Diving in at the shallow end!

[motorV8ed]

Thanks for the ideas and input. We'll see if I did the right thing or not, but I decided I liked the price of using a 1/2" drill bit more than the price of the Lokar. I laid out where the bolt hole should be for the original dipstick location, and drilled a clear hole.

Jim, thanks for the info on the heat shields. Yes, I was being tripped up by the spring. Now that you told me how to use them, they seem to work pretty well with the MSD wires; I cannot tell for sure until I have the headers installed, however. That is my next big project.

Do you want to hear something sad/funny? Following Jim's suggestion the other day, I wrapped my headers to protect them during installation attempts. (I used an old towel, and taped it to the headers.) I wrapped it in swaddling clothes, and was protectively cradling this poor, delicate piece as I brought it over to the car. Whereupon I misjudged how far down the header output flange hung, and I walked into the corner of the fender. Yes, that is right, I was so worried about not scratching my goddamn headers that I inadvertently took a dime-sized chip of paint out of the fender. Sheesh.

I took the driveshaft to a local driveshaft shop today. Looks like I will need right about 2" added.

[C10 LS1 1968]

Bummer about the paint chip. Stuff happens.

[motorV8ed]

Some frustration, but, overall, it's been a good couple of days. I had visions of getting both headers installed yesterday, but got delayed by a couple of things. I had not quite made the hole for the shifter big enough, so I had to drop the tranny to cut a bigger hole. I also had to re-assemble the shifter that I blindly disassembled. Also, I went to the Ford dealer and got the Motorcraft low-profile reverse-lamp switch in hand, and dropping the tranny seemed necessary for installing that. That was only because I did not realize the pigtail could come off the switch! I got it in fine, but it could have gone much quicker had I realized the pigtail came off.

I was able to get the passenger side header in place yesterday, with only a minimum amount of drama. I followed Tipsy's advice and was able to squeeze it in from the top. (More on this to follow.) However, the hole I drilled for the oil dipstick was off by ~2 mm, so I had to take the header out for some rework. Also, I came to find out that the Fel-Pro exhaust manifold gaskets I bought months ago were graphite, and I decided I wanted to go with GM multi-layer steel units. So this AM I picked up GM ga$kets from the Chevy dealer, and then pulled the header out again. Well, after removing the bolts, it just wanted to drop out the bottom. It turned out to come out the bottom quite easily! My squeezing it in from the top was a dumb effort.

After enlarging the dipstick hole, I was able to easily put the header back in from underneath the vehicle. Long story short, I got the passenger side all installed this afternoon, torqued to spec, starter wires and sensor wires installed, spark plug wires good to go, etc. I may have the time to do the driver's side tomorrow.


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[C10 LS1 1968]

Not to rain on your progress but did you connect the crank sensor and hook up all the starter connections before bolting on the header? Also as you bolt on the drivers side header, when I made the motor mounts the holes are slightly oversize so when you bolt in the steering shaft you can adjust the engine to clear the header.

[motorV8ed]

Not to rain on your progress but did you connect the crank sensor and hook up all the starter connections before bolting on the header? Also as you bolt on the drivers side header, when I made the motor mounts the holes are slightly oversize so when you bolt in the steering shaft you can adjust the engine to clear the header.

Yup, I had the CKP sensor and starter hooked up before I started. After trying to squeeze the header in, I decided it would be easier to remove the starter wires, install the header, and re-install starter wires, so that is what I did.

Today, I got the driver's side header in. I decided Saran wrap was the right substance to protect the headers. Worked pretty well. As Tipsy and others suggested, the header went in easily from below. I took my gloves off for the delicate task of positioning the exhaust gasket, header, and bolts, and the damn GM metal gasket sliced right into my fingertip. I was bleeding like a stuck pig. On the second picture below, I invite you to figure out what is red Sharpie and what is blood!

I eventually got everything in position. (Jim, yes, I used the slots in the motor mount to pull the slotted driver's-side mount away from the steering rack.) I positioned the transmission vertically and horizontally to the correct position. After striving to imagine what other steps I was missing, I concluded that I was done, and torqued the manifold and motor mounts. We'll see!


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[mrallande5020]

You got some bright blood man. Just thinking about that gasket...

[C10 LS1 1968]

I think on every car project I've shed a bit of blood. Glad everything is going together pretty well.

