Engine is out! I was tapping the steering coupler down and it moved a little bit but not enough to separate the two halfs. Once I unbolted the rack, I kept tapping it with a hammer and it came off the rest of the way rather easily.

When I started removing the motor, I was getting snagged on the passenger motor mount so I unbolted that.

Then I got snagged on a power steering line (probably will replace now because I put a lot of stress on this)

And it was pulling on the o2 sensor lines that were zip tied with the fuel pressure regulator 3 way valve wires... by the fuel filter. Although nothing broke.

[JitteryJoe]

Engine is out! I was tapping the steering coupler down and it moved a little bit but not enough to separate the two halfs. Once I unbolted the rack, I kept tapping it with a hammer and it came off the rest of the way rather easily.

When I started removing the motor, I was getting snagged on the passenger motor mount so I unbolted that.

Then I got snagged on a power steering line (probably will replace now because I put a lot of stress on this)

And it was pulling on the o2 sensor lines that were zip tied with the fuel pressure regulator 3 way valve wires... by the fuel filter. Although nothing broke.

Congratulations! Hopefully getting it in will be easier. Good luck with the engine work.

[Hova]

got snagged on a power steering line (probably will replace now because I put a lot of stress on this)

To save a few bucks, and likely a better part, if it got snagged on the lines going from the reservoir to the pump and rack, you can use 1/2" and 5/8" hydraulic lines. They are near zero pressure in this area. Just cut off the fittings with a dremel, and slip on the new hoses with new clamps. 300psi hoses in this area last a lot longer than the OE hoses, and only cost a few bucks.