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Thread: car cranks and no start fault code fuel pump relay

  1. #1
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    car cranks and no start with fault code fuel pump relay

    got a 03 m3 with smg to manual swap. car drove fine until 2 days ago. car just died and won't start after parking for 5 mins. car will crank and started a few times with rpm bouncing around for a few seconds and shuts off. got it towed to my friends shop and it started right up but dies seconds later. after that the car won't start. used inpa to read and got code 1 fuel pump relay and 44 oil level sensor. checked fuse and replaced them and code 44 was gone and never came back. changed the fuel pump relay and never changed. car still won't start. we pulled the connector off the full pump and got the voltage at around 11.0v. he checked the relay and it was fine. so he used the booster and jumped the fuel pump by touching 2 wires to the connector pins. the pump didn't prime at all. we pulled the pump out from the car and he jumped it but not through the connector pins and it sprayed fuel out instantly. tried it again same thing, squirted out fuel. this time we jumped through the connector pins and yep fuel came out. we put it back into the car connected the hose and the car started for 3 secs maybe and then just died. tried it a few more times either the car starts right up and dies instantly or it just won't start. what could be the problem here? is it because the connectors aren't connected probably so its sending a pump relay code or my pump is about to die. we ordered a used pump for a $50 just to see if its actually the pump. I am not gonna spend $800 on an oem pump from the stealer. if any come across this before or have an idea what could be wrong please let me know. this car is my DD so I need it to be fixed asap. below is what inpa showed

    Date: 04/13/19 12:16:49 ECU: MSS54DS0 JobStatus: OKAY Variant: MSS54DS0-------------------------------------------------------------
    RESULT: 1 errors in error memory !-------------------------------------------------------------
    1 Relais Kraftstoffpumpe
    Error frequency : 2 Logistic counter: 40
    Error occured 1. times at:
    Motordrehzahl 0.00 1/min relative Fuellung 0.00 % Kuehlwassertemp. 8.00 Grad C Versorgungsspannung HR 11.90 V aufgetreten vor (rel. BZ) 0.00 h
    Error occured 2. times at:
    Motordrehzahl 0.00 1/min relative Fuellung 0.00 % Kuehlwassertemp. 8.00 Grad C Versorgungsspannung HR 11.60 V aufgetreten vor (rel. BZ) 0.00 h
    0100 - Leitungsbruch o. Wert fehlt

    Forgot to mention, dew days ago when I was driving and parked on a slight hill. The fuel gauge went from 1/4 full to 1/2. It went back to normal after it was parked and stop for a while.
    Last edited by Jk127; 04-17-2019 at 12:17 AM.

  2. #2
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    Test fuel pressure at fuel rail(51psi).

  3. #3
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    Ok will do. Thanks

  4. #4
    dworthy's Avatar
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    The code says the Relay for the fuel pump. Is this the code before you pulled and tested the relay, or after? Also don't just drop any relay in there either, for that can cause major issues with the DME.

    P.S. Please do not use the term "Stealership" that is very derogatory, as there are plenty of good people who work there, we call that stereotyping in my line of work.
    Last edited by dworthy; 04-15-2019 at 04:53 AM.
    Darin
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  5. #5
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    Hey dwothy,
    I am sure there good people working at the dealership. I did not say anything about the employees. I was saying how much the dealership mark up on parts here in Canada. Anyways, if there's a misunderstanding then I apologized to you.

    Yes, the code is there both before and after I exchanged the relay.

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    The dealerships if they ran there buisness correctly and didn't charge so much money on parts and labor, they would have more people going to them. Recently they started providing these multi paged inspection reports, it's like 5 pages. The cover sheet has your name and car on it. They give you this when you go in for your recall. My customers come in with these reports and what there listing as needed repairs I just not true. So they give there list fishing for work, in the mean time i have people telling me there next car won't be a BMW. Having left a shop that only worked on BMW, MBz, Land Rover, Porsche, Audi. I now work at a shop that works on everything, American, Japanese, trucks, heavy duty trucks, trailers, its great, just working on everyday cars customers tend to be less up tight. Plus our shop has 16 lifts, 31,000 sq feet it is huge.

  7. #7
    dworthy's Avatar
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    Humm, where did you get the Relay?

    Is it used or a new relay?

    PM responded.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  8. #8
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    dworthy will perhaps confirm that 'Motordrehzahl 0.00' means 0 rpm. I would take that to mean that the error code was registered when the pump was priming and not at cranking. I have no difficulty hearing my fuel pump prime but perhaps you might advise if you do too?

    Supply voltage of 11.6 and even 11.9v sounds very low. Is that what you read across the battery?

  9. #9
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    It was brand new from BMW. The voltage is a little on the low side. I will get the battery charge up when I go there after work. The battery reading was 12.0v. When the car was still in working condition, it was around 12.6. I don't recall hearing the pump prime.

