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Thread: 1st time '03 Z4 owner with various (and possibly related) issues looking for advice

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
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    Illinios
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    2003 bmw z4 2.5

    1st time '03 Z4 owner with various (and possibly related) issues looking for advice

    I recently purchased 2003 bmw z4 (E85) and got a good deal on it because of several issues with it.

    1) The hydraulic motor for the roof doesn't work, but the electric motor that locks and unlocks it still works. So i am able to unlock the roof with the power button and then i manually fold the top down. My question here is about the locking mechanism when the top is folded down; the top doesn't lock into place even though it appears that it should. Even when i press it down forcefully, it doesn't lock. So i was wondering if it is a power lock when the top is down? In a similar fashion to how it locks in place when you put it up.

    2) The radio has power but no audio. I've done some minor research and it would seem this is due to a faulty factory amp. I have 2 choices: buy a replacement amp or replace head unit with an aftermarket stereo and run new speaker wire to each speaker. I do not want to replace the amp because it's 2019 and i don't own a CD or listen to fm radio anymore. Does anyone have knowledge about the simplest method of installing an aftermarket stereo? It seems like the wires go from head unit to amp to speakers, so couldn't i just cut the wires leading into and out of the amp, and reconnect them without the amp... and not have to make any modifications to the wiring harness and not have to rerun speaker wire anywhere?

    3) The car has 3 yellow indicator lights on: abs, brake and the dsc light. I've noticed online that people have solved this issue with several methods... from new battery to cleaning or replacing different sensors. I don't have a history of when these lights came on as i just bought the car this week. They are all on, every time i turn on the car. the service engine soon light is also on, and while i haven't checked that one out myself, the dealership said it was an O2 sensor. Regardless, does anyone have suggestions on where to start with the lights? the vehicle runs and drives very smooth and it seems like the 3 light issue is common so it's not as annoying as my other 2 issues but any help would be appreciated. Thanks...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    Georgia
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    2003 Z4 2.5
    I have similar problems with my 03,2.5. The lights I have are caused by my brake pressure sensors, there are 2 of them and they are locat d on the master brake cylinder,pump. I have a Creador obd reader and I clear them out when they come on sporadically. A BMW mechanic once told me as long as they're yellow. I do plan on replacing the failing one. The top issue is one I haven't checked out yet, scared to put mine down. Either motor is gone or low on fluid I guess.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    Timaru, New Zealand
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    1,132
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    Two Z3 Roadsters
    1) Often the latching motor just needs the mechanism lubricated

    2) Can't help you with this one

    3) You need to scan the ABS computer to see the trouble codes, we are all guessing until you do. Many scanners only read the engine computer, so check the spec's of the one you use to make sure that it can read the ABS computer.
    1999 2.8L Z3 Roadster,
    2000 3.0L Z3 Roadster,

    There is only one thing more pleasurable than working on a Z3, that's driving it top down on a fine day.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
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    Kernersville, NC 27284
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    2003 Z4 E-85
    I, too, am a first time owner of a 2003 Z4. Many of the first year flaws were solved in subsequent years but correcting these first year faults is sinfully expensive.

    I have experienced the airbag light since the first time I drove it. I bought it about 100 miles from where I live so I towed it home. I put it on the road and after about 15 miles, the airbag light came on and stayed on. A $250 diagnostic fee later revealed a bad sensor. To have it replaced is about $600, depending on the labor rate charged. Used sensors won't work, as the sensors have to be programmed to the car (per 5 BMW dealers or authorized service shops).

    My Z4 had 76K on the ODO so I thought I was getting a good car--wrong. My top will not retract nor rise with the pump motor but the electric latch on the windshield frame does work. I can hear the motor spinning behind me and I've been told I have a leak in the hydraulic line(s). Most owners of Z4 have had their motor to short out due to the drain line getting clogged and water rises in the pit in which it resides and shorts out the motor. That's about $600 buying one off the web. In order to get to the pump motor and lines, the top and frame have to be removed from the vehicle and you don't want to know what the BMW labor charge. Would be unless if you are wrench-savvy and have a friend to help. As long as I have the energy to lower/raise the top, I'll just live with it. Pull the red lever in the trunk and lock it in place and the top can be raised by hand. With my bad back, I raise one side and prop it on a piece of 2x4, then raise the other side and prop it up. Then, I can lift the top from the center and push it upward and position it at the latches and hit the up switch which locks the top in place.

