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Thread: Nate's S62 Engine Refresh/Rebuild Thread

  1. #1
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    Nate's S62 Engine Refresh/Rebuild Thread

    On Feb. 3rd, 2019, my 2001 E39 M5 with ~164,200 developed a nasty knocking noise from under the engine bay. I had heard the same noise very intermittently while driving earlier that week, but it sounded sort of like a header/exhaust gasket, and I'd just had the header flanges repaired a few weeks ago. I crawled under the car after getting home and tightened the nuts on the exhaust and the problem didn't reappear - until later. I think the bearing was seizing on the crankshaft, and then un-seizing. Unfortunately, I didn't diagnose the noise correctly, or I may have saved myself a whole bunch of trouble.

    Here's what it sounded like:


    And after listening to a few videos of "E39 M5 rod knock" on YouTube, I quickly realized that I was in trouble. The noise was exactly like those.

    So I parked the car at my house from Feb. 3rd until March 25th, when I had the car towed down to a good friend's shop space in Escondido. We tore into the bottom of the engine, and discovered that piston 3 (third piston from the front of the engine on the right bank, driver's perspective) had a completely spun rod bearing. The bearing was severely mushroomed, and hammered far thinner than design. The rest of the rod bearings showed wear, but nothing unusual.

    Here are some of the chunks of the bearing material we found in the lower oil pan:
    IMG_9719.jpg

    I could feel a tiny, tiny ridge on the crankshaft with my fingers. I couldn't see it with my eyes, though, so I was hopeful that it would be small enough to not matter. I bought some type 1 (green) Plasti-gauge at the O'reilly's down the street. The clearances for the M5's rod bearings are specified from .029 - .067mm. We plasti-gauge'd one side of the rod journal; ~.035 ish. Perfect. I rotated the crank, and plasti-gauged the other side. ~.08mm. Shoot. Practically off the scale for this Plasti-gauge. Did it again, same result. 13/1000 of a millimeter too large. And probably oval'ed, but thirteen thousandths of a millimeter sounds cooler.

    Insert swear words.


    So we packed up our tools and I went home because I was tired, and I needed to reevaluate what our plan was. My buddy, Ryan Schultz of E39Source, has a well-running S62 in a parts car sitting about 20 feet away. I could buy that engine. But that engine has just 58k miles on it, and the asking price is more than I can afford. If I bought an engine, I would now have two S62s, and I could refresh the broken one and either swap it back in to my car, and sell the other engine. But that's two engine swaps, and a BIG, long term project.

    I have elected, instead, to rebuild my engine, and let the car sit idle. I've purchased a crankshaft from a friend who had to refresh his S62, and with Ryan's help we took the S62 out of my car last week.

    We removed the front end and pulled it out. It is possible to remove the engine from below, by dropping the front subframe, but we had already removed the subframe to do the rod bearings. Rod bearings are an engine-in service, so we didn't even have to drain the coolant.

    IMG_3337 copy.jpg

    Removal was smooth. I forgot to disconnect the clutch slave cylinder, so I'll need to replace that line. Thankfully, I have a good working used one on the shelf behind the camera here.

    IMG_2661 copy.jpg

    The gaping hole. Note the driveshaft sadly dangling by the CSB. I plan to replace the post-ABS rear brake hoses, clutch slave line, driveshaft (u-joint has play), heater hoses, and any of the O-rings that were disturbed by engine removal (namely, the AC O-rings and power steering cooler line O-rings).

    IMG_6379 copy.jpg

    I love the ITBs. Impressively packaged, and gorgeous to look at.

    IMG_5849 copy.jpg
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
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  2. #2
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    Heck yeah! Bummer that this happened, but I'm glad you're taking this on with a positive attitude. Working on an engine when it's out is super fun.
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

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    Same sentiment as Danny. Sucks it happened, but when you’re done you can greet each new challenge with the confident glassy eyed stare of the veteran who has been there and done that. Good luck and keep us posted!


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    BMW's engineers, in a real classy move, decided that they wanted to torture any mechanic that needed to remove the S62's flywheel. I had to remove the flywheel to fit the engine on the stand, and the flywheel would make crankshaft removal difficult. The hefty dual-mass flywheel is secured to the crankshaft with 8 (?) big T60 bolts. Ok, great. I grabbed the Horror Freight 1/2 inch drive T60 impact socket, and slotted it into... Nope, the T60 is too wide to fit through the holes in the flywheel to reach the bolts. Ok, whatever. So I went down to the local AutoZone, they had a T60 socket that was no wider than the T60 bit itself. That fit through the access holes, but it didn't fit into the heads on the bolts. What the ****? So I got down on my hands and knees behind the engine (just where BMW wants you to be as you discover this), and realized that the bolts in the flywheel (which are held captive for some reason) have a different bolt pattern than the holes in the flywheel to access the bolts. AKA, the bolts are ever so slightly pushed outwards from the access holes.

