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Thread: Uro control arms - any direct experience?

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by URO Parts View Post
    Hi Ross1, you're certainly welcome to come by and visit our facility next time you're in the Los Angeles area. We'd be more than happy to have our engineers demonstrate how all of the various testing and measuring equipment in our lab works, and if you bring a dozen Krispy Kreme donuts, they'd probably be willing to present their engineering degrees.
    Reverse engineering degrees?
    Look, I understand, you have a tough row to hoe. At the end of the day you are junk peddlers, no amount of internet pandering is going to change that.
    Last edited by ross1; 05-20-2019 at 09:38 PM.

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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    Reverse engineering degrees?
    Look, I understand, you have a tough row to hoe. At the end of the day you are junk peddlers, no amount of internet pandering is going to change that.
    I know you've had bad experiences with Uro, but that doesn't mean you need to keep hammering the same thing over and over. They are a business that is trying to work on their customer image with new parts and reviews and doing everything they can to help with that image. I for one am impressed with how they are working on that image. As a small business owner I would hate to be in their position with one previous customer constantly beating them down online. How is a company going to get better without taking the exact steps they are currently taking? When the post comes up asking for direct experience maybe just post once or twice that you haven't had good success and leave it at that? Let the poster who received the parts give an accurate review based on what was received and how it wears over time. Uro is willing to let someone accurately review their current item with no profit for them other than brand recognition.

    I have only had personal experience with one of their parts and so far I'm happy with it. That part is not control arms so I didn't post about it here. Will I still be wary based on previous performance and your (and other posters) reviews? Yes.

    I guess my point is to maybe cut them a little slack and just let them work on being better when they are apparently active in doing so.

  3. #53
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    I'm going to step in here and say that I URO sent me a set of control arms to review as well. I've received the parts and hopefully next week will have a minute to install them and give a full review. I'm a relatively new guy to this scene so I don't come in with preconceived notions of any certain part manufacturer but I do certainly consider the feedback of others.

    So far, I find it refreshing that they have an active online presence and are working to improve their image from the grassroots up. They've asked a forum of (some very critical) enthusiast for real life reviews. Some things change, some things don't. From some of the users here obviously there has been some poor QC in the past, lets find out about now.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by tombo View Post
    I know you've had bad experiences with Uro, but that doesn't mean you need to keep hammering the same thing over and over. They are a business that is trying to work on their customer image with new parts and reviews and doing everything they can to help with that image. I for one am impressed with how they are working on that image. As a small business owner I would hate to be in their position with one previous customer constantly beating them down online. How is a company going to get better without taking the exact steps they are currently taking? When the post comes up asking for direct experience maybe just post once or twice that you haven't had good success and leave it at that? Let the poster who received the parts give an accurate review based on what was received and how it wears over time. Uro is willing to let someone accurately review their current item with no profit for them other than brand recognition.

    I have only had personal experience with one of their parts and so far I'm happy with it. That part is not control arms so I didn't post about it here. Will I still be wary based on previous performance and your (and other posters) reviews? Yes.

    I guess my point is to maybe cut them a little slack and just let them work on being better when they are apparently active in doing so.
    They earned it, sir.
    Drew, the fellow from Uro who is posting here is probably a fine guy but as I said has tough row to hoe. Uro's reputation is well EARNED. Don't like hearing me repeat it? Check around with any knowledgeable group.
    I'll "hammer on them" until they can demonstrate a decent product. I've not even seen an acknowledgement that change is needed.
    The market for their product is among those with either no concern for durability, exclusively price driven, or just ignorant. They excel in that segment.
    Convincing an experienced and knowledgeable group of quality with lip service is a rather Quixotic task. Having spent a previous life in sales I have empathy for Drew.
    As Honolulu succinctly stated "down on the farm" 1 of 2 was bad right out of the box. These being items expressly sent for review. Does that tell you anything?
    Last edited by ross1; 05-23-2019 at 08:19 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    These being items expressly sent for review. Does that tell you anything?
    This actually is an excellent point. It proves we have enough confidence in our current products that we don't need to "cherry-pick some good ones", or give items for destined for review a special inspection prior to shipment. We provided the items for an unbiased, honest review, and it would be wrong for us to give these items special treatment.

    Of course we're disappointed that a mis-indexed control arm bushing slipped through QC (regardless of who received it), but it won't change how we handle products sent for review. Transparency and honesty is the best policy.

  6. #56
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    Whodathunk this would go on this long? Kinda enjoying it, though.

