3.15 diff swap with SLS

[acspecialists]

Got the old diff out and discovered that I have to move some brackets for the SLS and sway bar. That will slow me down for sure. I know how to cut and weld so it will be no problem. No real surprises other than that. Also got my 4" MAF tune from DUDMD, can't wait to get it out on the track!
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[CPHES]

Not sure what you are doing here. The 3.15 diff itself will bolt up. SLS ( with sway bar or not). What do you need to weld for?

[clarkitect]

How long did it take you to get that rear subfame out?

[acspecialists]

It took me about four or five hours once the car was on stands. I did not drop the whole exhaust just the aftermarket mufflers. Getting the mufflers off took most of the time. In hindsight maybe I should have just dropped the whole exhaust?
The replacement subframe has all the new parts including KMAC camber bushings. I had considered just swapping the Diff but I would have to swap all of the control arms as well. I'm going to take another look today but cutting and welding the brackets shouldn't be a big deal. I just realized that you probably didn't notice that I have a complete spare subframe that I have gone through before starting the swap.

[CPHES]

So you are keeping sls? ( I don’t disagree, as I like it ). What size is that big rear bar?

[acspecialists]

I am keeping the SLS, It works so I see no need to change it. I put the H&R springs in without disconnecting the SLS, mine are EDC as well so they get pretty stiff when I push the button. The rear sway bar is 15.6mm up from 10mm. The H&R rear springs are about the same height as the old springs but the coil is thicker by maybe 30%

I ended up just swapping the subframes. The cutting and welding may have been faster but now I am sure the mounts are in the correct location. I have done some research on adjusting the SLS and most of it is just people messing around and setting it wherever they want the ride height. I think and could use confirmation that the car should sit on the ground loaded and that should be the zero point? This should eliminate any bouncing because the suspension is neutral. There is a spot on the valve that you could put a pin in which I think is closed. Then you just tighten the u-bolt on the sway bar.

[acspecialists]

Well I was working on the gingerbread yesterday and ended up cutting and welding anyway. I looked at the passenger lower control arm and noticed it had the sway bar mount. When I went to mount the sway bar the drivers side mount was missing. I guess the passenger mount was there for the headlight level sensor? I had to cut and weld the bracket for the passenger side because the new bushings were already installed in the lower control arm. Other than that all of the brakes, sensors and sway bar mounting went ahead just fine. Trying to decide if I should go fishing or finish up and get ready for Saturday at the track?

[acspecialists]

Well I didn't go fishing, got everything buttoned up. The SLS I guess is just set it where you like it. When I put the car down it just sat there all jacked up. I just realized that I could have set the car down and opened the valve and let it come to rest on the springs and then clamped it down. But I have bigger problems now. I went out for a test drive with the new Diff and tune and the transmission will not shift. I have to get it up to 4500 rpm before it will shift and then it slams into 3rd and I get trans failsafe. I hooked up INPA and got an output speed sensor fault code. I went for a drive and sure enough there is no output speed signal.