    WHY YOU DO THIS CRAP TO ME?

    So I mutilated the AutoZone socket with my grinder for a while until it fit and I could release the bolts. I put an open ended wrench between a bell housing bolt (the M10x1.25 x 75mm bolt that works perfectly to suspend the engine on a Horror Freight 4 caster stand) and a pressure plate alignment pin to hold the flywheel still. I had to use an 18 inch 1/2 drive breaker bar on the bolts.

    IMG_0785 copy.jpg

    I ordered the special tool from CTA tools, but USPS is taking their sweet time as always. This DIY tool works ok, but it's ugly. I might just stick with it. We'll see.

    From there, I spent a lot of time tearing down the engine. I'm down to nothing but the block, heads, and VANOS now. I'm concerned about VANOS timing; it's very important that the VANOS is timed correctly, or I could have piston-to-valve contact. I need to do some more research. If you have experience with VANOS timing on the S62, I'd love to hear about it. I've seen the usual online "workshop manual" documentation, but it requires specialized tools that cost $200+.

    So here's where the engine sits now. Any rubber hoses and gaskets I saw along the way are going to be replaced. I am replacing the engine and transmission mounts. I am replacing the flywheel. I am replacing the timing chains and guides.

    IMG_3114 copy.jpg

    I'm debating whether or not to remove the cylinder heads. The engine burns hardly any oil, maybe a quart every 3500 miles. Maybe. There is no sign of a head gasket problem, though the gaskets are displaying some corrosion at their edges, where they peek out of the block. If the heads come off, it only makes sense to have everything cleaned and reassembled, but I honestly don't have a reason to do so. Valve guide seals are not a problem on this engine, and while I'm sure the Secondary Air Injection system could benefit from a cleaning, I have no codes for it right now, and I believe the SAI codes have been disabled in my tune. Removing the SAI system would make reassembly much simpler, too.

    I'd love to hear thoughts and suggestions.

    Thanks,
    Nate
    Nate J.

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    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

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    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
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    Oh, and another thing. The front timing cover has chunk missing; a piece of the lower timing chain guide support. By all appearances, this chunk has been broken off inside the engine for years. It's perfectly clean, like it's been washed by engine oil for a long time. We found it when we took the lower oil pan off initially. It's large and irregularly shaped, like a triangular, bent half-dollar coin. It's off of this piece on the back of the front timing cover.

    DSC00006.jpg

    I assume any halfway decent aluminum welder could zap it back together and grind down any rough edges without trouble. It's not a machined surface, and the timing chain has never contacted it, as far as I can tell. In the E39 M5 owner's Facebook group, we asked if this was a critical piece. They suggested that it eases timing chain installation, by not allowing the chain to slip off the crankshaft, and that it acts as a small oil pool for the timing chain.

    Interestingly, the bank 1 (driver's right) camshaft chain on the engine was pretty loose as I was tearing things down. I will replace that when the rest of the guides are done, but I was wondering if that was normal after sitting for ~6 weeks and allowing oil to drain out.

    Regarding powdercoating various components (paging JimLev), I will probably have both valve covers redone, and the engine "beauty" covers (coil pack covers) to match. I am unsure about the front timing cover; I'd want it to look pretty stock. Is there a powdercoating "bare aluminum" color? More research is required. I think I'm going to head over to "Electro Tech Powder Coating" and "Olympic Coatings" in Escondido, both of which are very near the shop, and see what they say.
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
    Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.

  6. #6
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    Before tearing into it more, can you get a micrometer and measure the rod journals to confirm the crank is actually worn at the number 3 position and by how much? It's not best practice to trust the plastiguage. Maybe it can be saved and reground on that one journal. What undersize bearings are available?
    98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    Before tearing into it more, can you get a micrometer and measure the rod journals to confirm the crank is actually worn at the number 3 position and by how much? It's not best practice to trust the plastiguage. Maybe it can be saved and reground on that one journal. What undersize bearings are available?
    It’s definitely worn. I can see the darkened groove where the bearing spun. I think it could be reground; and in fact I may re-grind it and sell it if that’s profitable. I already have the rod bearings for a stock crank, though, and they were WPC treated. About $550 or so. It would be expensive to buy new bearings and sell the old ones. BMW sells bearings at .25 and .5 under-ground if RealOEM is to be believed.

    - - - Updated - - -

    When the new bearings were torqued into place, there was enough play on the rod journal to slide back and forth longitudinally on the crank.

    I think it it may not be best practice to grind just one journal.
    Nate J.