    Drew, post 55: well spoken. Regrets that my observations stirred up such a sh*tstorm but it was posted in all honesty.

    Further, Drew: while I'm on the soapbox, such as it is, can you address the common aftermarket practice to offer free shipping to CONUS customers ordering a certain minimum dollar amount? It would appear that customers in HI and AK, no matter the order size, don't receive a discount on shipping and are thus subsidizing CONUS customers. Your comments welcome to whatever number of HI and AK customers active here.

    Ross1 Post 54, you're getting a bit stale. We've heard your opinion several times and for what it's worth, repeating it won't make it more... anything.

    Keithd, what did you do to earn a free set of control arms? Not that I need them specifically, the clonking in my front end is caused by something else, based on my disconnecting the inboard (easier) end of one of my control arms. When I did that, there was no noticeable play in the ball joint on that side, on that control arm. Note that wear on the tapered bolt end seems to be only inspectable if 1) the play is REALLY bad, or 2) you take it apart, and using a pickle fork as I did is usually a one-way effort since the fork destroys the dust boots.
    Charlie

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  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Honolulu View Post
    Further, Drew: while I'm on the soapbox, such as it is, can you address the common aftermarket practice to offer free shipping to CONUS customers ordering a certain minimum dollar amount? It would appear that customers in HI and AK, no matter the order size, don't receive a discount on shipping and are thus subsidizing CONUS customers. Your comments welcome to whatever number of HI and AK customers active here.
    We only sell wholesale, so a retailer would have the best answer for you regarding "free shipping over $X" policies.

    Your logic is sound though. No idea if the retailers are charging the actual fees, or are discounting the shipping cost to HI and AK by the average shipping cost to CONUS addresses. It would be a nice touch if their online checkout listed the actual shipping fee to AK and HI, and then displayed a discount of $10 or so if you hit the minimum order amount.

  8. #58
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    I'm with Ross. I won't put uro parts on any of my vehicles, and when I buy a vehicle, and search through the parts rdciepts I hope to see other brand parts. I did receive a bunch of spares with my e30 convertible I picked up about a month ago, and several of them are uro. I will not be installing them.
    I applaud the increased on line presence, but unless the reputation around quality improves significantly, I'll pass. Without that, all the guy here is doing is pumping his product, yet in this thread, they sent a defective unit out, what else slips by?and do you want it to fail on you 300 miles from home? No. You don't.

  9. #59
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    Everything has its place. Nobody wants/needs a mission-critical part of suspect quality, nor a suspect part that is difficult to R&R. But thrust arms? Relatively speaking and having done them before on other bimmers, these are easily replaced if/when the need may arise. They won't fail suddenly, there will be time to consider the next move.

    So if I got a Uro horn, I'd use it, whereas if main or rod bearings, notsomuch.
    Charlie

    Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to these threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same or similar problem stands on your shoulders.

  10. #60
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    I bought a Uro part once that actually fit perfect and held up fine over several years. It's the lid for a 1980s BMW fuse box. A rectangular piece of plastic. Nice job, Uro.

    I've also bought a rub strip for a door by Trucktec, another bottom feeder. So far they seem adequate.

    But control arms -- that's a tough sell. It's a harsh environment down there, and Uro has come up short in that department for years. This time is it different? Well, time will tell. I will say that I bought a set of cheap lower arms on eBay from FCP Groton years ago, and the ball joint boots just evaporated. Craziest thing I ever saw. It took FCP several years and a serious PR effort to come back from that fiasco. I don't see Uro suspension parts in their catalog anymore.

    A few years ago I got lazy and had my local tire-suspension shop install some new thrust arms. The old ones were Lems with 7 series bushings, and they lasted for about 125K miles. The shop installed TRW moog and gave me a lifetime guarantee on parts and labor. Now I don't want to get rid of the car, even though it's becoming a bit of a rustbucket.

    To me, that would be the convincer. Guarantee the parts for the duration, plus labor at the shop of the buyer's choice. Including an alignment, of course. How about it, Mr. Uro?

  11. #61
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    K, I can think of a good uro part. I bought a water pump pulley, and it was metal, seemed round enough, and was inexpensive. I was changing because my plastic oem one had blown up.

    Say no to control arms.

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    Quote Originally Posted by summitp View Post
    seemed round enough

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    Quote Originally Posted by summitp View Post
    K, I can think of a good uro part. I bought a water pump pulley, and it was metal, seemed round enough, and was inexpensive. I was changing because my plastic oem one had blown up.

