His site has changed, but here is a service that states they can redo the brake bomb if it will hold pressure: http://www.audibombs.com/
I have never personally used them, but read about them somewhere.
CSi #18 - Car & Driver Magazine 1994 actual test car
-- Hellrot/Black-Gray (1 of 1 NA CSi color combination)
BMWCCA E31 Chapter International Clubs Liaison
North America Representative, 8er.or Board of Directors
If the bomb holds pressure then what is he redoing?
the accumulator (the bomb): It is a round steel chamber with a high-pressure nitrogen filled balloon built inside it. On a normal working system, as the pumps hydraulic pressure builds up it moves fluid into one side of this sphere displacing the balloon and storing pressure and a volume of fluid. Over time the ballon looses its nitrogen charge causing the sphere to lose its spring affect of storing the pressure energy. The simple test of the bomb is to run the car for a minute to allow the pressures to normalize then shut off the engine and then pump the brake pedal until all power assist is lost and the pedal becomes hard. Typically a good accumulator will give you about eight pumps of the brake pedal before you loose assist. A bad one will be hard after one pump and the accumulator needs to be replaced. The second part of the test is to check the DS regulator. Again run the motor briefly to build pressure then shut it off. Now wait five minutes before applying the brakes. ....
More here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...OEM-brake-bomb
And here someone in Germany installed a valve at the bottom of the original brake bomb and recharged it, pre-condition is of course that the 'bladder' inside is still intact https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30069861
In Europe there are plenty of these services which recharge, especially for the Citroen. DIY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8KaM9bpyu0
Even the diaphragms are sold and installed new, but the C. bombs are screwed versions https://www.franzose.de/en/Citroen-D...geln/ANR32137/
https://citroen-andre.com/new-diaphr...heres/?lang=nl
Citroen brake accumulator rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEUTyzbC1Wo
Last edited by shogun; 03-28-2019 at 10:05 AM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I bought one a couple of months ago as at that time there were only a couple of them for sale and I wanted to make sure it was a real deal. Then they started popping up all over the place at a lower price and I sent this one back since I didn't need it.
Here are pics of the one I received.
Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
That looks brand new production, 48/18 probably means produced in week 48 2018.
As for shipping from U.K. to USA you will probably have problems, dangerous goods, only surface shipping.
Unfortunately the older version brake bomb with 1 connector 34331162055 used up to 09/1990 is NLA and as per info on the German forum ATE scrapped their production machines for this. So on E32 750 we now use Febi brake bombs with an adapter
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I just had a new one installed last week at my Independent shop. They got it from http://www.worldpac.com
1994 850CSi, 2007 M5, 1990 VW Westy Syncro, 2010 e61 Touring Manual
I bought a new one in the US about a year ago. I think it may have been Corteco brand. Still working fine.
Gary
Gary Knox
'97 BMW 840 Ci
'03 MB SL55 AMG
'07 Mini Cooper S hatchback
'09 Aston Martin DB9 Volante
'13 Audi A8
'90 MB 560 SEC and '94 Porsche 928 GTS recently departed but long enjoyed
50 or so others over the past 70 years of driving
I got mine from eeuroparts few months ago. M73
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/323...r-34331162056/
If it out of the car, push a steel bar into the bomb, if it does not go in, then the bladder is o.k. Example pics from LAD bomb E32 rear, works the same way http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1261417/
For general function test
with engine off push the brake pedal with the same force like in emergency brake about 20 times to empty the brake bomb. Pentosin container will have more Pentosin then.
Push down the brake pedal slightly, start the engine, then the brake pedal must go down further. In case this does not happen, the flwg parts can be defective: power steering pump, the DS-regulator oder the hydraulic brake booster unit
---------------------------------
copied from an article by Paul Dzimian, BMW CCA TSA, Shop Forman ,Motorwerks BMW : Typically a good accumulator will give you about eight pumps of the brake pedal before you loose assist. A bad one will be hard after one pump and the accumulator needs to be replaced. The second part of the test is to check the DS regulator. Again run the motor briefly to build pressure then shut it off. Now wait five minutes before applying the brakes. You should have at least half the pumps with assist that you had when you did the test the first time. More here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...teering-system
----------------
E31 workshop manual mentions on page 34-33/1: function test
operate brake pedal 20 times with the engine stopped. Hold brake pedal down and start engine, system is o.k. if brake pedal gives. If brake pedal does not give, there could be a fault in the power steering pump, power flow regulator, hydraulic reservoir, or hydraulic brake booster.