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    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
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    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
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  8. #8
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    Nate's S62 Engine Refresh/Rebuild Thread

    On the broken piece of timing cover, I don’t know if welding is a great idea. I don’t know a lot about aluminum welding (sounds better than “I suck at aluminum welding”), but I do know welding right next to that sealing surface on cast aluminum could be tricky. Definitely a good chance to destroy the part if the wrong guy is doing it. Assuming the piece isn’t structural, brazing may be a better option.

    And the bit about being on your hands and knees, right where BMW wants you to be destroyed me. Hilarious!

    Edit: On the clear aluminum. Clear anodize is a thing. However if the anodize shop doesn’t clean their tanks real well, you end up with everything from tan to olive green. They can mask the sealing surface and the whole backside. I can send pics of the good and the bad tomorrow at work if you are interested


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    Last edited by douglawrence42; 04-01-2019 at 06:55 PM.
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  9. #9
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    A couple of points in no order.
    And I've been discredited already so use my info accordingly.
    Grinding one journal is fine. On most engines.

    Rod can shift sideways on journal as long as it's with spec. But it will have side play.

    Grinding the crank on a BMW is not like other engines. It has a nitride coating that has to be replaced, or the crank will wear out superfast. Nitride coating will require the crank to be straightened after the process and then the built up material is finished to size. Costs more than a crank, so that's out. Plus undersized bearings somehow don't materialize.

    Pulling the heads, nows the time. Do it right, do it once.
    Yes you can put a crank in without, but. .

    Balance it while it's apart.

    The valve stem seals are tricky. The valves do not rotate on an overhead cam engine with puck lifters. So unless the valves are held from turning whilst replacing seals, the valve to seat sealing can be lost. Do the heads.

    Replace the guides, d'oh more money!!

    But astonishingly, I'm advocating not replacing the rings or touching the bores if you had no oil consumption.

    Yes, while my big project awaits completion, I've been looking at adding an s62 car to the fleet, but all of the price point cars need all this right away.
    I'm curious what your friend with the shop is suggesting that you do?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by douglawrence42 View Post
    On the broken piece of timing cover, I don’t know if welding is a great idea. I don’t know a lot about aluminum welding (sounds better than “I suck at aluminum welding”), but I do know welding right next to that sealing surface on cast aluminum could be tricky. Definitely a good chance to destroy the part if the wrong guy is doing it. Assuming the piece isn’t structural, brazing may be a better option.

    And the bit about being on your hands and knees, right where BMW wants you to be destroyed me. Hilarious!

    Edit: On the clear aluminum. Clear anodize is a thing. However if the anodize shop doesn’t clean their tanks real well, you end up with everything from tan to olive green. They can mask the sealing surface and the whole backside. I can send pics of the good and the bad tomorrow at work if you are interested


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Good point on heat distortion. I will do some more research.

    Anodizing is different than powder coating, I believe?
    Last edited by computiNATEor; 04-01-2019 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Grr autocorrect.
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
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  11. #11
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    Yes, anodize is different. This link does a great job comparing to powder coat, and even has pics of the variation you can get for “clear” anodize. BTW, I’m not saying anodize is the right tool for the job, I just thought of it when you said you wanted to keep the bare aluminum look

    http://www.omwcorp.com/understanding...g-anodizing-2/

    If you have seen the AN type fittings, those are color anodized aluminum.


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  12. #12
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    Good info on anodizing Doug.
    Nate, you can also get powder coating done in a clear. I have some but haven't used it yet.

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    Wow !
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    That exact chunk of the lower timing cover was broken off on my M62TU, and like you I found the triangle shaped piece in the oil pan. I have no idea what caused it to break off in the first place but the engine has been running just fine without it.

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    Yeah must be a casting flaw. Another guy on the FB page said he’s seen it on several of the M62s/S62.
    Nate J.

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    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
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  16. #16
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    Progress. I’m only getting about 1 day a week to work on it right now because I’m still working full time and part time jobs. 2 full days next weekend.

    Both upper timing covers are off. I need to reach out to All German Auto and see if they have a machine shop in the area they like to use.

    Crankshaft should be arriving tomorrow or Tuesday. That will probably benefit from a light polish.

    Wagonsho, good tips, thank you.

    The Beisan systems Vanos guides have proven invaluable for disassembling the Vanos units. Those are complex little things.

    My spreadsheet of parts is quickly approaching the $3000 mark.

    2F92841B-CCFA-45EA-9F54-3D345DEBE253.jpg

    I threw the front suspension/subframe back in the car so the car can be shoved around. It may sit outside for a bit so I can free up some shop space for my buddy. He’s been extremely patient, and I owe him a couple nice dinners. The car sits with a few degrees of nose-up rake with no engine, transmission, or anything in the front end except frame rails.

    13B3D7D8-0729-41AE-9643-4D7DF670585C.jpg
    Last edited by computiNATEor; 04-14-2019 at 11:18 PM. Reason: Increased image size, removed redundant attachment.
    Nate J.

