Has anyone used the cheap tool sets available on amazon or it it smarter to pay extra from one of the supporting vendors?
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The quality of the tool really doesn't matter. You could use a piece of flat bar and c-clamps if you wanted to. The cams just need to be flat on the back relative to the head and parallel with each other.
I can rent you the actual tools if you'd like as well, but really they are $40 to buy. Just grab a set:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-M54-M52....c100677.m4598
Last edited by Hova; 04-15-2019 at 10:42 PM.
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
Similar experience to Hova. I used this sprocket tool (similar ones are listed), and this camshaft locking set that I picked up from eBay. Everything fit just fine. Hova's link looks good and it comes with the sprocket tool already.
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I bought mine from eBay as well. Baum Tools.
They've been used multiple times, no issues and definitely saved me a lot of money by being able to service the VANOS at home.
You should consider getting the VANOS air tester as well if you have an air compressor. It's the right way to do the job.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Vanos-T...-/121512914395
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=angrrw9TaRc
If you don't have an air compressor to do the test, you could go just use the VANOS wrench and measure the distance, but again it's not the proper way to test and assemble it.
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
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I bought the $45 set of timing tools from Amazon seller Aurelio Tech. They ended up working correctly but there was one issue with the cam blocks where the intake side block was not level fore to aft.
While the block was actually sitting flush on the head, the forward edge appeared to be not contacting the head. When I placed the exhaust side block on the intake cam, without moving anything else, the block was flat against the head. Found that a feeler gauge would only slide 1/3 of the way towards the rear where the timing block was then in contact with the head. Checking it against a different flat surface and I could see the forward edge of the block was not machined flat like the rest of it.
Once I knew that I was less worried but at first it confused the heck out of me.
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Just a warning that the set of eBay tools that I got were machined horribly and one side was loose enough for a few degrees of play while I had to file the other one down because it didn't fit over the cam square.
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