E36 M3, from dual purpose to track only

[aeronaut]

Got another chip from 22RPD/Zach. Car now starts and runs! However, idle seems to be at stock 750rpm rather than requested increase to 850. That makes me wonder what tune I have. Another exchange started with Zach. We'll see what happens.

I've run it for about 3 min at 2000-2500rpm. I'll do that again after I fix my coolant leak at the thermostat housing.
Then run for 5 min or so cycling between idle and 4000.

[bimmerboy318]

Got another chip from 22RPD/Zach. Car now starts and runs! However, idle seems to be at stock 750rpm rather than requested increase to 850. That makes me wonder what tune I have. Another exchange started with Zach. We'll see what happens.

I've run it for about 3 min at 2000-2500rpm. I'll do that again after I fix my coolant leak at the thermostat housing.
Then run for 5 min or so cycling between idle and 4000.

Tstat housing coolant leak? Did you get a URO aluminum housing? If so, the orange gasket that comes with it is the reason it leaks... about triple the thickness it should be. Get an OE Elring and it will seal fine. I already did this.

[aeronaut]

Naaa...can't remember which brand housing I have, but it's a composite OE type. I may have reused the gasket. That, and I know I over torqued the larger bolt at the top that also holds the engine lift bracket, so the housing may even be cracked, gonna dig into it tomorrow. I have spare gasket, so if the housing's not cracked I should be good to go.

Thanks for the heads up.

[aeronaut]

Well, my replacement BMW thermostat housing lasted 2 years. Ug.
URO metal, or Febi plastic? I guess I'll try a metal one.

[bimmerboy318]

Well, my replacement BMW thermostat housing lasted 2 years. Ug.
URO metal, or Febi plastic? I guess I'll try a metal one.

I asked the same question and went URO aluminum. But whatever you do make sure to pay the extra $1.50 and buy an Elring orange gasket. I was surprised at the better than expected quality based on some older comments. They even machine the mating surface after casting. If you don’t have already, consider an aluminum water pump pulley as well.

[aeronaut]

URO aluminum does have a pretty nice machined finish. And it's pretty flat. Installed, no leaks. Yet.

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[aeronaut]

Just ordered an antigravity battery. I had not had good luck with other name brands of LiPo batteries (thermal run away), but I think I know what happened, and can prevent it in the future.
Will mount it under the hood. And save about 30lbs.

And, by the way, they are on sale, 25% off.

[aeronaut]

Installed BimmerWorld bearing-based RTABs.
Ideally, they'd include some shims to take up the space between the screw-on inner flange and the control arm. But, it pressed in about the same as an OEM bushing, so I doubt it's moving.

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[BlackHawkRacing]

Installed BimmerWorld bearing-based RTABs.
Ideally, they'd include some shims to take up the space between the screw-on inner flange and the control arm. But, it pressed in about the same as an OEM bushing, so I doubt it's moving.

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It should sit flush against the control arm. It looks like the housing is pressed in all the way, did you by chance check if the bearing needs to be pressed in any more?

For reference, post 61 in my thread, about half way through the post. Was flush upon initial install and when i changed out the bearing.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...3#post30362683

Also for note if you ever refresh the bearing, these use the Outer, Rear Lower Control Arm Ball joint from the E9x - Part #33326792553

[aeronaut]

Thanks for the part numbers!

The small space is simply due to the fact the control arm is slightly narrower than the inside spacing of the bearing carrier. (See pic below)
I'm pretty sure it won't move. It pressed in with the usual amount of force close to what the OEM bushings press in with, and the OEM bushings aren't captured by anything other than that press-in friction. (Some of these spherical RTABs don't even have a '2 sided' flange, only one. AKG for example.)

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[aeronaut]

Got my antigravity battery in, fabbed up a new battery box, moved to engine bay and mechanically installed.
Electrical tomorrow.

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[bimmerboy318]

Very nice! Question, the stock alternator and wiring charges these lithium batteries ok?

[aeronaut]

That's the million dollar question. I've convinced myself I'm willing to try.
Of course, all the documentation from antigravity says everything works using OEM alternator and wiring for 'most' cars post 1990-ish.
The big issue is over-voltage charging, it destroys the battery. Antigravity has under voltage, temp, and over voltage built in protection (as others do). But they can only do so much against over voltage.
I have a fairly new alternator, so I know the regulator is healthy.
Others on here have seemed to have good luck with LiPo and antigravity.

[fbirch]

I've run a Braille G20 (small, Li-ion) in mine for the past couple years with no issues whatsoever.

[jakermac]

Stick a digital voltmeter on the posts of the battery with the engine running and the battery fully charged. A fully charged LiFePo battery is 14.4 volts. The Valeo alternator in my 93 325is had a max voltage output of 14.2 volts which takes a LiFePo battery to about 90% charge, and that has served me well for about 8-9 years.

*** Edit: forgot to mention, when checking alternator output with DVM, raise your RPMs to about 3,000. ***

[aeronaut]

Thanks JM, good idea getting an exact output voltage on the alternator. I measured it a while back, but didn't note its output.

[aeronaut]

Installing hood vent. Just some touch up painting to finish up.

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[Matt330LS]

What hood vent did you go with? Looks good.

[aeronaut]

From vraptorspeedworks.com
Their web page is a little scattered, but these are the "ez install for BMW E36 center louvers". $99 + shipping.
Thanks!

[aeronaut]

Got the antigravity battery fully installed, and the master cutoff switch along with the alternator bleed resistor.

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[aeronaut]

Update on the MRT roll center correction kit. I had stated before that 1) they added enough toe that I needed to shorten the tie-rods, and that 2) the wrong spacers were sent.
#1, I was wrong. Once everything tightened down, the stock tie-rods provide toe within the needed range.
#2. MRT has provided excellent customer service. They asked for the part # of my kingpin, actually ordered one, and confirmed they did not provide the right spacer. So future folks shouldn't have this issue. They also offered me a refund, a discount on a future purchase, etc.

[aeronaut]

Plastic gas pedal cracked at flexi-joints. Oddly, I have spare time, so fab up an aluminum one. Holes Of Speed will be added.

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[bimmerboy318]

Plastic gas pedal cracked at flexi-joints. Oddly, I have spare time, so fab up an aluminum one. Holes Of Speed will be added.

IMG_20200408_165154.SMALL.resized.jpeg

I have to admit that I only heel-toe when taking it easy because i'm afraid i'll put down too much brake and spin it. However, if you are a heel-toe'r, i'd think about adding an extension on the pedal that lets it stick out maybe 1/2" more.

[aeronaut]

It's actually about 3/8" closer to the brake pedal in the mid section of the gas pedal. The pedal is also a tad higher (closer to the driver).
I'm having a bit of a problem with the upper hinge binding..it's a cheap piano hinge, and when any lateral force is put on it it binds up. I'll look for a precision hinge, or consider fabbing one up.

Keep practicing that heal-toe, it'll come!

[aeronaut]

Didn't like the piano hinges I used on the previous version, not very smooth.

Completely different design. Steel frame, fabricated hinges, and I'll use delrin to make a pedal and heal-toe pad, which will be adjustable.

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