I've tried searching but I can't quite find a similar problem to mine...
I've bought the above car today (M50 engine). I didn't realise when I bought it that the transmission programme error light is illuminated as the display is a little pixelated, but it is! Driving normally, the transmission seems to change up/down as normal but I've found that it will not kick down on the pedal and it changes up at around 3500rpm regardless of pedal position. It isn't stuck in one gear so doesn't appear (to me) to be in limp mode. It feels as though it is stuck in economy mode but the mode selector doesn't appear to be doing anything.
I have found in the service history a receipt for a replacement transmission in 2015 (part number 24001219955 from a 1994 520i). I was wondering if this gearbox would also have needed the ECU from the donor car and maybe it didn't get it, causing problems?
The battery and one of the battery leads was also replaced a couple of weeks ago, which I've read can also affect the transmission programme?
Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to start diagnosing the problem? Is there a way to read the fault codes without a specialist scan tool as it's too old to be OBDII?
Any help welcome!
trans program error is limp mode. It can be cause by simple things like low/dying battery (volts drop too low when starting the car), or even if the gear selector switch isn't working right.
You have a new battery, but maybe the neg/earth is bad? (E: or alternator is bad, or you have a parasitic draw so your new battery is running low already - before I fixed my parasitic draw 2 weeks was the time it took to run the battery down. Such a problem might be why you needed a new battery). Get the battery on a charger and then test drive the car. If problem persists it isn't low volts - but make sure your battery terminals, neg earth wiring, main fuse etc are also OK.
If it's not that, get the gear selector switch cleaned or replaced and hopefully your transmission is good.
E2: My gear selector switch was playing up due to dirt. The dash display stopped showing "D" for weeks but usually rocking the trans lever fixed it. One day rocking it didn't fix the dash display and it went into trans program error so I had to limp 15km home with the transmission acting weird like you are experiencing - it just won't shift normal while trans program fault is occuring. I took the switch out and cleaned with contact cleaner and the problem was fixed.
Last edited by fo3; 03-31-2019 at 04:26 AM.
Trans program is a protection system and does not automatically mean the trans is bad. As said above, even too low battery v can cause that or unconform feedback from ASC+T, ABS etc pp.
Installed is based on the p/n a ZF 5HP18 A5S 310Z, fits
motor type: M50B20 M52B20 M50 M52 206S1 206S2 206S3
fits model: 320i E36 Limo, Cabrio, Coupe , 520i E34 Limo, Touring
Yes, you can read fault codes, but needs special stuff for pre-OBDII. Probably you can get that in the U.K.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Thanks, any idea what I would need as it’s definitely pre OBDII? Whenever I search the suggestion seems to just be ‘get the codes read’ but I can’t see many places still having the equipment now.
I didn’t replace the battery, I found a receipt in the history for a new battery and battery lead about 3 weeks ago so I guess I should start there. Thanks I’ll post up how I get on.
Standard OBD1 home diag tool was peake research r5 fcx3 20 pin that plugs in the diag port in the engine bay. That company has closed so you may have to find one second hand or go to a good bmw mech that has one or even a dealer to get codes read. If you can find one buy one because there's no engine check light stomp test or other simple diagnostics available.
I sometimes wonder about my car like are the EG sensor, wheel speed sensors and ABS working? Who knows?
I also wonder how the peake research tool works for all old bmws as I know the e30 and e34 diag pins are completely different at least for the starter motor input - I got very familiar with having to jump my car via that pin while dealing with battery and trans program errors.
Last edited by fo3; 03-31-2019 at 07:13 AM.
The Peake tool does basically the same as the stomp test on US spec cars, but it is very limited. So basically all emission related stuff, but nothing for central chassis electronics, transmission etc.
The older the car = less possible fault codes, for example on my 11/88 E32 only these fault codes are possible for each side of the V12 banks
DME selftest
electric fuel pump relay/TR signal
EVAP control valve
airflow meter
lambda control
check engine lamp
fuel injectors cyl. 1,3,5 or 7,9,11
fuel injectors cyl. 2,4,6 or 8,10,12
oxy sensor heating relay
oxy sensor
control unit supply
idle CO potentiometer
intake air temp sensor
coolant temp sensor
ignition angle
torque converter clutch
unspecified DME output stage
It is o.k for a quick and easy check, but for a more detailed fault analysis one needs better equiment.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Put your VIN in realoem.com and it will tell you which part number you should have. It will probably come up with 956 instead of 955 because they list the replacement part number. It looks right to me. There is a plate on the driver's side of the transmission just above the sump line. Use a mirror to view it from the passenger side (the exhaust is in the way on the driver's side). Make a note of the long ZF part number which should be 1056000081 and the BMW part number will be shortened to 1219955 (or 1219956). If that is the case, there was no need to do anything with the transmission control model - it would be plug and play.
Revving to 3500 rpm is way too high. I would have thought 2000 - 2500 rpm is more than enough. The kickdown is just a switch to ground and it is under the throttle pedal. You can test that it is working with a simple multimeter
If the gears are changing correctly 1 to 5 and reverse, the car is not actually in limp mode and the gear symbol/trans program message may well be just a fault in the cluster. Confirm that when you move the shift lever, the dash confirms the gear you have selected and that when you operate the mode switch it does the same. It should default to E (economy) mode every time you switch on and the display will read ED when you select D. Sounds a little like it is stuck (or wired) to stay in S (sport) mode
You need an ADS module not OBD to read these cars. Maybe if you post your location in your profile, somebody close may be will able to help
I've just had a play with it after reading around on various forums. The display is pixellated but it's definitately displaying trans prog error once the car is started. With just the ignition on, you can make out the gear selector position and the mode selection. When it starts, this changes to a cog and is backlit orange.
