E90 - Valve Cover Replacement, Not Just Gasket

[morzada]

2007 328 xiT, 160,000 miles

I've got a leaky valve cover gasket. Advice from my independent mechanic is to not just replace the gasket, but also the valve cover. He says there are some elements of the cover that get gummed up and lead to oil consumption. Maybe I have that wrong, but I am using up to a quart between 7,000 mile oil changes. I'm curious as to other's knowledge on this stance as, obviously, replacing the cover adds a lot to the cost of the project.

Also, I am thinking of doing this project myself as, except for two steps, I think this is within my capabilities. Those two issue are:

1.) Snapping cover bolts. There are just enough stories online about folks snapping bolts and having to extract them - or have the car towed to someone who could extract them. What is the liklihood of this occurring? I'm the second owner of the car and the VCG was replaced by a dealer at about 50,000 miles (110,000 miles ago).

2.) Valvetronic motor. The DIYs make it seem like there is no reset required. Is this true? If one is required, or if somehow I futz it up so one is required, can the car even be started, or do things begin to explode?

Thanks!

EJT

[bmwdirtracer]

Hi friend,
I've never snapped a valve cover bolt. The torque is low (printed on a label on the cover, like 8Nm), but really, I just use a small 1/4" drive ratchet, and go until it feels snug. Now, cracking a corner of the valve cover is likely if you don't follow this advice:

The most important thing by far is to run the bolts in EVENLY. Do not tighten any single bolt, until all the bolts are run down together. If this takes four trips around the cover....okay....it takes four trips. Tightening a single bolt when the cover's not evenly pulled down will crack the cover...THEN you need a new one.

Be really careful not to catch one of the O2 sensor wires underneath the back of the cover when you install it.

Install the metal spark plug tubes after installing the cover. There are a couple of tricks to getting the cover on and off, because everything's in the way. Putting it back on is especially difficult, because if you accidentally catch the gasket on something, you will have a huge leak, Personally, I clean the hell out of the cover, especially the grooves where the gasket sits, and then glue the gasket in place in the grooves with weatherstrip adhesive.

The valvetronic motor will relearn all by itself. Push it into place, then install and tighten the bolts while holding it, do not use the tiny bolts to pull it into place.

You'll want to get the wiring stuff out of the way, and release the rubber wiring grommets from the DME box. You don't need to unplug anything in the DME box though.

The only reason to replace the valve cover is if it's cracked.

[White94RX]

I believe the 2007 E90 had already changed to the plastic valve cover, not the metal one. The plastic covers use standard bolts, and snapping has never been an issue.

I would replace the entire cover at that mileage. Again, assuming it's the plastic one. The crank case vent system is built into the valve cover. If you know anything about BMW engines, the crank case venting system has been an on going problem in nearly every engine they've built. Replacing the cover now could prevent a second repair if the check engine light ever comes on and throws lean condition faults. Metal valve cover has a separate valve unit under the intake manifold, so it would not need to be replaced.

[morzada]

Thanks both. Gives me peace of mind on both issues, and the general question about replacing the cover itself.