    Say no to control arms.
    I almost bought one of those once. The BMW pulley was ~$20 from the dealer so after having one very simple, inanimate and ostensibly fool proof Uro metal part(Jag t-stat housing) give me grief I spent the extra couple $$. Glad it worked for you.

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    Hehe, Actually laughing out loud now. I do not have any uro parts on my current BMWs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrgraybeard View Post
    I bought a Uro part once that actually fit perfect and held up fine over several years. It's the lid for a 1980s BMW fuse box. A rectangular piece of plastic. Nice job, Uro.

    To me, that would be the convincer. Guarantee the parts for the duration, plus labor at the shop of the buyer's choice. Including an alignment, of course. How about it, Mr. Uro?
    Our URO Premium parts are actually superior to OEM in design or materials (or both), and are covered by an unlimited-mileage lifetime warranty. And we have paid labor claims in cases where we verified that a part was defective. As you can imagine, providing a good part for the money and satisfying customers is MUCH preferable to replacing parts under warranty and paying labor claims.


    Quote Originally Posted by summitp View Post
    K, I can think of a good uro part. I bought a water pump pulley, and it was metal, seemed round enough, and was inexpensive. I was changing because my plastic oem one had blown up.
    A quick scan of Amazon reviews shows our aluminum pulleys have average reviews of 4.4 out of 5 stars (pulley 11511436590-PRM has almost 100 reviews), 4.3 stars, 5 stars, and 5 stars.

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    Quote Originally Posted by URO Parts View Post
    Our URO Premium parts are actually superior to OEM in design or materials (or both), and are covered by an unlimited-mileage lifetime warranty. And we have paid labor claims in cases where we verified that a part was defective. As you can imagine, providing a good part for the money and satisfying customers is MUCH preferable to replacing parts under warranty and paying labor claims.




    A quick scan of Amazon reviews shows our aluminum pulleys have average reviews of 4.4 out of 5 stars (pulley 11511436590-PRM has almost 100 reviews), 4.3 stars, 5 stars, and 5 stars.
    Oh, please
    Really? So you will pay for labor when this stuff fails?digging a hole.jpg


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  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by URO Parts View Post
    Our URO Premium parts are actually superior to OEM in design or materials (or both)
    I am *highly* skeptical of this claim, and look forward to seeing hard data to back it up, or even make it sound plausible.

  18. #68
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    Our URO Premium parts are actually superior to OEM in design or materials (or both)


    To say something is superior in design and/or materials you should at least know what the BMW original design and/or materials are (not just "aluminum" or "steel", but specific grade and compliance standard).

    Do you have the BMW design intent to compare against?

    What aspects of the design have been improved upon?

    Can you provide feedback relating to the quality assurance process at BMW (OEM) compared to URO?

    In what respect are the materials superior? Can you elaborate on the BMW (OEM) material certification process compared to URO?

    Can you describe how a URO part is tested to ensure it meets the design requirements?

    And please don't use the plastic vs aluminum pulley example. The plastic pulley was designed by BMW to perform a function for a certain amount of time at a certain cost (the cost to BMW, not what's on amazon now). If it met those requirements then it's a good design and quality part. If someone makes one with a stronger material with a higher expected life span, that doesn't automatically make it a better design since the associated cost is likely higher. When a car manufacture like BMW designs a car, there are many competing requirements that have to be met. If they designed the car to last forever that would be a pretty bad business model. Think of it from BMW's perspective, if the plastic part meets the functional requirements, will last the time they want it to last and costs them X amount cheaper than an aluminum part (which will also meets the functional and durability requirements), they will use the lower cost option since they have thousands of cars to build.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by q20v View Post
    The plastic pulley was designed by BMW to perform a function for a certain amount of time at a certain cost (the cost to BMW, not what's on amazon now). If it met those requirements then it's a good design and quality part. If someone makes one with a stronger material with a higher expected life span, that doesn't automatically make it a better design since the associated cost is likely higher.
    I disagree. "Good design" and "quality part" are not the same as "good business practice". Planned obsolescence is never a good thing from a functional perspective. I guess that depends on whether you see a car primarily as a product to profit from, or a tool to use and enjoy esthetically. Guess which side I'm on.

    BMW has done asinine things, some of which the aftermarket has improved on. While I see your point regarding the claim of "exceeds OE specifications", I'll consider a claim of "superior" with due diligence.

