Diving in at the shallow end!

[motorV8ed]

So, life is an experiment, right?


My suppositions (based on readings and reality):
-Taurus fan motor and Volvo fan motor are the same, and they are more powerful than BMW auxilliary fan motor.
-BMW, early Volvo, and Taurus have S-shaped fans (quieter, but a tad less efficient). Later Volvo fan has approximately straight blades.
-Volvo and BMW fans are same diameter, whereas Taurus fans are ~ 1" larger diameter.

-Straight-up testing says that there is a ~15% improvement for straight vs. curved blades ( https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/g...l#post19521922 ), where an early Volvo a later Volvo are compared. The Taurus fan was close to the straight-bladed Volvo.

So here is what I wound up doing. Because the Taurus fan is too large for the BMW shroud, I decided to put the BMW fan onto the Taurus motor. The fans are very similar in design. (In fact, they are protected by the same US patent #.) I am guessing I will get airflow comparable to the older, S-style Volvo fan.

The BMW fan is coupled to the motor is via a large, flanged fitting with holes that mesh with plastic studs in the fan. (The Taurus had a roll pin through the shaft, which I removed.) The flanged coupler was a tight press fit on the BMW shaft, but I got it off. I then pressed it onto the Taurus shaft; the interference fit was not as tight for some reason, so I added a bit of Blue threadlocker.

We'll see. I can always swap in a new Volvo assembly later!

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[TipsyMcStagger]

There's probably nothing here you don't already know but just thought I'd share.

[motorV8ed]

There's probably nothing here you don't already know but just thought I'd share.

Of all the fan threads, I hadn't come across that one! Thanks for the write-up and letting me know.

In a related gesture, I was just working on depinning a relay socket. Your nice writeup sure came in handy. I have only succeeded on one receptacle so far.

I think I may give up and cut the socket apart to get the leads out. I have a couple of new sockets from the BMW dealer. I only have to change a couple of wires, but the time I have spent so far has certainly not been worth the $12 I would "save." (I wrote "save" in quotes because I already have 'em, and won't otherwise use 'em!) Plus, the one I have to depin has a 2.5 mm^2 (or 12 AWG) lead in it, and there isn't much room to get the tools in.

[TipsyMcStagger]

...I think I may give up and cut the socket apart to get the leads out. I have a couple of new sockets from the BMW dealer. I only have to change a couple of wires, but the time I have spent so far has certainly not been worth the $12 I would "save." (I wrote "save" in quotes because I already have 'em, and won't otherwise use 'em!) Plus, the one I have to depin has a 2.5 mm^2 (or 12 AWG) lead in it, and there isn't much room to get the tools in.

Trying to depin those sockets is truly an exercise in patience.

[motorV8ed]

Trying to depin those sockets is truly an exercise in patience.

Well, I ran out of patience! I cut the relay blocks apart with a Dremel to, ahhhh, "depin" them. Then I could arrange the desired pinouts in a new block. All done now.

Actually, the BMW HI/LO relay setup is pretty much already what one needs for controlling a two-speed fan, namely, the LO feed is fed through the NC contact of the HI relay, so it will be disconnected when HI triggers.

What I decided to do was run a hybrid triggering scheme. The BMW thermal switches are capable of triggering the HI/LO fans without any computer to tell them what to do. However, I also want the GM PCM to be able to turn on fans, mostly for A/C. The BMW system setup was similar: they arranged it so that the DME could turn on the LO fan, or the thermal switches could turn on either fan. To do that, they used a fancy-schmancy LO relay with a built-in blocking diode. This would prevent the DME output from being shorted to ground if the thermal switch went to ground.

Therefore, for the LO fan, I could just hook up the GM PCM to the existing fancy-schmancy relay. However, I decided to provide the same feature for the HI fan (which has only a simple relay). That is, I want both the GM PCM and the BMW thermal switches to be able to put the fan into HI. Solution: I simply put an external blocking diode between the relay control ground and the PCM.

