E36 M3, from dual purpose to track only

[aeronaut]

After a few times, I'm getting this string alignment thing down. I think I'm finally faster than loading the car and taking to the alignment shop (assuming the settings start out close to what I want).
My process is now very repeatable. And, it's kinda fun knowing I can play with settings a little bit.
I'll probably re-measure sometime during the off-season, then go straight to the shop and double check (I want to get a dyno at the shop also and compare it to a run a few years ago at same shop).

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[aeronaut]

It seems every 2-4 days something happens to my power steering system. This time, the Chase Bays high pressure AN fitting started leaking. Luckily, I had purchased high pressure hose and fittings from Pegasus to replace it. I won't be recommending the CB power steering reservoir and hoses to anyone.

IMG_20201103_144054.resized.jpg

[aeronaut]

Kicking off one of my winter projects.
The Brembo/Porsche calipers are made for thicker rotors than the E46 M3 rotors used on the E36 conversion.
So the "locator pins" are too short, which means the pad can slip under the locator pin before all the pad material is worn. (This shouldn't happen with zero pad material.)
My fix is to remove and replace the locator pins with longer pins.
Measuring everything, I think I'll get 2-3 days more pad life by lengthening the locator pins.


Brembo caliper

IMG_20201119_111727.LARGE.resized.jpeg

Removing roll pin
IMG_20201119_121304.LARGE.jpeg

Pressing out locator pin
IMG_20201119_122631.jpg

I also need to make sure the pistons won't pop out when the pads are fully worn.
I'll measure the diameter and buy some replacement rod and roll pins from McMaster.
If this doesn't work, the other fix is Wilwood calipers.

[Ctwide3project]

Kicking off one of my winter projects.
The Brembo/Porsche calipers are made for thicker rotors than the E46 M3 rotors used on the E36 conversion.
So the "locator pins" are too short, which means the pad can slip under the locator pin before all the pad material is worn. (This shouldn't happen with zero pad material.)
My fix is to remove and replace the locator pins with longer pins.
Measuring everything, I think I'll get 2-3 days more pad life by lengthening the locator pins.


Brembo caliper

IMG_20201119_111727.LARGE.resized.jpeg

Removing roll pin
IMG_20201119_121304.LARGE.jpeg

Pressing out locator pin
IMG_20201119_122631.jpg

I also need to make sure the pistons won't pop out when the pads are fully worn.
I'll measure the diameter and buy some replacement rod and roll pins from McMaster.
If this doesn't work, the other fix is Wilwood calipers.

If you were to lengthen the locator pins and then find that the pistons could pop out, I wonder if you could get a pad backer machined to take up the excess space from lack of a thicker rotor

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[aeronaut]

Ahh...excellent point. I have a few used backers that I'd cleaned up to use as spacers. So yea, wear pads 1/2 way, throw in backer plate(s)!

[aeronaut]

First pin fabricated and installed.
Quick measurements show that the pistons won't push past the seal (with several mm of margin).
Will still likely throw spacer plates in there once the pads gets ~1/2 worn.

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[aeronaut]

Made the rest of the caliper pins today.

IMG_20201124_141307.jpg

Also started conversion to non-boosted brakes, so yanked the booster.
Will be fabing up a bracket to hold the Wilwood remote M/C mount.

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[aeronaut]

Mock up of remote M/C install. Everything looks like it will work. Final version will use 0.1" thick steel plate and some supports and gussets. Might move the ABS pump to the right area of engine bay, or pax area, in prep for a possible MK60 upgrade.

IMG_20201125_145002.jpg

Ultrasonic cleaning of caliper. And new location pins installed in one.

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[Ctwide3project]

Mock up of remote M/C install. Everything looks like it will work. Final version will use 0.1" thick steel plate and some supports and gussets. Might move the ABS pump to the right area of engine bay, or pax area, in prep for a possible MK60 upgrade.

IMG_20201125_145002.jpg

Ultrasonic cleaning of caliper. And new location pins installed in one.

IMG_20201125_162745.jpg

IMG_20201125_173416.jpg

Looking really good! So nice to see guys doing their own fab work

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[aeronaut]

Thanks, it what I use to get through the cold months.
I almost bought the Massive booster delete, and would have if it were mid-season, but even then some custom fitment is needed if you keep the pedal travel sensor and ABS.
Then saw the Wilwood remote M/C mount, and figured I can turn a 2 hour job into a multi-weekend job to fill the winter months!

[aeronaut]

Caliper pins finished. Need a few new pistons and rebuild kits to finish up.
IMG_20201127_123030.resized.jpg

Booster delete is coming along. Needs a little gusseting and bracing, but that will come after I figure out how to connect to the OEM pedal and do a final test fit.
For the record, I measured the OEM pedal to have a 4.28:1 ratio. Along with the Wilwood remote M/C mount at 1.48:1, I'll have 6.3:1.