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    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
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  17. #17
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    Nice progress Nate. Keep the progress moving! Is choising the correct bearing sizes to fit the new crank easy to figure out? Color codes or something?
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    Nice progress Nate. Keep the progress moving! Is choising the correct bearing sizes to fit the new crank easy to figure out? Color codes or something?
    Something like that. The NewTIS instructions are a bit confusing.
    Nate J.

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    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
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    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
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  19. #19
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    01 M5 TiAg/M1SW
    Finally got my new-to-me crank today. I "inspected" the journals thoroughly with my middle finger. Looks great.

    Continued disassembly. Learned a lot about Vanos and how it works, learned how to remove S62 cylinder heads. There's a little spot that you can use to pry on the cylinder head gasket on the exhaust side of the head; nice. I didn't bother to remove the camshafts from the cylinder heads before pulling them off.

    Still debating whether or not the heads need to be refreshed. It only makes sense at this point I guess. I will have to look more into the diassembly/reassembly repair for this head and see if a normally equipped machine shop can do the job.

    The Harbor Freight concrete mixing tubs actually fit nicely underneath the HF 4-wheel engine stand (the only one you want for this engine) to (attempt to) catch most of the mess.

    Also, if anyone wants a 17x8 ET20 set of Style 71s (E39 hub bore @74.1), let me know. They don't fit over the M5's calipers, unfortunately.

    IMG_8850.jpg

    Pistons show some carbon, but nothing huge. It will certainly be good to clean them, though. The vertical line you see on cylinder 3 is, I think, harmless. I can't feel it at all. Probably just a oily spot.

    IMG_8121.jpg

    There are these teeny tiny spring thingies that I assume are some sort of oil control in the block. One side popped out, the other stayed in the block. I put it back in just so I know how it goes. More parts to add to the spreadsheet.

    IMG_6989.jpg
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
    Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    the great pacific n.w.
    Posts
    1,216
    My Cars
    540it, 540sedan, 540-6 s
    That oil check valve goes in the other way. Unless you have it sitting there to show it.
    Yes, that bore looks good from here. If that streak wipes off, it's just where the ring gap is.
    But heads are off, so you going to pull pistons?.
    Carbon clean up.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    North OC, CA
    Posts
    3,327
    My Cars
    01 M5 TiAg/M1SW
    Quote Originally Posted by wagons ho View Post
    That oil check valve goes in the other way. Unless you have it sitting there to show it.
    Yes, that bore looks good from here. If that streak wipes off, it's just where the ring gap is.
    But heads are off, so you going to pull pistons?.
    Carbon clean up.
    You are correct about the check valve, I realized that after studying bank 1. I took the photo before I studied the opposite side.

    I took the crank out and pushed all the pistons down onto the oil squirters to take a look at the bores. As far as I can tell, they all look pretty good.

    In no particular order (because my iPhone scrambles the order when sharing to my Mac for some reason). Click for larger.

    IMG_0193.jpgIMG_0283.jpg
    IMG_1384.jpgIMG_3097.jpg
    Last edited by computiNATEor; 04-21-2019 at 12:26 AM.
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
    Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    North OC, CA
    Posts
    3,327
    My Cars
    01 M5 TiAg/M1SW
    IMG_8667.jpgIMG_3932.jpg
    IMG_3900.jpgIMG_6692.jpg

    And finally, what it looks like without a crankshaft in the bottom. The "threaded protective bushes" in the main bearing caps are odd. The thrust "bearings" went flying when I removed the crank.

    IMG_8662.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    Do any of you guys have a good recommendation for injector cleaning? I see VAC Motorsports offers it for $180.
    Last edited by computiNATEor; 04-21-2019 at 12:30 AM.
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
    Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Bay Area, CA, US
    Posts
    112
    My Cars
    1998 BMW 540i/6
    Just catching up on this thread... wow what a cautionary tale. As well cared fore as your car obviously was, these cars can still just go ka-bluey at any time. Hats off to you for tackling the rebuild. Best of luck!

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    North OC, CA
    Posts
    3,327
    My Cars
    01 M5 TiAg/M1SW
    Quote Originally Posted by 98OrientBlue View Post
    Just catching up on this thread... wow what a cautionary tale. As well cared fore as your car obviously was, these cars can still just go ka-bluey at any time. Hats off to you for tackling the rebuild. Best of luck!
    It’s a high performance engine with tight tolerances and a history of weak rod bearings, unfortunately. It took Ford 15+ years to make an engine the same size with the same power.
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
    Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Lansdale, Pa
    Posts
    7,043
    My Cars
    98 540 6, SC'ed, 16psi
    Nice progress Nate. Not sure about those threaded bushes. Maybe an S62 expert will chime in.
    98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

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