I replaced the fan wires with 10 AWG and 12 AWG for the HI and LO respectively. I ordered a 50 A relay to replace the existing HI relay.

Oy, this is taking too long!

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[motorV8ed]

Just some eye candy while waiting for more substantive issues to report. These headers were built by our own Jim (@C10 LS1 1968), and originally installed in the car in flat black. I decided to get them ceramic coated. At least until I scratch 'em up on the installation, they are purdy for now!

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[Lantz]

Looks good how is the wiring going?


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[motorV8ed]

Looks good how is the wiring going?

Thanks for asking! Frustratingly slowly, but I am making progress. For reference, engine is still out of the car. I am planning to make some multipin connectors to mate the BMW chassis wiring to the GM engine harness, so that I can pull the engine without de-soldering tons of things.

Earlier this week, I finished off what I could do on the BMW side of things, coming up with a few nice bundles of wires to hook up to the connectors for the GM harness. Yesterday, I more or less finished up what I could do on the GM side of things (mild wire diet, O2 sensor relocate). Today, I put the engine into the bay to see where the connectors for these harnesses "want" to be located, and to see how the PCM "wants" to sit in the DME cubbyhole. I came up with a few options for how the PCM could be located. I am considering an unorthodox "sideways" mount for the PCM.

In any event, I now can start wiring up the multipin connectors. Planning to start tomorrow!

[Lantz]

I bought some connectors but they were cheap so I ended up soldering. I’m regretting not doing a custom harness. I spent a lot of time custom fitting it but the engine box is messy. I didn’t get the lengths 100% right to the engine connector.

You are taking the right route taking it slow. I’ll end up buying a harness down the road probably and redoing mine because I’m ocd.


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[mrallande5020]

I'm super OCD as well and want to individuality wrap each wire that will be shown in the engine bay like the headlight harness and ground wires. Kind of what you see in custom PC's. But for now just gonna wait till everything works and drives than tear it apart again to make everything perfect. How much of a sound change or HP gain are u going to see with those sexy headers?

[Lantz]

I'm super OCD as well and want to individuality wrap each wire that will be shown in the engine bay like the headlight harness and ground wires. Kind of what you see in custom PC's. But for now just gonna wait till everything works and drives than tear it apart again to make everything perfect. How much of a sound change or HP gain are u going to see with those sexy headers?

Yup


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[C10 LS1 1968]

The headers do look good. There is a guy here in town as part time job builds headers for the stock car racers around here. I spoke to him about header design. He said that its important to keep the angle of the tube as it comes out of the header flange the same as the head for as long as possible and then as big a radius 90 degree down as possible. The passenger side was fairly easy. The drivers side not so much.
On my other projects during the header install I wrap them that thin foam wrap material. I think I got it at the UPS store. You can buy it by the foot.

[motorV8ed]

I'm super OCD as well and want to individuality wrap each wire that will be shown in the engine bay like the headlight harness and ground wires. Kind of what you see in custom PC's. But for now just gonna wait till everything works and drives than tear it apart again to make everything perfect. How much of a sound change or HP gain are u going to see with those sexy headers?

Fortunately for me, I am far from OCD! I will settle for neat and "workmanlike," as long as it is driving! I like how mine is going so far -- pix soon.

As for sound change or HP gain? I dunno, as I never heard my engine run before. I am hoping the ceramic coating will keep underhood temperatures down a tad. But the big advantage is: being able to squeeze an LS1 in that engine bay!

The headers do look good. There is a guy here in town as part time job builds headers for the stock car racers around here. I spoke to him about header design. He said that its important to keep the angle of the tube as it comes out of the header flange the same as the head for as long as possible and then as big a radius 90 degree down as possible. The passenger side was fairly easy. The drivers side not so much.
On my other projects during the header install I wrap them that thin foam wrap material. I think I got it at the UPS store. You can buy it by the foot.