Most posts I'm reading suggest it locks into 3rd or 4th when this error is displayed but I'm definitely getting 1-4. It feels normal under regular driving conditions, but it will change up at about 3200rpm in each gear when floored and won't kick down. It doesn't seem to go into 5th (or lockup, whichever it is) but revs beyond 3200rpm fine in 4th.
I've had the selector switch apart and cleaned the contacts but it made no difference. I also cleaned the mode selector switch. I did notice whilst doing that, that the selector itself doesn't lock into position, i.e you can select any gear position with the engine running or not, without pushing the button on the gear selector.
I checked the battery as I read that a voltage drop when starting can upset the system. The battery is 3 weeks old but is 56AH when the handbook recommends 65AH. I tried starting it with a jump pack attached in case it wasn't getting enough power with the 56AH but it made no difference and the car starts on the button with the smaller battery.
I need to read the codes really but trawling around to find somewhere with the kit to read a 1993 BMW gearbox ECU doesn't fill me with anticipation. I'm near Warrington (UK) if anyone knows of somewhere?
You have a Euro car so the only thing stopping you moving the shift lever is a bit of plastic rod filed to a point. Even when it is working properly, it is not difficult to overcome. If it is worn, it is an easy fix. But unless somebody has messed with it, you should not be able to start the car in anything other than P or N
The fact you can't get 5th is another indication that it may be stuck in sport mode - it is not supposed to in that mode. The car should default to EP or EN when you turn on the ignition. What does it actually display and have you tried starting it with the mode switch unplugged?
If you cant find anyone closer, I can read the codes.
Oldham to Warrington is a 45 minutes drive, and whiskychaser is a real expert.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Thanks again for the input guys, ok:
When the ignition is turned on, I can see that it's in E and it always goes back to this (with just the ignition on). I took some pics of the display in each setting but it's pointless posting them as the phone cam can't really pick it up with it being pixellated. Altering the setting puts it in S or winter mode and I can see the gear selector position on the other side.
As soon as it's started I lose the display and just get an exclamation mark inside a cog, backlit in orange (I think you'll just about make it out). It does this whether I start it set in E, S or winter:
40541644003_41d2d59735_b.jpg
I've just tried starting it with the selector unplugged and it's no different.
Whiskychaser -I'd certainly be up for a ride to Oldham and I don't mind giving you some beer tokens if you're able to read the codes.
The only other info that may be relevant is that the car has only done around 67k miles and it's done less than 1000 miles a year for around the last 4/5 years, so it's been sat around a lot.
Would this work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-INPA-Ed...-/264205759866
pic for archiving purposes because an ebay link will be useless for others in the future
Capture.PNG
If not, what do you use yourself? Does it need software or a PC serial port? I don't have anything with a serial port - the closest I have is an 11 yr old laptop that could use a PCMCIA card serial adapter maybe. E: But it doesn't run windows - too old and slow. I'd need something that can run in a linux distro.
Last edited by fo3; 03-31-2019 at 05:12 PM.
I have DIS on a virtual drive and use XP. The interface is connected to a real serial port on a Dell Latitude D810. Things may have changed but using a PCMIA card was not recommended when I built the interface. It came in kit form but is not available anymore. Maybe check out the Diagnostic Software forum Pretty sure that other interfaces are available.
You will need diagnostics but a couple of things come to mind:
TRANS FAIL-SAFE PROG that pops up when the engine is started is often caused by a shift-lock fault. On some models the shifter was stopped from moving away from Park by a solenoid - if this feature is enabled in the EGS, then as the ignition is switched to START it checks for a current draw by the solenoid, if there is no current detected then you will get a TRAN FAIL-SAFE PROG warning BUT the gearbox will behave as normal.
There is a bit more to this problem though - we have seen many cars that have never had a shift-lock solenoid fitted and still bungs up the error (which can be read by diagnostics) - the problem is that the EGS has corrupted its coding, decided it has a shift-lock solenoid and shows the error on start-up. The only cure is to replace the EGS!
A gearbox that does not change up into 5th can be caused by incorrect tyre pressures - or tyres of differing radius, especially across axles. The EGS then will operate in 'cornering' mode where gear changes are inhibited to stop instability caused by gear changes.
Another cause of this is gearbox temperature (or incorrectly reported gearbox temperature) - that has to be found with diagnostics. To reduce torque (and heat generation) by the gearbox the gears are held longer and 5th is disabled.
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
My Current 840ci Sport Individual
My Current 650ci Sport Individual
My E31 Repair and Information Website
My E38 Repair and Information Website
My E63/E64 Repair and Information Website
Chase - Heroes to a generation
Thought I should update this in case anyone else has the same symptoms.
Whiskychaser very very kindly scanned the Transmission Control Module for me. It's showing Code 40 Engine Intervention. He was also able to inform me that code 40 equates to pin 40 of the transmission control module, which is in turn connected to pin 14 of the engine control module, which supplies throttle position. This pointed to either the throttle position sensor or a wiring fault between pin 40 and pin 14. With some instructions on how to test the TPS, it did appear to be slightly out of spec, so I ordered a new one.
Unfortunately, after fitting it today, that hasn't solved the problem. I'm awaiting a new multimeter to investigate things further. Massive thanks again to whiskychaser for all of his help so far!
Just to update, this is finally fixed! After a lot of messing about, it transpired that the TCM was faulty. Swapping it for another with a matching part number has sorted it out.
I must say a massive thanks to whiskychaser who has been more than helpful and tolerant of my mithering, there's no way I would have gotten it sorted without his knowledge!
Bookmarks