Well, decided to get rid of window motors. This allowed me to remove body electronics control module. Yea! Only computers left are; DME, ABS, and instrument cluster (although I don't need that). Down to 11 fuses!
I'm keeping the OEM windows and tracks for now. Using a bungie strap to hold them up during transport on open trailer.
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- - - Updated - - -
Not that much weight, but getting rid of this stuff feels good.
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Have decided to make windows removable at the track.
Working on best way to keep them in place during its time on the open trailer. I-bar or hangers or such.
FYI, removing coupe door windows and all associated hardware, motors, and wiring saves 40-42lbs.
Here's all the hardware for the windows, not including the motors.
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Decided to go with the usual home made hangers for the windows.
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Did you have to drill out rivets on the mechanism?
My driver side was held in with bolts but the passenger side was riveted to the door.
Yep. Both sides were riveted.
Moved my AiM MyChron3 around a bit, made a new switch panel (Kydex), and cleaned up some wiring rats nests behind the dash.
It feels like the wiring chore never ends.
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Are you towing your car?
I'm super jealous. I want to remove my glass to save weight.
40lbs, sitting there laughing at you.
(Bluntly, I'm not SURE it's worth it. Pushing a button to raise the window isn't just a luxury.)
Deleted the battery jump box. It's the little things.
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Nothing more fun than weight removal. Cheap, makes you faster, makes the car more fun to toss, and easy to tinker with when your bored!
Got around to:
- removing sound gunk from rear seat area, and cleaned up / wrapped wiring.
- re-routing battery wire so passengers won't stomp it (temporary, as I hope to install a light-weight battery to engine bay over the winter).
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I have the RTD w/ reverse lockout. 3 -> 2 is painless.
At last event, 4th gear started popping into neutral. Ug. And for a while, have been wondering where a loud clunk is coming from. Sounds like trans, so I'm hoping it's 'just' the dual mass flywheel. Anyway, picked up a used transmission and bought a gripforce 'stage 1' PP, clutch, and flywheel.
What happens when you wrap 40lbs of metal in a brown paper bag, and hand it to an angry government worker to carry 3000 mi?
7 of 8 flywheel bolts delivered, and (luckily, all cosmetic):
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Update on clutch. from gripforce. Gripforce sent 8.8 grade flywheel bolts that need to be tightened to 105Nm, which is out of spec for an 8.8 grade bolt. Crap.
Guess I'll order some higher grade bolts from McMaster.
EDIT:
For the record,
OEM dualmass flywheel, 25.0 lbs
Gripforce single chromoly steel flywheel, 14.5 lbs
Last edited by aeronaut; 10-28-2019 at 03:33 PM.
With the trans out, easy access to those heater hoses that need to go.
Fabbed up a blockoff plate, installed, and cut the necessary hoses.
Gonna install a 90 deg fitting to hook up what's left.
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Ok, I could not find a definitive post on OBD1 fuel evap tank and charcoal canister. Here's what I now know.
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OBD1 charcoal canister above.
Tube 3: to atmosphere
Tube 2: from (or to) rear fuel evap tank under rear wheel well.
Tube 1: to engine throttle body
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Tube 2: to (or from) charcoal canister. It's the bigger of the 3 plastic tubes shown. I assume the others marked F, are fuel in and out of fuel tank.
So, I've deleted the charcoal canister, removed the blue line (2) as far back as I can (some of it is captured under the rear seat panel). I'm going to connect a filter to the rubber hose that was connected to 2.
I don't see any reason to run a looped piece of hose as I see some people do, if I'm leaving the evap tank attached.
If I delete the evap tank, then yea, I guess a looped hose would prevent any fuel from sloshing out. But if I never fill past 3/4 tank, I doubt that would happen.
I don't see any need for an evap tank if 1) i've deleted the charcoal canister and 2) I never fill above 3/4 tank.
Make sense?
Last edited by aeronaut; 10-30-2019 at 06:07 PM.
Deleting OBDI fuel expansion/evap tank, or what ever it is. I'll never fill fuel tank above 3/4 full, and charcoal canister already deleted.
There are 3 lines:
1) vent line to charcoal canister. (Cut/removed)
2) Line from fuel tank to expansion tank
3) Line from expansion tank to fuel tank
I'll plug either 2 or 3, and vent the one I don't plug. I haven't decided which one is the right one to vent, 2 or 3. I'm not sure it matters. But I'm guessing plug #2, vent #3, because #3 would be located higher in the fuel tank.
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Last edited by aeronaut; 11-11-2019 at 11:15 PM.
I am OBD II but I went through the same process. On mine there is a breather line that goes from the tank to the top the fuel filler hose; it also had a branch line that connects at the same junction that connected to the expansion tank. I left the main breather and the expansion tank line as is, and deleted/plugged everything else. I then put a discriminator valve on the hose that ran to the expansion tank and ran some extra hose, looped several times, and terminated it in the rear bumper. I also put a crankcase breather filter on the end of the hose.
Last edited by BlackHawkRacing; 11-12-2019 at 10:28 AM.
Fuel expansion tank delete done.
Summary:
- removed charcoal canister, and associated hoses/tubes/wires.
- removed expansion tank
- there are 3 hoses connected to the expansion tank; to charcoal canister (removed/cut), from fuel tank (to top of expansion tank; plugged), to fuel tank (from bottom of expansion tank; vented through breather filter).
I routed the vented/filtered hose into truck temporarily. I want to see if it ever fills with fuel. I don't think it will if I never fill the tank. There's zero fuel smell while the car is sitting. I'll eventually move it to the space where the expansion tank was.
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