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[aeronaut]

Integrating the Pedal Travel Sensor is a PIA. I wish I knew what the ABS computer was really expecting from that linear potentiometer. My experience is the ABS computer is pretty picky about what it sees from this thing, which doesn't make much sense.
Prototype #1 mock-up, I don't like this at all, but not sure of other options.
If I stick with this solution, I'll cut the rod length down.

Long term possible solutions are MK60, or ABS delete.

PdlSensor.resized.jpg

[pshooter]

Long term possible solutions are MK60, or ABS delete.

PdlSensor.resized.jpg

I deleted the ABS on my swapped E30 and regretted it almost from day one.I flat spotted more perfectly good tires in a season than I care to admit.

Your braking threshold is only as good as the least loaded wheel.

[aeronaut]

I deleted the ABS on my swapped E30 and regretted it almost from day one.I flat spotted more perfectly good tires in a season than I care to admit.

Your braking threshold is only as good as the least loaded wheel.

Thanks, and well stated.
That is also my experience. (I have an ABS on/of switch on my panel.)
That said, there are many racers that say once the booster is deleted, brake feel is improved so much, ABS engages very very rarely.
I'm NOT eager to delete the ABS, but keeping an open mind.

[olemiss540]

I added ABS back just to have less to worry/focus on but have to admit I got pretty good after a year or two of feeling slight rear lockup and adjusting accordingly, so there is that.

I know I have seen some reasonable piston replacements on demonspeed or CMS for Pcar calipers, worth a looksee. I think I sourced my rebuild seals from rockauto actually.

Very excited to hear your impressions of the boosterless setup. Does the pedal ratio have an effect on pedal effort? The one I drove needed SERIOUS leg power to get on the brakes like I am used to but sure did make EASY work of trailbraking.

[aeronaut]

Thanks, yea, RockAuto for Centric pistons and seals, total around $100 for both sides, IIRC.

My pedal ratio should be around 6.4 to 1, up from 4.2:1 stock.

[aeronaut]

Talked to Bimmerworld today about MCS. I was expecting some useful info from BW especially after talking to Karcepts in Frederick MD last year, where I learned quite a bit. BW basically said, remote reservoirs "are better". Yea, ok.
Then called MCS. And bingo. Lots of very good information and great discussion.

[aeronaut]

I'm stilling having problems with my EVAP/Expansion tank delete. When adding fuel to the thank, the fuel pump cuts off unless I'm filling at like 0.001 gal/sec. VERY slow. If I unhook the hose I currently have connected to the input of my Radium "Dynamic Safety Vent" (DSV), the tank fills fine. (The DSV is designed to prevent slosh and prevent fuel flow if upside down.) So the DSV shuts off due to high air flow/pressure from the tank from the fuel flow through the filler neck.

OEM fuel fill venting (ignoring the 3 small lines to/from the EVAP/Expansion stuff, I have all those plugged):
oem.rotated.jpg

My current setup with DSV. Fill vent hose inlet to fuel filler neck is plugged, and DSV is connected directly to the fuel vent hose:
current.rotated.jpg

My fix is, reconnect fuel fill vent to the filler neck with a "Y". When the fuel cap is closed, the system will work just like it is now. The only vent to outside will be through the DSV valve. but when the fuel cap is open, the OEM fuel fill vent will be able to vent back up to the filler neck and out just like factory. I hope.

fix.rotated.jpg

[BlackHawkRacing]

Just an FYI, your last picture is how mine is now; as you know, I am having the same filling issues as you. Only difference is that my valve is well below the fuel filler hose. I have it tucked away in the lower potion of the Bumper/wheel well; which I also am wondering if it is contributing to my issue.

[aeronaut]

Hmmm....well...interesting. My valve is currently in the trunk, and slightly above the filler hose.
I do know this, the problem 100% disappears when I pull the vent hose off the inlet to the DSV. It's currently how I fill the car.
Also, I have no loops in the hose to the DSV. All fuel needs to be able to drain back into the tank.
If fuel can get caught in that line it will also trigger the fuel fill to cut off! I had that problem at first. lol

[BlackHawkRacing]

I have 4 or 5 loops in mine, which could def be contributing to the issue.

[aeronaut]

Yep, when I had loops, and fuel had settled in the loops, fuel fill would cut off even with DSV disconnected.

[aeronaut]

I'm in the middle of rearranging my garage/shop space, so not much work on the car. BUT, got some time today for a few hours.

Brake and clutch pedal bushings:
I found some bushings on mcmaster car that I thought would work as brake and clutch pedal bushings. So I bought a few. Turns out they are very close, but just a little too small ID. A few minutes of 120 grit on a rod inserted into the ID, and they're a good fit. The shoulder is almost too thick for the OEM clip to slide on once the pedal is mounted, but it works on mine. I could see someone else's not fitting, but all it would take is some sanding on the shoulder end of either bushing. I'll be buying 2 more for the clutch pedal.