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    Quote Originally Posted by q20v View Post
    And please don't use the plastic vs aluminum pulley example. The plastic pulley was designed by BMW to perform a function for a certain amount of time at a certain cost (the cost to BMW, not what's on amazon now). If it met those requirements then it's a good design and quality part. If someone makes one with a stronger material with a higher expected life span, that doesn't automatically make it a better design since the associated cost is likely higher.
    Aluminum "URO Premium" parts vs failure-prone plastic OEM parts is actually a perfect example, because our metal upgrade usually retails for the same or less than the plastic OEM version. The shop or enthusiast gets a superior part for the same or less money, even though our profit margin is lower than if we provided the plastic version. It's better to sell lots of URO Premium parts that have a competitive advantage at a lower margin, than fewer high-margin plastic parts that everyone else is selling.

    Since you asked, here are some of the items for BMW (we have additional URO Premium items for other European makes):

    Oil Cooler / Alt. Bracket Gasket Upgrade (2004-2010 BMW 5-Series, 2004-2007 BMW 6-Series, 2002-2008 BMW 7-Series)

    Control Arm w/ Metal Ball Joint Upgrade (1999-2006 BMW 3-Series, 2003-2008 BMW Z4)

    Intake Valley Pan Upgrade (1993 - 2005 BMW 5/7/8-Series, X5, and Z8 with M62 V8 engine)

    Aluminum Heater Pipes (1998-2006 BMW M52 Engine, 2001-2006 M54 Engine)

    Coolant Transfer Pipe Repair Kit (2002-2010 BMW 5/6/7-Series and X5 with V8 engine, 2003-2014 BMW 7-Series with V12 engine)

    Aluminum Engine Pulley (1991-2010 BMW 3/5/6/7/8-Series, X5, Z3, and Z4)

    Aluminum Transmission Pan w/ Replaceable Filter
    2002-2008 5/6/7-Series or X5 with GA6HP26Z Automatic Transmission
    2003-2008 3/5-Series, X5, or Z4 with GA6HP19Z Automatic Transmission
    2010-2018 2/3/4/5/6-Series with GA8HP45Z or GA8HP70Z Automatic Transmission


    Since URO Premium parts maintain the same internal and external dimensions as the OEM, our upgraded metal parts are going to be much stronger and hold up to heat cycling and oil exposure much better than plastic. It would be a pointless exercise to do destructive comparison testing, since it doesn't matter if our metal part is twice as strong as the plastic OEM part, or five times as strong. Same goes for gasket material. If a URO Premium gasket has the same dimensions as OEM but is Viton or high-temp silicone, and the OEM went with cheap RTV, the upgrade is self-evident. That's why URO Premium items have a lifetime warranty. What's the warranty on the plastic OEM version?

  21. #71
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    You're preaching to the choir regarding materials as such, but it doesn't address manufacturing quality that Ross among others has brought up. I'd rather have a well-made plastic pulley than a poorly-made metal one.

    I'm still eager to hear your $.02 regarding the manufacturing difficulty of rubber compared to metal (see previous post).

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    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    I'd rather have a well-made plastic pulley than a poorly-made metal one.
    This. Arguing that a part is better just because it's metal vs plastic is like saying a $100 pot metal pistol is better than a Glock...

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    Regarding the alum pulley, surface finish will have a lot to do with belt life. I have no problem with the plastic ones. I've only had to replace them after water pump failures caused collateral damages.
    The OE pulley is ~$28 on line, I pay ~$2 less from my dealer. I found several sellers of Uro's aluminum one on E-bay, cheapest one shipped was pennies under $27.
    I've had experience with two of Uro's cast metal items. The Jag t-stat housing which I've already discussed* and another t-stat housing on an M52(bought this way). I recently had to replace the head on the M52 and the t-stat housing's mating surface was corroded, the head's was not. Not terrible, I cleaned it up and re-installed, no leaks. No idea how old it was, coolant was clean. This is a totally inanimate item without so much as a threaded hole, one surface that needs to be reasonably flat and something resembling round to accept two radiator hoses. Should be fool proof. Time will tell.
    Regarding the coolant transfer pipe for the V-8s. Certainly a labor saver over the "correct" repair. Do I want to trust my engine's cooling system to half a dozen O-rings from a company notorious for craptastic rubber parts? F NO!
    * I recently spoke with the Jag's new owner and he reported excellent service from the car(I had the pleasure of dealing with all it's foibles) aside "something with the thermostat". I'm not making this up.
    Last edited by ross1; 06-04-2019 at 10:05 AM.

