front alignement toe in

[Belgiumbarry]

i just wanted to do a rough check "toe in" ( with ropes over the tires) , but i can't find a number over here in a thread or spec's…. does anybody knows what we should have in degrees or measure x mm difference over a (18) inch wheel ?
I had my work getting the tie rods lose….. and got it now to 1° per wheel toe in ( 8 mm difference over the 18" wheel ) but have no idea how much we take best . ( Best handling , no priority for tire wear )

Thanks for info !

[Imndeep]

i just wanted to do a rough check "toe in" ( with ropes over the tires) , but i can't find a number over here in a thread or spec's…. does anybody knows what we should have in degrees or measure x mm difference over a (18) inch wheel ?
I had my work getting the tie rods lose….. and got it now to 1° per wheel toe in ( 8 mm difference over the 18" wheel ) but have no idea how much we take best . ( Best handling , no priority for tire wear )

Thanks for info !

8 Tech did a piece a few years ago. What you're looking for is CSI specs.
Front: Caster: +8deg 53', Camber: -0deg 24' Toe: +0deg 26'
Rear: Camber -1deg 23', Toe: +0deg 20'
front ride height: 600nm
rear ride height: 570 nm

[Belgiumbarry]

thanks for reply Imndeep... but what do you mean ? a half degree toe OUT for fronts ????

[JDP530]

thanks for reply Imndeep... but what do you mean ? a half degree toe OUT for fronts ????

Positive Toe (+) will have front of tires pointing toward center line of the car.

+26' total toe would would equal apprx .116 in or 2.946 mm difference between track at front of tire compared to track at rear measured at center line of tire with a tire diameter of 25.6".

Toe-in Plates make it easy to measure toe using two tapes and aluminum plates that fit against wheels. I use the Longacre Toe Plates: http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...Magnets-(pair)

[cartoonz]

8mm over the 18" wheel is a hell of a lot more than 1°

[Belgiumbarry]

sorry , i thought toe "in" was called in negative numbers…. doesn't matter. So , sure toe "in" .

Tang 8 ( difference) /457 (18" wheel) = 1° …. that's how i calculated it ….

3 mm difference between the tracks front/rear of wheel … i see this as approx 1.5/457 = 0.2 ° (per wheel. )

edit : i installed the 0.2° and will see for the road handling …. what i also found as advise for a street BMW : almost no toe in , if any. ( ? )
Depends on how much it changes due rear wheel drive.... and the suspension design.

[JDP530]

I will have my car on an alignment rack as soon as I finish up the rear suspension installation. Shop said they had difficulty aligning rear end because the pivot bearings on wishbones were worn out. I am just about ready to bolt in the subframe now. I have been running 0 toe on the front and about 1/8" toe on the back. I also have camber plates and run about 2 deg of neg camber on the front with toe at 0. I need to check and see how much toe-in I gain if I take out some of the neg camber in the front.

Here is photo of rear suspension after building it on table. I do have some adjustable sway bar links to install once rear suspension has been installed.
IMG_20190414_191837362 (2).jpg

[Belgiumbarry]

shiny nice job JDP530 ! i tested car handling this afternoon , runs straight forward, no more feeling of steering to the left . In corners i don't feel any difference... just "good". Must search once the "limit" ….

PS i'm more into getting it mechanical OK... not so much in the "bling" factor....sorry, i don't get that far in painting parts…

[JDP530]

shiny nice job JDP530 ! i tested car handling this afternoon , runs straight forward, no more feeling of steering to the left . In corners i don't feel any difference... just "good". Must search once the "limit" ….

PS i'm more into getting it mechanical OK... not so much in the "bling" factor....sorry, i don't get that far in painting parts…

I need to finish work on the rear end so I can 'find the limit' of suspension, but on a track. I have already completed work on the front suspension that also included larger brakes and coilovers. And, right now, its more important to me to have the car in excellent mechanical condition so it can be drive cross-country. Body and paint work will come later.