Mcmaster part # 6659K22. $3.30/ea. https://www.mcmaster.com/6659K22/

IMG_20201215_114714.resized.jpg

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Brake Booster delete:
I'm still working on my booster delete. I've got the frame built, the linkages figured out and ready to go, the M/Cs are in and mounted to the frame, and some brake tubing and fittings from pegasus to at least get to a test phase. BUT.. I keep running into issues about how to mount the f'ing brake pedal travel sensor. The real problem is, all the linkages between the pedal and the M/Cs are now both adjustable, and are expected to travel further than the OEM setup. The travel sensor has a total travel of 1.5", so I can't mount it anywhere the travel might be greater than that. And I don't want to mount it where I might be making frequent adjustments (eg on the "down" side of the balance bar). Anyway, I thought I had it, and even had it mounted, but a few concerns made me ditch that setup. Still not 100% sure where it'll end up. But it's looking like under the dash with the brake pedal arm and some plate/fixture to actuate the sensor. What a PIA.
IMG_20201215_141239.resized.jpg


Suspension:
I've about decided on MCS 2-way non-remotes. But I've changed my mind about 18 times. I've talked to MCS, BW, and Vorshlag. I'll likely buy from Vorshlag (thanks to fbirtch reminding me to give them a call). MCS (one of the owners) and Vorshlag (development engineer) were extremely helpful (both with much more information than just MCS dampers). BW was somewhat "buy the best you can afford" kinda gig. I'm a big fan of BW (Clay spent the whole weekend with the class at a race school I attended years ago), but it seems they've spread out so much, they've lost some focus on the pointy end of things. I also talked to Ground Control about springs, camber plates, etc, and as usual they too were very helpful. I've told myself I'll order by the end of this week.

[Ctwide3project]

I'm in the middle of rearranging my garage/shop space, so not much work on the car. BUT, got some time today for a few hours.

Brake and clutch pedal bushings:
I found some bushings on mcmaster car that I thought would work as brake and clutch pedal bushings. So I bought a few. Turns out they are very close, but just a little too small ID. A few minutes of 120 grit on a rod inserted into the ID, and they're a good fit. The shoulder is almost too thick for the OEM clip to slide on once the pedal is mounted, but it works on mine. I could see someone else's not fitting, but all it would take is some sanding on the shoulder end of either bushing. I'll be buying 2 more for the clutch pedal.

Mcmaster part # 6659K22. $3.30/ea. https://www.mcmaster.com/6659K22/

IMG_20201215_114714.resized.jpg

IMG_20201215_114709.resized.jpg

Brake Booster delete:
I'm still working on my booster delete. I've got the frame built, the linkages figured out and ready to go, the M/Cs are in and mounted to the frame, and some brake tubing and fittings from pegasus to at least get to a test phase. BUT.. I keep running into issues about how to mount the f'ing brake pedal travel sensor. The real problem is, all the linkages between the pedal and the M/Cs are now both adjustable, and are expected to travel further than the OEM setup. The travel sensor has a total travel of 1.5", so I can't mount it anywhere the travel might be greater than that. And I don't want to mount it where I might be making frequent adjustments (eg on the "down" side of the balance bar). Anyway, I thought I had it, and even had it mounted, but a few concerns made me ditch that setup. Still not 100% sure where it'll end up. But it's looking like under the dash with the brake pedal arm and some plate/fixture to actuate the sensor. What a PIA.
IMG_20201215_141239.resized.jpg


Suspension:
I've about decided on MCS 2-way non-remotes. But I've changed my mind about 18 times. I've talked to MCS, BW, and Vorshlag. I'll likely buy from Vorshlag (thanks to fbirtch reminding me to give them a call). MCS (one of the owners) and Vorshlag (development engineer) were extremely helpful (both with much more information than just MCS dampers). BW was somewhat "buy the best you can afford" kinda gig. I'm a big fan of BW (Clay spent the whole weekend with the class at a race school I attended years ago), but it seems they've spread out so much, they've lost some focus on the pointy end of things. I also talked to Ground Control about springs, camber plates, etc, and as usual they too were very helpful. I've told myself I'll order by the end of this week.

Awesome find on the bushings and thanks for sharing with us all!

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[aeronaut]

Love me new brake hardware. All pistons, seals, fittings, bleeders, and hoses NEW.
IMG_20201218_133701.jpg

Getting ready to bleed the M/Cs, and then hook up the boosterless setup for a garage "bench" test. (No ABS, no prop valve.)
If all goes ok, will test drive once streets are clear of water/salt.
With ABS pump, 2 M/Cs, and clutch, there are FIVE things that need fed brake fluid (same as OEM actually). Ug. Gotta consolidate the reservoirs.

IMG_20201218_155437.jpg