The temporary foam is a nice idea. Thanks for sharing it.

[C10 LS1 1968]

The E36 engine compartment is quite tight. I came within "inches" of venting the hood. The LS1 I had in the car still ran cool (195-205) in traffic but there is a guy south of us that does louvers in what ever pattern you like. I can't think that it wouldn't make a big difference letting heat out. It would require repainting the hood but I think it would look very cool.

[motorV8ed]

It really feels like I have been working on wiring for a dog's age. I (believe that I) have finally crossed over that threshold. I used a 5-way Molex connector I had sitting around for the power connections, and I used two identical cheapo "waterproof" 12-pin connectors for the signal connections. To prevent any possible accidental cross-connection of the 12-pin connectors, I used a M and a F on the BMW side, and a F and a M on the engine side. I decided to help organization and future debugging by labeling all connectors with wire-marking labels. I have split mesh looms ready to go, but figured I would wait until the engine is in the bay before taping, looming, and getting rid of the zip ties.

The first two pix are the BMW side, and the last two are the connectors on the GM side.

I am taking my PCM to a local tuner tomorrow for basic stuff, VATS and emissions delete.

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[Lantz]

That’s looking really good! Looks like you had a fun day of crimping, if there is such a thing


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[motorV8ed]

I performed the "ceremonial first closing" of the fusebox after my wiring escapades the other day. But first I had to trim off a bit of its lid to clear the new relays (with built-in fuses) I have affixed to the outside. The bit of the box that I trimmed away was the part that had the legend to tell you what fuse #'s were where. I got a bit smart and labeled the fuse rows first!

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[motorV8ed]

With the wiring (finally) out of the way for now, I am aiming to install the engine/trans. So, today I cut into the transmission tunnel roof to allow the T56 shifter to come into the cabin. A word of explanation is in order. This car previously had a LS engine with a T56 Magnum in it. That tranny winds up with the shifter located a few inches FORWARD of the stock BMW position, rather than the inches behind we are used to seeing here. Accordingly, Jim (C10 LS1 1968) cut out the shifter area ahead of the stock hole. He then neatened up the area by riveting in some rubber-coated steel. I am using a stock F-body T56, so I had to cut out a section to the rear of the BMW hole, as usual here. Hope there is still enough meat there!

Before:

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After:
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[motorV8ed]

I had a busy day today. First, I am just showing off the headers attached to the engine, and throwing in a question or two. I will make another post later about the engine install!

I finally had the engine on the hoist AND had the headers in hand at the same time. Here are some pix:

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The first question I have regards the dipstick. The headers I have cover the hole that the bracket for my dipstick bolted to. Should I drill a hole in the header flange to access that bolt hole? Is there another solution for the dipstick?

Here are some pix along the engine, showing clearances to vital components:

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The last is the money shot showing the view that the steering rack has.

A few of my spark-plug boots touch the headers. It looks like I should get some boots with 45 degree elbows? Alternately, I could relocate a couple of spark coils. Any suggestions?

[motorV8ed]

After a stultifyingly long time, I finally was able to install the engine for what I hope is the last time. (I have no present plans to take it out again, but I fully understand that I may have to pull it again for some unforeseen reason.)

I started by torquing all the subframe components to spec, then slid the engine into the bay. I got the block loosely bolted to the engine mounts, but then most of the day was spent on sorting out issues around the tranny. First, I needed to work the wiring for the VSS, reverse lock-out, and back-up lamp into place. This was not easy, but I got it done. (I think I should have just hooked those up ahead of time, but I thought the installation would go smoother without dangling wires.) The back-up lamp was a real problem, though. Thanks to Tipsy McStagger, I was aware of the solution of the Ford Motorcraft SW-5857, which is a low-profile version of this switch with pigtails. However, I was optimistic (naive??) enough to think that I might be able to get away with the standard switch. I did get the electrical connector on the switch, but then the tranny could not be centered in the tunnel. It would have been MUCH easier to deal with this with the engine/tranny out of the car, but I cut the connector off with a oscillatory tool and got the switch out. I ordered a Motorcraft switch from a local Ford dealer, arriving Friday.