    My "only" other major problem has been the heat and air conditioning system. When I first drove the car, I noticed the A/C was not throwing out cold air. Spent $300 to get that fixed. Then, in the fall, I had no heat so another $300 got me heat. Now, with the warm weather just around the corner, I don't have A/C anymore. So, back to the shop for another A/C diagnosis and another $300 down the tubes. This time, the tech tried to lock the flaps for the A/C system in the heater system box but that did not work. The service writer said the heater box would have to be rebuilt-after the dash and heater box were removed from the car so the heater box can be opened up for repair. It is mounted to the backside of the firewall. I reluctantly agree to pay the estimated $2200 to have this work done. Parts were ordered and I left my Z4 on Tuesday. That afternoon, I received a frantic call from the service writer who advised that one of the 3 boxes of new parts was short about a half dozen needed parts and their BMW parts distributor did not have another box, so it had to be ordered from Germany. Fortunately, the repair shop gave me a loaner car to drive and agreed to let me keep it until my car can be be repaired.

    Something else I'll mention is the suspension system in these first year beasts is pretty weak. I can feel every bump in the road. Eventually, I'll have to have new structs installed but for now, I'll live with it, as is.

    Hope you have better success with your Z4 than I have had with mine. Oh, yeah, my brake light and dsc light were coming on pretty much every time I drove it, then did not come back on for the 5,000 miles I've put on it since last fall until this week and they popped on again. I'm thinking a sticking switch somewhere causes this but the shop tells me "they can't fix what they can't see."
    Last edited by RogerC493; 04-27-2019 at 10:16 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Mechanicsburg, PA USA
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    2003 2.5 BMW Z4
    Hey

    Just a heads up on using the emergency red handle as a every day method of opening/closing the top. This emergency release system also fails, generally about the same time as the motor. This is a very common failure which seems to go hand in hand with the top motor failure. You engage it and.....nothing. If the system fails top up, no big deal. Whereas, if it fails top down, it's the worset nightmare. The top is now locked down under a few thousand pounds of hydroical pressure with no way releasing the pressure other than attempting to reach and cut hydo lines.

    Anyway, you should be aware of this, since it might save you a lot of heartache as well as a ton of $$

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
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    Illinios
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    2003 bmw z4 2.5
    a quick update to my original post:
    1) solved... for those who are unaware, yes the top does lock into place when you lower it. anyone looking for this information, if you are someone who has to manually lower your top, you start by pressing the top down button until the top unlocks, then manually lower your top, and then you'll need to make sure the top is 100% lowered and press the top down button again, and that will engage the lock and ensure the top locks down in place. to put your top back up, you will press the top up button, after it unlocks you can manually raise your top, then once again hit the top up button until it locks to the windshield.

    2) solved... i came across an amp on ebay for $184, got it and swapped it out for the one already in my car and voila, the tunes work. i bought an fm transmitter and listen to music from my phone.

    3) unsolved, and worse.
    so the battery in my z4 was a generic battery with autozone used battery labels on it. this made me hopeful that a new battery would solve the warning light trifecta. well the day i decide to go buy a battery, i'm driving the z4 the store, and when i pull into the parking spot my power steering shuts down and the corresponding yellow light comes on. so i buy the h6 maxx battery from walmart, swap it in for the used battery and kept my fingers crossed. after a week of driving it, all the warning lights remain on, so unfortunately the battery didn't solve that issue.