  10. #10
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    12.6v is what a fully charged battery should be. So you should get the same at the pump. OK, the ECU is clever enough to realise that you are cranking the engine that it will account for the lower voltage when adjusting the injector pulse times. I have to say that I don't recall hearing the pump on my E34. But on the E46 (and we have two) you cant miss it.

    The pump not priming would coincide with your diagnosis - it happened at 0 rpm. But codes don't tell you everything.

    You can either start with the result - 51 psi and a flow of about a litre every 30 seconds (unless the M3 is higher than the standard E46). Or you can start at the pump end and work forward.

    FWIW, I would not spend $8 let alone $800 unless you can pinpoint the problem

  11. #11
    dworthy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser View Post
    dworthy will perhaps confirm that 'Motordrehzahl 0.00' means 0 rpm. I would take that to mean that the error code was registered when the pump was priming and not at cranking. I have no difficulty hearing my fuel pump prime but perhaps you might advise if you do too?

    Supply voltage of 11.6 and even 11.9v sounds very low. Is that what you read across the battery?
    Yes, that means "0" RPM's at the time of the fault.

    Anything below 12V in the system and the starter is not cranking is low. Double check the battery connections, and ensure they are tight plus clean. Just so you know at 11.9V is a discharged battery, and anything below that will do wonky stuff on the electronics.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  12. #12
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    Thank you will have the battery charge and switch the pump and see later today.

  13. #13
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    Here's the update. It started right up without a problem. Ran into some problems with the delivery of the pump and installing it into the car. Good news is the car starts.

    This is just my opinions. I could be wrong, correct me if I am.

    Pay attention to your fuel consumption. My went up 2L/100km a week before it died.

    The car is less responsive under acceleration. It sort of feels like in limp mode.

    When the pump died, the dme might not get a signal. Maybe that's why when I got the code for fuel pump relay. That's just my guess.

    Final result.

    It starts without hesitation. Smooth acceleration. Learned a good lesson which is important.

    Thank you to all who took the time to read and contributed.

  14. #14
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    Forgot to mention above, the distance range before it died with 3/4 full tank is in the mid 300km range if I remember correctly. After pump was replaced, it's showing around 450km. The fuel level gauge is still showing 3/4 tank. I'll keep an eye out the on both mileage and distance traveled in the next little while. Hopefully, I didn't screw anything up.

  15. #15
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    Always good to read an outcome, particularly a good one

  16. #16
    dworthy's Avatar
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    Yeah, fuel pumps will just die and you won't get a code. As long as you are getting power back there and no pressure, just replace it.

    As a general rule of thumb, I don't like running below 1/4 tank. When you do this, it will expose the fuel pump to the air in the tank. The fuel use used to cool the pump, so if it is in the air, it will be hotter than normal.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  17. #17
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    I would replace the fuel filter as a precautionary step.

  18. #18
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    Thanks guys for the advise. 95% of the time I full my tank up before getting to 1/4 full. Will go ahead to replace the fuel filter on the weekend.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    I would replace the fuel filter as a precautionary step.
    Fuel pump replacement interval should be 60k miles. Don’t wait for codes.

    I would also recommend getting an OBD reader like OBDFusion to check your long term fuel trims
    Last edited by harrier; 04-24-2019 at 01:06 AM.

  20. #20
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    I gotta second harrier's mention that fuel pumps are a consumable. Pump and filter should be replaced at high mileage. I've had several fail on me, involving towing, time and frustration.

    That said, you HAVE TO HAVE adequate battery voltage. It's like this: a dying battery will still have enough "surface charge" for a few seconds of adequate amps to start the car, after which the alternator makes the juice. But if you car needs more than a second or two of cranking, at some point in the dying cycle, the battery won't start the car. First time it happens you'll think "but it always started just fine before", and you'll be right. But a load test (usually free at battery dealers) will show that the battery is past its prime. That battery seller will also let you know that batteries aren't as cheap as they used to be, either.
    Charlie

    Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to these threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same or similar problem stands on your shoulders.

  21. #21
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    I replaced my less than 50000km ago with an oem pump.

  22. #22
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    Did you get an OBD app and read codes and trims?

  23. #23
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    I thought above you said you replaced with a used pump?

  24. #24
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    Back in 2014 i replaced with a brand new oem pump that only lasted less than 50k. I never let my car run less than 1/4 tank and always used Chevron 94 octane gas. This time I just replaced it with an used one csuse I didn't know if it was the fuel pump or relay. Now, I confirmed it was the pump so I ordered a new one already. My mech friend gave me his old snap on obd scanner and I always have it in the trunk and I have inpa on my laptop at home. So I don't think I need another scanning tools.

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