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Thread: Electric problem

  1. #1
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    Electric problem

    This is my wife's 94 325i. Sometimes these things, (only these things,) don't work at all: instruments, AC compressor, turn signals. It's not a fuse because it fixes itself, then does it again next day. It's happened 3 times now, and this time it does not seem to want to fix itself. My intuitive guess is ignition switch, but I hate to dive in ignorant. I'm hoping for someone with better experience than mine to tell me what is wrong.

  2. #2
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    Moved to E36 forum from Z3 forum
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  3. #3
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    Has the AC ever been recharged? I think that one is separate from the rest.

    Check the wiring in the trunk, on the left side pull away the trim around the brake light, also inspect the wiring that goes along the left side of the trunk lid.
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  4. #4
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    No ideas at all?

  5. #5
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    fusible links. Responsible for a whole host of intermittent issues. I created a simple way to test that. Just use wire to jump the fusible link studs temporarily. Then try to operate things and see if they work. If they do, then remove the wire and see if they don't. If they don't then change the links - it cost like $4 and there are two in the car.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas525 View Post
    fusible links.... and there are two in the car.
    This is not an E34 with 2 fusible links. There is ONE fusible link, see here page 0670.2-01, F97 https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/etm/data/e36/e36_94.pdf
    the thinner red cable in the trunk right side from battery towards cabin, in shrink plastic
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  7. #7
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    Here's what I would do:

    1) Find the fuse that controls that circuit. Pull it out and put it back in. Or, if the fuse terminals don't look good, swap that fuse with another one of the same rating. (The fuse might be OK but sometimes poor connections can cause intermittent problems.) If that doesn't help...
    2) Set a mutlimeter to DC volts. Remove the fuse and check the voltage to ground on each side, with the ignition switch on. One side should show 12+ volts (13-14 if the car is running). The other side should show no volts. (That's the side to the cluster.)
    2a) If you don't have voltage to either fuse terminal, then something is wrong with the switch, the wiring, or something else on the hot side. (You could test the cluster by routing a wire from another fused circuit to the terminal to the cluster.)
    2b) If you have 12+ volts to one side, test the other side. Set the multimeter to ohms, put one lead to other fuse fitting (the one without voltage) and the other tester lead to a good ground (and unpainted part of the car body). If you have infinite ohms (no connection) then there is a wiring problem to/from the cluster, or something in the cluster might be acting up.

    Please note: The above comments are for a generic car. I don't know whether that model has a computer that controls those functions. That would complicate things and require more specific testing for that particular car.

  8. #8
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    ffs, just check the fusible link, a known weakness, FIRST.

  9. #9
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    In a way, not fixing itself, in this case, is a good thing, for now, and with a wiring diagram and a multimeter, you should be able to fix it.

    Wiring diagrams and TSB's: http://www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams/

    Or check your local library for online repair manuals and diagrams.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    This is not an E34 with 2 fusible links. There is ONE fusible link, see here page 0670.2-01, F97 https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/etm/data/e36/e36_94.pdf
    the thinner red cable in the trunk right side from battery towards cabin, in shrink plastic
    I see the thinner red cable leaving the battery towards the cabin. I followed it to the front of the trunk area, but am not sure where to test. What does just the fusible link look like on the end I can't see? Where does it terminate?
    I found it, on that thin red cable, just before the back of the rear seat. I simply attached a wire to each end to bypass it. Now, I'll drive the car a couple of days to see whether the problem happens again.......
    Last edited by zellamay; 04-16-2019 at 12:56 PM.

  11. #11
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    Okay it's not the fusible link. Car worked for a few days, then did it again. I now know that IT ONLY HAPPENS WHEN THE CAR IS HOT. That ought to be a big clue, but I haven't yet figured out what it means. I'm going to do some more reading. It seems that with enough reading, and schematic interpretations, I should be able to figure it out. It seems that those things that are not working must have something in common, like power source or ground. It's not a fuse. They use different fuses (and some of them use fuses common with things that work fine), and all fuses are good. I'll do the testing like Shaffner suggested. Maybe it will tell me something. ..... Any other ideas appreciated.

  12. #12
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    Intermittent problems are hard to solve, but if you can "catch it in the act" that should help. Checking, cleaning and swapping fuses are easy steps. Often (very often) intermittent electrical problems are basically mechanical -- a loose connection, loose or worn wire, bad ground, even a little gunk on a fuse.

    (My nephew drove his e60 535i with a dark cluster for weeks before finally checking the fuse. He pulled it out, saw that it wasn't blown, put it back in and Voila! -- the cluster worked.)

    While you're at it, make sure the fuse is the right rating. (Look at the chart.) One never knows what previous owners and mechanics might have done.

    If the fuse connection seems good (cleaning and swapping don't help), then use a multi-meter to test in both directions -- upstream from the fuse to the switch, and downstream to toward the cluster.

    I don't know about that model, but if a relay is involved, check it too. First pull it out, put it back, and swap it with another like it. And of course you can test the power coming to and going from the relay (both circuits). (I've seen heat affect failing relays, which again are just mechanical switches.)
    Last edited by R Shaffner; 04-22-2019 at 06:49 AM.

  13. #13
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    I think it's fixed! It was fuse 23. I waited until the problem surfaced. It looked okay, but I cleaned the contacts and shoved it back in. Turn signals, AC, and instruments, all immediately started working. So far, it has passed the tests that it failed before, (several hot starts, short trips, over the day). Fingers are crossed, I'll know for sure within a day or two. I read, followed schematics, drew some flow charts, and figured fuse 23 was the most likely culprit because it is common to all the things that were not working. I have some backup theories, like part of the ignition switch, but hopefully won't have to pursue this any longer. ..... If I were really a good mechanic, I'd pull all the fuses and clean them like that, but ............ Thanks to all

  14. #14
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    Glad it worked. Thanks for letting us know.

  15. #15
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    Okay, it has passed the 2-day test, so it was the right fix. Amazing.... thanks again.

  16. #16
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    I replaced all my fuses with brand new. Removed all the relays and sanded off all the carbon buildup on the blades. Bench tested the relays for internal resistance.
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