LSD wizard
1998 318i with M52 swap has an issue with not starting sometimes randomly.
The car has new battery, brand new starter, new ignition switch, fuses look good and have an EWS deleted DME.
The car started every time for the first month of driving it. One morning, drove to a gas station to get some water and came back to no crank no start.
The starter would click once or twice and i was able to push start the car by popping the clutch so I replaced the starter with a brand new unit.
Car started fine multiple times, drove to the nearest gas station and again, car refused to start when attempting to leave (what is it with this car and gas stations lol).
I attempted a few times, the battery and oil light would come on normally then noticed the battery light disappeared and oil light was very dim
Tried jump starting, nothing. After waiting a few minutes it started up like nothing happened. Drove to my girlfriends house right after, and same issue but i couldn't even push start it. After a few attempts of turning the key and waiting, it started up again.
The grounds to the starter are solid I can't seem to figure out why this is happening. I've searched for a few hours reading threads but everyone's solution seemed to be the starter, EWS, or bad ground. Please help this car has been a huge headache since the swap was done
Last edited by vjefhsb; 04-18-2019 at 12:13 PM.
Member
Its best if your as specific as you can, 'not starting' or 'not cranking' .
Did you upgrade the fuel pump when you did the engine swap? You could remove the fuel pump relay and manually start the pump then check fuel pressure. Problem can also be bad cam sensor, very common no start issue. Don't throw parts at it though, get INPA on a laptop or at least scan for errors.
The inpa cable can be had for cheap on ebay, you also need the ADS adapter (round adapter) for INPA to work.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?2184573
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LSD wizard
Originally Posted by Eric93se
This is a no crank no start issue. Fuel pump was not upgraded, fuel pressure has checked out fine. Cam sensor and crank sensor have both been replaced during the swap procedure. I have just replaced the ignition switch again under warranty and the car started fine all day but at night, same thing. The battery and oil light would go off when attempting to start and I can hear a click sound from the glovebox. The car was parked on a hill and attempted to push start by rolling down slightly. It Would not start by popping clutch but after a few attempts, the car cranked as if the ignition was working properly and started like nothing happened
Member
How's the battery voltage at the fuse box, there is a positive post there.
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LSD wizard
Getting 12.45 volts there
- - - Updated - - -
Also just checked for voltage at starter on the smallest wire, reading only 0.8 volts when should be reading 12 to my knowledge. The biggest wire to the starter however gets over 12 volts
I know this 98 318i has a clutch safety switch which I have just bypassed however still nothing. Not even a click but only sometimes will click. Every other time it will click when turning the key
Member
Because of the dim lights you saw, I would test the fusible link in the trunk. Open it up and visually inspect.
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LSD wizard
Took apart the trunk not too long ago to replace the rear shocks and the fusible link was in good shape, did not look old, along with the other battery connections
Funny enough, after I was stuck at the mall yesterday for two hours, I was able to push start the car. Drove for a little bit and accidentally stalled. Again, no start. Usually if I am able to start the car once after not being able to, it will be able to crank again multiple times. Then after sitting for some time, car will refuse to crank again.
I bypassed the clutch safety switch by splicing the white/violet wire with the black/brown. After driving it home, I tried to start it again but this time heard multiple rapid clicks from the starter as if it’s trying to turn. Strangely, even with the key out, I can still turn the ignition and you can hear the starter click rapidly(I used the screwdriver trick to turn the ignition, ignition tumbler is shot, key spins). That is odd to me because the key must be in to be able to start the car. A few hours later I get in the car and it started just fine, this time without depressing the clutch like it should. Drove around, parked and started three times in a row.
This morning I leave the house and starts like normal. Maybe bypassing the clutch safety switch really did work but probably too soon to assume so. I will see how the car acts today.
Member
What brand crank and cam sensors? I replaced my cam sensor with a VDO and it turned out to be bad out of the box and a known batch of bad sensors. Genuine BMW sensors are recommended for both of those.
Engine has a hard (long) start when the cam sensor is bad, no start when the crank sensor is bad.
11 128i Space Gray slicktop
13 WK2 Deep Cherry
LSD wizard
They are both genuine OEM BMW sensors from FCPeuro. Reading the forums everyone has said any sensors on these cars must be OEM so that is what I went with during the swap and hope to never replace them again. I’m under the impression that bad crank/cam sensors cause a crank no start, not a no crank no start. Am I wrong to believe that? I hope it is not the sensors these were pricy, over $100 each
LSD wizard
Well this sucks to say that even after replacing the starter, ignition switch, having EWS deleted, and bypassing the clutch safety switch still the same issue. I am able to push start the car however. I may be looking into seeing if this starter is defective?
Member
Have you had the battery load tested?
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LSD wizard
Yes tested good at autozone and it is a brand new battery
LSD wizard
Problem solved, someone I know at a local shop took a look at the car and noticed the engine to chassis ground strap was missing. Was stuck and couldn’t start when trying to leave the shop and so we grounded the motor to the chassis with some 0 gauge wire and started right up. Thank you all for your replies
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