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Thread: Lifter Break In

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    1995 BMW 325i

    Question Lifter Break In

    Hey guys, it's me again. Me and all of my lifter questions. I only have a few this time, and hopefully it's the last batch, pertaining to the break in procedure. So for a little background information, the engine is the m50b25tu, during this process I reused essentially everything except for the lifters. Everything has been thoroughly cleaned and polished, all the way down to bolts and oil passages. I rebuilt the VANOS during this with the Besian Systems rattle repair kit and seal kit. The new lifters are INI. Now I have spent countless hours researching how to properly break in lifters (general how-tos, not specific to the m50), and I've heard things such as setting the ignition timing to a faster pace to allow the engine to start as quickly as possible to lubricate everything almost immediately, only using conventional oil during the break in procedure, and to not pump up the lifter pistons prior to installation. The reason I'm asking this is the how-to video I'm using didn't include any of this. It also stated that you don't have to hold your rpms between 1.5k and 3k for 30 minutes, as the INI lifters are designed to break in at idle. I'm just looking to confirm which information is correct, as i really dont want to have to tear down my engine again! I'll include a link to the video I used for reference. Both videos are part of the how-to series. Thanks guys!

    Video 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRnqy-7dT28
    Video 2:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23jXHhkpV_I

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    So you prefilled the lifters with oil or you didn't ??
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    I haven't yet. I'm waiting to hear back from you guys before I continue on.

  4. #4
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    Yeah, you fill them. Watch the first video, he submerges them and uses a hand vacuum pump to remove the air from the lifters forcing oil into them. I would use whatever synthetic oil you normally use in your car. no need for break in oil or conventional oil. I think the only issue is that when you install the cam some of the lifters are going to be stiff, but others can comment on that.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by hkdboarder42 View Post
    I haven't yet. I'm waiting to hear back from you guys before I continue on.
    Good move. As Eric stated you definitely want to prefill them. I am running an engine that sat for a long time and one of the lifters is ticking so I will be in for this wonderful experience soon myself. As for the cam installation, there is a specific pattern you must follow to remove and install the cams. I don't know it off the top of my head because I am not god but I am sure a google search will do it.

  6. #6
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    1995 BMW 325i
    I already know the torque patterns and such for installation, and just so you're aware, start at bearing cap 2. Because I feel like returning some help for all of the help you guys provided, I'll give you some helpful tricks I've learned along the way! 1) If any internal components are going to be sitting out for more than a day, protect them from rust. I like to use ATF fluid since its cheap, isn't bad for your engine if you leave it on during installation, and I like the red tint 2) Whatever you do, do NOT use wire brushes of any sorts on any mating surfaces, such as the bearing cap to cam tray surfaces, lifter surfaces in the cam tray, cam lobes and bearings, and all bearing contact points. Polish these surfaces with a shop rag and mineral spirits, then hit with some brake cleaner to remove any microfilaments left over from the shop rag, air dry, then cover in ATF. 3) Watch those videos, by far the most detailed and intelligent walkthrough I've ever viewed. I highly recommend it. Hope that helps and good luck with your install!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hkdboarder42 View Post
    Hey guys, it's me again. Me and all of my lifter questions. I only have a few this time, and hopefully it's the last batch, pertaining to the break in procedure. So for a little background information, the engine is the m50b25tu, during this process I reused essentially everything except for the lifters. Everything has been thoroughly cleaned and polished, all the way down to bolts and oil passages. I rebuilt the VANOS during this with the Besian Systems rattle repair kit and seal kit. The new lifters are INI. Now I have spent countless hours researching how to properly break in lifters (general how-tos, not specific to the m50), and I've heard things such as setting the ignition timing to a faster pace to allow the engine to start as quickly as possible to lubricate everything almost immediately, only using conventional oil during the break in procedure, and to not pump up the lifter pistons prior to installation. The reason I'm asking this is the how-to video I'm using didn't include any of this. It also stated that you don't have to hold your rpms between 1.5k and 3k for 30 minutes, as the INI lifters are designed to break in at idle. I'm just looking to confirm which information is correct, as i really dont want to have to tear down my engine again! I'll include a link to the video I used for reference. Both videos are part of the how-to series. Thanks guys!



    Video 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRnqy-7dT28
    Video 2:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23jXHhkpV_I
    Holding the revs up for break in is a leftover from the days of splash lubricated cams in the valley of domestic V-8s. No need for that in a modern OHC engine like yours.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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