My "new to me" car is a 2001 BMW 330ci, convertible with a 110,000 miles.
My passenger door was completly locked, would not unlock from inside or outside, including the door to the gas tank. Convertible opens and rear 2 windows open but will not close.
I knew the problem was the GM5 module. So I sent the module to Scott (bmwgm5.com) last monday. Scott fixed the module and I got it back last night.
Good news is finally the door is unlocked. Excellent job Scott.
I pulled back out the module becouse Scott said:
This usually is the result of a tech injecting power into a window motor wire w/o disconnecting the module or a pinched wire window motor wire in the door. I can repair this and test it, verify that it is 100% good, but, if there is a pinched wire in your car that caused this it WILL fail again in exactly the same manner. The fault in the car must be corrected before the module is reinstalled.
The question is where to start looking for pinched wire? wires by the trunk? half way on the soft top....
Your input will be helpful.
Last edited by BRISTOW VA; 04-16-2019 at 11:54 AM.
Ok, time to pull out door panels then. I wiil start with driver side ,then rear driver side, locate (check ) wiring to CVM.. The fun begins.
Thanks.
You know it is window wiring causing the gm module to fail. Check the wiring diagrams is my $.02.
Bristol VA, the module had a trace from the relay to the connector completely burned and at the narrowed part of the trace it melted the copper. I have a picture of it on my phone. Looks like Rear Driver Side Window-Close, which is connector X332 pin 4. Wire color Blue with Green stripe. I've seen this happen before on various window traces and it is not caused by a problem in the module. It is caused when one of the wires to the motor has power or ground from an outside source. Usually when some idiot tech injects power to one of the window motor wires without disconnecting the module first. When the module is not powering the window motor the wires are connected to ground through the relays. When you then inject power on one of the window motor wires with the module connected the path of least resistance it back to the module, through the relay to ground. So if this was caused by a stupid tech who didn't know what they were going then fine. Mystery solved, never let that guy touch the car again and you should be fine. If the window worked fine and suddenly stopped working without anyone touching the car then you should really be concerned as it's probably a pinched wire to ground somewhere and it will likely happen again and blow the circuit board trace again when you try to raise the rear driver side window. Follow the cable bundle from connector X332 to the rear driver side door connector (I know, it's practically impossible) and then into the door to the motor (much easier and where you should start.
Last edited by scottjoh; 04-19-2019 at 07:11 PM.
Scottjoh, please learn to use paragraphs to make you apparently knowledgeable post more comprehensible. Thanks.
Charlie
Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to these threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same or similar problem stands on your shoulders.
Scottjoh,
I just bought the car a couple of months ago. The dealer informed me about the convertible top and window issues (some times).
You are right and you know this sh...t perfectly. Amazing guy you are!
Last weekend, I removed the door panels including the rear panels (I was planning to replace all speakers from Bavsound anyway).
Just as you suspected, driver side rear panel, I found a blue with green wire (insulation stripped) and another brown wire with same scenario.
Also I checked the wires in the trunk loom and found a brown wire frayed. After all that, now the soft top open and close, windows and doors also function properly.
I still have a parasitic draw on the battery some place. I am hunting that right now.
Last edited by BRISTOW VA; 04-26-2019 at 03:46 PM.
Bookmarks