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Thread: E36 M3, from dual purpose to track only

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Central, MD
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    1995 M3
    Well, decided to get rid of window motors. This allowed me to remove body electronics control module. Yea! Only computers left are; DME, ABS, and instrument cluster (although I don't need that). Down to 11 fuses!

    I'm keeping the OEM windows and tracks for now. Using a bungie strap to hold them up during transport on open trailer.
    IMG_20190910_143211.jpg

    IMG_20190910_164528.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    Not that much weight, but getting rid of this stuff feels good.

    IMG_20190910_172709.jpg

  2. #52
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    Aug 2012
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    1995 M3
    Have decided to make windows removable at the track.
    Working on best way to keep them in place during its time on the open trailer. I-bar or hangers or such.

    FYI, removing coupe door windows and all associated hardware, motors, and wiring saves 40-42lbs.

  3. #53
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    1995 M3
    Here's all the hardware for the windows, not including the motors.

    IMG_20190918_134338.jpg

    Decided to go with the usual home made hangers for the windows.

    IMG_20190918_161639.jpg

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Bergenfield, NJ
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    967
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    '99 M3, '10 X5 35d
    Did you have to drill out rivets on the mechanism?

    My driver side was held in with bolts but the passenger side was riveted to the door.

  5. #55
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    Yep. Both sides were riveted.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Moved my AiM MyChron3 around a bit, made a new switch panel (Kydex), and cleaned up some wiring rats nests behind the dash.
    It feels like the wiring chore never ends.

    IMG_20190919_163228.jpg

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Bay Area
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    433
    My Cars
    E36M
    Are you towing your car?

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Central, MD
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    1995 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by golgo13 View Post
    Are you towing your car?
    Yep. Open trailer.

  9. #59
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    Mar 2017
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    Bay Area
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    E36M
    I'm super jealous. I want to remove my glass to save weight.

  10. #60
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    Aug 2012
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    40lbs, sitting there laughing at you.

    (Bluntly, I'm not SURE it's worth it. Pushing a button to raise the window isn't just a luxury.)

  11. #61
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    Aug 2012
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    Central, MD
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    1995 M3
    Deleted the battery jump box. It's the little things.

    IMG_20190928_151614.jpg

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Springfield, IL
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    1,820
    My Cars
    '95m3(Avus)/996tt/4.8is
    Nothing more fun than weight removal. Cheap, makes you faster, makes the car more fun to toss, and easy to tinker with when your bored!

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by olemiss540 View Post
    Nothing more fun than weight removal. Cheap, makes you faster, makes the car more fun to toss, and easy to tinker with when your bored!
    Exactly!!

  14. #64
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    Aug 2012
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    1995 M3
    Got around to:
    - removing sound gunk from rear seat area, and cleaned up / wrapped wiring.
    - re-routing battery wire so passengers won't stomp it (temporary, as I hope to install a light-weight battery to engine bay over the winter).

    IMG_20191017_132150.resized.jpg


    IMG_20191017_132145.resized.jpg

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
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    471
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    E36 M3, jzxE28
    Quote Originally Posted by aeronaut View Post
    3 track days on RTD shifter and poly mounts.

    I like the shifter. I'd do it again. But it's not a religious experience. Next weekend I'll be on the track I use 2nd a few times (Summit Shenandoah). So I'll find out if I wish I'd paid for reverse lock-out.
    The poly mounts add tons of NVH, of course, and completely change the engine noise inside the car. But, I now know where a 'clunk' that I've had for over year is coming from. lol.
    How do shifts from 2-3 and 3-2 feel?
    I have the AKG Stage 3 and hate going 3 to 2. (drift car but same rules apply to shifting really.)
    instagram @andyitslit

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Press22 View Post
    How do shifts from 2-3 and 3-2 feel?
    I have the AKG Stage 3 and hate going 3 to 2. (drift car but same rules apply to shifting really.)
    2-3 is good. I'd say 3-2 is better than the previous short shifter I had in there, but if I had reverse lock-out, it'd be even better.
    No doubt, 3-2, and 4-5 are somewhat slower shifts compared to 3-4, and 4-3. But all better than stock or with a SSK.

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    Bay Area
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    E36M
    I have the RTD w/ reverse lockout. 3 -> 2 is painless.

  18. #68
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    Aug 2012
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    Central, MD
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    1995 M3
    At last event, 4th gear started popping into neutral. Ug. And for a while, have been wondering where a loud clunk is coming from. Sounds like trans, so I'm hoping it's 'just' the dual mass flywheel. Anyway, picked up a used transmission and bought a gripforce 'stage 1' PP, clutch, and flywheel.

    What happens when you wrap 40lbs of metal in a brown paper bag, and hand it to an angry government worker to carry 3000 mi?