Last edited by shogun; 02-24-2020 at 06:38 AM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Brilliant! Thank you
Looking for longer lifetime for your H31 hydraulic brake bomb and hydraulic seals? A tip from a German shopowner spezialized on E31/E32 cars , when someone asked for long time winter storage tips:
to protect the pressure accumulator and the hydraulic seals for longer service life: By pressing the brake 20 times when the engine is off, the 100 bar oil pressure is released from the pressure accumulator and all hydraulic components are relieved!
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I've got money riding on a backorder, quoted as 05/28/20 by a BMW dealer running an online biz.
It could be inferred from this that it is not NLA.
We'll see.
So does the guy referred to in the original post actually refills the e31 accumulators??
ask him, in the link is an email address, excerpt from his website for the Audi accumulators which look basically identical:
Welcome to my website. I made the site as a place for information on how to get your accumulator recharged. I do not advertise or promote this venture and don't much care if you want to use the service or not; this is not a money maker for me. I am here to support fellow enthusiasts of off-beat late 80s/early 90s cars! Lord knows we ain't quite right...
I will RECHARGE (not "rebuild") your accumulator. I do it when I have time. I understand that you may need your accumulator in short order and I will do my best to accommodate you.
I take your accumulator, locate the position for the valve, drill a pilot hole (this truly reveals if the diaphragm is good), drill and tap a 1/8" NPT hole, install a specialized high-pressure valve, charge the unit to ~1200psi, leak test the unit for 24 hours then ship it to you with a new o-ring! I used to get payment, send a recharged unit to you, you replace the unit then send me your old one. This worked ok when i was only recharging Audi units but I do not have extra cores for all the different accumulators I am now recharging. Now, I need you to send me your accumulator for recharging. The fee for the service is $75 plus USPS Priority Mail shipping charge of $13. $88 total. This is for all accumulators.
STEP 2 - CHECK your accumulator diaphragm
AUDI - There is no way for you to tell if the diaphragm is good that I know of. The way I check is to begin the recharging process by drilling a 1/8" guide hole in the unit. If the diaphragm is bad, you are S.O.L. I will not charge you a dime but I cannot recharge the unit. I may have a spare core that I can provide.
ROVER/VW/SAAB - See below for "Pre-Ship Diaphragm Test"
SAAB/VW pre-ship diaphragm test
remove the orifice - it just pulls out
turn the unit upside down
fill it with brake fluid
after your sure it has settled and is full (up to the weep hole in the threads)
dump out the fluid
if only a couple tablespoons come out - diaphragm should be good
if a couple ounces come out and it drains for a few seconds - diaphragm is bad
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
We've now seen.
The ETA quote on my order evaporated several weeks ago.
Today, dealer indicates no parts are on the horizon.
So my order was cancelled, by me.
***
Fyi, I did float a delivery contract for 50 pieces, price TBD, but this generated no response at the dealer level.
Probably not the right guys for that sorta thing.
I am still using my original ATE brake bomb. Read this thread on the E32 forum, your 1988 E32 750i still has the one with 1 connector https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ght=brake+bomb
in Germany and other countries they use the Febi 01817, this is the one for E32 735, E28 and it has to be modified to fit the E32 750. In post 44 I posted a picture what has to be modified. Also read post 43 where I posted a link to a French forum, pics are there with all the details.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
FCP EURO has them on stock now, BMW Brake Pressure Accumulator - BMW 34331162056 E32 750iL from 12/1990, 840Ci, 850Ci, ATE 340026, 10.0515-9002.3, that is the version with TWO connectors
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...56#description
For E32 750 before 12/1990 the brake bomb has only one connector, NLA, BMW 34331162055 , 10.0515-0516.3 ATE
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
FCP actually has them in stock. Out of fear, I order two (I have 2 E31s), expecting to get a follow up email stating they are actually not in stock. To my surprise, I just got an email that they shipped.
Yep, bought from them couple months ago.
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