[motorV8ed]

You got some bright blood man. Just thinking about that gasket...

Sure surprised me! SHARP!

I think on every car project I've shed a bit of blood. Glad everything is going together pretty well.

Oh, absolutely. At work, we used to call it "making the required blood sacrifice to the gods." There are certainly other bleeding spots on my hands at the moment!

I wound up needing to add the tranny spacer to get the driveline angle above 1 degree. (I think when I measured earlier, I hadn't gotten the front suspension to settle fully.)

I had limited car time today, but did manage to get the last sensors hooked up, and all the heater hoses installed and other back-of-the-engine stuff laid out. Working on the fuel line. I also bought a nifty 90-degree adapter for the BMW power brake vacuum can from the E46. I think I can then easily pipe in my existing GM vacuum line.


open-uri20140729-27341-1nfkwka.jpg

[motorV8ed]

I think I have the back-of-the-engine area squared away and the wiring cleaned up and fully loomed. (Doing this before starting the engine probably that means I will have to pull it apart later to diagnose something!) The new 90 degree BMW power brake check valve worked nicely. Also got the fuel line fabricated and installed.


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[Lantz]

Looks clean. Got my fingers crossed for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tim Mc]

Pulling it back apart is always part of the job - makes the success that more enjoyable!

You mention stabbing the engine just a couple of times. I stopped counting how many times we installed and removed our 5.3. Easily 7-8 times (of course not fully dressed/installed). Got so good that one person could do it in 45 minutes. Then again, ours was an educational exercise...took our time.

We ran our wiring similar - works out very nicely.

Nice job!

[motorV8ed]

(Thanks, Lantz and Tim.)

Today was finally fluids day. I put 5 quarts of synthetic oil in the engine. I used this tip from Tipsy to fill the T56: I removed the back-up lamp (that I just installed on Fri. or Sat.) and pumped 4 and a half quarts of Dex/Merc ATF in that hole.

Then I bled the new LS7 clutch. MAN, that pedal is light. I know this has been reported before, so I am not freaking out (yet), but I just cannot believe how light it is. I recall Bimerok saying he could "easily push the clutch in with his thumb." I can push it in by extending my index finger, i.e., using only the muscle in my finger. FWIW, I did not perform the pre-install adjustment procedure for the LS7, so it may be just a matter of waiting for it to self-adjust after some driving.

I have moderate confidence in the bleeding procedure, but never say never. I have a Tick remote bleeder. I held the bleeding line vertically, so it went only upwards and was the highest point in the system, then I had a clear hose attached to the bleeding nipple, also held vertically. I pumped about a small can through the system (having an assistant pump while I worked the bleeding lines). Eventually, we got no more bubbles, and only fluid coming out into the clear line.

Later in the day, I modified my PS hose. My donor engine came with a Turn One pump with the high-pressure hose still attached. (I imagine this hose is similar to the OE high-pressure hose, so someone else may benefit from this.) I like the stock look that the the stock hose has compared to, say, braided SS lines. I noticed that, of course, the stock hose fits nicely around the stock alternator, and points close to the BMW steering rack input. I imagine there are only so many places to put a steering rack, so this does not come as a big surprise. Jim already put an AN-6 fitting on the banjo bolt of the BMW steering rack, so I decided to try to mate them.

I put an AN-6 elbow on the banjo bolt, and eyed up where to cut the stock GM hard line so that it would "point into" the elbow. I used a sleeve and sleeve nut, and made a 37 degree flare in the hard line. I think it came out well.


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[bimerok]

Good progress!

Not sure if that just an angle of the picture, but the line looks too close to the sway bar. The bar moves quite a bit along with some movement from the engine they seem like they could touch each other.

Make sure you have enough clearance with the car standing under its own weight and when the wheels are in the air. You sure don’t want that line break and power wash everything with oil.

[motorV8ed]

Good progress!

Not sure if that just an angle of the picture, but the line looks too close to the sway bar. The bar moves quite a bit along with some movement from the engine they seem like they could touch each other.

Make sure you have enough clearance with the car standing under its own weight and when the wheels are in the air. You sure don’t want that line break and power wash everything with oil.