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    ^ Haven't received complaints of our aluminum pulleys wearing out belts, but if anyone here has experienced it, please let us know.

    Guilty as charged on some of our Jaguar thermostat housings sold around 2011/2012 leaking at the end cap due to a sharp, rough end on the casting. It was one of our early products that made it into the product line without being fully vetted, back when we had only one overworked engineer and not much of a testing lab. Many years ago we added a manufacturing step to flatten and smooth the end of the casting where it contacts the seal, which solved the problem. (If anyone has one of the early housings and would like to exchange it for the new one, just contact us via our web site.) Agree that the issue should have been resolved before we started selling them, and not a few years later. That sort of thing is why we upped our engineering staff from one to ten engineers, and built an R&D and testing lab.

    Regarding the collapsible coolant pipe, ask techs at European service shops what they think about them. We hear nothing but great things, and people would be shocked by how many of these we sell every year. And if you think about it, the only critical seal in the kit is the EPDM front seal at the timing cover, which we provide with a nice chamfer to make insertion of the pipe easier. The redundant triple o-rings between the two sections of pipe are total overkill because the pipe is surrounded by coolant and simply directs flow, but it looks and feels impressive - so why not. https://www.uroparts.com/uro/picture...1439975prm.pdf
    Last edited by URO Parts; 06-04-2019 at 12:28 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Honolulu View Post
    Keithd, what did you do to earn a free set of control arms? Not that I need them specifically, the clonking in my front end is caused by something else, based on my disconnecting the inboard (easier) end of one of my control arms. When I did that, there was no noticeable play in the ball joint on that side, on that control arm. Note that wear on the tapered bolt end seems to be only inspectable if 1) the play is REALLY bad, or 2) you take it apart, and using a pickle fork as I did is usually a one-way effort since the fork destroys the dust boots.
    I received a set of upper control arms (aka thrust arms) same as Honolulu.

    I apologize for the delay, I got the URO arms installed fairly quickly however on the test drive the car blew a power steering line to the box which is not an overly pleasant job to replace. However, see the pictures attached of the new arms. The new arms appear good quality, nut/thread protectors on the ball joint with green plastic pieces. The ones I removed from the car had white plastic pieces, and did not have any major visual defects other then some stress/fatigure cracks in the rubber.

    Although this was my first time changing these they're not overly difficult, you're going to need more tools than an oil change, but the fact this is an e34 forum would indicate most have a decent tool set and wrenching experience. I didn't take pictures of the process because honestly, if you can't figure out thrust arms it's probably not safe to be working on front end components of your car, and I mean no disrespect by that. Jack the car up, unbolt what needs to be unbolted, couple whacks with a pickle fork and the old one is removed. The driver's side ball joint was a bit stubborn and needed a bit of heat and a few extra hammer whacks to pop out but nothing major. Double check that the R goes on the right and the L goes on the left and put them back together. Lower car back down and torque the bushing bolt.

    The reason I replaced these was because my car was experiencing a light but noticeable shimmy at approx 100-120 kph. Not quite a death wobble but annoying for any trip over 10 minute on the highway. It's a 25 year old car with 25 year old rims, and I'm not exactly sure what's been replaced suspension wise during it's first 20 years or how many curbs have been bumped but the previous owner did take good care of it, so I figured I'd start with the easy, most likely problems and work my way in. Wheels are balanced with new tires, so thrust arms were next. Upon replacing them, even though the ones that came out had no major visual defects, I'd say 95% of my shimmy is gone, leaving me with the tiniest vibration that I'm not even sure actually exists, it may just be my over vigilance, or any one of the other 25 year old suspension parts. The front struts look original so they'll certainly be on the agenda in the future.

    Blowing the steering line was also a blessing in disguise because a) I was able to replace the driver's motor mount which was completely broken in half and b) I was able to adjust the box which significantly increases steering feel.

    So to summarize, these are simple parts, there's really only two questions to be asked/answered for a review
    -Did the fix the problem : YES
    -Did they last: obviously unknown at this point. Only time will tell.

    As I mentioned before, I'm new to e34's. Had it not been for this thread, I wouldn't have known anything good or bad about URO parts. I used a URO valley pan a few years back and again, it's a simple part, fixed the leak and thus far is holding up. I do value and take into account the opinions and experiences (both good and bad) of others, however based on my personal experience thus far I would recommend and will continue to use URO parts.
    IMG_6998.jpgIMG_6997.jpg
    Last edited by Keithd; 06-04-2019 at 08:38 PM.

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