    4) my new EPS problem seems odd. i bought an obdII scanner online, nexas nd601 and when i received it, i plugged it in and hoped it worked as well as the website claimed. it showed a few of the codes but seemed unable to reset them. it also said there was no fault codes for the airbag, even though the light is on. either way, it wasn't resetting a majority of the yellow lights so i ended up returning it. it did reset the check engine light, but that came back on later in the day. i expected that, since the scanner said it was o2 sensor.
    but the interesting part is, it reset the EPS light... and i drove the car to work that day, about a 75 mile drive. the power steering worked fine the entire drive until i pulled into the parking lot at work. for the next few days the eps light was on and the system not working, until today. i drove to the store and the power steering worked for the first half of the drive then the light came on again and i lost power steering again. (i don't know if this is common or not, but it's worth noting that each time i turn the car on, the eps light is not on, and i can turn the wheel about a half of a revolution with power but then the light kicks on and i lose power)

    anyone with any useful info on this, i'll gladly listen.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Victoria BC Canada
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    2004 Z4, 1700 Nomad MC
    You need to scan with software capable of reading the BMW specific codes or a scanner that is capable of reading BMW specific codes and clearing them. Few hand held scanners are capable of doing so.

    After reading the error codes to see what is going on.....they need to be reset/cleared to see if they re-appear after an attempt to”solve” an issue. Airbag lights (SRS) system don’t clear by themself as an example.

    I would have your alternator output voltage checked as the voltage regulator could be defective. This will cause a host of issues as the cars electronics is sensitive to low voltage....

    Airbag light could be from a passenger seat mat being damaged (don’t kneel on passenger seat)... to the wire connection/connector from the battery to the SRS system being “dirty” resulting in a high resistance/low voltage condition causing an error code.... And if you disconnect a connection in the SRS system for whatever reason, an error code results.

    Read the following articles on the “trifecta” of error lights for some insight on your issues....

    https://www.google.ca/search?q=z4+tr...&client=safari


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8
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    Aug 2018
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    Kernersville, NC 27284
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    2003 Z4 E-85
    Quote Originally Posted by JAS1169 View Post
    Hey

    Just a heads up on using the emergency red handle as a every day method of opening/closing the top. This emergency release system also fails, generally about the same time as the motor. This is a very common failure which seems to go hand in hand with the top motor failure. You engage it and.....nothing. If the system fails top up, no big deal. Whereas, if it fails top down, it's the worset nightmare. The top is now locked down under a few thousand pounds of hydroical pressure with no way releasing the pressure other than attempting to reach and cut hydo lines.

    Anyway, you should be aware of this, since it might save you a lot of heartache as well as a ton of $$
    The first time I tried to raise my top, I strained muscles in my back, not knowing about the red release handle. Research on this site pointed me to that handle. Even with it pulled and locked, I only raise one side about 4" and prop that side with a piece of 2x4, then do the same for the other side. Then, I can raised the top from the middle without damage to my back.
    I was not aware that once the top is down you could press the "down" button again to lock the top in place. I suppose that would eliminate the red light from flashing while the top is down, but not locked? Can anything go wrong if the top is locked down? In other words, would I be able to get the top raised after locking the top down? If so, I'll not attempt to lock the top in the down position.

    Not being wrench-savvy, I have hesitated to ask BMW the cost to remove the top and find the leaking hydraulic line(s), as since I can hear the electric motor running behind my seat, I must be low on oil. Someone said removing the top was an all day job and at $150/hour, that could really dent my billfold. For that reason, I don't lower the top until summer, and then, not everyday. I know some of you guys have removed/replaced the top but where do I start?
    Last edited by RogerC493; 05-02-2019 at 12:27 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Mechanicsburg, PA USA
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    2003 2.5 BMW Z4
    Roger

    Your back injury makes it really tuff to determine if some of the issues are either accountable to the injury or a failing/failed emergency release system. In that, when the red handle is engaged the roof is a little heavy but, not to the extent your describing for an average person. Yet, your injury might be the cause. Can you allow another person who isn't hurt to do it as a test?

    Your lack of wrench knowledge when coupled with your injury sort of cancels out this as a starter D/I/Y. In that, there is a lot of in the trunk work involved in pulling the top.

    You should expect the basis price for BMW to determine your problem to be $900.00 to $1,100.00. The actual costs of repairing the problem would be added to the aforementioned.

    I am aware of your other out of pocket repair costs from your posting on this thread and am considering these in my recommendation.

