Losing my mind on bleeding the brakes

[320iAman]

I bought a brake booster from OLDMAN and sent it too Power Brake Exchange in San Jose, they rebuilt with fast turn a round time, it was derusted, primed, new sealed and vacuum checked.

http://www.pwrbrake.com/inventory/se...e/l/1.8/cyl/4/

Here is mine back from the shop.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...e-Rebuild-Shop

Randy

[jaredmac11]

I saw that thread before. I have a spare Im going to try and send in my original for repairs. $150 isn't too bad for a new good working booster.

I have a friend trying to sell me on the wilwood master cylinder/booster delete I just don't know how I feel about it for a street car.

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[captain awesome]

I wouldn't choose to run the delete, especially for a street car. Assisted brakes are awesome. I don't know a good justification to go manual other than space restrictions.

[320iAman]

I saw that thread before. I have a spare Im going to try and send in my original for repairs. $150 isn't too bad for a new good working booster.

I have a friend trying to sell me on the wilwood master cylinder/booster delete I just don't know how I feel about it for a street car.

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Have you seen this before ?

Here is another Brake Booster remanufacturer in your neck of the woods. $104.89 ordered thru Rock Auto plus shipping. Prior Automotive in Dallas Tx Phone 972-388-1090, Part Number 9700112

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...e+booster,1884

Info from rockauto

Brake Unit without Master Cylinder Prior Automotive Products is an industry leader in business for over fifty years engaged in the remanufacturing of Power Brake Boosters. Prior Automotive Products, with manufacturing locations in Dallas, Texas, was founded in 1951 by Fred Prior, one of the pioneers of the auto parts industry. Power Brake Boosters are produced in our modern Dallas facility situated on several acres of land.
Features:

• All units assembled with only premium quality US made rubber seals and diaphragms.
• Every casting precision machined to pass 100,000 stroke life cycle test.
• 100% of all units factory tested for quality assurance.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...KyZQafHYmTU%3D


Your all Welcome, You All. I think I got the drawl right.

Randy

[jaredmac11]

It's more like one word spilling out of your mouth. Yaller werlcome.

Randy that's a great find. I am hoping to find something local and it seems like you found it for me. Had no idea to check rock Auto.

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[okieflats]

pass the 100,000 stroke test.

did you stroke yours 100,000 times and see if it passed Randy?

[Thecatmilton]

Have you seen this before ?

Here is another Brake Booster remanufacturer in your neck of the woods. $104.89 ordered thru Rock Auto plus shipping. Prior Automotive in Dallas Tx Phone 972-388-1090, Part Number 9700112

Interesting. I've driven by there before. Not too far from where I live.

[jaredmac11]

I called them up, they usually work off of distributors it seems.

They said they didn't have the part and to maybe try the dealer.

May be time to get y'all's boosters repaired where you can, just let me get mine first....

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[320iAman]

did you stroke yours 100,000 times and see if it passed Randy?

lol,, Not sure, they rebuilt it and got it back fast..

Randy

- - - Updated - - -

I called them up, they usually work off of distributors it seems.


They said they didn't have the part and to maybe try the dealer.

May be time to get y'all's boosters repaired where you can, just let me get mine first....

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PRIOR 9700112 Brake Unit without Master Cylinder - Return and Rebuild Service Only - You send your part to be rebuilt and returned to you. We'll email shipping instructions after you submit your order. Info Early



According to Rock Auto you buy it from them and instructions follow to sent it to Prior Auto for rebuild.

If Rock Auto does not work out PBE is available.

Power Brake Exchange, call them and then send it to them and they get your CC info over the phone and ship it back to ya, when remanufactured/rebuilt.

Randy

[jaredmac11]

Thanks Randy. Likely gonna send it to PBE. Seem like good folks and should get a quick turn around.

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[320iAman]

Thanks Randy. Likely gonna send it to PBE. Seem like good folks and should get a quick turn around.

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Indeed took only a few days once they got it,These Ate Brake Boosters are NLA, This is the second time I have seen this at Rock Auto,,The Getrag 245 5 speed, Rock Auto shows the lay shaft bearings as being a certain size they have listed, they are not the size they have listed and wont work.

Give them a call and chat it up and they will give you the details, I'd remanufacture the brake master as well or get a brand new one-- A1 Cardone 13-2293 ~$60

s-l1600.jpg A1 Cardone 13-2293, I'm using this one now and I remanufactured an Ate for that day with all new Ate internals.

Randy

[jaredmac11]

Pofo was able to hook me up with a rebuild kit. I'm pretty sure the issue was with the master cylinder all along. I taped to mark the fluid level then pressed/depressed the brakes several times and noted the fluid was down a bit. Further , I put my power brake bleeder kit down the booster (removed the air valve) and sucked up a bit of fluid.