I also needed to source a transmission mount to mate to the crossmember, and went (for the moment, at least) with an OEM style mount for a TH400 or the like. I was more concerned with getting the driveline angle correct. Jim Brink (@C10 LS1 1968) had been running a T56 Magnum on this car, which has a mounting surface that is a different distance from the centerline than the F-body T56. Thankfully, it seems he built the crossmember to be appropriate for the F-body T56, and used a spacer to accommodate the Magnum. (Yes, Jim?) My measurements indicate that WITH the spacer, my driveline angle would be 2.6 degrees, and without the spacer, it would be 1.9. My understanding is that both of these are acceptable, right? But it is probably the case that 1.9 is preferable. Any opinions on this? (I will need to make a minor slotting modification to run without the spacer.)

It was really nice to let the engine settle into the bay under its own weight for the evening, with no external means of support!

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[bimerok]

The first question I have regards the dipstick. The headers I have cover the hole that the bracket for my dipstick bolted to. Should I drill a hole in the header flange to access that bolt hole? Is there another solution for the dipstick?

For the dipstick, instead of drilling into the flange, I just attached a small piece of metal to the dipstick's original ear so it now extends and attaches to one of the existing flange bolts.

[C10 LS1 1968]

Man I need to document more of my build stuff. Getting old can't remember "stuff".

Trans spacer. Seems to me the spacer would reduce the drive line angle by bringing up the end of the trans up? 2.6 degrees is more than acceptable. I had no drive line vibrations. Per the drive line guys you want some angle to keep the ujoint needle bearings rotating.

Spark plug wires. I ALWAYS run the stock metal plug covers. I've never used anything but stock LS plug wires. Or as advised by the guy that tuned my truck use the Accel plug wires with the ceramic plug boots but they are not cheap.

I wouldn't relocate the coils because if you going to use the stock plastic coils covers there is a good chance they won't fit if you move the coils.

I used a Lokar dip stick. Made a small bracket to attach to a header bolt.

Hope this helps.

[motorV8ed]

Thanks for the info

Trans spacer. Seems to me the spacer would reduce the drive line angle by bringing up the end of the trans up? 2.6 degrees is more than acceptable. I had no drive line vibrations. Per the drive line guys you want some angle to keep the ujoint needle bearings rotating.

Turns out there was enough wiggle room to get the mount in without the spacer without modifications. I think I will leave it for now, and try to get a better reading on the driveline angle once I get the driveshaft in. I think I am in the ballpark, but can adjust later if need be.

Spark plug wires. I ALWAYS run the stock metal plug covers. I've never used anything but stock LS plug wires.

The engine I got came with spiffy MSD wires, which I originally figured on leaving. I actually had already purchased metal heat shields as shown below. However, I couldn't figure out how to get them on the wires! Maybe I should get some OEM wires as you suggest and have a go.

8006_Primary__ra_p.jpg

I used a Lokar dip stick. Made a small bracket to attach to a header bolt.

Hope this helps.

What a wonder: We live in a world where there are aftermarket dipsticks! Never would have thunk it!

[C10 LS1 1968]

The plug end of the plug wire just slides inside the metal portion of the shield until it bottoms out in the tube. Don't try to push it thru the spring. I have a MSD 8.5 plug wire here in my hand and the plug boot is about 7/16" longer than a stock LS plug wire. Why I have no idea. So it will stick a bit farther than a stock plug wire.

I like the Lokar dip stick but I don't like the price. I made the mistake buying a cheap Lokar knock off and it had plastic dip stick and it was very difficult to see the oil level.

[mrallande5020]

I have a dipstick that is exactly the same as the Lokar but $30. The mounting tab is secured to my header bolt. Saved $30 as Lokar's are around $60-$75.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1