Engine rebuild

[justinca540i]

Hi,
Has anyone tried this ebay kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E39-E46....c100005.m1851

I think 50skid on youtube just used it but i was just curious if anyone else has. Thanks

[nonturbodan]

Those parts should cost about 5x the price of that kit. This is chinese garbage. To take apart a good running engine and rebuild it with this garbage would be a legitimately terrible idea. To take apart a worn engine and rebuild it with this garbage would be a huge waste of time and money. A good used engine is a few hundred dollars more and it will actually run the way it is supposed to for a very long time with proper care and maintenance.

What BMW does so right is in the tolerances, metallurgy and manufacturing process. You can't cut all those corners and not compromise quality to a major extent.

[jclausen]

Exactly. Is there some thing wrong with your engine

[328isblack]

I respect anyone who has the guts to take on a job like this themselves but I think the parts are a little too risky. BMW rod bearings have issues to begin with so I wouldn't want to go with a generic part on those. I think if your motor is blown and you want to do this as a project it could be a good learning experience but "I wouldn't fix it if it ain't broke."

[justinca540i]

1) I just have typical rattles
2) Would love to learn how to rebuild an engine
3) More or less "PM", considering doing oil pan so I can do a drilled oil pump nut and thought may as well get bearings and chain guides done

[nonturbodan]

The M54 is not one I would recommend for a first timer, or really anyone for that matter. The cost of a proper rebuild with quality parts is very high, the technical difficulty is high. Good used engines are chock full of original BMW parts all put together just right with optimal torque specs. Hard to beat that, and all you have to do is dunk it in.

The thing with rebuilds is that BMW sets the bar very high in terms of assembly, machining and precise tolerances. It would be very easy to build an M54 that will never run as well or for as long as the original, which I guarantee will be the case with the $499 rebuild kit. You're getting one tenth the quality for one quarter the price. I would not use those under any circumstances.

[justinca540i]

I know this kinda different from OT, but if someone could take a second to listen to this would be greatly appreciated. https://youtu.be/Gd7kaY0ecRU

I know I have some gearbox rattle from clutch/flywheel, but maybe this sounds more timing related?

[nonturbodan]

I don't hear anything that concerns me. It honestly sounds normal.

[justinca540i]

Still sound okay?
DISA has been rebuilt

https://youtu.be/DF7f4lgIMPw

[nonturbodan]

Some ticking, probably lifters. Still doesn't sound terrible. A 5w40 might help quiet that down.

These motors are damn near bulletproof unless you overheat them. Noisy lifters are not a big problem and your rebuild kit doesn't come with lifters anyway.

[justinca540i]

Would trying this help at all?
Engine running at operating temperature
1.) Bring the engine up to an operating speed (no load) of 2000-3000 rpm and maintain this condition for three minutes (bleeding procedure).
Let the engine idle for 15-30 seconds and reevaluate whether the noise is still present or not.
2.) Engine quiet – procedure is finished.
3.) Engine noise is still present – repeat the procedure; perform steps #1 and #2 up to a maximum of 5 times.
4.) Only if the noise remains after performing the bleeding procedure 5 times: proceed by performing the procedure for a final time, also at an engine operating speed of 2000-3000 rpm, but for a total time duration of 15 minutes.


https://www.quirkyuncle.com/2013/04/...w-lifter-tick/

And BMW used hydraulic lifters on the M54 right?

[nonturbodan]

All M50/52/54/56 engines use hydraulic lifters. I don't think bleeding will help. If I'm not mistaken that procedure is for the N52, that is a whole different ball of wax.

[justinca540i]

Just something I came across in INPA. 245 and 246 are SAP related something I'm not worried about.

188 Voltage Pre Cat Bank 1
189 Voltage Pre Cat Bank 2
227 Mixture Deviation Bank 1
228 Mixture Deviation Bank 2
245 Aux Air Injection System Bank 1
246 Aux Air Injection System Bank 2

I'll have a rough idle occasionally but no check engine light or stalling. CCV has been replaced, MAF cleaned, inspected and replaced a torn intake boot.

[dworthy]

If you still have a up/down idle, then that would indicate a vacuum leak still. Another sign is the Mixture codes, but with the first 2 oxygen sensor voltage code, they might be bad anyway. Are these codes present after you did a clear, or is this original codes?

How many miles on that 330i?

[justinca540i]

122k
They're original codes but I did clear them and I'll check them in week or so to see if any return. Kinda rather just be prepared and educated then looking up possible issues to throw $$

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[dworthy]

Like noted above the typical rattle stuff would be the VANOS. If properly taken care of, that motor will go another 200k, I would look at doing the CCV mod if you are burning oil.

I would also pull out the DISA and check the flapper. G.A.S. sells an excellent upgrade kit: http://www.germanautosolutions.com/b...a_products.php

[justinca540i]

Like noted above the typical rattle stuff would be the VANOS. If properly taken care of, that motor will go another 200k, I would look at doing the CCV mod if you are burning oil.

I would also pull out the DISA and check the flapper. G.A.S. sells an excellent upgrade kit: http://www.germanautosolutions.com/b...a_products.php

VANOS as in seals? I ordered the Besian Vanos seals and rattle kit not too long ago just been waiting for oil change.

I'll have to look into the CCV mod and I recently just used the FCP euro kit to rebuild the flapper, maybe o ring doesn't have proper seal.

