Thanks, good info.
Chase Bays PS kit update.
UG, the high pressure hose seems to be seeping fluid along the length of the hose. It looks to be pulling some waxy film with it.
I've emailed CB, but I'm already invested in this, so will probably just remake the high pressure hose using Erols AN or such.
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Yeah, that's certainly not what a PS hose should look like. Sucks when you have to customize/modify a "custom" product but like you said, you're invested at this point. Otherwise looks like you've been gettin after it!
I just took another look at it to confirm a few things before ordering earl's, and this is the hose that goes from the steering rack to the reservoir. It's not even the "highest" pressure hose (pump-steering rack hose).
I'm betting they used cheapy cheap hoses for the to/from reservoir hoses thinking they wouldn't matter.
Just very odd.
Last edited by aeronaut; 06-23-2020 at 05:38 PM.
Chase Bays responded quickly. They say they've seen this before, and it's simply the adhesive they use to keep the outer nylon braid from moving around. They did say it usually only occurs on systems that don't have a PS fluid cooler. I do not.
I recommended they choose a glue color different than the color of many ATF's.
I'm convinced the right answer to the fuel vent is to use the OE expansion tank.
That said, this is now a "I'm going to win" experiment for me.
Funny, last time on track, there was an E36 race car in front of me that was POURING fuel out the right rear fender.
Anyway, my current attempt. Basically, T-ing into the over-flow feedback, and using large diameter tubing to create a small volumn "fuel-air separator".
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Also, tried to makeshift a boot cover for the RTD shifter, including using the OEM gasket. Didn't like it. So, bought a shifter boot cover.
The shifter hole in the tunnel is directly above the exhaust tubing. Hopefully, this stops the hot air from pouring into the cabin.
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This, honestly, is my biggest concern. I am ODBII so it is slightly different but, my stock system has a breather that runs from the tank to the top of the fuel filler neck; it feeds into the fuel filler neck then also has a nipple that ran to the expansion tank. I currently, have several feet of hose looped up top, then running to a roll over valve at the bottom of the rear bumper, just behind the wheel liner. I followed directions James Clay has posted years ago but am nervous about what might come out of it.
Here is the setup I used in my car, so far with good results
Fuel vent lines by F birch, on Flickr
That's good news!
The setup I posted above worked well this last weekend. I caught a hint of smell of fuel in the car during one session, but could have easily come from a lead car. But, ZERO sign of any gas spillage on the exterior of the car. So, I'm going to fill to 3/4 tank and see how that goes. If no signs of spilled fuel, I'm calling it a win.
Some temperature numbers from this last weekend. Highs during the days were 93. Sunny and humid. I wish I'd measured track temps.
- On track, my coolant temps would run 180-197 all day. 15-25 minute sessions. This is at least 15 deg lower than before I installed the hood vent. And, I have a higher geared diff now, so average RPMs are higher. Big thumbs up to a hood vent, they work really well on these cars.
- I have no cooling loop or radiator on my steering rack/ PS fluid path (chase bays reservoir ,OEM metal cooling loop removed). I took temps with an IR gauge a few times and saw 145F on the steering rack, and 225F on the PS reservoir. I have nothing to compare that to, but seems reasonable and I don't think I have a reason to add a cooling loop.
- I don't have a oil temp gauge, but the oil pan measured 181F (IR temps on external surface), after sitting in paddock for 3-5 min.
Nice! Those all sound pretty reasonable for such hot ambient conditions.
That's what I'm thinkin too!
A few updates.
Update on tune here:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...7#post30522097
Short version;
With the 22RPD tune, I never got what I asked for, and at wide-open throttle, 4th gear or 5th gear, 5000-7000rpm, AFRs look to be (dangerously?) high: 14 to 14.6.
So, RKtunes it is!!
Power steering pump gave it up at last event. Rebuilt installed. If I never smell, touch, or taste ATF again, I'll be happy.