    I would have another able bodied person attempt to lift the top with the red cable pulled. If they have same issue as you, them your emergency release has issues, if they do not, than it's caused by your injury.
    If your emergency system has failed, and because of your other ongoing repair costs, I would suggest releasing the hydo pressure in the system which would make the top a manual. This can be accomplish by removing the trunk shelf, the trunk shelf bracket behind the driver and then reaching thru the left rear fender until you reach the motor/pump. At the motor pump cut the 4 hydo lines which will release all of the pressure in the system. Only do this if it's a failed red cable.

  10. #10
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    JAS1169
    The top did not cause my back injury but rather aggravated it. After learning of the red release handle, it makes raising the top much easier. I use the wood blocks to raise the top about 4", then, standing behind the trunk, I can push the top up instead of trying to lift it from its flat position. The red handle still works.

    Is removing the top included in your quote of $900-1100 by BMW? I was told the top has to be removed on a 2003 to access the pump motor and lines, whereas on later models the pump is more accessible.

  11. #11
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    Roger

    Ok, do not cut your lines, because you'll receive no benifit from doing so. Your current difficults are from your injury.

    The $900.00 to $1,100.00 is the fee to simply remove and later reinstall the top. Once the top is removed they can visually inspect your lines and the hinge lifters to determine what is the problem (extra cost). If it's a line expect a cost of about 225.00 for a pair of lines** plus labor to install the new line. However, if it's a bad hinge lifter they run over $550.00 each and they BMW will recommend that both be replaced. Replacing hinge lifter has a lot of labor costs.

    You should be able to get a upfront estimate from BMW on this. Ask for a ball park cost of installing a new hydo line and then if it needs a hinge lifter.

    Although it's not going to help you, you can pull a motor/pump without removing the top. I also have a 2003 and my top motor died. I order a new motor and was ready to pull the top for an install and pulled the red handle .....nothing. You have to be able to move the top in locations in order to remove the top. I was unable to move the top to the need locations to remove it. I learned from the UK Z4 forum of the European method of pulling the motor thru the trunk which did not require the top to be removed. I used this method (actually I didn't have any other choice) and it worked.

    Roger, this won't help you and only works to change out the motor. You need to have the top removed so the lines and hinge lifter can be visually inspected to determine the location of the leak.

    ** Lines are sold in pairs by vendors, maybe a dealership will sell then singly if they are installing them???

  12. #12
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    Optimistically, I cannot imagine my Z4 needing hinge lifters, as the mileage is 82K, has always been garaged and very little water drained from the "pump pit" when I recently emptied it, so maybe I can get out for under $2K-if I decide to have this fixed. I'm still waiting on repairs to my heater box to be made and find out what that bill will be. The parts are in and the tech had removed the dash yesterday afternoon. Another day and it should be finished in time to ride in the comfort of A/C. With all the pollen in the air, I don't want to pop the top quite yet.

    I appreciate all the advice you have listed. I have a shop I use which is an authorized BMW service center. I deal with them and will ask for an estimate for the top repairs when I pick up my car next week.

  13. #13
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    Roger

    This site is designed for the purpose of sharing info about our car's. They, our car's, as with human's, share common problems, and the info we share here should provide a understanding of the best method of repair. I'm hoping my info helped you.

  14. #14
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    The shop I use has quoted me $550 to R/R the top, in order to determine if my pump motor is in need of replacing or leaking lines, or whatever. Worse case scenario is about $2K to replace motor and lines or it could only be $1K for the motor only, incremental to the $550. I suspect a leak is what I have-but I don't have the money to find out. Lowering/raising the top manually is free as long as my back holds up.
    My top never locks in the lowered position. I haven't tried to press the "down" button again for fear the "up" button would not release the lock. Then, what would I do? Is there a manual release to unlock the top?
    Last edited by RogerC493; 05-15-2019 at 05:58 PM.

  15. #15
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    Hi RogerC493....it has a manual process to unlatch the top....problem is, if the roof is lowerred down then there is no way to access it.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlsson01 View Post
    Hi RogerC493....it has a manual process to unlatch the top....problem is, if the roof is lowerred down then there is no way to access it.
    Carlsson01, can you be more specific about this? I seem to recall reading somewhere there is a pull cord in the backside of the rear pillar but not sure if this is a release or not. My cord is loosely hanging. (Not talking about the red release handle.)
    Last edited by RogerC493; 05-15-2019 at 10:14 AM.

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