Question for you .. what's the difference between the cast iron MC and the aluminum? Any reason they changed materials?

It's two different rebuild kits for the different MC, I'll be moving from cast iron to aluminum just because that's the rebuild kit I'm receiving.

[320iAman]

Pofo was able to hook me up with a rebuild kit. I'm pretty sure the issue was with the master cylinder all along. I taped to mark the fluid level then pressed/depressed the brakes several times and noted the fluid was down a bit. Further , I put my power brake bleeder kit down the booster (removed the air valve) and sucked up a bit of fluid.


Question for you .. what's the difference between the cast iron MC and the aluminum? Any reason they changed materials?

It's two different rebuild kits for the different MC, I'll be moving from cast iron to aluminum just because that's the rebuild kit I'm receiving.

No difference in size and function. Cost is why the change, Aluminum costs less to mine, refine and get into ignots or pigs which are remelted and poured into casts or forms--products eg Brake Master Cylinder, than Steel Products be they Cast iron, Bessemer Steel, Open Hearth Steel, Electric Arc Steel, and so forth. Cost/Price of Aluminum and Steel rises as I have them listed in order.

Randy

[okieflats]

If there ever is corrosion in the bore, the thing to do is get it "sleeved" with brass. A thin brass liner. Supposed to last nearly forever that way. That is especially what is done with older, more rare and expensive master cylinders.

http://www.karpspb.com/sleeving.htm

http://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-...ding-services/

Many rebuilders do not offer sleeving as part of their service. The longevity is significantly reduced for components that can be sleeved but are not.

- - - Updated - - -

Places that use brass

http://www.applehydraulicsonline.com...tions/sleeving

SEND US YOUR CYLINDERS FOR SLEEVING

Send us empty casting (all fittings, bleeders, etc. removed) and we will clean it, re-sleeve with brass to standard size and return, so you can reassemble using kit you provide. Prices are same as for American cylinders, with some exceptions:

• Master cylinder, single circuit (most pre 1967) - $95-$125
• Master cylinder, dual circuit (most 1967 & later) - $115 most

http://www.brakecylinder.com/BrakeFAQ.htm closed up for good

I can get new cylinders for my car. Why should I have the old ones sleeved?

New, good quality (we mention that because there are many new cylinders being imported that are of very poor quality) master cylinders are increasingly expensive. The vehicle age where the cost breaks even between new and sleeved&rebuilt moves forward in time rapidly. Figure about $120 total for sleeving and a rebuild kit for a typical single-circuit master cylinder. New, good master cylinders for some cars don't cost that much yet, but many do.
Cylinders in cars that get fewer than a few thousand miles per year can be expected to last perhaps 5-6 years before pitting is bad enough to chew up the rubber. If you are planning to keep the car that long, you are ahead as soon as you don't have to do the first brake job no matter how cheap the parts are. And sleeved cylinders are a big selling point if you don't keep the vehicle.
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Why do you use brass? Why not stainless steel?

The proper grades of stainless steel are fine for sleeves *if* they are installed properly. For metallurgical reasons, they must be put in with a quite tight interference fit. This fit works fine on massive disc calipers, but can break relatively thin-walled master and wheel cylinders. Much of the work we do is on cylinders that are difficult if not impossible to replace, so we can't take a chance on breaking them. We can use different assembly techniques with brass that do not risk breaking the casting.
We often re-sleeve cylinders that have had stainless sleeves installed improperly. The typical failure mode for these cylinders is that the bond between the sleeve and the casting fails, allowing the sleeve to push out of the cylinder when pressure is applied. See a set of Dunlop caliper pods with three out of four failed sleeves. The fourth sleeve was close to failure.
It's important to note that these systems do not fail from wear but rather from pitting caused by rust or corrosion. Brake parts move so slowly and so seldom, relatively speaking, and are so well lubricated that wear just isn't a factor. Even soft, non-anodized aluminum cylinders (that haven't been honed) show very little to no wear if we can find enough uncorroded surface to get a measurement. If we can prevent the pitting, we prevent the failure. The tempered brass we use is much harder than cast aluminum and not much softer than cast iron. The additional hardness of SS is just not an advantage in brake cylinders. In addition, brass is by nature a bearing material. SS is not.

[320iAman]

On my aluminum Ate brake master cylinder I remanufactured with a Ate Kit, I checked it out closely, there was zero defects, pits, rust and so forth in the bore, since I got a brand new one-A1 Cardone is brand new everything no reused parts, I put in the new Ate Internals with the bore and new internals coated with red rubber grease--this keeps the seals new and not dry and the bore coated, when Brake fluid is added, red rubber grease dissolves and does not effect the hydraulic fluid or the devices, this way when the a1 cardone bmc is done--effectively a new one is installed.

Randy