just replaced the automatic transmission fluid on my 2002 530i. Even though it was working perfectly
It had 128K miles and I thought it was time. Also changed the oil, differential fluid, and fuel filter while
I was underneath the car.
Because it was the weekend and the dealer was closed I used an aftermarket gasket and carefully
tightened it down to 10NM with a spiral pattern. Filled it with ZF type 5 fluid.
......And it's leaking around the gasket !!!
I guess I learned my lesson on the gasket which seemed to be a little thicker rubber so I'll pick one
up from the dealer on Monday.
Is 10NM the correct torque? I reused the original pan bolts, is that OK?
Reusing the pan bolts shouldn't be a problem, mine was a paper laminated sort of gasket and was a pain in the ass to seat properly.
I ended up stringing very thin wire through every bolt hole to like the gasket up, then I pulled the wire out once I got the bolt to line up and hold the gasket.
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2003 530i M Sport [Black Sapphire Metallic & Sand Interior]
IMG_1075 by Alex Wilson Photography, on Flickr
Use a zip tie to line up the bolt holes on the gasket. One on each side of the pan worked for me. If I have my way I'll never drop that pan again.
Good advice on lining up the gasket.
What torque did you use on the pan bolts ??
Maybe before replacing the gasket run around the bolts again to check they are tight.
If there was old thread locker on the re-used bolts your torque readings aren't worth a damn. Take them out clean and tighten again.
Me, I've never replaced the bolts, don't use thread locker and just run 'em down good and snug. Unless you are Kong using 1/4" drive ratchet pretty much assures you won't over tighten.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Well I decided to bite the bullet and picked up a tranny pan gasket from The dealer. $42 for a thin paper gasket (these guys have NO shame). At least the
after-market one I originally installed was rubber ... but then again it did leak so there you go !
While I was there I talked to a couple of the mechanics and asked them what the proper torque for the pan bolts was. I came prepared with the VIN number
and a picture if the transmission identification plate and they still couldn't find it. They weren't trying to blow me off because they spent about 10 minutes on
the computer and then finally said with a sheepish smile ... "I would use 10NM" !
Well 10NM is a number that kept coming up during my online searches so that's what I used. I have a small inch pounds torque wrench which made things very
precise. 10Nm was about all the inside of those pan bolts could handle before I felt they would start rounding off, so I'm sure it's not more than 10Nm.
Just took it for a vigorous ride and fingers crossed that the "Super Duper Official BMW $42 Gasket" doesn't leak !!!!
Pretty sure that $42 should include new bolts
https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...et-24101423380
Last edited by ross1; 04-16-2019 at 09:24 AM.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Well one would think that a $42 BMW paper gasket would come with something .... pan bolts, the filter, or maybe even a Coke ! But nope, just the gasket.
I did decide to buy 1 pan bolt in case i needed it and the dealer price for 1 (count em one) bolt was $9.80. SHAME on you dealers !!!
The good news is the new gasket isn't leaking.
The ZF pan bolts used to be $5 each, which I thought was really pushing it for a basic fastener.
ZF sells the factory service kit for around $100, which includes a new metal=cased filter, green fiber gasket, two o-ring plugs and a set of T27 pan bolts. It starts to look like a reasonable price if you have a few rounded-off bolts and want the new-style plugs with integral o-rings rather than old style with crush washers.
The original gasket was thin green fiber. That type of gasket is excellent for longevity on flat, stable surfaces. It's not great for sealing with surfaces that have warped slightly (perhaps from previously over-torquing the fasteners) or have accumulated imperfections. Rubber gaskets are more forgiving of surfaces, but generally won't last as long. And while they are initially forgiving of varying torque, they tend fail with the gasket squeezing out or cracking where the excessive pressure. So always use a torque wrench.
For either type there should be four smaller holes in the gasket, usually at the corners. These are for holding four corner bolts and pinning the gasket in position. You lift the pan-with-bolts to the transmission with one hand and spin the driver with the other. Once you know the trick, installing the pan with only two hands is far easier.
The proper procedure is to gently snug the four corner bolts, install all of the other fasteners to snug and back off a half turn or so, wiggle the pan to get rid of any gasket bunching or binding, and tighten in the final pattern.
Actually, all gaskets have those smaller holes -typically on the corners, but not always- -to be used as guides when installing the new gasket. First, you pin the bolts to those smaller holes to guide the installation, then you bolt all the other holes in a criss-cross pattern, and finally you tighten the guide holes and all the rest to specs.
And yes, the thinner paper or fiber gaskets are the best (oem). Do not use any RTV on the tranny oil pan gasket.
Last edited by Chedley; 04-16-2019 at 06:32 PM.
Well I finally found out what the real BMW recommended torque on the tranny pan bolts is on my car.
I obtained a copy of the specs from their service department computer.
My 2002 530i transmission is a green tag ZF 5HP 19. For whatever reason if is referred to as a A5S 325Z
in their tech manuals. The correct torque is 6 NM, not the 10 that everyone seemed to think. Not knowing
that I used 10NM but fortunately nothing snapped so I guess I was lucky .... and after 2 days no leaks.
5HP-19 is ZF nomenclature for the transmission
A5S-325Z is BMW nomenclature for the same transmission
Yes I'm familiar with the ZF transmissions. A few years ago I rebuilt the one in my '89 Jaguar which is a ZF 4HP-22. Everyone should
rebuild an automatic tranny once in their life ..... BUT ONLY ONCE!
However I didn't know that BMW used their own designation for the same transmissions, thanks.
You can get that from various online sources, including newtis.info
The confusion is because other transmissions, including most GM and a few larger ZF transmissions, use 10 Nm for the M6 oil pan bolts. Some GM transmissions (the 4L30 family) even use 12 Nm for M6 fasteners.
Installing new seals in the ZF 5HP19 is quite easy compared to other transmissions. You can have transmission apart into drum assemblies in under an hour with only a half dozen hand tools. It only gets tricky when you change the clutch plates and want to accurately measure the free play.
ZF5HP19 = BMW A5S 325Z
A - Automatic
5S - 5 speed
325 - designed max torque
Z - ZF
Edit: Torque is NM not LBFT
Last edited by Aussie528iT; 04-21-2019 at 08:44 AM.
RonR
99 528iT M52TU 5HP19
RHD Euro Spec
ZF5HP19 = BMW A5S 325Z
A - Automatic
5S - 5 speed
325 - designed max torque
Z - ZF
Thanks Aussie528iT, I've never seen this break down before. Very helpful.
To avoid leaks when you have large pans or covers to tighten down, do not torque until all the fasteners are in place and lightly tightened. This allows the cover to still move as you snug each fastener. After all are snug, then go around and torque. Some panels have required torque sequences to avoid leaks, such is the case in the M62 engines with the upper timing covers and valve covers.
02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)
FWIW, this video from ZF says 10 NM. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8jcRd4gyWc&t=244s
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