Yeah, that is a concern. I was more worried about the steering rack than the sway bar, and I tried to accurately show the clearances with that photo. If this turns out to be problematic, I can also cut another section off the tube, so the nut winds up where it is seen in the 3rd photo. I can then point the banjo bolt in a new direction to accommodate. (I also don't mind going with braided SS if needed.)

[bimerok]

Clearance at the rack probably won’t change as it is stationary and won’t move in relation to the metal part of the line. You can also bend it by hand to be more parallel with the rack/swaybar, which will move it away from both.

[motorV8ed]

Good progress. I had a freakishly bizarre day yesterday, which slowed progress for a bit. (Found out our cars were broken into overnight, dealt with police, endured massive thunderstorms, then moments after my wife told me [because of high wind] to be careful not to get hit by a falling branch, I was hit by a falling branch [but not too bad], then the power went out from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm, during a very hot spell.)


So, I got the power and grounding wiring finished up, attached the shift stick, figured out what Jim had in mind with the intake, went to Home Depot Racing for a 3.5” to 3.5” intake coupler, obtained an IAT sensor, and replumbed the steam line. I also got to pick up my “new” driveshaft, which I got re-tubed to suit the T56. (BTW, Jim, my driveshaft guy heartily approved of your choice in U-joints.) I bought a 94R battery, which should fit a stock E36 vert.


Today, I found out Jim had reworked the battery box and hold-down, so exchanged the 94R unit for a Group 34 AGM unit, which fit like a glove. I installed the remaining FEAD and serpentine belt, and hooked up the sensors. (I also worked on the exhaust for a bit, but will have to drop that later for the driveshaft install.)


Soooooo, it was time to think about starting this puppy. I put some water in the water pump because I have read that the seal is water-lubricated. I cycled the fuel pump a few times by turning the key on and off. I then inspected for leaks and pressure; no leaks, and system was pressurized. I fretted for a long time about anything I could be missing (and found and fixed one thing, a missing sensor).


Finally, I tried to start, and ….. nothing. Did some basic diagnoses, not finding the problem… eventually, with X20 disconnected, look for voltage to X20#18 during starting. No voltage because I hadn’t pushed down the clutch pedal.

Pushing the clutch gave voltage to X20#18, and then, voila, one hour after first attempt we cranked up a rumbling V8! Ran it for ~25 seconds, and it sounded great.


Looking things over after the first run, there was PS fluid dripping from my hoses. I thought that Leo might have the last laugh on me, but it turns out that the reservoir on my Turn-One PS pump is separating at its seam. I had never added any ATF to the reservoir, but the running engine threw some more into the reservoir, where it promptly leaked out.

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[mrallande5020]

Sorry to hear about the hell you went thru. Glad to hear you got it started and only found one leak, so far...JK i hope that's the one and only. I really want a small cam to get a nice rumble. But knowing me i won't end up just getting a cam. You'r making damn good progress.

[motorV8ed]

I am installing the driveshaft, and have a question. I hope someone can help.

The input flange to the diff is not 4-fold symmetrical:

diag_7riv.jpg

And the u-joint flange on the driveshaft is obviously also not 4-fold symmetrical (this is from JTR, but you get the idea):

BMW_ujoint.jpg

Does the relative alignment of these flanges matter? They must both be independently balanced, I would think, but... does it make any difference how you align these?

Thanks in advance!

[C10 LS1 1968]

Man I just bolted it up. Good 10.9 bolts. Zero vibes.

I know its a bit off topic Paul but the storm you had in WI went just 20-30 miles to the north of the MPLS area on Friday late afternoon. It was the first day of the Oreilly's car show at the St. Paul fair grounds. About 4000 cars attending my C10 included. Air temp was 88-90 degrees and heat index 112 degrees. First big trip for the C10. 350 mile round trip. Hot all day on Friday. This morning we left for home about 11 AM and ran thru 2 inches rain per hour for over 60 miles. Got to like wipers and defrost. It's a bit scary how fast how fast the trucks and cars go past with no regards to hydroplaning.
Truck ran great. Including city stop and go traffic 19 mpg. Fan set for on 205 and off at 195 per the ecm. The C10 dual pass radiator is about 2 times bigger the than E36. Only turned the fan on once or twice in an over an hour of heavy stop driving on Friday.

Again a bit off topic but I think an E36 LS swap properly set up could kill a the Oreilliys auto cross. Just my .02. Look forward to seeing you there next year.