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Battery switch became intermittent. Replaced with a "QuickCar" version. Much more substantial. BUT...doesn't have the posts for the resistive bleed for the alternator ("ON" when main battery connector is OFF.). Ug.
But, this is what I have at least for now.
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Nice
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“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
― George Orwell
Yesterday, ran one front with, and one front without, the OEM "brake duct". You know, the one that dumps air kinda pointed toward the rotor area.
Basically, no difference. Not a surprise.
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Finally, a weekend with no drama with the Power Steering system! I think I'm finally happy with it all. (Chase Bays reservoir and lines, rebuilt P/S pump, E46 330 rack, MRT roll center kit that increases steering ratio.)
Virb Ultra installed, power-on/Record-on via AiM MXm @ 30mph, auto-off/record-off under 30mph. We'll see if it all works. It's amazing how often this simple stuff is unreliable.
I may have the camera mounted a touch low, I'll know after this weekend.
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And don't hate, a homemade Hot Air Intake. Proof of concept. Might build a BW race style box, or use this one as a template for a Titanium version (fun welding projects, mainly).
This side of the car doesn't have an OEM brake duct, so between that and the other holes in the front grill, this area should get decent cool/fresh air once moving. Might buy a Spec e36 headlight/air intake.
The other big advantage, more room to reach the P/S reservoir.
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Last edited by aeronaut; 08-06-2020 at 04:02 PM.
E36 M3 journal https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Build-Journal
F80 M3 journal https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1734421
Miata K24 build https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...ine-up-105885/
I went with the supertech HR100 DR/DM springs. The local GTS2 guys swear buy them, but more importantly one of the local racers / sellers gave me a smack deal on a set. So, jumped on it.
I'm 100% convinced OEM springs would be a perfect match too, Schrick responded to the question quickly via email.
After the chunk of money I threw at this engine to fix the oil starvation issue, which showed up as lifter wear, I was STILL getting just a little lifter tic after a hard session on a hot day. (Oil pressures looked ok.) Nothing nearly as bad as prior to the $$$, but jeeez. Was running no-name 10w40 regular oil. Changed to 5w50 synthetic. 2 weekends, hard runs, hot. No lifter tic.
My F'ing Chase Bays P/S hoses came loose again last weekend. F.
I'm not sure what's going on. This seems a bit crazy. It was the high pressure hose again, but this time the AN-M12 adapters came loose, not the AN-AN fittings. I was quite persistent, careful, and measured a few months ago when I removed, inspected, and tightened EVERY hose and adapter.
So, now, all adapters drilled and safety wired:
ANadapter.jpg
I’m just running overfill, But I found that Mobil 1 - 15w50 works best for my S50. I tried Redline - 10w40 as that’s what we run in the F80, but that showed lifter tick right away. Was shocked with the Redline as the viscosity number was 0.1 point higher per their data sheets.
I've always been a fan of run what ever oil is on sale. I guess I can't say that anymore.
Overfilling didn't fix the problem for me. Doubling the cost/qt did.
I'll probably try M1 15w50, that seems to be a bit cheaper than the 5w50 stuff, of course.
Got my local dyno tune done at Tuning Tech FS (Frank), Crofton MD.
I'll just say this, I'll never do another off-the-shelf tune.
The list of things in the off-the-shelf tune 'not the way I expected' is long.
Target idle speed, wrong. (I guess there's idle rpm, and then a target the engine shoots for on decel, and the second one was wrong.)
Speed governor, wrong.
Ign Timing "very aggressive for 91 Oct, looks like 93 Oct ", wrong.
RPM redline fuel cut-off ramp started at 7050, hard redline at 7200. Not quite wrong, but misleading.
Got another 15 HP in mid-range, and 12HP peak, to boot.
Decided to install aerocatches.
This is just orange tape, but will probably paint them fluorescent.
The idea being, if down all good. If up I can see them from drivers seat.
Unfortunately, the aerocatches have a "almost down but not secured" position.
I just must never put them in that position.
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