    7 of 8 flywheel bolts delivered, and (luckily, all cosmetic):

    flywheeldamage.jpg

    PPdamage.jpg

  19. #69
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    Aug 2012
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    Update on clutch. from gripforce. Gripforce sent 8.8 grade flywheel bolts that need to be tightened to 105Nm, which is out of spec for an 8.8 grade bolt. Crap.

    Guess I'll order some higher grade bolts from McMaster.

    EDIT:
    For the record,
    OEM dualmass flywheel, 25.0 lbs
    Gripforce single chromoly steel flywheel, 14.5 lbs
    Last edited by aeronaut; 10-28-2019 at 03:33 PM.

  20. #70
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    Aug 2012
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    With the trans out, easy access to those heater hoses that need to go.
    Fabbed up a blockoff plate, installed, and cut the necessary hoses.
    Gonna install a 90 deg fitting to hook up what's left.

    IMG_20191029_122307.jpg

    IMG_20191029_125326.jpg

  21. #71
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    Aug 2012
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    1995 M3
    Ok, I could not find a definitive post on OBD1 fuel evap tank and charcoal canister. Here's what I now know.

    charcoal.jpg

    OBD1 charcoal canister above.
    Tube 3: to atmosphere
    Tube 2: from (or to) rear fuel evap tank under rear wheel well.
    Tube 1: to engine throttle body

    expansion.jpg

    Tube 2: to (or from) charcoal canister. It's the bigger of the 3 plastic tubes shown. I assume the others marked F, are fuel in and out of fuel tank.

    So, I've deleted the charcoal canister, removed the blue line (2) as far back as I can (some of it is captured under the rear seat panel). I'm going to connect a filter to the rubber hose that was connected to 2.

    I don't see any reason to run a looped piece of hose as I see some people do, if I'm leaving the evap tank attached.

    If I delete the evap tank, then yea, I guess a looped hose would prevent any fuel from sloshing out. But if I never fill past 3/4 tank, I doubt that would happen.

    I don't see any need for an evap tank if 1) i've deleted the charcoal canister and 2) I never fill above 3/4 tank.
    Make sense?
    Last edited by aeronaut; 10-30-2019 at 06:07 PM.

  22. #72
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    Deleting OBDI fuel expansion/evap tank, or what ever it is. I'll never fill fuel tank above 3/4 full, and charcoal canister already deleted.

    There are 3 lines:
    1) vent line to charcoal canister. (Cut/removed)
    2) Line from fuel tank to expansion tank
    3) Line from expansion tank to fuel tank

    I'll plug either 2 or 3, and vent the one I don't plug. I haven't decided which one is the right one to vent, 2 or 3. I'm not sure it matters. But I'm guessing plug #2, vent #3, because #3 would be located higher in the fuel tank.

    IMG_20191111_182822.jpg
    Last edited by aeronaut; 11-11-2019 at 11:15 PM.

  23. #73
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    Feb 2005
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    Bergenfield, NJ
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    '99 M3, '10 X5 35d
    I am OBD II but I went through the same process. On mine there is a breather line that goes from the tank to the top the fuel filler hose; it also had a branch line that connects at the same junction that connected to the expansion tank. I left the main breather and the expansion tank line as is, and deleted/plugged everything else. I then put a discriminator valve on the hose that ran to the expansion tank and ran some extra hose, looped several times, and terminated it in the rear bumper. I also put a crankcase breather filter on the end of the hose.
    Last edited by BlackHawkRacing; 11-12-2019 at 10:28 AM.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackHawkRacing View Post
    I am OBD II but I went through the same process. On mine there is a breather line that goes from the tank to the top the fuel filler hose; it also had a branch line that connects at the same junction that connected to the expansion tank. I left the main breather and the expansion tank line as is, and deleted/plugged everything else. I then put a discriminator valve on the hose that ran to the expansion tank and ran some extra hose, looped several times, and terminated it in the rear bumper. I also put a crankcase breather filter on the end of the hose.
    I plan to do basically the same. Luckily mines a touch simpler. I'm going to run a line from (my) #2 or #3 to a breather filter, and yea, probably put a few loops in it just in case.

  25. #75
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    1995 M3
    Fuel expansion tank delete done.

    Summary:
    - removed charcoal canister, and associated hoses/tubes/wires.
    - removed expansion tank
    - there are 3 hoses connected to the expansion tank; to charcoal canister (removed/cut), from fuel tank (to top of expansion tank; plugged), to fuel tank (from bottom of expansion tank; vented through breather filter).

    I routed the vented/filtered hose into truck temporarily. I want to see if it ever fills with fuel. I don't think it will if I never fill the tank. There's zero fuel smell while the car is sitting. I'll eventually move it to the space where the expansion tank was.

    IMG_20191112_122917.resized.jpg

    IMG_20191112_123228.resized.jpg

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