Per your PS issues I used a "stock" NAPA supplied resivour.

Got to be the coolest thing when the LS fires right up. Kind of scary if everything hooked properly and it just starts!

[motorV8ed]

Very glad to get your note, Jim, both the on-topic and off-topic parts of it!

Yes, these one-after-another storm systems have been crazy. More of the same today: after intense overnight storms, we had two different thunderstorm fronts come through in the early afternoon and then the late afternoon. It was sultry the last few days, and I did most of the work described above dripping in sweat. And now I am shivering!

So glad that your new ride fared well in the less-than-benign conditions. I'd love to take a ride up there next year.

My tuner said that, as far as he has ever seen, if you supply these engines with the basics, they fire right up! I am grateful that this was the case for me.

[motorV8ed]

Had to dodge thunderstorms, but got a bit done today nonetheless.

Jim had a hose barb plumbed into the intake between the MAF and the throttle body; I am not sure what he was using this for, but I decided it was a good place for my IAT sensor. I opened it up with a step drill, and I got a Toyota EGR grommet that worked perfectly with a 3/4" hole and the stock IAT sensor.

I decided to drop the whole cat-back exhaust as a unit rather than separate the components. I stuck a 2x4 under the whole thing, and put jacks under each end. Worked out fine. That gave me access to the tunnel for installing the driveshaft.

I installed my new driveshaft, but, as noted in the posts above, became gun-shy on the orientation. It is sitting there loosely, waiting to be torqued home.

There was a Lokar throttle cable from Jim's installation, but I needed to finish it for this engine. I had to cut the sleeve to free up a bit more length to the inner cable, then locked it in place with a generic (Dorman) cable stop. Looks good to me!

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[C10 LS1 1968]

The bung on the bottom of the air tube was for the "clean air" side of the PCV system hose. The hose ran from the tube on the right hand valve cover to the bung on the air tube. I was using a oil catch can on my LS1 so the hose plumbing was different than stock Camaro.
On my LS1 I used a truck mass air that has the IAT integrated into the mass sensor.
Just filled up the truck after coming back from the car show yesterday. 23 mpg. Crazy mpg for a truck shaped like a brick.

[motorV8ed]

Cool! Thanks for the info on the PCV setup. Nice mileage on the C10!

Okay, can I ask a question for the group to ponder? I didn't have much car time today, but before I bolted up the driveshaft to the diff, I realized I could test my clutch engagement. With tranny in neutral, I can (of course) easily spin the driveshaft. With the tranny in 6th gear, I cannot spin it. However, even with the clutch pressed all the way in, I still cannot spin the driveshaft with my hands.

Probably just means the clutch is insufficiently bled, right? Any other thoughts? (I am glad I measured and shimmed the slave, or I would be worried about that!)

[bimerok]

Clutch bleeding would be the easiest and first suspect.

Not sure what kind of bleed valve you got, but usually it is a two person job.

[C10 LS1 1968]

I used a Mity Vac that pulls the fluid out thru the tick speed bleeder. As long as there is fluid in the brake master it will pull clean no bubble fluid with the Mity Vac.

Maybe I'm just lucky but with my T56 magnum using a stock 2002 Camaro slave cylinder, LS7 clutch, pressure plate and fly wheel I just bolted it all up and it worked well with the BMW master. No shimming of any kind. I don't believe a stock Camaro has any shimming of the slave? Could it be the slave is too close?

Again a bit off topic but as you sent the pics of the engine install I saw that it looks like the air port nipple on the left side of the intake is open. That needs to plugged or the ECM is going to add fuel to compensate. Not good. It's some work but what I do is remove the intake, remove the throttle body and then cut the nipple off. Drill and tap the intake for a 5/6" bolt with thread sealant to seal the port. I believe that port was for gas tank fume recycling.

As I"m a nervous kind of guy and you may of done this but unbolt the throttle body and check to see if the is any trash inside of the intake. I bought a "mint" complete LS6 intake from off the LS1 Tech. Didn't think much about it as it looked great. Bolted it on a new built LS6 ready for the engine dyno. For what ever reason before I bolted on the throttle body I peaked inside with my flash light and it was filled with sand and crap. It was a flood vehicle full of sand and gravel.

It would of killed my engine.

I got them banned from LS1 Tech but they are still on Ebay selling nasty LS stuff.