[justinca540i]

Anyone want to teach me about long term fuel trims

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[dworthy]

Yes, VANOS as in seals, and the anti-rattle kit. I don't have any experience with the FPC kit, so cannot give you any feedback on that.

Normally you want it to get as close to ZERO as possible, but we don't live in a perfect world. This can be caused by old oxygen sensors, dirty fuel injectors, vacuum leaks, dirty MAF, ect. What causes a red flag to go up is when you get over 20% +/-, but for the most part, it will fluxuate around between -10% to +10%.

[harrier]

Anyone want to teach me about long term fuel trims

LTFTs are long term adaptations to the fuel/air mixture. The computer reads air inflow via the MAF then the oxygen levels via the precat sensor and determines whether to add (if lean) or remove (if rich) fuel to achieve the right mix. STFT are basically real time trim to adapt to immediate conditions and LTFT evolve over time from the short term adaptations.

Get OBDFusion and a Bluetooth OBD adaptor. Read the codes - you will likely have p0171/0174 and potentially p0304/0305.

You get 0171/4 when your fuel trims are over 10%, but understand that spec is +/- 2%. What this means is that most folks at this point have out of spec fuel/air even if they don't have a check engine light or code.

If you have these codes, the greatest likelihood is that more than one of these issues is present (all of this is covered in Jfoj's Post on e46fanatics - Read it). Here are the most common causes:

1. Computer is asking for fuel but not getting it - old fuel filter (60k maintenance interval), failing fuel pump (120k is when some pumps go, some seem to last much longer). Computer sees "lean" mix at precat o2 sensors and demands more fuel.

2. Unmetered air is changing the mix due to vacuum leaks - the MAF measures the air, then the computer adds fuel to get the mix right. If air is entering after the MAF it is unmeasured, and the system gets confused because the o2 sensors are saying there is too much oxygen relative to fuel. Smoke test then replace all rubber bits including vacuum lines and caps behind manifold, boots, and all CCV parts if original. Remove and inspect DISA (if it is not hard to remove either replace the unit or dig out and replace the seal). Consider replacing brake booster (won't show on smoke test). Leaks will tend to have a more pronounced effect at low rpm when the air introduced through the leak is a higher percentage of overall air flow.

3. Sensors are getting old and sleepy and under-reporting. Precat O2 sensors have 100k maintenance interval per Bosch. As they wear they will under-report. This will not necessarily trigger an o2 sensor code, but the lack of a code doesn't mean your o2 sensors are healthy. The MAF can also get tired and misread air flow. If the fuel trim issue still occurs at high rpm it is more likely a sensor issue. Frankly, it is almost always part of the problem, so I would replace with an OE unit only (not eBay, not used) after 120k when you get actual lean codes. Cleaning the MAF doesn’t do anything on these cars.

Lots of folks say these sensors don't have to be replaced ever or at least until they go kaput, but folks also say that if there are no codes there is no problem - high LTFTs are suboptimal even if they don't reach the 10% or more required to trigger the code.

There are more obscure causes, for example it is not rare that someone replaces the precat sensors and swaps the wires for the two banks by accident. Easy to happen, simple to diagnose and will definitely trigger codes!

[justinca540i]

Thanks Harrier,
Currently no codes. I did scan with INPA few days ago and had these: 188 Voltage Pre Cat Bank 1
189 Voltage Pre Cat Bank 2
227 Mixture Deviation Bank 1
228 Mixture Deviation Bank 2
245 Aux Air Injection System Bank 1
246 Aux Air Injection System Bank 2
but none of them look similar to P0171 and P0174. I've read codes yesterday and nothing showed up after I cleared them through INPA, to see if they'd come back.

1. Fuel filter and Fuel Pump were just replaced this year.
2. I will try a smoke test, but CCV has been replaced as well as some of the intake boots.
3. Ok, so included below was the INPA error memory report and looks like it was occuring around 3000 rpm. Is this considered high enough rpm to be a sensor? Also as sensors get tired do voltage change? For example, I could take a reading with a mulitmeter and see they're bad or no?

[gdavid]

I know this is an old post but I can share a positive review of this ebay seller.

I was looking for rebuild parts for my m52 (non-tu) and was looking for a complete kit, I reached out to this seller, messaging him through ebay and told him exactly what I was looking for, I didn't need pistons but wanted a comprehensive set of head bolts, gaskets, bearings and rings. I had a special request for the rings because I was putting m54b30 pistons in a m52 block and didn't want to use the M54 style of oil control rings but the M54 uses a thinner compression ring than the M52, so I needed a hybrid set. I received exactly what I requested and would recommend the seller. The gaskets were all Victor Reinz which aren't OEM but certainly aren't Chinese knock offs. The rings were Goetze and I honestly don't recall the bearing manufacturer but it was a brand I was familiar with. I imagine the pistons he sells are Chinese but I didn't need them so he didn't include them in my custom order. It worked out very cost effectively for me, $455. If I had to do it over again I would probably upgrade the head gasket and head bolts but I received exactly what I asked for and the motor turned out well.

Opening up yourself to the potential of stripping the threads out of your aluminum block seems like an unnecessary risk that probably won't deliver. Unlike the S54 engines, the bearings on these engines rarely wear out unless severely abused. Oil control rings can be a problem for your engine but I would start with soaking the top end if you are burning a lot of oil rather than opening up the engine.